Club-S12.org
S12 Media & Build Projects => Build Projects => Topic started by: David B on 08:43:37 AM / 28-May-08
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CHANGED THREAD MOVED******************************************
NOW A BUILD THREAD FOR THE BLUE S12
not todays adventure lol
ello ello ello people,
i am headed to North carolina to meet up with jaidseye to purchase his 1984 nissan 200sx
here are some pics he gave me,
more pics to come when i get the car
(http://i27.tinypic.com/zuqtmg.jpg)
(http://i30.tinypic.com/2eq9eue.jpg)
car $450
gas money for freinds truck $115+
excitement of having another S12
priceless
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You might want to disconnect the drive shaft. I know its not an auto, but I still have heard some rough stories.
Sounds like a really fun trip.
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when do you plan on getting in to town to pick up the car?
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Definitely disconnect the driveshaft, its four easy bolts, should be 12mm wrench for the center bolts and 14mm wrench for the bolts at the differential, and if its not a manual then you'll need a long screwdriver or the lug wrench with the pointy end to jam in the driveshaft u-joints to prevent them from spinning while you are loosening. Only use a regular wrench, ratcheting wrenches won't fit. The differential bolts are the ones that you should remove, then bring some tie wire with to tie the driveshaft up out of the way.
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I LEFT AT 4, and got home at like 230 am lol
why disconnect the driveshaft? oops/
well, i got the car in my garage
PICTURE DUMP TOMORROW
PICTURE DUMP TOMORROW
PICTURE DUMP TOMORROW
yea sorry red rocket, i came and went. i wanted too see your s12!
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Yeah Im sorry I wouldnt have been able to show it to ya anyways during the week I live in greensboro, NC with some friends but on the weekends Im in Goldsboro. The shop where you picked up the s12 (aka Corky) is right down from mine where my car is. its not much to look at right now its filled with parts and has no motor. you could hae seen the cage at least thats about it.
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You disconnect the driveshaft so you don't fuck up the trans. Too late now, hopefully its not a problem
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picture dump!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0952.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0954.jpg)
OEM FUCK YEA
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0955.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0956.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0958.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0959.jpg)
i think it will start tonight
and thank you jaidseye,
for this thing, it HELPS
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0950.jpg)
gas was a bitch though
it was about 180
oh, and we used a 16 foot trailer,
so i guess the driveshaft is fine
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Too bad jaidedeye sold his 12. But atleast it went to another cs12 member. Interior looks kinda rough but overall the body looks pretty straight. And the black dash is a big plus.
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ruff? the interior is perfect,
i dont want the rear interor, the rest needs to just be cplted back together
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how do i releive the timing belt tension?
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its in that book, the tensioner is located by the water pump. you need a star headed wrench or socket. loosen the star bolts and that relieves the tension. the book will also tell you how to set the tension when you put the belt back on...
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the book says that there is bolts, but i cant really get the loose,
hmm.i spin the bolts left? take them off.
do i do anything before that?
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ladies and germs theres no need to disconnect the shaft. neutral position works just fine. i towed an auto notch from philly a while back with the prndl in n the whole way. 80s tech isnt that far advanced, remember! lol way to go on the pick db. good luck
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i know you like pics, so here it goes (my motor is a ca20e, not sure if that is what you have, but same principal for most tensioners)
star head wrench
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj29/bluke1/DSC02218.jpg)
loosen both bolts (counterclockwise, or if your english, anti-clockwise) loosen both a couple turns, do not need to remove either bolt completely
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj29/bluke1/DSC02216.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj29/bluke1/DSC02221.jpg)
that will relieve tension on belt. the fsm says to reinstall you need to align the belt and rotate the motor a couple turns and then retighten both bolts, which will set the correct tension.
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Too bad jaidedeye sold his 12. But atleast it went to another cs12 member. Interior looks kinda rough but overall the body looks pretty straight. And the black dash is a big plus.
yeah, brand new carpet, restored black dash, new black healiner and all new black interior trim.....yeah, real rough
hater
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interior looked great, just needed assembly! wish i coulda bought it!
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interior looked great, just needed assembly! wish i coulda bought it!
^^ sorry thats what I meant
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is that a muffler or a jet engine?
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It makes a sonic boom!
That will make one really nice car when it is done!
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is that a muffler or a jet engine?
its actually a real HKS muffler. redrocket installed it before i bought the car
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its ginormous
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its ginormous
I have one of those ginormous HKS Hiper mufflers for my 200 .. I just have to get mine installed.
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ALRIGHT,
UPDATE*********************************************
by myself, and my premature mechanic brain,
i took out the whole intake blah blah
i managed to put on the timing belt, first time changing one (i hope i did it right, it took forever), i bought a brand new one
got all those pulleys back on together,
and, find a battery (relocating it to back)
and TIGHTENED ALL THE SPARK PLUGS, they were all super lose! im so happy i check,
which jaidseye said "they were fine" lol
and i hooked up all the spark plugs and ignition coils
tomorrow, im throwing in some SUPER cheap oil and a oil filter, just to start it, and watch it leak all that oil out probally lol
i gotta find all th disconnected vaccum lines, and connect them
REDROCKET< JAIDSEYE> READ THIS
let me know if i need to look out for anything! im attempting to start this tomorrow,
and you guys are somewhat familiar with das car
alright
goodnight!
EDIT****
question,
does it matter what battery i use?
i have my moms old exploerer sportrac battery because it was kinda dying...
will it work?
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did you check the timing before u installed the belt? i think u have to set the engine to TDC, then rotate the camshaft to a certain point BEFORE installing the belt
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my nieghbor, i met him today for the first time, and asked him, he hd all the tools i didnt have
we set the lines, to what his book said, and tried to get it right
im SUPER worried about it
but regardless,
i just want the CA20 so i dont have to tow it when i move....
i am saving for a KA regardless. but it would be nice too run
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EDIT**
and BTW where do i plug in the aftermarket rad fan?
the power wire is loose
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david. the timing marks have to line up at TDC. before you crank the car make sure you turn the motor over by hand.
if you followed the FSM i gave you then you should be ok. also make sure your distributor is stabbed correctly.
sorry about the plugs being loose. i never checked them but i know redrocket changed all that stuff when he had the car before me
EDIT**
and BTW where do i plug in the aftermarket rad fan?
the power wire is loose
hook the power wire to a key on fuse.
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take the plugs out before u try and rotate the engine though
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well the guy is way more car smart then me, im pretty sure its set right, i did turn it by hand with the plugs out
he has a 7 second 5.0 mustang btw
stabbed correctly.? explain
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well the guy is way more car smart then me, im pretty sure its set right, i did turn it by hand with the plugs out
he has a 7 second 5.0 mustang
stabbed correctly.? explain
make sure you distributor is timed correctly with the corresponding cylinder. simply installing it doesnt mean its correct
example: if the motor is at #1 TDC then install the distributor with the rotor pointed at the #1 position on the cap
take the plugs out before u try and rotate the engine though
yeah that does make it easier to rotate but not required
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ugh.
i have the distributor aimed down
i dont know shit, about positions
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ugh.
i have the distributor aimed down
i dont know shit, about positions
just take your time with the car man. i admire your wanting to get the car running asap but if you arent to sure about what you are doing then you might want to throttle back a bit. there are plenty of people on this forum that can help you out.
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alright, i agree.
can someone explain these positions?
i kinda remember where the yellow marks are set,
i used the little line on the top of the red cover for the top one, and the bottow one, that little kink, is aimed upwards,
and the lines on the belt, fit perfectly with that
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alright, i agree.
can someone explain these positions?
i kinda remember where the yellow marks are set,
i used the little line on the top of the red cover for the top one, and the bottow one, that little kink, is aimed upwards,
and the lines on the belt, fit perfectly with that
the timing mark you need is on the crank pulley.
the way i always do it is this way:
take the valve cover off, crank the motor over until TDC is reached on the crank pulley. keep cranking it until both the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder. at that point the TDC mark should be lined up on the crank pulley. install the distributor in the #1 plug wire position.
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see thats what i dont get
the number one plug position wire?
and closed number one cylinder?
and for setting the belt....
what about that metal tab, that comes out of the timing bbelt cover
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the number one plug position wire? #1 cylinder position on the distributor cap.. you have two plugs per cylinder but its the same idea. the FSM will show you exactly where it is.
and closed number one cylinder? both valves will be closed at TDC (springs not compressed)
and for setting the belt....
what about that metal tab, that comes out of the timing bbelt cover.. the tab on the lower cover is for checking timing against the crank pulley. there are notches in the crank pulley
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the number one plug position wire? #1 cylinder position on the distributor cap.. you have two plugs per cylinder but its the same idea. the FSM will show you exactly where it is.
as i change plug position
does rotating the ditribitor do anything?
should i take the ditributor off, and try again.
should i do timing belt again (i really do not want too)
and, to reach TDC (top dead center),
cant someone just tell me where the yellow mark chills?
im real sorry for being retarded
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the fsm has drawings as well as text that describe perfectly what you need to line up. the cam gear has a dot on a tooth that a corresponds with a line on the timing belt. the second line on the timing belt corresponds with a mark on the crank pulley. there are multiple well drawn pics in the fsm that show this. in the last page of the engine overhaul heading in the engine mechanical section of the fsm, it show a picture of a mark on the distributer and says turn camshaft until no 1 piston is at tdc on compression stroke (both valves closed) align dist. gear mark advanced by one tooth with mark on the dist. shaft.
if you read the book carefully, and look at the supplied drawings, it should be very simple. you make your motor/distributer look like the one in the pictures. its much easier than you make it out to be. and it wouldnt hurt you to read a book on basic automotive principals so you get a better understanding of things like top dead center, firing order, and electrical operation to name a few.
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eh,
i just stuck to interior today
put in those sweet door panels!
UGH so fresh!
thanks jaidseye!
two!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0974.jpg)
i have yet to even wipe these off, and they still look amazing!
its actually a real HKS muffler. redrocket installed it before i bought the car
HAHA, im pretty sure its Zip tied lol
oh yea JAIDSEYE.. or REDROCKET
i found a reciept from greensboro,
someone went to mcdonalds and only bought 2 sweet teas.
WTF?
boring
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oh yea JAIDSEYE.. or REDROCKET
i found a reciept from greensboro,
someone went to mcdonalds and only bought 2 sweet teas.
WTF?
boring
LOL thats probably from me. My wife loves the McD's sweet tea its quite addictive.
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lol. i like chik filas better
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those door panels are killer! i want a set! oh, and next time you paint, you might want to put down cardboard first so your garage floor doesnt get all messy!
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those door panels are killer! i want a set! oh, and next time you paint, you might want to put down cardboard first so your garage floor doesnt get all messy!
im moving, and the house is going on FORCLOSURE, because the ass we were renting off DIPPED out.
yea.
so i dont really care about the garage
QUESTION,
switching to KA24DE
what will that do with automatic doors, and the voice, and all that stuff?
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The engine harness does not deal with the talking lady and power windows etc. The KA24DE swap is pretty straight forward. Wiring isn't that hard. I guided turbo_s12 through his ca18det wiring and he had very little issues. It's approximately 15 wires to splice and solder. If you want me to make you a plug-n-play conversion harness, goto the junkyard and get the S12/S13 connectors I need to do it(+ something extra) and I'd gladly do it. You can be my first test mule for it hehe. I was going to do this for my car, BUT I couldn't get 18ET engine connectors(20e ones are different).
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The engine harness does not deal with the talking lady and power windows etc. The KA24DE swap is pretty straight forward. Wiring isn't that hard. I guided turbo_s12 through his ca18det wiring and he had very little issues. It's approximately 15 wires to splice and solder. If you want me to make you a plug-n-play conversion harness, goto the junkyard and get the S12/S13 connectors I need to do it(+ something extra) and I'd gladly do it. You can be my first test mule for it hehe. I was going to do this for my car, BUT I couldn't get 18ET engine connectors(20e ones are different).
well a KA is down the road from me (not that far now!)
but, dont i need the actual engine/year for you to do that.
and i love too solder shit anyways so yea
and MO PICTAZ
sorry,
but im a picture person.
pictures,
pictures
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0989.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0988.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0986.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0985.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0987.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0983.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0984.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0981.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0982.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0980.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0979.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0978.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0977.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0976.jpg)
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Not necessarily. The wiring is pretty much out there. All you really need to get is an S13 KA and the harness will plug right in haha. But I mean if you wanna tackle it yourself go for it. I'll prob try making a conversion harness and testing it out on another car later then hehe. Go and fix up both cars first hehe.
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wait so, does the year matter?
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bump, thanks for the thread change arro
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i cant pop the hood, it seems like the pull has been worn out,
any ideas how to open it? the honeycomb grill is off anyways, and i see the whole setup,
i tried a few things butno luck,
HELP
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QUESTION,
switching to KA24DE
what will that do with automatic doors, and the voice, and all that stuff?
why? does veronica turn you on lol
sorry, no help for the hood though...
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i cant pop the hood, it seems like the pull has been worn out,
any ideas how to open it? the honeycomb grill is off anyways, and i see the whole setup,
i tried a few things butno luck,
HELP
try getting to the cable under the dash and give it a twist or pull with some needle nose pliers
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why? does veronica turn you on lol
sorry, no help for the hood though...
veronica does turn me on
and i eneded up breaking the shit out of the latch,
im gonna do HOOD pins i guess,
seems pretty simple.
i have another question,
how hard would it be to slap cruise control on my other s12??
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i cant pop the hood, it seems like the pull has been worn out,
any ideas how to open it? the honeycomb grill is off anyways, and i see the whole setup,
i tried a few things butno luck,
HELP
so you broke the hood latch already?
just pull it....
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noo, it was working, and then it stopped workin
i pulled, i jiggled the wires and everything.
i pulled at the end of the cord it was LOCKED up somehow.
i tried for like 2 hours...
plus, whats wrong with hoodpins?
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TODAY
i decided to start engine removal before i move,
im just gonna dump the engine,trans onto a pallet
today, i removed the fenders/hood/bumper
anyone, what do i disconnect for the engine to come out?
the exaust manifold....
the drivetrain...
some parts of the harness....
is that all?
AND DUH HERES PICTURES
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1223.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1226.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1224.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1225.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1227.jpg)
so,
anyone.
with tips/information to remove the engine.
i do have a friend who is a little mechanically experienced to help me do this
i know to, remove the transimission fluid and stuff
but what else?????!
