I bought the car October 2006. I drove 4 hours to Hamilton, ON to get this car (so 8 in total), the 2nd one I can find for sale in 1 year watching the classified after I sold my 1st 200sx. The car was bone stock, original suspensions parts (bushings, shocks, spring), even it has the original warranty, owner manual, and salesman's card who sold the car. The 1st buyer was a lady and she paid 15k for the car back in 1985.
I haggle the price over countless emails with the owner, although I still feel I paid too much for the problem it had, but I wasn't about to make my 4 hour trip to see the car fruitless; so I paid the price. Pretty meticulous guy, he has all the service papers since he owned it (2001). It has been rust proofed yearly and uses synthetic oils (I use royal purple coz I do beat the car occasionally). It's been in his family since early 90s. Mainly it was his dad's summer car and this guy used it for winter because he's a "bike" person. He got a job in Australia so he's selling the car. I'm the 4th owner. It has about 85k km on the odometer when I transfer the title.
The only big problem was worn out clutch that hasn't been addressed for a while, resulting in worn out 2nd and 3rd gear synchros (Being mainly city car in stop and go traffic just make matter worse) and leaky valve cover Gasket. I changed the al lthe fluids, clutch, belts, water pump, distributor, plugs, plugs cables, valve cover gasket, adjust the valves and timing, and I think my alternator is new too. After inspection by Nissan, they find out that the turbo/manifold is leaky. So out I go hunting for parts.
Interior was perfect, but early this summer it starts to crack and then it cracks some more. Front seats feel saggy just because it's old. Now the vinyl near the windows is cracked badly.
- Pics when I got it:
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0002.jpg)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0003.jpg)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0007.jpg)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0006.jpg)
- 1st mechanical mod: Ractive tornado
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0578.jpg)
- 1st visual mods: S13 steering wheel, JDM plate, racing pedal cover, and Silverstar
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0575.jpg)
It survived harsh winter without block heater. I was surprised. I was worry about it all the time since it's an old car and it has no block heater. But other canadian members who lives in colder part of the country assured me it start just fine, although take awhile to get the tranny oil to an operateable condition.
- After an Ice storm:
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_0916.jpg)
- 2nd mechanical mod: dual MSD coils. Thanks to keith for the guide and write up
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_1151.jpg)
- 3rd visual mod: 5 star rota, bought from asparagus
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/000_0002_00.jpg)
- 2nd visual mod: wakaba sign, 4th visual mods: amber fog lights -> the cable is tucked in now.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/000_0008.jpg)
I join a local auto club, and came out to the event when ever I can. The car is holding it's own ground, pretty good for 20 years old turbo car with blown shocks. It run about the same time compare to a "build" S13 (KA-E, header, catback, sticky tires, coilover, strut bars, gutted), although the driver is about 100 lbs heavier than me and this car is faster than some of the not so good miata driver and celica.
Autox pics:
- 1st event
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/autox-09.jpg)
- 2nd one
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/merge5.jpg)
- 3rd one
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/P1060836.jpg)
I cleaned up the engine bay. I paid $10 for a swish bottle full of powerful solution that melts away 20+ years old grime and dirt. It called PM-23, pwerful alkali degreaser or something. It work wonderfully, I don't have to scrub or nothing. Spray it on the engine, wait 30 seconds, start the engine, have some one keeping it revved up at 2k, pressure wash the engine. It'll buck every now and then during the spray. If your engine in good condition, have faith. It'll go through it unharmed. After all the solution and grime is washed away, close the hood and let it idle for awhile to dry up things.
- 3rd mechanical mod: datsun 280zx short throw shifter (flipped bushings)and weighted titanium shift knob (more like titanium plated, coz it's a Ractive and I paid $20 new for it). It's hard to get used to the short throw, since it's harder to shift and closer to the driver seat. It does make the shifting sounds harsher.
-
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_1573.jpg)
Next mods is T25 turbo and full turbo-back exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler.
Sounds and looks like a decent ride.
