^^^ I remember reading through that. I however, am no fool. I know my way around a car. Moving on..
Thanks ben for the tips. I laughed my ass off when i saw the RTV/epoxy for subframe bushings. they do make noise, but the bigger noise is the exhaust. One thing. This one won't be sold. I'll be buried in it, lol. I should transfer the title.. (dont worry, its in a garage at the back of my yard.). The shocks/springs that are on it now aren't what im looking for, in terms of performance.
Spent a little time with the s12 today. wow. I still think the body work will be the most expensive part of this, largely due to the fact that i don't do well with bodywork, and can't weld for shit. I've got a partial list of what I need to do. here we go..
Exterior Bodywork
-Needs both front fenders
-Needs both exterior door handles
-Pass front window run channel (weatherstripping)
-Front bumper (may be able to get just the lower support and be ok)
-Both front marker lamps.
-LF inner fender liner
-Pass front window exterior trim (adhesive on it, ruined.)
-windshield
-rear quarters need patched. (rusted)
-Lf corner pulled.
-Lf mirror housing
-Painted.
Interior Stuff
-2 complete door panels preferred, but driver side is workable
-driver window switch(works, but have to press hard, maybe rebuildable)
-passenger side window switch. (gone)
-carpet (not necessary, but something to get)
-all dash vents.
-steering wheel w/horn.
-rr ¼ window handle
Front suspension/brakes/steering
-Tension rod bushings
-stabilizer links and bar bushings
-cm springs
-tokico illumina(280zx) strut inserts
-bump steer spacers (280zx)
-z31 front brake conversion (already have calipers, hubs en route)
Rear Suspension
-cm springs
-tokico illumina (z31) Shocks
-subframe bushings
-brake pads n’ rotors(stock for now)
-rear e-brake cables.
-diff carrier bushing
-drop fuel tank, find leak (can smell it)
Engine
-Determine cause of cyl 1 misfire.
-replace rotted vac lines
-clean/repair/remove electrical harness(s)
-convert electric fans from manual to temp activated
-remove remaining a/c components (evap can stay in dash, unless dash is removed)
-replace exhaust from y-pipe back. Ceramic coating for manifolds, y-pipe?
-oxygen sensor.
-install pcv breather catch can, or back to stock.
-maintenance (T-belt, fluids, etc)
-install PS belt, does it work?!
Transmission
-Why is 5th missing? (no engagement, but does grind)
-get rid of the clutch damper
-replace slave cylinder (just cause)
-evaluate clutch/flywheel when trans is out
-short/cut shifter. New knob.
This isn’t a complete list. I’ll say 90%. There’s still a few things I need to sort out. I think the rear hatch release cable is stretched as it won’t open without help. I need about 1000 screws, fasteners, and clips. So many are missing. I need to remove the stuff that’s attached to the interior plastics. (cup holder, fan switch, etc.) and have it repaired (I have someone lined up already, she does amazing work). So yeah. Off to the grindstone I go.
Once I get the misfire/rough run determined, I’m going to pull the front fenders, bumpers, remove the engine/trans, and get to work on the transmission. Hopefully is as simple as replacing a shift fork, or the synchros, and its game on. I expect to replace the clutch and reface the flywheel. From there, re-gasket the entire motor, pending no mechanical problems. Then off to the body shop for pulling, cutting, welding, and paint. (that’s gonna cost quite a bit). Then, do up the suspension, and hit the road. My goal, is late spring but mother nature plays a big role in that. depends when the thaw happens . Time and money are the holding points. Not to say I’m rich (cause I’m far from it), but time is more the factor that money, so I’m confident I can hit my mark if I can make the time.