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shouldnt this be in the s12 garage?
you have a long road ahead of you man, have fun
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disconnect downpipe, unbolt engine mounts, disconnect water lines, pull wiring harness through after disconnecting it from the ecu, disconnect fuel lines, remove shifter assy, unbolt transmission cross member, remove carrier bearing from the driveshaft and pull drive shaft out of the back of the tranny, hoist engine up off of engine mounts, make sure all wires and hoses are disconnected, hoist up higher, pull forward, hoist higher, pull forward, hoist higher and have someone step/push down on the back of trans and jack it up until it clears the core support/radiator...complete engine removal guide lol...do it in semi-that order
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shouldnt this be in the s12 garage?
you have a long road ahead of you man, have fun
it should
it was my S12 adventure thread.... but arro changed it
IF MODERATOR SEES THIS THREAD PLEASE MOVE IT UNDER THE GARAGE THREAD
disconnect downpipe, unbolt engine mounts, disconnect water lines, pull wiring harness through after disconnecting it from the ecu, disconnect fuel lines, remove shifter assy, unbolt transmission cross member, remove carrier bearing from the driveshaft and pull drive shaft out of the back of the tranny, hoist engine up off of engine mounts, make sure all wires and hoses are disconnected, hoist up higher, pull forward, hoist higher, pull forward, hoist higher and have someone step/push down on the back of trans and jack it up until it clears the core support/radiator...complete engine removal guide lol...do it in semi-that order
and thanks,
ill prob have questions when i come across but thats a decent order
hoisting the engine wont happen until i find a friend that i can borrow,
im gonna buy a engine lift,
but not right now,
what about the radiator?
i took it out anyways...
i would rather end up buying a new one for this car,
plus i had to drain the fluid anyway
how much trans fuild comes out of this thing?
sop i can get a big enough bucket for it..... and now undershoot
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my auto drained quite a bit, not sure how much though...
is it like 5 quarts for a stick?
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alright,
my oil drain thing should be good...
i just needed an estiment so i ddint overfill into my garage
and im sure the service manual says where the drain bolt for the trans fluid is
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alright,
my oil drain thing should be good...
i just needed an estiment so i ddint overfill into my garage
and im sure the service manual says where the drain bolt for the trans fluid is
the drain bolt for the trans fluid should be on the bottom of the trans right smack dab in the middle of it, it hold about 4-5 quarts of 80w90 and watch out make sure all of it gets in the bucket because since its an s12 its prolly really old fluid and itll smell like absolute shit, but you just need a 1/2 inch drive ratchet to take it loose...oh AND you prolly need a breaker bar so you have some leverage
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the drain bolt for the trans fluid should be on the bottom of the trans right smack dab in the middle of it, it hold about 4-5 quarts of 80w90 and watch out make sure all of it gets in the bucket because since its an s12 its prolly really old fluid and itll smell like absolute shit, but you just need a 1/2 inch drive ratchet to take it loose...oh AND you prolly need a breaker bar so you have some leverage
who needs a breaker bar
thats what i have legs for!
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i got the fluid drain out for the trans,
boy that was a bitch lol
now im off to the exaust, and then the drive train
probally it for tonight
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dont forget to drain the headlight fluid!
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headlights have fluid?
whyyyyyy
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where is the drain for the headlight fluid?
are you sure its important?
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0982.jpg)
now thats a high performance mod. skateboard for a seat = lots o' weight savings.
this car is officially fast AND furious
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now thats a high performance mod. skateboard for a seat = lots o' weight savings.
this car is officially fast AND furious
lol
i got a S13 seat,
im waiting for those dudes to make those brackets hopefully!
your just jealous of my skateboard seat.
its a stacey peralta board,
an originial
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dont forget to drain the headlight fluid!
really man? did you have to go there
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really man? did you have to go there
whats even funnier is im not sure if he knows he was fucking with him or not...ive never heard headlight fluid...but more like blinker fluid...skyhook bench stretcher??? dual overhead driveshaft...a rotary with cams and pistons??? factory mustang gtr with factory intercooler lol
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ha.ha.
that was, so.... funny
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*moved to club-s12 garage section*
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dont forget to drain the headlight fluid!
(http://kalecoauto.com/images/BlinkFluid.jpg)
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(http://kalecoauto.com/images/BlinkFluid.jpg)
hahaha where did you find that??? or did you make it...thats fucking awesome
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Someone else moved it, not me
Just start disconnecting everything.... you won't be reusing lots of it, so disconnect anything connected to the engine.
Do you have a hoist yet?
Oh hey are you gutting your interior? If you wanted to sell that carpet I'd buy it.
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Someone else moved it, not me
Just start disconnecting everything.... you won't be reusing lots of it, so disconnect anything connected to the engine.
Do you have a hoist yet?
Oh hey are you gutting your interior? If you wanted to sell that carpet I'd buy it.
no, the interior is just basically pulled apart. (i dont have seats rememeb)
and
the carpet, BTW. isnt even stock carpet, jaidseye made it himself i think, and it fits damn good, i just have to cut out a few more pieces to completely fit around the bolt
and NO i wont sell it! i need carpet!
the hoist is the problem,
i need to find a friend with one,
ill buy one someday,
but not now.
i just want the engine OUt
so
lets see what happens
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u dont NEED a hoist, if yuo drop the engine out the bottom of the car. basically, you remove the subframe and lower it on a jack to the ground.
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u dont NEED a hoist, if yuo drop the engine out the bottom of the car. basically, you remove the subframe and lower it on a jack to the ground.
that involves sooo much more work though...tie rods, subframe, power steering lines, AND whatever the bitch that is the s12 throws your way
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^ what he said, i had the motor out and had to swap my front crossmember and it was a bitch and a half with no weight, i can only imagane what kind of trouble it would of been with a motor and all. just get your own cherry picker, they are not that expencive depending on where you shop, i got mine from a tool sale for about a $100, its a good investment regardless to have your own tools that you can use whenever you need instead of useing someone elses when its convenient for them, trust me i thought my swap was going to be quick and painless, i would of been borrowing someones tools for 2 years now had i not bought my own
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Cardboard is your freind. Fluids will come out of places you didn't know existed
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that involves sooo much more work though...tie rods, subframe, power steering lines, AND whatever the bitch that is the s12 throws your way
that could be very usful for someone who doesn't own a hoist though. my automotive teacher had to do that once. his miata blow a motor (completely shot) he got some dollie or some shit with tires and replaced the motor that way... he put his miata near a tree and dropped the motor in from the tree using the tree as a hoist. Lol
crazy things he use to do lol
(EDIT: he had to do it in a 1 - 2 day period because his miata is his DD
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that could be very usful for someone who doesn't own a hoist though. my automotive teacher had to do that once. his miata blow a motor (completely shot) he got some dollie or some shit with tires and replaced the motor that way... he put his miata near a tree and dropped the motor in from the tree using the tree as a hoist. Lol
crazy things he use to do lol
(EDIT: he had to do it in a 1 - 2 day period because his miata is his DD
omg lol, i would never trust wood to do metals job...weird...i wouldve been scared shitless that the branch wouldve broken...but regardless, once you get the engine out youre going to havta have someone help you rock that bitch off of the cross member, and then back on again...which...risks damage to the oil pan and what have you...but regardless...its your choice dude...do what makes you happy
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.....
i said.
im borrowing a hoist?
jesus
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^lol
I've heard of people using trees several times. I wouldn't trust it tho
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^lol
I've heard of people using trees several times. I wouldn't trust it tho
honestly,
since my hosue is going into forclosure,
the house has a I BAR right above where the car sits,
i was thinking maybe i could just buy a winch, and bolt it on,
i mean FORCLOSURE, meaning, it doesnt matter what happens to the house, the bank is taking it
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Thats probably not strong enough to handle the engine.
EDIT: You mean I beam, ok, that might be good enough. Regardless,
You sure as shit wouldn't want to get it halfway out, and then have it come down on the car. It could fuck it up pretty badly. Be worse if you happened to be in the way...
The hoist would have to be secured to the I beam really, really well.
If you purposely damage the house, they can come after you, not that its likely tho
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Thats probably not strong enough to handle the engine.
EDIT: You mean I beam, ok, that might be good enough. Regardless,
You sure as shit wouldn't want to get it halfway out, and then have it come down on the car. It could fuck it up pretty badly. Be worse if you happened to be in the way...
The hoist would have to be secured to the I beam really, really well.
If you purposely damage the house, they can come after you, not that its likely tho
haha
well
the house isnt forclosing on my mom.
its forclosing on the rentor who disapeered
so,
no one wouldn know
it is an I beam
sorry,
its the beam connected to the POLE in the middle of the garage,
it goes all the way across the cieling,
i can see where they painted over it
but honestly,
thats where my room is.
and i dont want my bed on my car
so ill prob wait on the move/unless i get a hoist
-
i thought discount auto and advanced auto had engine hoist for rent?
-
i thought discount auto and advanced auto had engine hoist for rent?
omg did they?
that would be perfect as shit!
UPDATE*****
exaust and driveshaft disconnected.
is the water line the line that has foamy shit that comes out of it?
w/e well i disconnected that too
trying to think of anything else i need to get,
where are fuel lines ETC. that i need to spot?
any other fluids?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1234.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1238.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1239.jpg)
sorry everyone,
but im doing this one step at a time
i cant afford to make mistakes
-
once your done with the swap give the motor (CA20E) to nissan watch I bet they'll throw it away Lol
-
Don't forget heater core lines.
-
what do i leave in exactly....
i understand the brake stuff, blah blah,
anything important?
-
once your done with the swap give the motor (CA20E) to nissan watch I bet they'll throw it away Lol
HAHAHA!!!LOL AND OTHER SUCH INTERNET LAUGH ABBREVIATIONS!!!
-
you'll leave the vacume canster alone as well as the power stearing lines, basicly anything you disconect will have a counter part on your new motor that will have to be reconected, a feed and return line for just about everything, just label everything if that helps and take your time, read any nissan swap guide you can get your hands on, there all basicly the same. the sr20det into s13 swap guides that the tuner and project car mags. did helped me a buntch with getting the basic idea of how nissan does things
-
you'll leave the vacume canster alone as well as the power stearing lines, basicly anything you disconect will have a counter part on your new motor that will have to be reconected, a feed and return line for just about everything, just label everything if that helps and take your time, read any nissan swap guide you can get your hands on, there all basicly the same. the sr20det into s13 swap guides that the tuner and project car mags. did helped me a buntch with getting the basic idea of how nissan does things
alright.
so far,
i ahve been black trash bagging everything ive taken off
im gonna take some more pics,
and ask if i should keep them also
-
*moved to club-s12 garage section*
thanks
-
UPDATE******
alright,
i got sick of not being able to find a hoist,
and im obviously impatient,
so i decided to get some BRAIN
i attempted removing the transmission, plus it will make it easier to pull the engine right?
and... my trans is going out, so i might as well learn how to pull one, and replace another...
SO
wielding my POS 160 piece toolset of MIGHT! and 3 painstaking hours later
success!
hahaha
and arro,
sterling was right, im just stupid,
there is another piece to the driveshaft
i need a hoist!
dammit
-
you could peice out the motor part by part until you just have the cylinder block (without the pistons) in the car then you can have someone help you take it out manually like that. plus it'll give you a chance to learn alot of cool stuff along the way.
-
you could peice out the motor part by part until you just have the cylinder block (without the pistons) in the car then you can have someone help you take it out manually like that. plus it'll give you a chance to learn alot of cool stuff along the way.
yea that also came into mind
this whole process is hard learning all by myself
but
i might as well wait till i move, which is in literally 24 days
i already have like a bunch of parts that i have to move, other then the car
because im not throwing away the CA20E
im keeping it, just in case my CA20E in my other car breaks something.
OH YEA
and the house im moving into....
HAS A MASSIVE 2 DOOR GARAGE.
its like half of the house!
its just me and my mom (sister in colledge)
so
she said the garage is ALL mine MIEN MINE MINE. no one at all but me
makes up for the small room
-
If you get a full 2 car garage to yourself, it would make me the most jealous person in the world. My 200 and saab are currently being shitted on by many birds, and trees.
PULL THAT MOTOR!!
-Dan
-
If you get a full 2 car garage to yourself, it would make me the most jealous person in the world. My 200 and saab are currently being shitted on by many birds, and trees.
PULL THAT MOTOR!!
-Dan
haha im deff PMing you a picture just to piss you off once i move
i have a question off subject,
do yu type
"-Dan"
every post you make?
lol jus wondering
-
you need new muffler bearings once the motor swap is done man jus remember.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3)
-
you need new muffler bearings once the motor swap is done man jus remember.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3)
is that whole site a bullshit site?
STOP LOL
jesus with the rick rolling and blinker fluids
not in my build thread,
im trying to get important info
-
OMG!!! thats gotta be the greatest website ive ever seen!!!
-
well,
i should have an engine lift by 730 tonight
my friend was gonna bring it last night.... but lately it rains EVERYDAY
and he was held back at work
the engine can rock back and forth on the mounts, all LOOSE and is ITCHING to come out, OMG WTF lol. no tranny, no nothing on it lmao
this is exciting
-
well
well
well
that guy was an asshole
but guess what
my dad (who does not live with me)
turns out he has has one?!?!?
why?
i dont know.
but i should be getting it tomorrow
and i try to count on my family....
here is my crapp garage.
caint wait to get the bigger one
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1251.jpg)
so tomorrow,
engine should be coming out!!
-
alright
i did it by myself
kinda confusing.... but
its a start.
-
im still confused on what i need to remove? like what part oof the harness? any help?
-
come on anyone?!?!?!
-
Dude, its one in the morning. Not many people are on right now
OK, you know the wires you took off the engine? Not the spark plug wires, the ones that went to the sensors? Follow that bundle of wires. Its going to go to the firewall, down by the driver's side strut tower, to underneath the airbox (by the coils and stuff). Start removing the wiring.
There is going to be two or three connectors (THE ONES THAT WILL GET USED WHEN YOU SWAP IN THE NEW MOTOR) that connect the engine harness to the chassis harness. Unplug those.
NOW the wiring loom goes into the fender, and up and over the wheel well plastic, and into the passenger compartment, where it connects to the ECU. Unplug the computer, and remove the rest of the harness.
NOTE you don't have to take off the fender, you can remove the fender liner (the plastic thing) inside the wheel well, and snake it out thru there.
This is the EFI harness, or engine harness, whatever you want to call it. You DO NOT need it if you are going to go with a different engine (a KA, for example).
-
Dude, its one in the morning. Not many people are on right now
OK, you know the wires you took off the engine? Not the spark plug wires, the ones that went to the sensors? Follow that bundle of wires. Its going to go to the firewall, down by the driver's side strut tower, to underneath the airbox (by the coils and stuff). Start removing the wiring.
There is going to be two or three connectors (THE ONES THAT WILL GET USED WHEN YOU SWAP IN THE NEW MOTOR) that connect the engine harness to the chassis harness. Unplug those.
NOW the wiring loom goes into the fender, and up and over the wheel well plastic, and into the passenger compartment, where it connects to the ECU. Unplug the computer, and remove the rest of the harness.
NOTE you don't have to take off the fender, you can remove the fender liner (the plastic thing) inside the wheel well, and snake it out thru there.
This is the EFI harness, or engine harness, whatever you want to call it. You DO NOT need it if you are going to go with a different engine (a KA, for example).
guh its 6.24 am
im gonna get sleep,
and coem abck to this.
thanks for the help
-
alright,
gotta remove more wires and stuff.
so sterling.
the part of the harness that i leave...
thats the one that plugs near the injectors right?
goes ove the top and off to the side...
here are some more pics of the cleaning/removal process
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1264.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1265.jpg)
ill clean more later, and some day,
there is some rust,
so im thinking of sanding and painting also
whats a good paint for the engine bay? that will last?