Nice find mate. Hope you can fix the issues. The interior looks schmik!
Looks like the CA18et's got different seats to our's. They hold you in ok?
The car's looking great blitz! I'm really jealous of your interior
Quote from: gadget1382
Sounds and looks like a decent ride.
Nice find mate. Hope you can fix the issues. The interior looks schmik!
Looks like the CA18et's got different seats to our's. They hold you in ok?
seat sucks for autocross. you'll get toss around easily. not enough bolster and the bolster is old and saggy on mine, like an old virgin...hahahahahaha...lolol
keep looking at the psychedelic design and u'll get dizzy sooner or later.
Try popping in some used S13 seats. Worked wonders for me. In fact I sill got the 2 that I yanked from the salvage yard- Never know when I'll get another S12.
Oh yea- I liked the harsher shifting that the 280 shifter made. I also thought it is one of the best and cheapest mods (If you can find one that is!!!) for the budget MkI builder. To me it felt like I had more control and better feeling of the transmission that had the 2nd and 4th gear synchros almost GONE.
I like the 12th pic I was like damn there's alot of s12's there until I studied the pic a little longer
updated!!!
3 inch turbo back with flex pipe and Kakimoto muffler cut and custom welded (I don't even wanna know how much my bill gonna be). It sounds burbly, almost like neon SRT 4
CA-DET T25 turbo, turbo XS boost controller, and Autometer Carbon boost gauge is installed. Still waiting for time slot to weld in the DSM BOV. Boost is set at 8 psi with the boost controller at its lowest level.
I have some issue with the car "hesitate" on low throttle application on 2nd and 3rd gear below 3k rpm (for the lack of english term it feels like it's having micro bucking). It feels like the car "bog" down on and off real quick, like it's running rich/flooded randomly on and off real quick. Myabe some one can give me some light. WOT is awesome, quick spool and lots of power.
I have random metallic buzzing sound the come from the exhaust, like some bolt is loose or something. not a big deal this one.
Quote from: blitz
updated!!!
I have some issue with the car "hesitate" on low throttle application on 2nd and 3rd gear below 3k rpm (for the lack of english term it feels like it's having micro bucking). It feels like the car "bog" down on and off real quick, like it's running rich/flooded randomly on and off real quick. Myabe some one can give me some light. WOT is awesome, quick spool and lots of power.
this could probably be because your bov is venting to the atmosphere which creats ah rich condition wen you shift as it releases air that is already measured by the air flow meter
Quote from: tuhsty s-12
this could probably be because your bov is venting to the atmosphere which creats ah rich condition wen you shift as it releases air that is already measured by the air flow meter
I have no BOV. maybe boost leaks...
thats a nice s12 you got there. i wish i would of kept my s12 with the ca18et. there badass
Quote from: blitz
I have no BOV. maybe boost leaks...
yes that is a possibility orr maybe one of your sensors are going bad..does your car use the o2 sensor in the downpipe..if so...i'd check that one first
check your main ground on your engine.
also check that Timing belt
if your runing boost controller does it leak air or does it use a spring ball.
i had shit loads problems with my ca18et. i was running a ford probe/mazda 626 gt BOV..( those things suppose to leak) later i bought a SARD R2D2 that solved the stalling. also make sure your poppet valve is not leaking if not replaced with a plug.
what i can think of at this moment
Quote from: tuhsty s-12
yes that is a possibility orr maybe one of your sensors are going bad..does your car use the o2 sensor in the downpipe..if so...i'd check that one first
I have brand new O2 sensor
Quote from: falkhen
check your main ground on your engine.
also check that Timing belt
if your runing boost controller does it leak air or does it use a spring ball.
i had shit loads problems with my ca18et. i was running a ford probe/mazda 626 gt BOV..( those things suppose to leak) later i bought a SARD R2D2 that solved the stalling. also make sure your poppet valve is not leaking if not replaced with a plug.
what i can think of at this moment
I have XS turbo boost controller. it sets at the lowest level possible. I'll give it a turn slightly.
pop off valve was find, but I will check it. how do you know if it's leaking or not?
