Project: Fairlady Silvia - 1987 200sx SEv6...

[Wonderingraven]

Yeah, I think more of the resistance is using the oem and the pivot points kinda kinks the throttle cable that is causing a rough tap and hard to control the throttle.

the oem wraps a full S and it's tight before it touches the carb.

If I go back to doing a new Universal Throttle Cable provided by mr gasket, I can trim to fit.  Just when I do it while I am testing to fit or it becomes nearly impossible to fit if I remove stuff   as the cable tends to fray and become impossible to thread it back through.

[Wonderingraven]

On the good side is so far on this project is that it is still holding up strong so far.

I need to get more seat time but due to it being unregistered and no one to assist with my test driving around the neighborhood it just kinda sits and does donuts.

[Wonderingraven]

well so far so good on keeping it started with finances kinda stabling and I was able to find a cheaper insurance I will be re-registering my car this weekend.

[Wonderingraven]

Well it's just another start up video, soon I will register her and drive her again... until then enjoy


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE_X_jzpTX0

[Wonderingraven]

Being Agnostic,

I decided to head to the local church near by and *park* in the lot.

[S12_Lifer]

Glad to see you have her back on the road.  Time to get your other three S12's running.

[Wonderingraven]

Getting more seat time with her now, I got a bad exhaust leak that last time I Drove it around the area a few times made my head feel extremely light headed. Leak is happening at where the Y  pipe connects to the headers.

[Wonderingraven]

As an update somehow the Y pipe that connects to the exhaust manifolds seems to be warped so for a quick fix I went ahead and wrapped it with exhaust wrap and seems to be good so far.

[sideways_s12]

woot!

[Wonderingraven]

Been wanting to drive her more but have other house issues right now including unwanted drama.

Lately I have been more into switching motors completely going from the vg30s to the vg30det on a budget build and using the cedric intake y31.
More I am getting into the ca18det Robin build more I am wanting to do the change over so I am thinking maybe 2018?

[Wonderingraven]

Spent this weekend troubleshooting some more issues with this, overheating started to climb back as the high pressure kicked in full force and 85-90 outside somehow causing my car to over heat again.

At this point I removed the noisy mishimoto efans as suspected they are dying or just not pushing enough with the maxima efans, finally cleaned up the wiring for rewiring the efans setup.
, At idle it heats up and when I rev or drive it cools down some.

Suspecting an air pocket trapped.
So I heard some people say this is a great tool to have
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G

So I might just order one.

Mean time, here is an updated video.
https://youtu.be/H6npeAUCeNM

[S12_Lifer]

Motor sounds great!  Let me know if the Airlift Cooling System Checker works in case you decide to purchase.

[Wonderingraven]

Will do, Figured it will be easier to fill up other cars with it as I am getting closer with the Red s12 good way to test and fill the s12.

I got the Airlift 2 version that was a bit cheaper https://www.amazon.com/550500-AirLift-Economy-Cooling-Refiller/dp/B000IHK1VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489625339&sr=8-1&keywords=uview+airlift+2
Should be here tomorrow

[Wonderingraven]

the air lift works great, be sure to have newish hoses or they will crush them if they are old as it creates a huge vaccum at around 25psi and it will suck anything in quickly.

BUt that did not resolve my issue, the issue remains and this is the issue that started it all.

Last in my troubleshooting list is to delete the thermostat all together and see if that changes anything.

So far to recap,
New radiator Mishimoto,
3 water pumps all flow the same,
radiator flush
New VG33 heads,
Tested the cooling system psi
Tested the cooling system for exhaust fumes


Wideband installed to test for rich or lean conditions, efi and carb ran lean due to various issues over the year but it was due to the timing was set wrong, when I fixed to the correct timing, in EFI it ran extremely rich, and in carb I was able to tune it down to what it is today running decent and strong. idle and running at stoic conditions 14.7ish

I even ran some acid inside to clear up all the rust build up, that I thought worked but I guess in the winter time I didn't run it long enough.

So to this day, what would happen is I get inside I drive it around for a bit it would be ok, everything seems to be good then about an hour of driving around, hammering it hard at some places and this would take about and hour or 2 when idling it would just out of the blue gradually overheat. If I hit the top radiator hose with an IR it matches heat index on the guage. 235 F is about 2/3 of the way to H

More I let it idle, more it will over heat if I rev it up it would attempt to cool it down but after a few minutes of idle it will return to overheating slowly.
basically, it reverted back to the original problem when I first stopped and rebuild everything possible including new piston rings.

So as someone suggested, to try it with out a thermostat I am going to remove it and try it. If this doesn't work I will source out an vg33 replacement and slap the carb, cams, oil pan and pickup line (i think needs to be modified a tad) and toss it in. seems like I can pick them up for around 600 - 700 with 100k milage from a pathfinder.


-=[ Update ]=-

Here is a video of the latest overheating problem.

https://youtu.be/5PAcnZsJ91o

[Wonderingraven]

No thermostat and the engine is cools, Drove it around for 2 hours and it barely hit 1/3 of the way. 

[Wonderingraven]

So I have been tolerating an issue since driving around I don't recall the clutching acting strange. It feels like I have pressure, good pressure, but the problem is I can feel it with the pressure plate but it will not engage the clutch till I touch the floor and I don't recall that happening. When shifting from 1st to 2nd it would be extremely hard to shift, and to third would be a bit better but still it requires the foot to the ground with the high pressure already it makes it really tough.

so I am going to replace it with an OEM Exeddy, and remove the XTC ebay crap. 

[rednucleus]

Assume you still have the hydraulic slave set up?  Make sure it's bled properly and has good fluid level

[Wonderingraven]

yeah all is the same before I taken it apart, I don't remember the clutch acting this way and I can feel the pressure plate and such. When I get the new clutch I might flush and re-bleed.

[Wonderingraven]

looks like the issue was more of the slave cyl, but I have decided to place an order when I get a few more bucks saved to do a full VG33s build, imported vg33's pulled 60 - 80k mileage from some vegas jdm imports selling all day on CL for 700, if going that route I might actually just go exeddy oem clutch and fidenza flywheel.

I would rather do a full VG30DETT build, but the cost right now for the parts and customization would not be possible.  I would need to go J30 for the oil pan / pickup tube and z32 dett imported motor. with ecu, wiring harness, and transmission.  I would then have to go MS3 for a better engine management system and some other stuff like driveline custom made.  I was just thinking to piecing together the j30's vg30de and all things z32 on and in it. But that would still take to long to convert and money still being a factor right now.

So for now a vg33s setup, it would be easy. Pull the current motor which still having issues overheating and drop a vg33 one in, retain the round tooth but use the Schneider cams only thing I would be deleting is the intake for the carb setup.

[iceageg]

Keeping the VG33 round tooth timing gears requires using the VG33 crank unless you make a bushing to shim the internal diameter of the round tooth crank gear down to the VG30 crank diameter.  This is important to note because the VG33 crank requires you to use the VG33 oil pump which re-locates the oil filter and dictates which oil pickups and pans you can use.  Lots of options that dictate which associated parts must be used.