I picked this car up a couple days before Christmas last year, I wanted the car about 6 months prior to that and the owner told me 400 bucks.. and after those 6 months I finally low balled the guy down to an easy "Get it out of my yard, I am sick of looking at it".
I hopped on my trusty lawnmower and grabbed an air compressor, pumped up the tires and started to push this shit box home, and since then I haven't done to much with it. I have been procrastinating, and bitching to my Dad about my lack of skill to do anything with it trying to get him to show me how to do shit. (I am 18) So after 8 months of going back and forth between wanting it out of the yard, wanting to set it on fire etc... I finally got to where I just wanted to drive something hard, and something that I built enough to do something with it.
So the ghetto wiring that was in the car had to come out, big whoop destruction is the easy part. So I got all that shredded wiring out of the engine bay, oddly enough it was isolated to the engine harness minus the body grounds under the battery box and a fuseible link.
I put the re-assembly on hold while I installed the fuel pump, and waited to source a new harness (My dumbass didnt know that they sell pieces to repair this crap lol). Pulled the tank and it looked like axle grease in the bottom of it, so 2 hours of scrubbing it with brake clean did it some good. We dropped the "Slightly used" fuel pump in it and bolted it back to the car.
The following weekend I discovered a safe haven for old shit boxes that had seen better days... (Junkyard) and I found an Auto Mk 1.5 CA20 car the had a mint body. I ripped out engine harness so I would have some newish connectors and took it home. The next day I laid the two harnesses together and studied their differences (Alternator and oil pressure sending unit plugs) then I took the best condition connectors from each and made one good harness. Hooked all that crap back up.
(And now the coffee kicks in)
Now for teh moment of truth!!!1
It cranks, and cranks, and cranks. Wheres the fuel? Its at the rail, but its not spitting! I checked all my relays, the ecu harness and my grounds, well hell yes I have power. Its a bad ECU!
One week of looking and 36 hours of shipping later, and I hooked that bastard up.
Cranks, and cranks, and BOOM, and it dies.... (Hmm?)
Cranks, vrooooom, cranks cranks... Well damnit.
Then I couldnt get it to start anymore... Then I think "Oh shit, my dumbass just fried my new ecu...."
Heh, battery wasnt charged enough to flip on the EFI relays it had 10 volts coming out of it.
So I charged the battery and still had the above problem. O.o
FINALLY my Dad just somthing out for me.... 10 seconds of playing with it by fidgeting with the key (screwdriver)
"Your switch is bad. I will pick you one up tomorrow"
This was last Wednesday. So on Friday I brought the new switch and the old one with me to work, along with my wiring tools and made a good switch.
I get home, and grab the radiator that I took out for the POS SE that I looked at in Raleigh that "Only needed a radiator..." Asshole.... o.o, anyway, I grab the radiator and my duct tape.... I pull the old radiator hoses that I had to cut off from antique antifreeze sticking it to the rad. and I tape up the old hoses and grab my hose clamps.
Hook the hoses back up bolt that bastard back down and fill it up.
Hook my oversized battery up and light that biatch up. It would start and "bog out", so on a really good guess I unplugged the air flow meter, and it spun 90 degrees and fired up (and stayed running)
WOW THIS THINGS BLOWING OUT ALOT OF SHIT!
Its idling like a tractor O.O, I let it warm up and I rev all the bullshit out of it, and let the old fluids and hand grease burn of the manifold. ( I thought that it caught on fire at first lol)
I finally move it the first time... (Wow this thing is weak, I am easing off the clutch at 3k trying to get it to move and NOTHING).. .heh damn ebrake.... so I back it out of its dead grass parking lot and go to move it to the front yard.... As I get closer to my supra and I am rolling towards it with my foot on the brake.. its only getting faster.... OH SHIT! I stop about a foot from it with the ebrake but that was to close for me... I back it up a bit so I can move the supra and the bastard dies.... "WHAT NOW!" It sits a bit while I check fuses pop the hood and look for something obviously disconnected. Nothing... O.o what the hell I jump back in it. Starts back up I pull it around to the front yard for so I can clean it a little bit easier. I pull some old shit out of it (Seat covers, random gardening tools, severed human head in a glad bag etc...)
I grab the AFM and I spray it down with some contact cleaner, and then blow it around with an air hose.
Wrap all the cracked intake hoses with duct tape where needed and clamp the shit out of them and hook it up. Heh starts right up, maybe I just needed the hoses plugged up for the AFM to work? Yes, I am a genius....