-
I would use high-heat stuff for the engine bay. It might not be necessary though
-
I would use high-heat stuff for the engine bay. It might not be necessary though
how about just normal automotive paint? is that good enough?
where is a good place to get it?
i want a durable, paint, with a nice set of colors, kinda thick paint you know?
-
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/enginebay.jpg)
alright,
do i remove the green?
i have started to remove that,
im guessing it goes around the fender through the car to the ECU right?
is that whatt you ment?
what about the pink?
those pink wires went across the engine, by the injectors and stuff
-
DO NOT REMOVE THE GREEN. That is the chassis side of the ecu power/relay harness. The pink looks like the engine harness. Are those injector clips on it? If so take that out. Do not cut anything and don't break the clips that plug into the chassis side.
EDIT: The engine harness goes along the driver side, not passenger like the S13/S14s.
-
DO NOT REMOVE THE GREEN. That is the chassis side of the ecu power/relay harness. The pink looks like the engine harness. Are those injector clips on it? If so take that out. Do not cut anything and don't break the clips that plug into the chassis side.
EDIT: The engine harness goes along the driver side, not passenger like the S13/S14s.
dammit
well
i kinda started but i can put it back
-
Dude, you've got to read what I wrote, all that info was there for the harness. The red shit that *connected to the engine* is whats going, because you aren't going to put that *engine* back in. Don't cut anything, just unclip it all and pull it out. Go back over that post and follow those directions to get the rest of it out.
For cleaning your engine bay, I HIGHLY recommend this product http://www.gunk.com/CAT_FEB1.asp (http://www.gunk.com/CAT_FEB1.asp) follow the directions on the can, have some sort of scrub brush, and your engine bay will turn out like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/S12_Tech/cleaned_bay_01.jpg)
with a little bit of paint. ANY paint really will do, high temp isn't particularly necessary,
I super like Rustoleum brand, and Krylon is good too. Pretty much any of their selection will do you well, as long as it isn't the cheaper shit.
Dupli-color is fine as well, you know the stuff at Autozone or wherever that is for matching up a car's color 100% factory. Those paints are good too.
Looking good so far!
-
hey i use foamy engine bright on my dirt bike when i had it,
its at AUTOZONE i think
but honestly,
i wanna skip the paint.
maybe a touch up,
but w/e im not trying to look really pretty,
just mostly GUNK free.
yea dude ima get some of that soon
what part of the mounts do i use for the KA24DE?
like what do i save?
i saved almost all my bolts off evrything too
i labled them
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/cleaned_bay_01.jpg)
the green,
that old thing.
if i dont want AC and extra crap (i just want power steering)
can i plug it?
and rip it out?
or not
what do i do?
-
Yeah, gunk free will make it look loads better at least. Tho, fix any rust caused by the paint coming off (look by the brake master cylinder if its leaked, they almost always do). Touch up is really all I meant, if you take a look closely at that pic, thats actually all I really did, it came that clean. The only paint is under the BMC and the trans tunnel (its more shiny, checks it out)
The KA stuff: you are going to use the metal bracket thats attached to the KA engine, and the rubber mounts (the actual motor mounts) that were used with the KA engine.
You can remove the stuff that goes thu those holes in the firewall, thats the AC stuff. Note how on that car, it has those plugs, because that S12 was never equipped with A/C. On my car, I just cut the lines, and the owner after me filled them with black silicone to seal up the holes.
Very good move bagging and marking the bolts. This is the best thing you can do, really. Organization will make the difference whether your project will get done or not
-
Yeah, gunk free will make it look loads better at least. Tho, fix any rust caused by the paint coming off (look by the brake master cylinder if its leaked, they almost always do). Touch up is really all I meant, if you take a look closely at that pic, thats actually all I really did, it came that clean. The only paint is under the BMC and the trans tunnel (its more shiny, checks it out)
The KA stuff: you are going to use the metal bracket thats attached to the KA engine, and the rubber mounts (the actual motor mounts) that were used with the KA engine.
You can remove the stuff that goes thu those holes in the firewall, thats the AC stuff. Note how on that car, it has those plugs, because that S12 was never equipped with A/C. On my car, I just cut the lines, and the owner after me filled them with black silicone to seal up the holes.
Very good move bagging and marking the bolts. This is the best thing you can do, really. Organization will make the difference whether your project will get done or not
yeai was thinking about just wire brushing,
then sanding,
and adding some blue generic touch up paint over it.
so,
i take the rubber mounts off my car,
and instead of using silicone for now,
ill just CUT the line, and like crimp it together,
then some metal tape or something for now.
i have another problem.
when i leave the car out in the rain.
it leaks.
into the car,
somewhere up front,
it comes down the side of the trans tunnel. and under the carpet,
what can i block on the exterior to stop this?!?!?!
i just dont want the carpet to get ruined....
so for now the car has to avoid the rain at all costs.
i cant stand mildew smells
-
got some engine bright,
i bought like 3 cans,
because i still have shit too take out of the bay,
before i fully clean it.
so
here is stage 2 of cleaning,
probally about 75 percent GUNK free.
more to come soon
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1276.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1273.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1275.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1277.jpg)
Meh
EDIT*
oh
to add to my stupidity, lol
i dont know what these two things are,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1269.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1268.jpg)
should i remove them
will i need them?
-
the first looks like a condenser of some sort I would say a/c but your car didn't have it the second it defiantly the charcoal canister it is emission device I didn't have it on my old turbo and it ran....not well (start up and 3k rpm) it did that 3k thing for other reasons never found out what though but it ran if you delete it cap off the lines heck if you remove it remove all the emissions stuff
o and nice build I like the color of the car always a fan of blue
-
the first looks like a condenser of some sort I would say a/c but your car didn't have it the second it defiantly the charcoal canister it is emission device I didn't have it on my old turbo and it ran....not well (start up and 3k rpm) it did that 3k thing for other reasons never found out what though but it ran if you delete it cap off the lines heck if you remove it remove all the emissions stuff
o and nice build I like the color of the car always a fan of blue
well im pretty sure that condenser thing is for the AC,
came from the wall,just wopndering if it is needed afeter swap
that charcoal emissions thing.... would i get this with a KA24DE.
and honestly i could buy a new one if its not TOO expensive for the KA
-
lol everyone is soooo responsive
-
lol everyone is soooo responsive
oh thats cool,
blah blah blah??
yeeeaa. i understand.
hmm.
i dunno,
how about you?
eh.
maybe some other time,
haha.
yea lol
-
Thats an engaging conversation.
I went to respond to your thread yesterday, and it killed my computer.
You can re-use that black, round canister (pic #2) with the KA. The KA probably won't have the canister with it, but just hook up the KA's hoses to that one (they are long enough, the correct size too).
The A/C stuff, the condensor (finned radiator looking thing) and the receiver/dryer (round canister), can definitely be removed, seeing as you have no ac.
ENGINE BAY IS LOOKING VERY SHARP Good job there!
You can take the rubber engine mounts off your car then, yes. You will need to use KA ones, whether they come with your engine (but may be broken) or get new ones, will depend on what you get with the engine.
However you want to cap the old A/C lines where they go into the firewall is up to you. What you can do, is disconnect them by loosening the nuts, remove the lines, and then take balloons and use that to seal up the tubes. I did this, and it was cool. lol.
For your water leak, what you need to do is this. Dry everything off real good. Then, take a hose, with a spray nozzle, and GENTLY wet an area. Look for leaks. Repeat. Try and find out where the water is coming from by looking to see where it drips/runs down/collects. You may have to pull the carpet/other plastic shit out of the way to do this. Sometimes it is helpful with more than one person.
Love the new sig line graphics man! I lol'd @ them
-
You can re-use that black, round canister (pic #2) with the KA. The KA probably won't have the canister with it, but just hook up the KA's hoses to that one (they are long enough, the correct size too).
[/i][/b]
alright, ill keep it in a bag
The A/C stuff, the condensor (finned radiator looking thing) and the receiver/dryer (round canister), can definitely be removed, seeing as you have no ac.
[/i][/b]
alright just double checking, ill toss it, or keep it in case mine needs one
[qoute]
ENGINE BAY IS LOOKING VERY SHARP Good job there!
[/quote]
[/b]
haha thats nothing!,
i still got so much more scrubbing to do once i take out the windshield fluid stuff, and such.
You can take the rubber engine mounts off your car then, yes. You will need to use KA ones, whether they come with your engine (but may be broken) or get new ones, will depend on what you get with the engine.
[/b]
[/i]
i know, im just kinda lazy,
so i guess just toss the mounts?
However you want to cap the old A/C lines where they go into the firewall is up to you. What you can do, is disconnect them by loosening the nuts, remove the lines, and then take balloons and use that to seal up the tubes. I did this, and it was cool. lol.
[/i]
[/b]
where do those lines go?
is there something under the dash i should remove?
thats always been such a mystery to me lmao
i like the ballon idea, ill try that or think of something
For your water leak, what you need to do is this. Dry everything off real good. Then, take a hose, with a spray nozzle, and GENTLY wet an area. Look for leaks. Repeat. Try and find out where the water is coming from by looking to see where it drips/runs down/collects. You may have to pull the carpet/other plastic shit out of the way to do this. Sometimes it is helpful with more than one person.
[/i][/b]
its just hard to see,
because it trickles down the side of the tranny hole,
inside the car up under the dash,
im afraid i might have to strip the dash to get to it.
but ill try harder with a friend,
and the carpet is already loose and such
Love the new sig line graphics man! I lol'd @ them
[/i]
[/b]
haha thanks, i get bored. and i happen to have every ADOBE software made.
its kinda what i want to get into colledge with.
advertisement.
but more quality then i usually do lol
why arent my qoutes working
i dont know why so i bolded an underlind sterlings text
-
EDIT***
oh yea and sterling,
the stand under the battery.
how did you get that off?
-
LOL I took a really big pair of pliers to it, and just tore the shit out of it- into little bits. The intelligent way, easier, would be to get a drill and drill out the spot welds that hold it in. But, yeah.
Are you going to be putting the battery somewhere else?
Isn't it amazing how much shit is in the engine bay when you go to clean it?
You could toss the mounts, keep them, throw them at someone, doesn't really matter I suppose.
The A/C lines go to something called the Evaporator, its like a Heater Core (if you've ever seen one of those).
Basically, the heater core has hot water (the engine coolant), and it heats up the air, and the evaporator has the refrigerant, that cools down the air. Its small, and aluminum, so it can't weigh that much. Its ok to leave, really.
You really have to take some shit apart to get it out.
Your leak, you might have to do just that. But, look around, check it like I wrote (might not be a bad idea to take a pic of the leak/water coming in/where it streams from,etc) and maybe you won't have to tear out the dash.
Graphics man, pretty impressive. Obviously you don't suck at it, so go for it!
-
im tossing the battery to the rear, plus, i dont even have rear interior anyways.
i like how arro's car has the coolant bottle under where the battery was, i would like to do the same,
(http://i25.tinypic.com/dmbcys.jpg)
and that battery stand is in the way
im looking for that headlight switch, that little black box, i broke mine. if anyone has it let me know!!
i dont have a drill YET, so im prob gonna hammer and ply away,
my genric blue touch up paint i find will get those scracthes hidden
ill leave the evaporator,
but thanks for the info, i always wondered about that,
ill get pics of the leak,
instead of putting water into my car,
ill draw it out where its coming from for now
my outlook is MINIMAL shit under the hood,
except for power steering of course,
and a few electric fans around
i might just use GREAT STUFF, to plug the holes,
plus i have many more holes to plug someday,
ill just wear gloves this time around
is it bad to clean the car with the wire harness unplugged like that?
will it damage the eletrical system?
-
The windshield washer bottle down there was my work, when you're ready, and if I haven't done a how-to yet, I'll send you a load of pics.
I'll keep an eye out for that black box for ya
I'm a huge fan of minimum shit under the hood too, think it looks so much better.
Arro's car was just a warm up for what I want to do with mine.
I'm not sure how well great stuff will work for those holes, that tends to get everywhere fast.
As long as you dry everything off good, it should be fine. I would try and avoid soaking the wiring (although thats a bit difficult when you're cleaning like that) but if you've got a small air compressor you can always blow the water out of the connectors too. Or use your mouth, if nothing else.
A drawing of your leak would be a start, but pics would be great as well....
-
yea when i cleaned the bay,
i pulled the car out of the garage into the sun, both times so far,
are you labeling your wiring?
because i kinda wanna get a keytag on EVERY SINGLE tip of the harness,
so
once i get my KA in,
its just plug and play wire wise....
is that possible?
-
The sun will dry things out ok.
I rarely label my wiring anymore, I can lay the full harness on the ground and pretty much be able to tell what each connector does, but thats years of working with these cars that its gotten to that point, lol. I highly suggest you label if you disconnect (even like A--A, B--B, etc).
The KA isn't quite plug&play in terms of the ECU connectors, although mod_mastaz and I have been discussing building a plug&play subharness adapter.
Thing is, where the engine harness connects to the body,
On the S12, its on the drivers side,
On the S13/KA/SR/etc, its on the passenger side.
So you basically need to extend wires over there.
Its pretty simple tho.
-
The sun will dry things out ok.
I rarely label my wiring anymore, I can lay the full harness on the ground and pretty much be able to tell what each connector does, but thats years of working with these cars that its gotten to that point, lol. I highly suggest you label if you disconnect (even like A--A, B--B, etc).
The KA isn't quite plug&play in terms of the ECU connectors, although mod_mastaz and I have been discussing building a plug&play subharness adapter.
Thing is, where the engine harness connects to the body,
On the S12, its on the drivers side,
On the S13/KA/SR/etc, its on the passenger side.
So you basically need to extend wires over there.
Its pretty simple tho.
alright,
and anyways,
that part is down the road from me
-
Exactly. Once I finish the wiring how-to thread, it will be easy butter, whichever way you go.
-
Dude, somehow I missed your thread this week... man I gotta say, your engine bay cleanup looks amazing, great job dude
The reason why quotes don't work in that one post is because *in one post* you are only allowed to quote a limited amount of times. I want to remove that but *I have yet to find out if it's possible*.
If you use a second post right after the first, it'll combine the two into one, so that won't work, but if you wait five mins or so, your next post will remain seperate and I imagine you can have a few more quoted parts in that one.
-
Dude, somehow I missed your thread this week... man I gotta say, your engine bay cleanup looks amazing, great job dude
The reason why quotes don't work in that one post is because *in one post* you are only allowed to quote a limited amount of times. I want to remove that but *I have yet to find out if it's possible*.