I will check the main ground and cleaned it up.
Pop off valve opens at like 8 or 9 psi (age may have weakened it tho) so if you are running up to 8 psi it may be opening, esp during spike. You remove it and plug the hole with a 1" npt plug at any hardware/home improvement store to see if that makes a difference.
If your problem is on lower RPM then I would say this isn't likely to be your problem but maybe its worth a check!
my car is officially retarded. it decided to "fix" itself up. all the problems I described earlier has been getting better each day since yesterday.
it still stumble when it's cold, but it's clear up within a minute of driving... I suspect dirty MAF. it has less than 60k miles so everything else should be in top notch condition. I haven't been able to find that CRC MAF cleaner locally (I'm able to go to 2 stores so far) or online shop that's willing to ship to canada.
Quote from: blitz
my car is officially retarded. it decided to "fix" itself up. all the problems I described earlier has been getting better each day since yesterday.
it still stumble when it's cold, but it's clear up within a minute of driving... I suspect dirty MAF. it has less than 60k miles so everything else should be in top notch condition. I haven't been able to find that CRC MAF cleaner locally (I'm able to go to 2 stores so far) or online shop that's willing to ship to canada.
could've just been some bad gas.
New PICS:
Custom weld 3 inch turbo back
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_2495.jpg)
looks stock, but doesn't sounds like one
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_2496.jpg)
There is a T25 somewhere down there. Turbo XS boost controller at 0 so it's 8 psi now. Zip tie rules!!
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_2494.jpg)
Vital sign measurement
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_2493.jpg)
JDM dorifto car feels (wire loom FTW!!!)...lol I still need to get another loom
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_2492.jpg)
Lookin great man! How's she drive compared to before?
Quote from: asparagus
Lookin great man! How's she drive compared to before?
it's getting better since yesterday! no more pesky mid acceleration hesitation/stumble. cold idle after the warm up mode is still affected somehow, but it's gone after a minute or two.
I have to feather the gas pedal for city driving if not it'll go into boost and it eats away my mileage. the turbo spools faster than my old T2 with the labyrinth exhaust.
well, that's the extend of my mechanical mods. I still have to install BOV and FMIC. all the welding is sourced out to local shop.
now it needs suspension...got SCC/CM springs and gonna go with tokico illuminas front and back. new stabilizer bars bushings and links (Z31 master kit), Addco rear sway bar, new MMR-direct TC rod bushing (bought from the forum) and planning on new tie rods. my pass side the boot is torn. I have BARTCO front struts brace and hopefully MMR-direct ships my rear bar soon (if not, I'll file a dispute and get one welded up). I have power brace from Draconis. prolly getting new racing seat next year.
Car is looking sweet man. I would have personally went with a magnaflow muffler for more of a sleeper look, but the Kakimoto muffler also looks good too though.
UPDATE!!!!
install 1G DSM BOV yesterday. again, the welding part is done at local shop.
I use some random honda radiator hose I found on the shop floor, and 1 inch to 1/2 inch ABS plumbing reducer. It fits the stock crankcase breather hole on the stock accordion intake pipe. It's ghetto, but sure it works
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/fotosaya/100_2517.jpg)
it seems like it's touching the manifold, but actually it's not, it's close tho, I'll be either making a heat shield or wraps the mani and charge pipe with heat wrap.
Looks nice. Getto fab w/various connectors +1! It looks like the welding shop you are taking your stuff to does a good job, the welds look nice.
thanks, I've been trying to keep it as cheap as possible
This blue thingy at the power steering fluid reservoir is a manual boost controller I believe?
you don't need recirculation.. sounds better w/out the return.
Quote from: Nitro
This blue thingy at the power steering fluid reservoir is a manual boost controller I believe?
yes it is
Quote from: Eddy
you don't need recirculation.. sounds better w/out the return.
umm yeah, I was worried about the venting metered air making the car acting up. I'm happy with it I'll just keep it as it is for now. I hardly hit boost in the winter.