After a failed bleeding attempt (I need a new master cylinder, and I will replace the calipers up front and the wheel cylinders in the back... ) I tightened up my ebrake, that should be good enough...
So I gave in to temptation and with my nephew in the passenger seat (17) and my hazards on we go for a spin. I am out in the middle of no where so its not really a big deal, It drives good through the all the gears, I didnt romp on it because I didnt know how much abuse this engine has taken, but I drove it about a mile and a half. About 40 (fast as I went) the front start to shake (Warped rotors or wheel balancing)
This brings me to yesterday, here are some pictures. I wish I had pictures of the tank before and after... lol
(Sorry for the run on sentences IDGRA about grammar at the moment)
I am happy with my 80 horsepower shitbox.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02323.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02322.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02321.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02320.jpg)
No knocking my white trash engineering! It works! lol (No the car isnt stolen its a long story about the switch and the locks)
It works doesn't it? High five!
How are your injectors? I had to replace all 4 of mine to feel safe driving it down the road.
Injectors are good, I am going to flush the motor with some seafoam this weekend and promptly change the oil and all of my belts and hoses. I am going to try to source a KADE as quickly as possible and get everything prepped for WHEN the CA20 blows up.
If you want a KA you should be on carolinanssans.com
Someone is selling a SOHC for $50.00 right now.
The second clamp on the radiator looks haggard, but there is like 1/4" (6mm) of tape all around. Its not as thrown together as it looks. I very carefully lined up the tear that was through the hose and clamped it down with hemostats and then wrapped it. That clamp is on there with prolly 50 lbs of force lol
Did they just post it cuz I searched today. Is it a full swap?
Man.... If you think that's bad, you should see what we've typically got up here.
With a little bit of time, that will be a good looking car. Your engine compartment is pretty clean. No rust. I'm going to go cry in a corner now lol.
When I get some time, I will package up some pics for you to go thoroughly over your vacuum lines and make sure all are connected and in the right places (as far as my research has shown, anyhow lol).
should install a ghetto cold air intake to bump that engine up to 90hp lol
I've heard bad things about seafoam. On cars as old as ours I won't recommend it
Does it eat seals? That would be the only thing I would worry about anyways. I think people put to much in it. I am going to use have the recommended in the oil but the normal amount in the fuel tank run it hard for 2 minutes, let it cool and change the oil. Once the all that crap has been ran out of the tank I will change the oil again.
I am trying to figure out a cold air setup that doesnt get in the way of anything. I am thinking of mounting one on the cross brace and just "making it work" because there would be enough room to mount or make some brackets for the AFM and it wouldnt get int the way of a fan.
I got my raise.
Shit box drifter ftw.
Good luck on the KA Swap, no one has a running MK1 KA IIRC
Nice Notch tho!
Thank you. I finally talked my Dad into letting me beat the shit out of it. Its a 24 year old car with 213,000 on it. It has no idea what kind of hell is coming to it... when I can stop...
For the CAI, throw the battery in the back.
Shit box drifters unite!
Quote from: DeathAndMajesty
Does it eat seals? That would be the only thing I would worry about anyways. I think people put to much in it. I am going to use have the recommended in the oil but the normal amount in the fuel tank run it hard for 2 minutes, let it cool and change the oil. Once the all that crap has been ran out of the tank I will change the oil again.
I am trying to figure out a cold air setup that doesnt get in the way of anything. I am thinking of mounting one on the cross brace and just "making it work" because there would be enough room to mount or make some brackets for the AFM and it wouldnt get int the way of a fan.
those carbon deposits help the old seals doing its job. it doesn't hurt your engine anyway. if you wanna get rid of the carbon, run/drive the car at red line for couple of min.
Project update:
Believe it or not... I have driven it 10 miles now in my neighborhood with no brakes, and the radiator hose hasnt leaked a drop! (Has been below freezing and completely heated more than 10 times...)
Shes been on hold a bit (Xmas + GF = broke mofo)
Its now running on 4 Cylinders... ( Thought it sounded like shit... lol)
Interior is a little nicer...
It has been degreased and decobwebbed... (Trust me it was a chore.)
Stuff I am getting on my Xmas break:
Master Cylinder
Spark Plugs / Wires
Wheel Cylinders
Brake Calipers
Mass Airflow Sensor / Harness
Vaccum Hoses need some attention....