If you use a second post right after the first, it'll combine the two into one, so that won't work, but if you wait five mins or so, your next post will remain seperate and I imagine you can have a few more quoted parts in that one.
ahh i see i know what you mean, thanks
UPDATE***
well,
ive decided to go with the KA24DE from my friend, who is parting his S13 out,
i have 170 dollars to my name,
i work at north american digital communications, at AOL headquarters this thursday for 100 bucks cash,
my paycheck comes in soon, probally a petty 130 (training)
ANNNDDD
the coolest thing happend!
my playstation 3 broke!!!!
sooo,
i had it under warrenty,
and when i bought it it was 734 bucks with the 2 year warranty,
and my warranty is up in two months
i got the 80 gig, with METAL GEAR SOLID haha! and the new DUALSHOCK (my controller was so fucked up)
PLUS,
i got another 100 bucks towards a gift card from it all (ps3 is cheaper now)
which. im trading cash from that off a friend buying a camera....
im selling a fridge on craigslist for 95 bux
and WALLA! KA24DE should be here no time!!!!!! haha im so gay
big pic!
(http://i25.tinypic.com/noj5f9.jpg)
great day
and by the way,
in the picture,
that is a REAL parking meter/ made lamp
-
Badass dude, I want a parking meter lamp! haha
That PS3=$$$
-
Badass dude, I want a parking meter lamp! haha
weld one!
its great, it even takes change
-
At least you got a garage to work on it... I have to work on my shit outside..
-
At least you got a garage to work on it... I have to work on my shit outside..
make a enclosure! thats what i would do,
it would be basic simple design, because it doesnt have to hold weight other then snow
-
UPDATE***
i give up on the KA deal,
too many looms, and hidden messages this guy is giving me,
im going to look someplace else,
but
i have some $$$ now anyways,
so
i might as well go buy TOOLS, i need alot of them,
going to order a 240 piece craftsman, just got a nice 18 inch 1/2 drive and some cool stuff,
buying these tools are going to be important down the road for me i guess,
more important then the engine itself,
still looking for a KA though
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1373.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1375.jpg)
-
Thats a SWEET pic man!!! Sell it to sears! lol
Tools,
are never a bad investment.
That is spending your money wisely, esp w/craftsman.
Another KA will pop up....
-
Yeah haha i love that ratchet picture, pretty awesome.
Sorry the deal fell through... I had that happen once before I found another one, and then since I knew it was a good deal I waited a couple months for it (lol poor Sterling!).
You'll get your engine set
-
bought another tool set,
to get a base of tools, aside from my shitty ones.
instead of getting the whole craftsman 245 piece shebang i decided to just go with a decent 190 piece one,
has alot of stuff, plus i need to buy more wrenches and such and special tools
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1378.jpg)
it feels so good to finally get this part over with lol
next im gonna look at torque wrenches, i want a large one, and a smaller one
-
Ok, this one is good for "in the car", but honestly, I've owned a few different "starter kit" toolsets from Craftsman, and the one you need is indeed the 245-piece set:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/00934245000.jpg)
I'm being straight with you here when I say that I've used just about every tool piece it came with on my S12, with the exceptions being some of the SAE-specific sockets and wrenches.
The kit you bought is perfect for an in-car set (which you should ALWAYS have), but don't short yourself, get the 245-piece. All the shit you will end up needing to add will cost more than just buying this, including the many deep sockets you absolutely need. Plus the 245-piece comes with an additional deep drawer that can hold more pieces you can add to the set, and they have a couple other accessory areas in the other drawers.
-
Ok, this one is good for "in the car", but honestly, I've owned a few different "starter kit" toolsets from Craftsman, and the one you need is indeed the 245-piece set:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/00934245000.jpg)
I'm being straight with you here when I say that I've used just about every tool piece it came with on my S12, with the exceptions being some of the SAE-specific sockets and wrenches.
The kit you bought is perfect for an in-car set (which you should ALWAYS have), but don't short yourself, get the 245-piece. All the shit you will end up needing to add will cost more than just buying this, including the many deep sockets you absolutely need. Plus the 245-piece comes with an additional deep drawer that can hold more pieces you can add to the set, and they have a couple other accessory areas in the other drawers.
i mean i have tools, there just crappy, but like sockets and stuff im set on, i have a bunch of deep sockets and stuff,
i plan to buy some larger wrenches and other kits too,
i just needed like a base to have some,
and lol,
i managed to get my CA20E out.... with the crap toolset... and ive always had that.... this should be somewhat a improvement
190 to 250,
with the sears deal and such,
is almost a 100 dollar difference.... yea it might be worth it, but im going to get some other stuff also
-
nice investment man, cant go wrong with that.
im torn between buying a rolling tool chest or parts for my s12 when i get my next amount of money.
-
im torn between buying a rolling tool chest or parts for my s12 when i get my next amount of money.
ahaha i know how you feel. its so hard to turn to tools, over parts.
becuase, you think you can without some tools and stuff, but there so damn helpful and awesome
but see what you mean arro,
those 50 pieces that im missing, include some,
but im looking for a BROAD socket wrench set, just sockets, like thin ones
-
good job
good tools
-
good job
good tools
thanks,
and
WERE FUCKING MOVING!
honestly,
the house SUCKS,
its a farm house, on two acres,
but
the garage, which is ALLL MINE ALLLLLLLL MINE is a awesome size
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/GAYRAGE.jpg)
(crap phone pic)
the garage has a cieling mounted heater and some other goodies,
blah blah,
by like 10 days ill be living there
-
lucky
-
UPDATE****
nothing latley,
i used another can, and started cleaning the bay up more,
its looking nice,
i started moving the garage, down the street to the new house,
people think im crazy! haha, my mom has the truck, and i dont have one, so i have to use my 4 wheeler/trailer to get stuff to my house while shes gone...
so im like rolling down the street in my quad with a CA20, some fenders, a hood, and some random parts. lol,
the nieghbors at the new house probally think all i drive is a 4 wheeler....
ill be moved within a week,
and after july 15th (warped tour/beach)
ill be back to the drawing boards saving money,
i have a question,
about the KA24DE,
for the swap,
i need
1. custom driveshaft... which is s13 front/S12 lengh..??
2. cut trans tunnel, to fit S13 tranny,
3. what about the S13 mounts... how do they go on?
i dont know much abut what else ill need for the swap,
i need to know,
whats NOT bolt on, what i need to get customly done.
what i need to get welded.... what i should start investing in..
and my other outlook is a rollcage, most deff for me, as going to my first drift event, watching a car flip in person for the first time!
(pics from that day)
i dont want to end up like that!
so im kinda torn between a ENGINE, and a rollcage,
because, honestly, i should learn more about the KA, before i get my hands on it and break something...
i found, http://www.pipermotorsport.com/services.asp (http://www.pipermotorsport.com/services.asp)
check em out
piper motorsports... i talked to the guy, and im getting an estimate on a 4 point cage, 4 point its deff enough for me
there located near me, and they got some cool stuff. awesome shit, i never thought i would actually be looking this kinda of stuff.
ill be getting an estimate in an email soon
-
Answer to question #3: For the engine, the S13 motor mounts just bolt right in, but for the trans, you're going to have to modify the crossmember. You'll probably have to do something like what's pictured in my thread or in Henry's.
UPDATE****
nothing latley,
i used another can, and started cleaning the bay up more,
its looking nice,
i started moving the garage, down the street to the new house,
people think im crazy! haha, my mom has the truck, and i dont have one, so i have to use my 4 wheeler/trailer to get stuff to my house while shes gone...
so im like rolling down the street in my quad with a CA20, some fenders, a hood, and some random parts. lol,
the nieghbors at the new house probally think all i drive is a 4 wheeler....
i dont know much abut what else ill need for the swap,
Yes you do, but getting the engine and trans in first is the priority.
and my other outlook is a rollcage, most deff for me, as going to my first drift event, watching a car flip in person for the first time!
so im kinda torn between a ENGINE, and a rollcage,
because, honestly, i should learn more about the KA, before i get my hands on it and break something...
There is no question in my mind that you need to get your engine swap done first. If you have lots of money and time, and have experience racing or tuning cars, then doing it all at once might make more sense, but this is all very new to you. Get your engine and transmission in first, get it running, get your driveshaft solution, and drive the KA around for awhile before you get behind the wheel in a race or drift event. It would be foolish to think you're ready for the track.
Street driving your car for awhile gives you the chance to get used to the KA's quirks, get a feel for the car, and get familiar with it... like it's a part of you. After that, maybe do some auto-cross racing... it's safe, and it's going to teach you A LOT about suspension and handling, which is important even with drifting. Once you're comfortable with your car, and you've modified and tuned the chassis (strut braces, swaybars, etc) and the suspension (springs or coilovers or whatever, camber, etc), THEN you can start thinking about drifting.
Yes, there are guys out there who just get in their beater and drift it. But if you're worried about a cage, you haven't learned enough about your car. If you're doing something that can roll your car, then you need to tune the suspension and drive it more modestly until you have *control*.
I think Marvin said it best, "Power ain't nuttin' without control."
So get your engine in. Drive it. Tune the chassis and suspension. Do some auto-x. Then when you're *comfortable* with the way your car feels, take it up a notch.
i found, http://www.pipermotorsport.com/services.asp (http://www.pipermotorsport.com/services.asp)
check em out
piper motorsports... i talked to the guy, and im getting an estimate on a 4 point cage, 4 point its deff enough for me
there located near me, and they got some cool stuff. awesome shit, i never thought i would actually be looking this kinda of stuff.
ill be getting an estimate in an email soon
Again, I don't really think you're in a position to worry about how many points the cage is, since you're in no skill level to even be pushing that car to those limits. And something to consider -- putting in a cage doesn't protect the car. It protects *you*. Most of the time, the car is quite capable of protecting you, even in a roll. The cage is nice for high-speed impacts, and for a sturdier chassis. But don't think that the cage protects the car! If you're worried you're gonna roll, then you're not ready to race. Period. Any impact that benefits from a cage is a *car killer*, and you'll be done. You'll have just spent all your money for nothing.
I just think you're coming at this wrong, that's all. You have a chance to build and learn on a good engine set, I'd rather see you enjoy it for awhile and then grow with it, instead of going into it balls-out and then out of a car.
-
i know, i am coming at it all wrong, lol. thats why im asking questions,
this is all new to me,
yea i guess the engine should be priority,l im just worried about it.
im afraid im going to get it, and do something really stupid, i would rather learn more? you know?
but yea
-
I understand that. Let me put it this way... you should get it running *before* you worry about more advanced racing needs. That's pretty much it.
Hell, I'd have my KA boosted before I had a rollcage put in.
-
I understand that. Let me put it this way... you should get it running *before* you worry about more advanced racing needs. That's pretty much it.
Hell, I'd have my KA boosted before I had a rollcage put in.
well after calling a few guys. and some references, i could get a "whatever" approved rollcage for like 400 bucks easy,
its just that, im gonna have troubble finding a decent KA., i would rather focus on suspension and such before my engine...
because to think about it, even if i got an engine now, it would be winter, before i ever even get the car started, therefor meaning i wouldnt be driving it as much, ya know?
-
Except that tuning aftermarket suspension without the engine in is impossible.
I still think you should do engine first, but it's your car $400 is enough to buy your engine and trans.
Oh, and $400 sounds awful cheap to me... emhpasis on both the "awful" and "cheap". I wouldn't trust a $400 cage. Is that installed? Or just some components?
Also, I don't trust a pre-made cage, I would want a shop to make it ON the car, so it fits right. I've heard countless horror stories of guys who plopped down anywhere from $600 to as high as $1400 and got something that when put together, it didn't even fit right.
It's just not worth it. You're worrying about cage and competition suspension before you even have it running. I still say get it running first.
-
You don't need a cage
Trust me
-
You don't need a cage
Trust me
i would like one eventually, i guess just not for now
-
Don't be sad about it tho, there's still PLENTY to get excited about with this engine swap!
So what are your smog laws like in VA?
-
i have questions but moving to a different thread on that topic,
-
As far as cages go i would listen to ARRO. My friend ordered a pre-made roll cage that came in two pieces. When it got here we realized the people who built it must not have test fitted it. It had four sleeves that bolted the two pieces together. When we went to put it together we had rubber mallets, long 2X4's a few people trying to stretch the connections just to fit. Needless to say it was not fun and i'm sure the neighbors thought we were crazy. we eventually had to get it most of the way and drill the holes a little better because the original holes did not line up, therefore losing some structural integrity im sure. Hopefully my long story about our experience helps you make your decision.
PS. Im jbjorndal on FA that has the same car as you.
-
i know its been a few posts, but (like always) arros advice is dead on. you should take your project in logical steps. first, get a motor and get the thing running. second, improve things like engine, suspension, and driver. third, (as arro stated) get used to the car your driving. get comfortable with it, go fast on the on-ramp to the interstate, find a twisty road, and feel out the car until its predictable. then start autocrossing, learn the car in a safe, but competitive environment. after that, you should be well prepared (and probably made a few connections) to get a cage and drift. THIS is the logical way to take your project. if you get impatient and skip steps, a year from now youll likely post 'i should have listened, arro!' just some friendly advice- oh, and as far as cages are concerned, when you get to that step, post again, i have much experience in both bolt-in and custom cages.
-
UPDATE**
no progress, went to the beach, and camped in my S12 for 3 days lol, went to VA beach warped tour,
the line up sucked this year, to many emo bands,
but
i started moving since i got back from the beach,
here is my new room
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1390.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1389.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1388.jpg)
this is going to be a perfect practice pad for me, having a nice garage like this will make everything very easy compared to my crammed spot before, i cant wait!
-
i found a KA24DE
but its too pricey i think
its from a motorsports facility in baltimore,
its an s14 with 90 grand on it, plus tranny, plus mounts, no harness
he wants like 700 though, plus gas. lol
still looking
-
i found a KA24DE
but its too pricey i think
its from a motorsports facility in baltimore,
its an s14 with 90 grand on it, plus tranny, plus mounts, no harness
he wants like 700 though, plus gas. lol
still looking
thats a terrible deal, finding a wiring harness and ecu will be hell without an engine attached to it....900 is too expensive, i paid that much for my ca18det
-
thats a terrible deal, finding a wiring harness and ecu will be hell without an engine attached to it....900 is too expensive, i paid that much for my ca18det
i know, ive been on the search, calling people, going to drift events. asking around.
i found a KA24E with a blown head gasket for 80 bux, but i want DOHC.
im looking. and looking. im in search of a SR swap shop, but there is NOYANUSA that i keep getting referred.
they close early, at like 5. so i always forget to call. i dunno, im being patient, because i have speeding tickets to pay. but yea, ive talked to so many people, and there like "i got my DOHC KA for like 2oo-300 bux, everything, then they did a simple rebuild. and BAM. why the hell cant it be that easy? it probally is, i just need to look harder. but yea. at least overall, i have some progress
you have to remember, im 17 years old. and before i got my first S12, i didnt know much about cars.
i have alot of learning to do. but because of this forum, and some friends, i think its still possible
-
patience is the key, i wondered if i would ever find a good ka, even debated buying a whole car to steal the motor, and one day on craigslist it was there. deals will show up. it just takes time. while your waiting, im sure theres plenty of 'busy work' ie body and interior, and reading on how car electrical works so you will be a step ahead when it comes to wiring your new motor....