Some cars act up some cars doesn't. Try it, doesn't really hurt. I've noticed with my car with the Super Sequential that after a hard run and I depress the clutch pedal to take the car out of gear the idle will drop down to 0-300 rpm and then stabilize at 800 rpm.
Update again. I replaced the hatch strut/support with a new cheap set from ebay. my old original one is completely gone, it won't hold the hatch at all in the winter.
I get whack in the head in the proccess...as soon as I took off one the ball studs, the hatch just drop down and whack me on the head. that stupid thing is feaking heavy! would guess it's around 50 lbs. I hate how the new hatch support squeaks when I open it up, but it beats worrying about when the hatch gonna fall on your head
still hasn't figured out about that vacuum leak and hesitation when the engine is cold. the engine has no power until it reach certain temperature or revved over 3k until that magic temp is reached...( oh, you feel it, it won't go no where); and it idle very low sometime and sounds like a muscle car with lumpy cam and I lost charge on the battery...my lights dimming, and the heater fan is slowing down. I have the keep it revved at around 1500 just to get things to function properly until it warmed up. then all the sudden everything is normal :S. bleh, it' all fine when it's warm. if the engine decided to blow up someday (very unlikely), I hope I have money to put CA18DET.
changed the RR caliper and ebrake cables on thursday. it's awesome, I'm loving how my ebrake works now. I paid a friend to do it in his garage on the hoist coz I don't feel like it and have some of the tools required (it's winter and tools are expensive). so yeah, 60 bucks and an hour later I got perfectly working ebrakes and saves a lot more money than if I had a shop did it for me.
at least I help him with installing and removing some tires and bleeding brakes on 2 other cars
Look for the air regulator, on the intake manifold, by the throttle body. Check this (http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=18340) out and see if its working, you've got the ca18, but the part is basically the same (if not identical). The other thing you should check is the coolant temp sensor, as your issue is heat dependent, and a poor connection/bad sensor can cause problems. There are two, one is for the gauge in the dash and the other for the EFI, the EFI unit has a standard two wire type bosch connector similar to the injector connectors. Check it out!
Quote from: blitz
still hasn't figured out about that vacuum leak and hesitation when the engine is cold. the engine has no power until it reach certain temperature or revved over 3k until that magic temp is reached...( oh, you feel it, it won't go no where); and it idle very low sometime and sounds like a muscle car with lumpy cam and I lost charge on the battery...my lights dimming, and the heater fan is slowing down. I have the keep it revved at around 1500 just to get things to function properly until it warmed up. then all the sudden everything is normal :S. bleh, it' all fine when it's warm. if the engine decided to blow up someday (very unlikely), I hope I have money to put CA18DET.
thanks, will look into those . I've been told my air regulator is fubared. but since all it does is control idle I didn't do anything about it...
you ride is coming along nicely have you replaced the pop-off valve yet if you should if your gonna wanna up the boost
Quote from: sideways_s12
you ride is coming along nicely have you replaced the pop-off valve yet if you should if your gonna wanna up the boost
thanks. I have a bunch of suspension parts waiting to be installed. maybe in the spring or something, as soon as snow season is gone.
I haven't replace the pop off valve. I think that bloody thing is leaking and maybe causing that weird vacuum leak I have when the engine is cold, I can see day light between the "lid" and the valve body. boost is set at 8 psi on T25 using the stock wastegate actuator. although I have turbo XS MBC, it is set at zero/lowest level. I won't go any higher before installing FMIC.