2 Sets of $15 tires....
Fresh rolls of duct tape....
This POS CA20 isnt really that much of a POS.... 213k and its still pretty decent.... No power... but IDC. I love this car.
S12s rock the house! Once that thing is all cleaned up and finished, built to your liking, you'll be amazed at how far you've come. 'Rolls of duct tape' lol!
Wow. That's what my 2nd car looked like when I bought it, only better. I love the MKI notches. It was my first car after I got my license back. After that one got hurt pretty bad I got the second one, I find them very comforting. Mine didn't have the stripes in the interior. At that kinda milage it's just plain worn-out and needs rings, bearings and, Knureld. Keep oil in it it'll never die though. Pollute like hell, but run for ever most likely.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02338.jpg)
She idles at 700 RPM now. (Was 2000 RPM)
Stops great after new master cylinder (30 bucks with a core charge at napa)
I rehosed the majority. I love criticism so feel free to comment. I still need:
New tires
Fresh Pads, and Shoes
Plugs & Wires
Oxygen Sensor
Shocks
Then I can tag it and insure it for daily use.
Soon after:
Electric Fan
CM Springs
Tokico Shocks
Roll Bar
Cheap Premium Sound System
MSD Ignition
New Fuel Tank
New Fuel Pump (Damn gauge isn't working)
New Calipers
New Wheel Cylinders
New wheel bearings
Gasket set
Oil Cooler
OEM Paint with black metallic flake.
Would an intake and custom exhaust manifold be worth a damn on the CA20?
Looks like its gettin there. That's an AC line across the top of the motor? There's no fan in it now? When your ready for a roll bar. You mean roll bar not sway bar? Get it custom made, Dont piss around with this. Get a good main hoop custom made. Real tight to the roof and body. No one sells one that fits nice, that I know of.
duct tape isnt very jdm! lol
I dont give a fuck about JDM.
Yea that A/C line was laid over like that since I had the car. It desperately needs everything to be tucked properly I am just trying get it functional,
There is currently no fan but it only gets warm if I abuse it at low speeds.
Dont make fun of my ricy yellow 3/8 hoses. There was no black at lowes
My roll bar will be custom. If I am going to drive stupid I want security, and I also want a trustable mount for a harness when the time comes.
Oh and... Still no duct tape radiator hose leakage... lol
I'm not making fun of your yellow hoses. I got some clear ones. But I had one on the Brake booster. The other half where yours is still black. And the vaccume caused the hose to collapse. I don't know if thats a problem for you or not. I couldn't pass inspection cause mine was like that. But I don't know why. If the hose is collapsed than there's obviously vacuume in there, Right.
Looks pretty good. I got a real hose and wiring mess in mine. But it works.
I don't know about the exhaust cause I don't have a dyno in the area. My freind is home for the holidays from CA. Were talking about. Filmin some CA20 posi burnouts.
All of my vacuum hoses are 1/4" thick so I dont think they will be collapsing. All that replacement hose was $15
9' 3/16" I.D.
3' 1/4" I.D
5' 3/8" I.D Yellow (High pressure spray hose)
4' 5/8 I.D Heater Hose
I see. I hear ya on th safty of a cage too.
I officially <3 this car.
Stayed out 3 hours in hard rain for this shitbox last night.
New Air Filter
New oil filter (Had to take the alternator off to get to it....)
Pennzoil High mileage 10W 40
New Fuel Filter (Shit was BLACK and smelled so rancid)
Got it all done and ran over my ramp lol Didnt hurt anything since its on a gravel driveway but scared the shit out of me.
She is so much quieter with an air filter.
Also a side note.... With blown shocks and floppy springs. This little bastard can hold its own. Had some fun with a little boon docks 30 MPH touge. Even without both wheels spinning it was easy to keep sideways. The CA20 isn't as bad as its hyped to be. I have definetly driven worse.
Did you replace that rad hose? If not do it as the duct tape will fail on a rad hose at the worst time and she'll blow, bye bye h/gasket.
Still havent. I check it every time I play with her. I am getting one in 2 days, now I have to try to get the fuckin a/c-heater fan working
Door locks now installed. Now I can lock my car!
Quote from: DeathAndMajesty
Door locks now installed. Now I can lock my car!
You replaced the actual locks..
I still need to replace mine.. I was like fuck it, put a power door lock kit and an alarm in mine..
Nice work on the notch! I wish I had money to fix mine up..