-
patience is the key, i wondered if i would ever find a good ka, even debated buying a whole car to steal the motor, and one day on craigslist it was there. deals will show up. it just takes time. while your waiting, im sure theres plenty of 'busy work' ie body and interior, and reading on how car electrical works so you will be a step ahead when it comes to wiring your new motor....
i knowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww dammiittttttttt
screw the east coast
if D.C. where to get nuclear bombed with acids and were to get deathly poisend
i would be the only S12 owner to die
its so hard to wait but im doing my best, and looking
-
i knowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww dammiittttttttt
screw the east coast
if D.C. where to get nuclear bombed with acids and were to get deathly poisend
i would be the only S12 owner to die
its so hard to wait but im doing my best, and looking
lol, dude, you say this, and I just finished watching the Happening.....
-
lol, dude, you say this, and I just finished watching the Happening.....
that movie was a complete and utter letdown...fuck m night shamalan, hyes always gotta make it intellectual instead of just being fucking brutal...its just not my cup of tea...the happening isnt even elligible for a dvd rental for me...much less a dollar theatre revisit
-
that movie was a complete and utter letdown...fuck m night shamalan, hyes always gotta make it intellectual instead of just being fucking brutal...its just not my cup of tea...the happening isnt even elligible for a dvd rental for me...much less a dollar theatre revisit
i completely disagree. The movie was actually really good, interesting plot lines, and he went outside his usual style and didnt make it have a TWIEEEST ending.
Plus, I got it on .avi format, so I didnt pay anything to go see it, and will never have to do so.
-
Ok keeping it on-topic...
So David what are you going to do to the car this weekend?
-
Ok keeping it on-topic...
So David what are you going to do to the car this weekend?
Sorry Arro,
David, I want to see more pictures of your cars man, take more, im a picture whore.
-
Sorry Arro,
David, I want to see more pictures of your cars man, take more, im a picture whore.
haha alright, its nothing great yet, its all over the place.
i need a god damn KA
PICCCCSSSS
heres the new, very old house
sterling, got me S12 seat rails, the black box thingy, and my drivers side mirror. but the box is somewhere in america haha
-
Lookin great man. Ur garage is big even with the car in it. lol at that can on stock exhaust. Muffler shops can bend up a system for an ok price. KA is 2.4 so 2.25"? Mayb 2.5" there are calcs for that stuff online. If going KA-T at some point then just go 3" right away and be done with it. werd
-
Lookin great man. Ur garage is big even with the car in it. lol at that can on stock exhaust. Muffler shops can bend up a system for an ok price. KA is 2.4 so 2.25"? Mayb 2.5" there are calcs for that stuff online. If going KA-T at some point then just go 3" right away and be done with it. werd
i know right? its just me and my mom now, so i get to fill it! i gotta stay organized lmao
i was exactly on that track too, but thinking 2.5, because i will do all the basic mods i can do, 2.25 sounds reasonable also though, will look into it, but after i have an engine sitting in the car
how much would it cost, to have a straight pipe/weld that muffler on? all the way to the header?
my mom, brought up getting me a welder, so i can stop taking my car to the shops. ill save money after a few welds...
so.
in winter, my mom, and my dad/ who doesnt live with me, are gonna hook it up.
so i also, need to get schooled on welding somehow, maybe NOVA (comminity colledge) does welding classes. im very interested
-
With KA 3" is best
-
2.25, 2.5, 3.
everyone has to many opinions about EVERYTHING lol
-
Generally, 2.4 and bigger does better w/ 3". Most of those setups come stock with 2.25 or even 2.5.
I'm gonna stick with my 2.5" system for now, but that's mostly for budget reasons.
-
Heard from several sources that 3" is best with KA, even stock.
Thats awesome if you get a welder, so many doors opened up with one, things you can do that you never considered before.
Recommend going over that thread that Julie started about welders she was looking at, and take those thoughts into account. Might consider printing it out and showing your mom/dad.
PMd you regarding the stuff, we'll find it.
Careful with the basement not to unearth any bodies or anything. thats a HELLA OLD house
If you simply lay the carpet right over the dirt, unless its real dry there, you might have mold issues with the dampness, so keep that in mind. You should take pics of this place, it sounds cool.
-
Heard from several sources that 3" is best with KA, even stock.
Thats awesome if you get a welder, so many doors opened up with one, things you can do that you never considered before.
Recommend going over that thread that Julie started about welders she was looking at, and take those thoughts into account. Might consider printing it out and showing your mom/dad.
PMd you regarding the stuff, we'll find it.
Careful with the basement not to unearth any bodies or anything. thats a HELLA OLD house
If you simply lay the carpet right over the dirt, unless its real dry there, you might have mold issues with the dampness, so keep that in mind. You should take pics of this place, it sounds cool.
it dont have dirt floors!
its drit walls, lol
but yea, ill take some pics of it.
and lets hope we find that box!
i read julies thread, i reead it also, its one of the first threads i eevr read on this forum
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Oh, ok, I get ya.
Julie's thread has a lot of info, some of which will be more helpful when you actually go to look for one.
If you are interested in a particular model, you can start a thread or add it here, whatever, and we'll (or maybe just I lol) will give you our opinions on it based on your needs, level of skill atm, what you want eventually, etc.
Dirt floors aren't uncommon here in super old houses, but we don't have any that are THAT old, as my area wasn't settled until 1850+, and most of what was built back then burned down with regularity, so not much before 1900, actually.
-
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1418.jpg)
this is keeping my from my car
-
After you paint, you should fill the room with various GT-R posters, along with others
Its your 'meditation' room for fixing the car
-
its mothafuckin christmas!
haah the lost BOX,
finally made it to my house
MEOOOow!
1. the box,
2. the mysteriousblack headlight box
3. drivers side mirror (grey car)
4. is S12 seat rails
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1427.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1428.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1429.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1430.jpg)
now i can go finally buy seats, mount them, tuck the crapet, and the interior will be FINISHED
thanks sterling, you got me these at a great price i reccomend any bussiness with him
-
haha man, good to know...
The temp thing on the mirror is just a sticker, it should peel off.
HIGHLY recommend the Mazda MX3 seats I got, they were out of a V6, 93 model I think. Later ones came with a different design, not as supportive, but probably bolt in similarly.
-
haha man, good to know...
The temp thing on the mirror is just a sticker, it should peel off.
HIGHLY recommend the Mazda MX3 seats I got, they were out of a V6, 93 model I think. Later ones came with a different design, not as supportive, but probably bolt in similarly.
okay, ill look around, i dont even need my liscense for that, my friend always hits up the yards and takes me with him, looking for old german parts though
-
aside from the hatch, my other hatch is doing nicely, these cars make great daily drivers, and unique ones around here.
but yea, its in great shape
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/carsitting.jpg)
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After you paint, you should fill the room with various GT-R posters, along with others
Its your 'meditation' room for fixing the car
i did something like this in my garage, only its just a wall. i went through all my car mags and cut out pics of cars i liked, ideas i wanted to steal, products i wanted to buy, etc, and taped them up on the wall for inspiration. it reallly helps to visualize something you wanna do and apply it to the project.
-
You should take a pic.
-
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/juliebriggs/picture5168.jpg)
-
i've seen and still have just about every one of those pics, but mine are still in the magazines i got a stack thats too tall
-
Same here! lol
Very nice Julie, you need more now
OK
So DAVID
Still have license? did you have to buy off the judge? I can probably find you someone in Chi that can help you there haha
-
Same here! lol
Very nice Julie, you need more now
OK
So DAVID
Still have license? did you have to buy off the judge? I can probably find you someone in Chi that can help you there haha
i requested a NO CONTEST, on my plea, so the DMV would hopefully just restrict me for my 2 jobs
well, i ahve my liscense for now... but within a month it WILL, be gone, no question
eh,
could i drive a moped to work? on a restricted liscense..... in VA, you dont even need a liscense to drive one.... you just have to be 16 or something...
but since, i got my restricted... does that degrade me lower?
because, im about to buy a moped
-
Well,
I guess you'll find out, wont ya!
It could, change your status,
Actually, I would really find this out first, because if you got pulled over again while riding this thing w/o license and you need one, you could be in some pretty serious shit.
I've known people to lose their license until 21+, which I don't have to explain how much of a bitch that is.
Get friendly with co-workers, so you can get free rides
-
haha yea, i just want an excuse to get a moped.
i do have some friends and stuff, but not everyone is reliable.... i work everyday next week
-
Mopeds are tight. I burn for a scooter bad, but... haven't decided what I want yet.
That, and it takes money away from the S12 project.
-
Same here! lol
Very nice Julie, you need more now
i dont seen much that really inspires me to the point of wanting to steal ideas. seems like no one is really trying anymore. the last epic car i was was a EF civic hatchback with extremely rare jdm bits on it and work equip 01's under it. truly a impressive car
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This is true, I figured that when I saw what you had up there.
I had a picture of an awesome scooter. and now I cannot find. poop
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This is true, I figured that when I saw what you had up there.
I had a picture of an awesome scooter. and now I cannot find. poop
HONDA RUCKUS W/ PASSWORD JDM CARBON FIBER KIT (http://mayhem-chaos.net/photoblog/images/honda_ruckus.jpg) http://passwordjdm.com/category.aspx?SID=1...=380&Page=2 (http://passwordjdm.com/category.aspx?SID=1&Category_ID=380&Page=2)
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UPDATE****
FOR ALL OF YOU THAT TOLD ME MAKING YOUR OWN CARPET WAS IMPOSSSIBLE
i trimmed and tucked in jaidseye's carpet, which is NOT, OEM, but new, carpet.
shaped up the interior, tucked stuff back,
added sterlings seat rails, its all looking nice
also put the mirror on my other car, THANKS once again
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1446.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1445.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1444.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1447.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1449.jpg)
i just need to buy seats and stuff now, and vacumm
MY FIRST DRIFT EVENT, is happening on august 10th, ive already prepayed, and im using my GREY s12... im losing my liscense so what if it breaks, i want to have fun
im kinda excited, i need to get out there though,
ill post a thread about that the day after
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1443.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1441.jpg)
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Ok what kind of carpet is that? cut pile or loop? A close-up would be nice.
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Ok what kind of carpet is that? cut pile or loop? A close-up would be nice.
hmm, i really dont know what "cut pile" or "loop" is
im guessing... loop, is basically loops lmao
ill get a close up on it tomorrow for you
i hide the air tubes and stuff because im not using them... and it was too much to remove the tubes anyways, plus it looks cleaner
the carpet has that "unde capret carpet" pad thing glued to it too, its really nice +2537 for jaidseye
ill be able to have a decent 80's drift car, with a amazing interior, thats hard to find, and the lining and everything cleans REAL well, nice and smooth look, and i love the door panels, there so OG with the chrome trime haha
remember, i still gotta vacuum and wipe down
but basically EVERYTHING in the interior is , freshly died, or new
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air tubes?
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air tubes?
the floor vents that run down the tunnel down onto the floor pan, i took mine out too
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lol what he said
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where did you get such nice door panels thsat are not all beat up and torn???! sweet steal...
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where did you get such nice door panels thsat are not all beat up and torn???! sweet steal...
the prevoius owner gave them to me seperate from the car
its from OEM surplus, anyone got the link? jus google it, but its pricey and they dont have a unlimted stock
i love them, they have the fuzzy carpet on the bottom and the chrome trim its sweettt
just the right side, does have a small two splits, but eh what ev
old
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0965.jpg)
new
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0955.jpg)
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You want to hear something funny, when I pulled my old dirty carpet out, I could swear my air tubes were UNDERNEATH, not over the top of it.
Weird.
I think I'll pull mine.
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You want to hear something funny, when I pulled my old dirty carpet out, I could swear my air tubes were UNDERNEATH, not over the top of it.
Weird.
I think I'll pull mine.
hmm, well maybe they are? im not exactly sure...... i just figured lol, i never remove dthe old carpet
speaking of carpet FUCK i forgot to check the carpet if it was LOOP or what ev, lol
ell well, ill take a pic of it soon, its just not with me, its at the new house
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You want to hear something funny, when I pulled my old dirty carpet out, I could swear my air tubes were UNDERNEATH, not over the top of it.
Weird.
I think I'll pull mine.
i dont think he said they were on top of the carpet...
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what the hell is a air tube? lol
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NEVER MIND haha just forget it!
okay, im out to buy a clutch, and install it in my car this week (THE GREY ONE) but yea,
i have a 150 doller budget for this, including gas lol, so i will be tight on money, i might sell something i dunno
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UPDATE*** pictures..... of no S12 #2 but whatever, im kinda "building still" lol
well no actually, just getting ready for my first drift event, i feel like such a noob, but you have to start somewhere? cant wait to get picz
this is what i did, to my super drifto OEM car lol
1.i drilled a small hole through the e brake, and put a cut nail through it, and eletrical taped it, its not even noticable, but my e brake doesnt LOCK now, which is good
2. trans fluid changed
3. oil change, with mobil synthetic.... duhh.
4. cleaned car
5. added P steer fluid (mine leaks)
and YAY, i have a super drift car now
lol
PICZZZ
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oops posted twice
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Nice dude, basement looks like quite the pad lol Thats a nice place on the whole as well.
Good luck with your drift event! Don't stuff it into the wall
Your car is actually really clean, I'm super jealous...
no rust
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NICE!
Fuckin pad is pimp. Much humping to be done in that basement. Brown suede sex bag all set up an everything.
Pics of doriftang!! Have fun man. You will rock that shit.
S12 POWAR!!!
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sweet new house and love the basement except for the red walls but hey whattaya gonna do...lol
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hmm I rather like that color, livens up the area quite a bit. Makes the texture in the walls look interesting.
GL today!
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Good luck at the drift event today. I look forward to any pictures and curious to see how the s12 does. Yeah i like the red color too and the lovesac. We used to have the big one too when lived in SLC.
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any recommended plug wires?
i did get duralasts, but ive had one already fail
when i drive, my car will kinda slightly hesistate
then when i foor it alot, the car will cut, and jerk, but still blast through through rpms.
are these sign of plug wires?
i hate ignition problems.
ive already replaced WIRES, COILS, PLUGS, ROTOR, ROTOR CAP, so. im gonna guess its the cheap duralasts
from autozone/advanced autoparts, what are reliable and not too expensive
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I just tried ordering a set from Nissan, and the system kicked it out as no longer available.
I've seen these bright blue wires before on a couple CA20's, I think they were a good grade, but can't remember what exactly.
Go ahead David and start a thread in CA20 section asking about wires, and we'll collect some info and sticky it eventually. It might get noticed more there than in here, and I'm wondering the same thing myself...
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What kind of spark plugs are you using? And if you want some nice oem grade plug wires...NGK wires are the best oem replacements. These are probably what Sterling is talking about...bright blue.