Quote from: blitz
changed the RR caliper and ebrake cables on thursday. it's awesome, I'm loving how my ebrake works now. I paid a friend to do it in his garage on the hoist coz I don't feel like it and have some of the tools required (it's winter and tools are expensive). so yeah, 60 bucks and an hour later I got perfectly working ebrakes and saves a lot more money than if I had a shop did it for me.
at least I help him with installing and removing some tires and bleeding brakes on 2 other cars
Any more info on this? What did you replace them with? New OEM parts or something off another Nissan? Or maybe aftermarket? My handbrake sucks and I'm curious how you fixed yours.
replace tha pov it's easy as shit 1" npt plug from home depot or lowes and that will probably get rid of that hesitation in the morning there only like 89 cents too
update: my car was involve in single vehicle slow speed parking lot accident. was at a friend's apt, and I"ve never been to her place. I drove over the parking divider. Instead of backing out I drove forward. climbed the concrete divider and landed on the mudflap.... my side skirt is fubared, and so is my kakimoto muffler. it's has caved in on the bottom... can't back out or move forward very slowly. so I just give it enough speed so the rear can climb forward...the rear landed on the muffler... good thing it's not my gas tank.
nothing else is broken just my ego...was feeling very stupid that night...
Quote from: blitz
update: my car was involve in single vehicle slow speed parking lot accident. was at a friend's apt, and I"ve never been to her place. I drove over the parking divider. Instead of backing out I drove forward. climbed the concrete divider and landed on the mudflap.... my side skirt is fubared, and so is my kakimoto muffler. it's has caved in on the bottom... can't back out or move forward very slowly. so I just give it enough speed so the rear can climb forward...the rear landed on the muffler... good thing it's not my gas tank.
nothing else is broken just my ego...was feeling very stupid that night...
aww that sucks dude, thats what happened to my z before i bought it. thats why it had a salvaged title but the guy i got it from was dui'ing so i guess thats what happens.
Quote from: silvia love
aww that sucks dude, thats what happened to my z before i bought it. thats why it had a salvaged title but the guy i got it from was dui'ing so i guess thats what happens.
I was as sober as can be. it just my brain did not function properly at that moment...
Quote from: blitz
I was as sober as can be. it just my brain did not function properly at that moment...
Been there bro. Mostly results in me just being disgusted at myself but april of last year it resulted in a head-on accident with a new mustang. I was VERY VERY lucky nobody got hurt.
Hopefully you can fix the damage to your car pretty easily. maybe just a new turbo sideskirt.
I replace my tail light lenses today withe a newer one I got from the classified here. no more cracked ugly and tired lenses. took me 1 hour to do it.
the car now smokes occasionally. when I just starting up from standing still when the engine is hot (red light), and after been driving a while when idling it'll smoke at random time. maybe the PCV need to be checked. or I think the turbo seal is fubared or the oil pressure at the turbo is too high and seeps pass the seal. I'm not buying used unknown turbo next time. well it's from needca (sean), so I believe it was good. If it's burn oil so what? It doesn't need to be smogged, just it's embarassing and stinky and harmful to the environment. but to offset the carbon emission, I will be using my mtb most of the time this summer .
suspension upgrade is getting closer boys! wait for it!
found the smoke problem. my turbo oil feed line is busted and dripping oil real good. it hit the exhaust and puff! it smoke away. I hope that's the problem anyway.
oil leaks is fixed. JB weld powah!!
I'll be watching your updates. very interesting so far. Do you take your ride to the 1/4 mile track at all?
What do you think your HP/TRQ would be at the moment?
I'll be starting the same updates as you in a couple of weeks. My new ride needs some TLC first. lol
fixed all the problems. new mod: NGK V-power BCPR7EY11 gapped to .9mm for better combustion under boost. awesome result. acceleration feels more solid.
get a compression test done. 1234: 170, 170, 175, 170. sea foam the engine, and it work wonderful. now. the oil is so clean, I'm having a hard time seeing it on the dip stick (oh, it's there for sure). it used to be black again by the 2nd week after oil change. how many 25 years old turbo sport car can say that it has perfect compression?
sad news: I"m getting out of the S12 world. the car most likely gonna be sold to one of the autocrosser in town. this car take too much money to keep up and to modified so it can be competitive with not that big of a result... it will be missed for sure
looking to get a sensible DD ie mazda 3 or if it's nissan it has to be the S13/S14
good job
your beautiful S12
did you sell it? that was such a nice car for how much?
DONE!!! SOLD to OSAD
Time to lock then