I have put like $350 or so total just getting it running. If you include the price I paid for the car, its not bad at all... lol
Its going to be a circle jerk to get it tagged, I have to get an indemnity bond to get a title if a family friend cant pimp me one.
Relocated the ignition switch to the center console.
Fabricated a cool plate to mount it where the busted ass radio used to be. I will use this plate for the new home of a cooler mounted Oil Temp Gauge (Autometer digiital), Electric fan switch, and fuel pump switch.
I will leaver room for a radio....
I will post some pics when I finish it tonight.
Projecto-de-la update!
-New Plugs,
( Do NOT buy duralast, I had to mod 3 wires to fit, its easy but they should be snap on out of the box)
-New Pads
-New Shoes,
-Replaced Oxygen sensor
Also picked up a 64 piece GearWrench, GearRatchet set. Only complaint is the short extension.
I am picking up a flex head wrench, and extension set for it.
Pass through sockets are extremely convenient at times..
Relocated Ignition switch, made an awesome ricey plate to mount it to.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02370.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02376.jpg)
Sweet setup. Yeah Duralast kinda sucks nuts but whatever.
This weekends to do list:
-Remove stock A/C, heater components
-Replace with lightweight electric heater
-Replace rear wheel stud
-Pick up 280zx wheels from Sean1978
-PWN under body surface rust and thoroughly clean the car.
-Name the car
-Tear up old tires
-Finish 2nd run through prestige in Call of Duty 4
My friend came through with the title. So circle jerk with the tag office avoided.
*moved to c-s12 garage*
Quote from: DeathAndMajesty
This weekends to do list:
-Remove stock A/C, heater components
-Replace with lightweight electric heater
-Replace rear wheel stud
-Pick up 280zx wheels from Sean1978
-PWN under body surface rust and thoroughly clean the car.
-Name the car
-Tear up old tires
-Finish 2nd run through prestige in Call of Duty 4
My friend came through with the title. So circle jerk with the tag office avoided.
where did u get ur lightweight electric heater?
JC Whitney
I finally got around to removing A/C + Heater components..
The blower motor had apparently set on fire some time ago. Over half of it was melted, some of the wiring around it was also melted. It should be REALLY fun repairing all of the wiring.
Kinda odd the car didnt burn, and there is no smoke damage O.o
How do you get the heater core out? I couldnt see more than the 2 bolts that mount it, one behind the gas pedal, and on under the blower intake.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02412.jpg)
Sweet. Now you need to join Carolinanissans.com and post a pic in the forum gallery.
So here is my set in stone plan for the look I want in the end.
-Se lip kit
-Metallic black and red two tone.
-20% Tint for back and side windows.
-Low and functional stance.
-Hayashi Streets, Impul Hoshinos or another disc type old school wheel.
Since Hayashi streets are being remanufactured I really want a set.....
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/c0603034.jpg)
I am done with making impossible, or out of reach plans for this car. I just want to restore it and kick the suspension performance up as much as I can. Maybe one day a built KA swap.
Quote from: DeathAndMajesty
Since Hayashi streets are being remanufactured I really want a set.....
Damn those are sick dude. How much do they cost for a set?
Ugh, a little over 2000 a set.
Wow FUCK THAT!
Quote from: asparagus
Ugh, a little over 2000 a set.
You dont like streets??!
But yep 2k per set. I think it is completely worth it. Same price for tailored wantanabes...
Admit it, streets would look bad ass on a clean coupe. Specifically a red coupe. Red and chrome are like peas and carrots.
Do it!!!!
I think it would need ZG flares and a nice offset to look good. Only the CR series would look good anyway.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/lancerer/corolla/fac3ed71.jpg)
Quote from: DeathAndMajesty
Admit it, streets would look bad ass on a clean coupe. Specifically a red coupe. Red and chrome are like peas and carrots.
oh they'll look tight no doubt. if it was me i'd be putting those wheel boots that the parking people use when you owe tickets in them every time i stop somewhere lol..
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2388/2227769278_687afa920e.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2039/2224241285_08d3562399.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2198/2225215518_df56873e1c.jpg)
I really really like these lol
Quote from: Abunai S-12 Drifter
oh they'll look tight no doubt. if it was me i'd be putting those wheel boots that the parking people use when you owe tickets in them every time i stop somewhere lol..
I live in the middle of nowhere in a hick type town. So anyone that would want these is pretty far away. At events and such, where people would actually want to steal wheels, I will be with the car.