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Thats probably it then. I wonder what parts store you get them from, more research needed now...
I thought they were just some ebay or cheap thing, with the color and all. Now I know I should have grabbed a set of the like 5 sets I've seen, lol
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UPDATE***
i have registerd for DRIFT NIRVANA
150 dollars and its an hour away
im so excited al;l i need is plug wires and tires. and i should be good!!!
this place has THREE tracks and a skid pad !!!!
pics and vids one it happens
next sunday
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Hope its your wires and nothing else man. Thats just a guesstimate, really. You've got a friend that can give you a ride back in case of an issue, right?? Don't know about your rpms when you're doing this, but eventually that 20year old ca20 might let loose its headgasket while you're on it hard, you never know...
but, forgetting that shit, good luck!
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i do have a ride back
if my rpms end up blowing a head gasket......... well ill get immidietly on my BLUE cars swap,
and if i ever complete that, then i will end up attempting it again with this car.
i am worried about blowing a gasket, but realize my CA20E really hasnt been pushed by anyone else other then me, my car was bone stock, no mods ever done to it and it sat a long while, the guy i bought it off of was my moms friend for many years
we will see what happens.
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Yeah, as long as you have somewhat of a backup plan, and some $ in the bank for a tow, you're probably fine. The ca's headgaskets tend to go as they get old, even if they weren't beat on.
Ever locate an engine for this project yet? or still on the lookout?
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im on the lookout
but NOTHING
i have guys that are like? your looking for a KA??? omg buy mine... i start talking, just to find out its a fucking singlecam
i want a DOHC engine. bottom line
like in the future, after this swap, and if i try it for my DD, then sure for single cam, but this blue S12, i want DOHC.
why the fuck do i have to pay over 700 bucks for a god damn ka? WHY. people pick them up for nothing on forums.... its pissing me off... im being patient... i am
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Yeah man, I'd wait for a dohc. Like you said, the sohc would be cool for dd, but to make good power, I'd be after a dohc.
Too bad you weren't closer, there are several local here, and I'm just unloading mine. shippings not really an option for me, as I can't really move them that way.
you'll find something eventually, plenty of other work to be done with that thing in the meantime
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**UPDATE***
search for tires
FUCK YEA yessssssss
first place i stopped by
was monroes brakes and mufflers, and service
i walked in casually.
i told the guy i drift, and i burn tires fast
and i said
do you have any?
he says, you can go out back and dish whatever ya want out as long as you dont make a mess of my tires
soooo... i went out back, and GOLDMINE!!!
i even found good treaded falkens! but sadly they were 16s....
i managed to fit 10 goodyears int he back of my hatch
there all in the range of
p185-60-15r
and p195-65-15r
except i grabbed a set of 205 somethings because they had good tread
AND i got my plug wires, i asked around a few local shops, and i went to CHAMPS again, and they had my NGKs suprisingly, for 45bux
PICZ, lol i was just happy so i took a bunch
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large collection of tires
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large collection of tires
do you happen to have enough wheels for all the tires???
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do you happen to have enough wheels for all the tires???
NO lol, i have 2 sets, and then the rear set on my car,
but whatever, i have a friend that will mount them for free, whats wrong with having too many tires??
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did the monroe guy give them to you for free?
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OMG dude, you got the HOOKUP right there!! cool. now, send them up in smoke
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did the monroe guy give them to you for free?
drifting isnt really popular in manassas, except we have our ODS drift meet here... im the only on on the forum that actually LIVES in manassas where the track is,
everyone here has FWD civis and integras... RWD isnt so popular, i see a 240 now and then but its just for show and no go.
yea they were free, the guy is kinda redneck, and plus i was coverd in oil and stuff so i guess thats the seal of approval!
UPDATE**
GOT them mounted..... FOR FREEEE!!!! yayyyy
here are some pic from the day
my blue s12 under the wheels
[/quote]
will doo!
check out my battery tie down!
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guhhhh sunday is so far away!
i already loaded some tools and tires into my hatc.
it just sitting. itching to boast its tremendous power of might! its nissan legacy soul carries the force of ten hurricanes and makes its prey tremble at sight! oh the power of this 85 whp Ca20e!
aND it fixed my jerking problem
lol at myself
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ive decided to take my black spray painted hood, and paint MEOW!
right on it, over the stupid black. then rockl it on my grey s12 for a minute
is that a bad ideA?
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Hell no! Just paint it nice- use tape- and it will elevate your baller status 15 points! lol
It took me a minute, then Yes! I saw it! haha you really should get an actual battery tiedown, lol
You should write more prose about the CA20E
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meow!
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excited for sunday!
found abattery bolt down, at the zone
4 bux
everyone should just do it. you dont even like need tools, maybe a pair of pliers
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look at da spider webs
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1583.jpg)
god i wanna drive this car so bad. ive never driven it
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1585.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1591.jpg)
heres my Z while my liscense is gone.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1590.jpg)
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/different.jpg)
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last pic = win
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+1! that pic is awesome!
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last pic = win
that was when i picked up my DMV letter saying my liscense is going for a year whopoop dee
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At least you didn't lose it until your 21, as thats the way its done here. It will give you time to work on the car
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that was when i picked up my DMV letter saying my liscense is going for a year whopoop dee
haha yea. ill be pickin up parts on the moped
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Rock a big backpack
any luck with seats?
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ahhh so lazy.
what the hell does a MX3 even look like? and how could i notice it if its wrecked
i guess google can answer this
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they're bubbly little turds, just look abouts on the net for some pics. I think my seats were out of a V6 model, so those are probably better, but the floorpans should all be the same.
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I don't remember which of your two had the leak in the center, but I noticed this by chance whilst working on my beastie.
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_1075.jpg)
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_1146.jpg)
On the firewall, immediately behind the motor,more or less. This is where the ridge is that seals together the parts of the firewall (there are actually three layers of metal at the outside joint there, you can only see two from up top)
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_1076.jpg)
so thats like directly underneath the metal tag.
Unfortunately, you would have to take all the dash and HVAC stuff out to see this part.
But you can test it from the outside of the car by lightly spraying water along that seam to see if you have any leaks.
It may be hard to see up in there with the hood on tho.
checkz it iout
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thanks so much, i will try light first, in the garage with the lights off. just so i dont have to spray wata everywhur
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Problem is tho, there likely won't be a complete hole, rather the seam will just be perforated enough to allow moisture thru but not light. You can try the light thing, but the leak would have to be fairly major to see light thru. If you take off the plastic grates over this area and look down with a light and mirror you may be able to see something.
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ohh okay ill spray some waterz
UPDATE******
Next Two Events
Oct. 12
(http://www.slidewaysonline.com/images/Fliers/Oct12DoomsDayF.gif)
and the next is at summit raceway... on like 0ct. 25th or 28th
redid my other side rotor/studs
i kept stripping brand new studs? i got so pissed... went to sleep... and went to buy something to change my life
i abesuloutly fucking love this tool it makes life 2000 million times easier!!! im gonna go buy a smaller one soon to..
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1652.jpg)
dapd app
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1653.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1657.jpg)
cant wait to watch them rust!!
hey autobody buddies....
how do i get this dent out?
i tried a little banging.... but its actually making small dents and its not popping out..
any suggestions...?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1662.jpg)
and i got more free tirezzzz yayyyy
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1665.jpg)
i feel good today
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Nice man, more free tires
On that dent, you might want to ask Joe (shift_love) who is pro bodyman, he might have some good advice on how to deal with that.
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UPDATE**
well i am impatient again
i am drifting sept. 28th also
dude its like crack
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Nice man, more free tires
On that dent, you might want to ask Joe (shift_love) who is pro bodyman, he might have some good advice on how to deal with that.
uhhh my names greg not joe lol...and body work is stupic hard...i guess i shouldve made a write up when i fixd my dent and did my bumper...but its messy work and i didnt feel like holding a camera and getting resin all over it...ps what you said is my new sig lol
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LOL sterling actually was wrong for once!
regardless, i cant just pop it out some how?
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silvia_love is the bodyman, its pretty easy to get you guys mixed up, lol
Joe=silvia_love=bodyman haha
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uh huh, tryng cover for yourself eh?
where do i get those mag style nuts?!?!?!
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lol
I would imagine the parts stores would have something that would work, if you need one as an example I think I have one laying about I can send you.
I'll mention it to the dealer contact I have as well, to see if oem ones are still available.
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silvia_love is the bodyman, its pretty easy to get you guys mixed up, lol
Joe=silvia_love=bodyman haha
awww...now im sad cause im not a pro body man anymore...that made me so happy that you said that...now im sad...thanx sterling...even after that bumper that i custom made am i not still a pro???
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oh dude, that shit is definitely pro style for sure, but as in I meant Joe works in a body shop and is taking classes/professional training in body repair. what you're working on is pretty damn good tho, hella better than I could pull off!
I was looking more at the seam at the top of the firewall above the trans, those pics that i took, I don't think its rust actually. I think what that is there is the rubbery yellow seam sealer burning off, because it exhibits the same characteristics as the stuff elsewhere that I've lit on fire. I'm beginning to think that its actually just burned brownish over the years as a result of the engine heat directly on the other side of the firewall. The EGR tube comes rather close to it....
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FOUDN THE MAG NUTS AT NAPA
thell be in tomorrow
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im NUTZ
i LOVE nuts
god, i am so hungry for salty nuts
one time, my bro just went NUTS from eating salty nuts, and then he nuts, right on his gf when she went to sleep
oh, and i bought sum nutz
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1685.jpg)
fuck dude now im broke again haha
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UPDATE***
anyways,
i tried to patch the power steering line, eres my turn out so far
TIRES
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1717.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1718.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1719.jpg)
meoowww
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1706.jpg)
all ready for next sunday
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painting! my hood!
meow
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1720.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1721.jpg)
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haha david, the metal tape idea FTMFW.
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haha david, the metal tape idea FTMFW.
ITS WATER PROOF AND HEAT RESISTANT. it says you can even tape under water..
first its pipe thread lock, thats heat resistant,
then its waterproof tape thats heat resistant,
then i have a layer of metal tape (not shown)
that is probally heat resistant, then the two thingys
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and the pressure is still going to bleed thru it all
BUT
it won't be squirting all over the place, which is good. You really need to sink some bucks in getting another one, tho, eventually
looking good tho!
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and the pressure is still going to bleed thru it all
BUT
it won't be squirting all over the place, which is good. You really need to sink some bucks in getting another one, tho, eventually
looking good tho!
i know but you gotta understand i cant do it till i get free time between school/work drift
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LOL! Love the hood!
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UPDATE**
well i drove on my messed up rim today after mounting a new tire, it seems fine so far..
ill just mount it on track and leave it on track to be safe
got more tires mounted, added the new fresh nuts,
FINISHED MY FIRST WELD EVER
and BOY, do i suck!! i dont know what the fuck to do guys!
my first weld is solid, air tight, but my second keeps leaking, its hard to fill in the little dips
dont mind the random metal hanging, ill cut that soon
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1728.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1727.jpg)
? i tried haha
(the weld is black because i painted it for protection)
heres my old exaust, (im in the backround too) haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/DSC_574.jpg)
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shit dude, its not the worst welding job in the world, hell the "professional" welding job I had done on my 350 dollar exhaust system looks like fucking ass.
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Ur not the only one that sucks as welding. I fabbed my charge pipe today and damn I suck balzak @ welding. Whatever gets the job done though. Good shit
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Yeah I don't think you need to worry about your welding skills. Me and my friend spent time fixing all the welds that a muffler shop did before I bought the car. There is globs of metal on some parts that I have no idea what they were trying to accomplish and there was still a hole in the side of the glob that we had to re weld and patch. Oh well, as easy as the exhaust was to weld I think im going to fab up a full 2.5 inch exhaust this weekend. Pictures for sure will be there for all to see my beginner welder skills
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hmm well i still have a few holes in my second weld,
the problem is is that the first weld i did outside of the car... now welding under the car, next to the rotor and the rear suspension is jutst so damn hard to get too
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No worries man, it takes time to get used to. Welding under the car like that is a bitch, and it rarely looks super nice, and I've done enough of it, lol. As long as it holds, you can fill in the little divots and holes with sealer available for mufflers/pipes, etc., from your local parts store.
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No worries man, it takes time to get used to. Welding under the car like that is a bitch, and it rarely looks super nice, and I've done enough of it, lol. As long as it holds, you can fill in the little divots and holes with sealer available for mufflers/pipes, etc., from your local parts store.
agreed, thats what the muffler shop did on their shit welds on my exhaust.
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No worries man, it takes time to get used to. Welding under the car like that is a bitch, and it rarely looks super nice, and I've done enough of it, lol. As long as it holds, you can fill in the little divots and holes with sealer available for mufflers/pipes, etc., from your local parts store.
WHERE THE HELL DO I GET THAT?!?!
or could i use jb weld?
and is welding near the gas tank bad?>
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JB weld wont hold up to the heat
And how close?
-
oh. and, pretty close
SUMMIT POINT IN 8 HOURS
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grey car has welded diff now, if anyone didnt know lol
OMG guess what, driftnirvana.com states that i got a 80 from my previous 61
that means i got better!
and 3rd place for the "joes" aka amature was 85, which john with a black s14 got
wowo
drifting! next sunday, old dominion speedway here in manassas, just registerd
(http://www.slidewaysonline.com/images/Fliers/Oct12DoomsDayF.gif)
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okay well i kinda cleaned the car,
i dont feel like getting all the mud and dirt off.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1762.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1763.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1764.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1765.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1766.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1767.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1768.jpg)
excited for next sunday
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nice job on the fender man, that came out pretty good.
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nice job on the fender man, that came out pretty good.
its alright i could have done better but getting the fender on is harder because the bumper is a lil bent too but what ev,
if you notice it i painted where the paint chipped off silver because im lazy and i just dont want it to rust
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TODAY I DRIFT THE DAY AWAY,
I THROW TIRES INTO SMOKE
AS I FLY INTO THE HORIZON
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TODAY I DRIFT THE DAY AWAY,
I THROW TIRES INTO SMOKE
AS I FLY INTO THE HORIZON
how come you never have any pictures from your drift events??? i wish we had events in texas ever damn
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lol i have a thread for each event, with a FUCKload of media
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yeah, you should link them here, so they don't get lost, and anyone who reads thru this can check them out...
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yeah, you should link them here, so they don't get lost, and anyone who reads thru this can check them out...
great idea,
ill also put them on the FIRST post. to reference too
Drift 4
October 12th 2008 Old Dominion Speedway
http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?s...c=23935&hl= (http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=23935&hl=)
Drift 3
September 28th 2008 Summit Point Raceway
http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?s...c=23731&hl= (http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=23731&hl=)
Drift 2
August 24th 2008 Summit Point Raceway
http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?s...c=23179&hl= (http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=23179&hl=)
Drift 1
August 10th 2008 Old Dominion Speedway
http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?s...c=22982&hl= (http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=22982&hl=)
HOLY SHIT, my CA20E has lasted 4 drift events!
and summit point is 80 miles away btw.
old dominion is only 3 though
-
tottally set for next event
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you son of a bitch!
haha
Some of those are still in really good shape!!
its nice that you have room to store them all, thats a huge bonus..
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UPDATE**
nothing new just bored
i forget which car this thread is about lol
heres my ricer MOPED
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1799-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1800-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1801-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1808-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1803-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1810-1.jpg)
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i was wondering the same thing, lol
damn, that 84 is niiice. it will be such a sweet car when its all back together. DARK BLUE FTW!
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1815.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1814.jpg)
free rims and tires!
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i miss my car not having dents
but it was so worth it
haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0813-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0814.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0818.jpg)
DRIFT IN T MINUS 2 DAYS!
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yeah, its still pretty clean tho.
nice pics!
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yeah, its still pretty clean tho.
nice pics!
thanks those are from right after i painted the steelies
here is my car TODAY, lol im too lazy to wash, sorry about the dirt, i kinda like the dirt you know?
and with the dirt/reflection and leaves and shit you cant even notice the dents kinda!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/fall.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/fall2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/fall3.jpg)
and there is her cargo (haha rusty steelie, ill get to that with some grill paint)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/fall4.jpg)
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some boredom and a few filters and brushes later
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/fallfinished.jpg)
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ever plan on gutting the rear hatch area? might have more room for tiressss
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ever plan on gutting the rear hatch area? might have more room for tiressss
eh.
you must realize im real lazy, id have no place to put the rear interior, and at the end of the day i can fold my carpet back and have a full car so if i got pulled over it doesnt look so bad haha
AND
ony m blue hatch,
i found this under the clusters
WHY WHY WHY? is the harness cut and labeld?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1871.jpg)
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damn dude, thats kinda whack. I'm wondering if perhaps that car didn't have a digidash at one time, and someone spliced on the analog dash plugs, that would be not an easy job, but I can't think of any other reason. If its not broken tho, I wouldn't mess with it. Certainly jaidedeye might know something, seeing as he would have had the dash out to dye it I imagine.
my interior, is stored in the dump. lol
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i dont know but im kind of ticked off he could have told me. ughh there just crimped not solderd and will most likley come apart at the wrong imte. then ill have to figure out which on it is
is that a easy replacement or is that part of the main harness?
the digicluster, not the backround, but the forground is painted silver, like the clock in my interior, i never noticed though but he has deff been back there cuz her pulled the dash.
if he went from digital to analog, or whoever, that means there is a possibility of more milage, or less on my chassis?
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You would have to replace the entire dash harness, which is a standalone harness separate from the chassis harness. If you pull the dash out, it would be something that you have to remove from the back of the dash when its facing down, its all woven in the dash itself. I'll have pics of mine up in my build thread real soon. Not very difficult tho. I'm just concerned that the chassis harness on a digidash car is different from a analog car, but I doubt it. Dash harnesses aren't all that hard to come by, so I wouldn't worry about it, really.
noticed you added more, so I'll follow suit.
if the dash has been changed, and the cluster has been swapped with one from a different car, who knows what the MI would be. the only real thing to do at that point would be to run a carfax report on it and see what it came up with, you may get an idea, maybe not.
you are talking about it being painted, you do or don't have the digicluster in the 84 car? because it would be SUPER weird if it was digidash and had a speedo cable running up there, that would be messed up.
did you ever get the title for that car?
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well im deffinetly going to replace it if i see any problems whatsoever.
jaidseye pulled the dash so i doubt he ziptied them back hopefully not or used some impossible way to make it hard to replace
another Q
when i accidently pulled out the wrong piece of harness in the engine bay (those little box thingys) after i took out the engine
i might have put one in wrong places?
when i turn on my lights its all wack and disconfigured and shittt
my headlights wont pop up and down either
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yeah, you'll have no problem removing the wiring out of the back of the dash if it came to that, its pretty simple, you couldn't lock it in there that tight.
I don't really remember that far back, but if you disconnected relays, they are all colored, and the colored top parts match the bases. The headlight sensor I sent you plugs into a connector right by the fusible link box in front of the battery, so not much there. All the grounds still good? everything else still connected? all fuses good?
what exactly do the lights do? did the popups go up and down before?
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yeah, you'll have no problem removing the wiring out of the back of the dash if it came to that, its pretty simple, you couldn't lock it in there that tight.
I don't really remember that far back, but if you disconnected relays, they are all colored, and the colored top parts match the bases. The headlight sensor I sent you plugs into a connector right by the fusible link box in front of the battery, so not much there. All the grounds still good? everything else still connected? all fuses good?
what exactly do the lights do? did the popups go up and down before?
i cant remember it was far back too, the engine might have been in.
but before everything worked 100percent fine, and i had talking lady and pop up lights
ill take a video of me pressing the qwitches next time i hook up a battery
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well man this is the first time i have seen this thread and DAMN!!!
is all i can say i am poud to be wanting an s12 so i am purchasing an se V6 but man i am thinking about the whole KA swap too
but good luck and thats a nice ass garage
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haha thanks,
yea this "build" thread gets way off task from my blue s12, and its more of a god damn blog diary haha.
someday my KA swap will finish all within one page i bet, like page 63 haha
thanks, i love the garage, i just need to clean it noww!
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well, i paid my friend 24 dollars and i told him i want my flow master and to bend out the side,
a previous friend gave me a 90 degree angle pipe,
stopped by the junk yard and got some rubber hanger things
and BAM
there i go
it sound decent, im uploading a sound byte right now
i put my hand over the end of the pipe at cold startup NO LEAKS. no EXUAST LEAKS AT ALL! holy shit weehoo waawaaaweewwaaaab
and my friend hit a mail box point blank today driving my car, on the same fender poor fucking fender.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1875.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1876.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1877.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1878.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1879.jpg)
it works. thats all that matters to me
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http://vimeo.com/2113645 (http://vimeo.com/2113645)
exaust note
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i want an engine noww
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wow, hung properly and everything. thats a great way of doing it!
only thing, you might want to extend it out further so it goes to the edge of the body down low, this might lessen the reverberation in the car (noise/hum inside when you're driving) if its an issue at all.
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wow, hung properly and everything. thats a great way of doing it!
only thing, you might want to extend it out further so it goes to the edge of the body down low, this might lessen the reverberation in the car (noise/hum inside when you're driving) if its an issue at all.
David, you might also wanna watch out, if that cat is actually a cat, and not a gutted one, it might burn out the insides of the muffler, as the cat creates a LOT of heat.
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wow, hung properly and everything. thats a great way of doing it!
only thing, you might want to extend it out further so it goes to the edge of the body down low, this might lessen the reverberation in the car (noise/hum inside when you're driving) if its an issue at all.
i know right something done almost right on my car!
it took us a HOUR to do it.
he somehow WELDED the pipe as it was hanged and hooked up, no leaks? awesomeness. he didnt even have a welding mask, just one of those pieces of flat plastic that has that tint plastic in it
oh btw thats the same guy that welded my diff
im probally gonna weld a extension on myself when i get a hold of my friends welder again, that should be cake for me.
id rather deal with the humming and not throw a flag out to po pos
David, you might also wanna watch out, if that cat is actually a cat, and not a gutted one, it might burn out the insides of the muffler, as the cat creates a LOT of heat.
alot of heat from my 85 whp s12? and so be it, ill ruin a pos flowmaster lying around my garage. as long as it KINDA lookslegal.
the best a 30 dollar job can do compared to NOT having a muffler
UPDATE.
so since my friend hit that mail box in a junkyard parking lot somehow.
my fender dented in just as bad as before, actually worse. because it was weak from last time.
i once again. banged it back out (i had him remove the fender) and pay for my welds
put it all together,
it looks worse. and there are scrapes. i bet i could get some out. and the white paint off but im lazy.
im gonna take a pic and post it
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eh. i just cant beleive he hit a mailbox in a p lot. im sick of banging this fender outt
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1881.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1882.jpg)
this is why i cut my exaust
where it broke off it was blowing on my half shaft,
making it get hot and turn black
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1883.jpg)
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http://vimeo.com/2113645 (http://vimeo.com/2113645)
exaust note
Sounds pretty good actually... not obnoxious, but healthy.
David, you might also wanna watch out, if that cat is actually a cat, and not a gutted one, it might burn out the insides of the muffler, as the cat creates a LOT of heat.
Nah he doesn't have anything to worry about, the interior design of a flowmaster doesn't use material, it just uses steel baffles:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41B857RN9SL._SS500_.jpg)
For anyone curious...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/flowmastertechnology.jpg)
I thought this Flowmaster was kinda neat looking:
Super 44
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/arrospeed/0803tr_34_z50_new_partsflowmaster_s.jpg)
I'm not sure I'd want anything other than a straight through for a turbo application, but for NA a flowmaster is probably fine.
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yea i think ill live.
no turbo for me anytime soon.
that black diamond plate muffler looks way crazy!
flowmaster is cheap. and doesnt have a high pitch rice can noise to it. plus its not a 3 inch can so it fits under the car. i had to bang the heat shield/floor panel under the seat a little bit from the bottom so it wouldnt rattle but its not noticable i wonder what it sounds like WITHOUT the cat converter lol
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Sounds FAAAARKING nice!! Nothin wrong with a Flow. Sounds great David.
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Sounds FAAAARKING nice!! Nothin wrong with a Flow. Sounds great David.
thanks, this saturday if everything stays ont he car, i should be able to get some footage of the exuast on LOAD at my LAST DRIFT EvENT THIS SEASON
god dammit nooooooo. i get all this strees throughout the weeks and after i drift it doesnt matter and i feel relived. its like a ridiculous crack addiction. i tinker around with my car and go around town looking for tires and all this shit and i get so excited. but no more for awhile. ill be saving money. money saving. lots of money saving, to afford my new power plant
and i have to NOT total my car at ODS, because NOW i have to DD it to work this winter on my restricted liscense
oh did i mention that this is the LAST slideways event ever? meaning that old dominion speedway will NEVER ever EVER have drift events anymore, the guy that runs it has his own car ready now and is throwing in the towel, and our contracts are up anyways
so instead of drivint 3 miles to ODS ill have to drive to summit point, or fartehr for other places
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Sounds FAAAARKING nice!! Nothin wrong with a Flow. Sounds great David.
Well as long as you're NA... I'd never use something like that on a turbocharged engine, because the turbine wheel essentially muffles much of the noise, and now the only purpose those baffles serve is to restrict flow. You know what they say, the best turbo exhaust is a wide open one.
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Well as long as you're NA... I'd never use something like that on a turbocharged engine, because the turbine wheel essentially muffles much of the noise, and now the only purpose those baffles serve is to restrict flow. You know what they say, the best turbo exhaust is a wide open one.
well on my blue s12 i wanted to fabricate a fake cat and just run a straight pipe with the HKS 3 inch muffler, i think the inlet is 2.5
on a KA i was gonna go with a 2.5 inch pipe all the way to fake cat to 3 inch HKS that i have
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fake cat, does your state require smogging?
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corky is gonna be 25 years old, so no emissions, and i get to rock the black and white antique tag (for show use)
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0977-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_0980-1.jpg)
!!! god dammit im too excited!!
this winter, my promise, is to get this car running with any engine i dont care just not a ca20e
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Good luck with Corky I miss seeing her around and she was a pain but fun to drive
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Good luck with Corky I miss seeing her around and she was a pain but fun to drive
yea dude i have yet to drive the car ughh
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its ok in due time my friend in due time I have yet to drive my car since the early part of this year and it was not a fun exprience at all Im currently stripping and stitch welding and it is a long proccess might get off my ass this weekend and work on it if the weather is permitting but then again who knows
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i just need to get a engine inside the bay... then i can just feel like im going somewhere. most of this "build" is just me gaining track time lol
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corky is gonna be 25 years old, so no emissions, and i get to rock the black and white antique tag (for show use)
Lucky you... in California, it's not how many years old the car is. We have a cutoff year, 1979 build year is the last year that can get away without smogging. After that, it has to be smogged. Doesn't matter if it's the year 2008 or the year 2028.
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Lucky you... in California, it's not how many years old the car is. We have a cutoff year, 1979 build year is the last year that can get away without smogging. After that, it has to be smogged. Doesn't matter if it's the year 2008 or the year 2028.
lol fuck that. VA police are gay but over here in virginia, and even better in west virginia which is very close to me we get some breaks
im gonna get the black and white antique blacks for "weekend" show vists for this s12
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started to clean the garage
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1922.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1923.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1929.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1930.jpg)
im being lazy and slow, but its progress, soon ill have room for both s12s again
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/3028101284_9fa5e03cff_o.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/3020327313_7877e2936a_b.jpg)
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Here you go man, looks pretty good!@
http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?s...1975&st=320 (http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=21975&st=320)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1933.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1935.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1936.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1939.jpg)
interior finished! now all i need is a better steering wheel[/QUOTE
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flashy SE wheel. 10 bucks (http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1951.jpg)
and seat a beltas! 10 bucks!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1948.jpg)
I WANT AN ENGINE DAMMIT
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1947.jpg)
check out my flush-ness, i need a whole foot drop lmao
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1945.jpg)
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THE GARAGE IS OMG. HAS TWO S12's IN IT
thansk to sid for helping
and oh, got 6 more tires today
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1987.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1989.jpg)
just a few more touch ups sometime and it will be aawesome
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sweet! your car has seats again... you can sit in it and make engine noises! its a motivation thing haha
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sweet! your car has seats again... you can sit in it and make engine noises! its a motivation thing haha
haha yes it is
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2003.jpg)
5 bucks.... trying to bend it back to normal from the damage before it.
looking for the rest of the kit
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wheel looks nice man
DRFT FENDERLESS FTW!!
ha
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WD 40 bigshot is the bomb
im trying to make my tranny. well, look like a tranny
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2023.jpg)
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you can buy WD40 in a gallon size too btw. It does indeed work great for degreasing, just be sure to use some regular soap or something to remove the oily film left from the WD. dish detergent works good
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you can buy WD40 in a gallon size too btw. It does indeed work great for degreasing, just be sure to use some regular soap or something to remove the oily film left from the WD. dish detergent works good
yea we sell the gallons at work but the bigshot is so cool
KA24E NUMBER 2
40 bucks
130K
needs
E manifold,
working injectors,
maybe some other small stuff
going to pick up a 8 pm and back by 11 ish its around an hour away
YEAAA WOHOO IMA PICK UP ALL THE SOHC KA's ON THE EAST COAST
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what about wiring or computer?
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what about wiring or computer?
yeap mim going to be searching for a wiring harness because this one doesn thave one or a ECU
he has his friends but wants 60 bucks for the harness for some reason....id rather hunt the junkyards for the right year harness
full list of what i need to complete swap/running engine
all ka24e parts
1. Alternator
2. Clutch/Flywheel
3. Starter
4. injectors
5. exaust manifold
anyone have those for cheap lemme know! im sure the list will go up once i pick it up
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oh i need a shifter and a MAF also, and maybe a pilot bearing
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2042.jpg)
filling the shed up with engines i say!