QuoteAt events and such, where people would actually want to steal wheels, I will be with the car.
People around here are usually pretty cool about stuff like that. Someone would have to have some major balls to try to steal wheels at an event.
wow i like them more & more now.
their sick!
Just an update. Those 280zx wheels are only 13.6 lbs a piece! Watanabe in the same size is only 2lbs a piece lighter.
hell yeah man,that is a nice come up.i like those notches a lotfor a free ride that thing is damn clean.
Quote from: DeathAndMajesty
Just an update. Those 280zx wheels are only 13.6 lbs a piece! Watanabe in the same size is only 2lbs a piece lighter.
Which 280ZX wheels?
This?
(http://www.311s.org/tech/wheels/pics/swastika.jpg)
Or this?
(http://www.311s.org/tech/wheels/pics/280zx.jpg)
Or maybe this?
(http://www.311s.org/tech/wheels/pics/ironcross.jpg)
Here you go, four-luggers.... lots of different wheel specs:
http://www.311s.org/tech/wheels/wheelsfaq.html (http://www.311s.org/tech/wheels/wheelsfaq.html)
I thought those Streets looked nice, until I saw them with tires. All the pics you have but one show tight-pulled tires. I want to see one with a normal tire width, but I still don't think I will like it. And for 2K?
So far, FTL
LOL @ "tight-pulled tires"
QuoteWhich 280ZX wheels?
I sold him #2 with tires:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02401.jpg)
Quote from: nismologist
hell yeah man,that is a nice come up.i like those notches a lot for a free ride that thing is damn clean.
Thanks, I have learned alot on this car, and I am spending to much money on this car. Its getting to be an addiction
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02401.jpg)
Look at the blue headed hammer at the bottom right.
If you ever need a malet (So you dont scar whatever it is that your hitting.), and only have a regular hammer. Wrap the head of the hammer in electrical tape... Works niceley and comes off easy when your done lol
I finished the steering rack installation. It took me 8 hours to do it from start to finish. I cleaned the hell out of all the grease on the cross member, engine and tranny under the car.
Tie rods are a bitch. I had to hit them with blaster and beat the shit out of them with a hammer.
The passenger side tie rod I finally gave in and heated it up with a propane torch to get it out. I beat on that bastard for 30 minutes straight and it wasnt moving.
The biggest obstacle I had swapping the rack out was the power steering lines, they are to stout for me to man handle into the rack and get it threaded so I will have to go back and try it again. On a positive note my new rack came with new tie rods and bushings. So it is azn tight.
** There was 5 lbs of grease and dirt on the cross member. (1 inch thick caked around)
Yea, that is a load of work. Add more effort if you are in the rustbelt states like I am. I don't even fuck around, I torch damn near EVERYTHING before trying to remove it, if its underneath the car.
Congrats on your work thus far, that is one hella sharp looking car. Its good to see someone take something abandoned, that they know not much about, and come along as you have. Its only the beginning, too, right?
Ok, so this week begins the major visual upgrades.
Mounting the SE kit
Painting the car
---------------------------------
I found the easiest paint for a newbie like me to shoot.
Mo' fuckin tractor paint
Requires NO primer.
Its cow shit, acid, misc farm chemicals resistant.
Premixed UV protectants
Rust preventive
and dirtttttttttt cheap. (28 bucks a gallon at the local tractor supply!)
With the harvest international color (Close enough to blood red), I will be adding a flattener and just a bit of black flake.
The paint can be applied to bare metal, or old paint. The surface just needs to be extremely clean of course, and it needs to be scuffed for it to stick good.
(http://www.steamengine.com.au/events/reports/heyfield-vic-2003/trucks-and-tractors/pics/1948-international-harvester-kbs6.jpg)
(http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/2374469-100_1418(Large).JPG)
Lol. I worked at a farm/mass discount store for years, and shot more than once with that paint. I'll tell ya tho, it fades quite quickly. Mid red to pink ~1-1.5yr. Clearcoating may help tho, never had tried that. You can always scuff it and shoot it different later tho!
Did you check out Silvia Loves thread? He regular rattle-canned it, and it looks beautiful. Its all about the prep work b/n layers, and the finish prep. Thats probably what I'm going to do.
Keep us updated, with pics too!
If you save up a bit of money (about $800.00) my buddy dave can probably give you a real paint job (the original color) He can do a decent single stage paint job cheaper.
Ok so I couldnt get everything knocked out that I wanted to this weekend because of some heavy rain.
I undercoated the wheel wells and started on my paint, and finally got the bumper mounted up but I need to finish the zip ties, and put my grill back in.
Dont talk shit about the stitches in my bumper. ITS CHEAPER THAN A BUMPER.
The paint is John Deere Blitz Black. 5 coats of it, It would be completely two tone, but your not supposed to paint in the rain lol
The reason it looks stripy is I just got done painting the middle.
Looks flat now
I will be fixing the gap between the the bumper and the center piece with some thin rubber riveted down.
After I pulled the bumper I could see how badly the bumper support was bent from whatever the previous owner hit.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02478.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02480.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02479.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02475.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02476.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02332.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/DeathAndMajesty/DSC02334.jpg)
Damn dude, looks nice, coming along well. Waaaaay better than before. Did you just get those rims or were they on there?
Sweet. Came out decently
Engine runs on its own now. I need to re vacuum every single line. All that is hooked up right now is idle air and the intake piping, everything else is just blocked off, so obviously it runs as good as a hooker in heels.
I have a totally awesome front oil seal leak (On the crank/oil pump), is this a bitch to do? I imagine it wont be to bad.
Tonight, everything should be vacuumed right, and tomorrow it should be timed. I cleaned the hell out of the engine, so this leak might have been there all along, and all of the surrounding grease was keeping it plugged
did you scrape the cracks on your front bumper or just paint over it? my new salvage/project car has similar problems and yours turned out looking nice...
I used a grinder with a scratchy pad type deal. Just be really easy and it turns out good.
-------------------------------
NEW UPDATE!
-----------------------------
1QA springs are here... and with them.. comes the "low sauce" I needed so badly.
!!!! PAINT IS DIRTY AND UNFINISHED !!!
>.< Bad week.
Plus I killed my clutch today.. I have to find a way to anti sag my lip before I drive it, I am still thinking adjustable splitter. The lip scrapes on almost every little bump. I am thinking of raising it an inch. It just feels un stable (Then again I do have blown shocks).
Bleh, more delays.
i wonder how well that tractor paint will buff out? i wish u were closer to me cause i'd try buffing some out for ya.
It buffs to a semi gloss finish.
The black has held up freakin awesomely. Made it through alot of bird poop and elbow grease with no fade.
It stays smooth and doesnt rip or peal. Sticks very nicely for what it is. Its A+ for a beater paint job in my opinion.
Finished the paint. It looks like ass , mainly because I was ready to drive it and out of money for painting supplies. The important thing is that it looks better than it did and its weather proofed.
So I got the car bonded and insured, and friday I get the car theft inspected, and titled.
I drifted a bit this weekend in my neighborhood* on some extremely low traffic roads.
The 50/50 spring rates feel great, and even with completely blown front shocks the car handles decently.
I have no ebrake so I cant do anything but clutch dumping and weight transfers. Which I prefer over the ebrake anyway. There is NO SUCH THING as a CA20 power over lol
The CA20 is slower than a 1990 jetta with 4 mexicans in it. (That was with crappy gas in it though, so who knows.) lol
The Ca20 will chirp the tires through third. (I was surprised).
Stop signs are not cones, they do not "kill" easily.
I love this car.
This car isn't too difficult to drift without power steering.
Car update.
New ball joints.
300zx Sensatracs (Handle 300lb springs very well)
Now I have a full blown ghetto front setup. Its nice and cheap as fuck.
Fixed bump steer issue by playing with different stabilizer bar heights.
Car update:
Dead raccoon > Front lip
Car absolutely kills on the twisties.
Have a set plan for the car now, it will be street legal but I want this piece of shit to be at its full potential.
I will be gutting absolutely everything. Just a driver seat, a cage, and instrument cluster.
Cammed and built N/A KA
Welded differential
Remove all non structural sheet metal.
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I will start all this when I have another daily.
I am deciding between these.
(http://www.p914.com/p914-resources/p914-paint/p914-paint-1971-6-1510-01.jpg)
(http://www.jasonsiu.net/shoots/miata.jpg)
(http://multimedia.wheels.ca/images/13/a7/0ef010384611b3e9944c2f8e1e6e.jpeg)
I am leaning towards the miata, for accessibility and cheapness of suspension goodies.
Subaru is second.
914 with a scooby swap is the more expensive, but way more awesome option.
Nice, so you're looking to build the exact same thing I am!
MIATA all the way man. Don't look back!