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got more tires
found 3 of these!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2050.jpg)
I IS TIRE KING
I OWN ALL TEH DRIFT TIREZ
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2051.jpg)
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hmm. having all this stuff makes me feel like i might actually complete my swap, but i dunno. all i gotta do is progress. one thing at a time
i have a deadline of a month to get this car running because im moving again and i dont wanna tow the car, its just ethics. this car shall not be towed no mo
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2060.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2061.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2062.jpg)
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moving AGAIN? NOOO! what about the pimp room in the basement and the pimp garage?? I hope the new place is just as good, and the landlord doesn't mind you working in there. that could be a problem...
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you are one messy fella.
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moving AGAIN? NOOO! what about the pimp room in the basement and the pimp garage?? I hope the new place is just as good, and the landlord doesn't mind you working in there. that could be a problem...
i know! its bullshit, gay renters. thats 4 hourses in one year and 3 months, all with 2 car garages XD im spoiled.
but i do nothing but focus on the cras now, and my mom is the best. she has been hooking me up and the only places we move too are ones with garages now. but were gonna get a 2 year lease on this house at least...
plus i get to re organize
and yea im gonna miss the pimp basement, and shit but this next one is bigger, etc. i cant paint it (its a real house)
but i learned woodwork(hotub) and i got skills in painting my room/ basement, which is priceless
this next house a deep garage though, deeper then the one i have, and its in areal nieghborhood. its the biggest house ive lived in, im gonna take pics this week
you are one messy fella.
i AM!
but thats after a engine teardown, and this other one getting in. its hard for me to stay clean XD
im drifting saturday! wish me luck
summit point made a new course called TSP
triple skid pad, is like 2 football fields long!! and it just has been finished paving 2 weeks ago, as we speak there sanding it etc.
(http://joomla.nccbmwcca.org/usermedia/images/summit_point_tsp.jpg)
were using that triple skid pad, and the jefferson course (to the right)
75 bux! to test it out
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UPDATE
okay
i removed the weird metal bracket from the end of S12 DRIVESHAFT, using a hammer and alot of patience lol,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2075.jpg)
here is my new s13 driveshaft piece without it,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2076.jpg)
i take that connecting bracket off the s12 driveshaft, and put it onto the S13 driveshaft,
WHICH,
will now let me connect the LONG s12 driveshaft that goes to the differential,
and the short s13 piece to the transmission!!
BUT
new issue
i need a tap and die set dammit
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2078.jpg)
s13 driveshaft thread needs to be retaped, i really dont feel like pulling a driveshaft from the yard so im gonna take it to a local shop and see how much it will cost for them 2 tap it, shouldnt be much
DOHC alternator? will it work?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2079.jpg)
well it bolts up fine,
but i had to lift up the engine on an engine lift to get to the pullys,
i also too the torque convertor off by flipping the engine upside down and dropping the oil pan, no metal flakes, etc. looks cleanso far
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2085.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2086.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2081.jpg)
no i gotta figure out how the s13 transmission mount bolts up to my car,
ill probally edit my s12's mounts together somehow, and use a series of washers, etc.
how the fuck do i flip my engine back over lmao
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after alot of thinking of how to undo the lift, to the stand
btw i borrowed a stand lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2094.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2095.jpg)
ghetto? lol
at least i can get around the engine more, and stuffs
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issue
people keep telling my a KA24E power steering pump is on the passengers side....
maybe im dumb, but i feel like mine is on the drivers side.... umm is it possible to swap alternator/power steering pump placment??????!?!?!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2098.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2097.jpg)
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not too sure what you are talking about man.
the large aluminum compressor on the right side of that pic is for the A/C. Remove it if you don't plan on running air conditioning, and don't forget to take off the heavy ass bracket. its the one with the bolts on either side of the holes, thats a good indication of A/C.
the power steering pump is the thing located on the far top by the intake mani and valve cover, the outermost belt is running to it. This is on the passenger side of the engine... the alternator is the belt directly underneath of it.
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not too sure what you are talking about man.
the large aluminum compressor on the right side of that pic is for the A/C. Remove it if you don't plan on running air conditioning, and don't forget to take off the heavy ass bracket. its the one with the bolts on either side of the holes, thats a good indication of A/C.
the power steering pump is the thing located on the far top by the intake mani and valve cover, the outermost belt is running to it. This is on the passenger side of the engine... the alternator is the belt directly underneath of it.
i know i got it after like 3 seconds just i cant edit my posts lol
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UPDATE,
i got the stupid ass motor mounts off god these things were annoying, by the time i got to the second one i got the hang of it though, you use a flex head wrench, and a 17" socket, its one bolt
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2107.jpg)
and i got these from paul, ill be bolting them in asap
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2110.jpg)
QUESTION
is there a specific way i bolt in the s13 mounts? it looks like the bolt can slide up and down, do i posistion them all the way down? or up? or in the middle? how will i know that the engine will line up.... i dont want to have to tighten the mounts with the engine on it? ah, what ev, i dont have the right nut for them anyways so i gotta go somewhere and buy them
okay so i removed that AC bullshit, ill sell the compresser it looks kinda newish anyone want to buyy?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2112.jpg)
QUESTION
can i remove the whole pully thingy, and just leave the bolts in so they dont get clogged, in case i want ac someday?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2115.jpg)
started to clean up the rack alittle bit, and around the bay with wd40 and a toothbrush
steering wheel seat ftw, thanx asparagus,i remember this from your build
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2108.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2109.jpg)
bahh bahhh, well i need a fuckload of parts still, like a clutch, flywheel, and shit, so i can get the engine and tranny together, then i can plop it in, and get started with wireing, and then hookup the driveshaft and go!!
YEA
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very nice, very nice.
I would just get the motor mounts in, leave them slightly loose so they can move up and down some, and then tighten down after the motor is in and you have the chance to locate the motor and mounts together. if that makes sense.
I would leave the bolts out of the motor. Less chance of them coming loose, and you can quite easily clean out the holes with a rag and brake clean or whatever if you ever decided to utilize them, rather unlikely tho.
Make sure when you get the wiring/ecu you know WHAT YEAR they came from, that will help with the conversion.
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very nice, very nice.
I would just get the motor mounts in, leave them slightly loose so they can move up and down some, and then tighten down after the motor is in and you have the chance to locate the motor and mounts together. if that makes sense.
I would leave the bolts out of the motor. Less chance of them coming loose, and you can quite easily clean out the holes with a rag and brake clean or whatever if you ever decided to utilize them, rather unlikely tho.
Make sure when you get the wiring/ecu you know WHAT YEAR they came from, that will help with the conversion.
does the year matter? i think i ahve a 89 ka.... damn im not sure anymore since i had two ka's.
is there anyway to tell what year ka it is
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I'm talking about the WIRING and ECU man, thats whats important. I doubt the motors differ much at all, but the info is definitely needed for the wiring and ecu.
you should probably know the year of your motors for parts ordering, but again I doubt much is different. There is a serial on them somewhere I believe, you might want to find it, dunno if it references with anything tho.
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i get that off the vin right? passenger side i belive on teh firewallz
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no, if you are talking about the motor's info, there should be a serial number somewhere on the block. maybe. and it may or may not reference with anything.... check it out.
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89 ka had higher compression than 90's. i also believe the 90 ka has the hiatachi(spelling) dist cap, where the 89 has the mistu one.
the wiring is basically the same for both years. 91 is where changes happened.
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89 ka had higher compression than 90's. i also believe the 90 ka has the hiatachi(spelling) dist cap, where the 89 has the mistu one.
the wiring is basically the same for both years. 91 is where changes happened.
so is there a better wire harness i should get? theres like 12 240's there 2 choose from
went to the junkyard with 19 bux
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2122.jpg)
19 bucks
getting a gasket orderd and slapping this sucker on asap
clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing, and the engine is READY, to go in!
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update*
exuast manifold on, even though i need the damn gasket, ill do it later
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2125.jpg)
its looking more like an engine!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2128.jpg)
painted the inside of fenders,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2132.jpg)
and sanded, and painted over missing paint, slight surface rust spots in bay
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2133.jpg)
ahhh lets play a game!
answer the ?'s
WHATS MISSING?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2136.jpg)
WHATS MISSING?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2137.jpg)
DOES THIS LOOK ALL RIGHT SO FAR?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2138.jpg)
WHAT DOES THIS DO, CAN I PLUG IT? OR SHOULD I FIGURE OUT A WAY TO HOOK IT UP
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2139.jpg)
mmn sexy car
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2135.jpg)
so, christmas is coming which means MULA, money. and ill be spending alot of it on this swap, ive been planning ahed for most of this, and ive gotten a huge list here on my computer of everything i need to by, and things i need to get at the yard
whats holding me back is that stripped driveshaft thread that needs tapping, a clutch, and a harness basically, the big 3
-
First "what's missing"... not sure, but the second "what's missing" picture is the throttle position sensor.
-
That first "missing" pic... You're missing the oil pump!
Edit:
Or not?
That's where the Z engines have it... Now I gotta find the FSM and find out for sure.
Edit #2:
No, that's gotta be the oil pump.
(http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8017f243.gif)
Can't think of anything else it could be.
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oo i have a spare one lol from the other engine
-
im going to the pawn shop to get some other stuff too.
im pretty familiar with air tools, my moms ex fiance used to have them (broken up now)
-
okay christmas is over, back to reality.
trying to get this transmission sorted out, three issues, but ive always known about these before i got the s12
DRIVESHAFT-SOLVED
TRANSMISSION WELL-HAS TO BE CUT
trying to figure out about that tonight without ripping out my interior XD, i just have to cut it, so the shifter will fit through,
but i have no shifter to test right now, thats why im using a tranny. ILL GET A SHIFTER AT THE YARD! i forgot about that lol
TRANSMISSION MOUNT- NEEDS TO BE MODDEd
im going to take my old ca20e tranny mount to someone that can weld, ill cut it up with my new air tools
and have them weld it to my new trans mount from paul, then it should be BOLT in
using my guns of steel, my huge biceps. like donnies, lol. one piece of wood after another, i pyramid my ass up there
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2146.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2147.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2148.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2149.jpg)
how hard would it be to instal the engine ONTO the tranny with the tranny already fastened in??
-
update, started grinding and grinding, looks like no welding will need to occur
CA20E MOUNT
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2151.jpg)
well i ripped the ca20e mount off the transmission, then tore everything off it down to the base,
KA24E MOUNT - some aftermarket one right? or is this stock?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2150.jpg)
i did the same with the ka24 mount
obviously the poly mount wont fit correctly,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2152.jpg)
so what i do is i grind the shit out of my mount all the way down FLAT for the poly mount
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2153.jpg)
SO,
then
i use washers, or metal plates, to shimmey it to whatever height i prefer, too keep it level
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2155.jpg)
first, i need a drill to drill holes for the poly mount 2 fit though
BAH, anyone with a s12 that gets one shall be able to read this build for a simple KA swap
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haha thanks guys, thats what keeps me going, these forums
UPDATE, lol its been a long christmas for me, but im done for the day
its in! only held in by 2 longer bolts, i need washers, legit bolts, other shit etc.
the transmission isnt bolted to the mount, its resting on it, but i slide two bolts without nuts to make sure it fits right (dont have nuts)
but it fucking works! sort some shit out! and im good
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2158.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2159.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2160.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2161.jpg)
look at how low the transmission is, i can fabricate some metal plates, to go between the tranny and the mount, to raise it higher
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2162.jpg)
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awesome man.good progress.wish i had a garage to use all my tools in.damn home owners association wont let us spit on the ground without paying some fine for it.i think the trans sitting that low will give the shifter a better look.shouldnt effect performance or anything.
-
update
remounted the trans, i think its stable now, still held up with two bolts, but with washers this time,
i bought bolts for the tranny to mount so it should be all good and fine
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2166.jpg)
cut transmission well, kinda, gonna cut sum more
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2167.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2168.jpg)
painted valve cover blue,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2163.jpg)
prepping driveshaft for paint
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2164.jpg)
seems to line up towards the diff, im still sketchy about it, but we shall find out. first i need to make sure the driveshaft will fit
and i still need a clutch!
to be continued!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2170.jpg)
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junkyard run! junkyard fun!
spent around 90 bux
got WIRE HARNESS, ECU, NEW DRIVESHAFT, SHIFTER, SHIFT BOOT, eltric box thingy that im missing
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2183.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2184.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2185.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2186.jpg)
and omg,
thanks zack (camaro, for referring me to the beamer with the momo seat)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2187.jpg)
40 bux!
now my cars gonna be a REAL race car lol
also got lots o bolts
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update
STAND BEHOLD, DRIVETRAIN COMPLETE!
just two more bolts, engine mounts lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2188.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2189.jpg)
still gotta tinker around alittle bit, stuff isnt fully bolted on etc
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lookin good, tranny doesnt seem that low
id also recommend putting the engine and tranny in together as one
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lookin good, tranny doesnt seem that low
id also recommend putting the engine and tranny in together as one
eh im gonna bolt the engine to the trans, i dont feel like taking it apart
UPDATE
stripped down the beautiful blue drivers seat but used the frame to get zack to weld the momo seat into it
after some hammering, welding, and driving LOL. it now sits, perfect!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2195.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2199.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2196.jpg)
40 dollar junkyard seat FTW!
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started wiring, to figure out whats going where
0#
does something go here? at either of the holes above the throttle body?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2203.jpg)
1#
are these two connections gonna come from the engine harness or the s12?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2204.jpg)
2#
where does this go! i cant find its home
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2202.jpg)
3#
are these vac lines? where do they go?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2208.jpg)
4#
did the connecter piece break off? is this where its supposed to go? i can get that at the yard if so
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2209.jpg)
5#
WTF is this!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2211.jpg)
okay and now i must figure out what i do with this part of the harness, the part that is inside the car,
because my old ECU is on the drivers side, and this is from the pass side
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2212.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2213.jpg)
mmnn
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2214.jpg)
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lookin good. I'll comment more later.
0. looks like unused ports on the TB, if you look carefully, they are probably blocked off, ie the don't go anywhere. carryovers from who knows what.
1. Those two connections are from the S12 chassis harness. IIRC this is going in the 84, which has the 'T' style alternator plug, so there will be some simple modding, but no big deal. I think Jeff on his SOHC transferred the S12 oil pressure sending unit (the other plug) onto the KA, in which case the OEM S12 wiring hooks right up. A swap to a S13 connector couldn't be too hard, dunno if the signal is different, its not critical for the car running but good to monitor/gauges.
2. Not as familiar with the sohc harness, but 1)check all your fuel injectors and 2) check all the solenoids for the vacuum butterfly system and 3) any idle junk that may be located in the back of the intake mani.
3. Of those three vac lines, one is likely just to be a source to the intake tubing, one is likely to go to the charcoal canister, and if one is particularly larger than the others it might also go to the charcoal canister, but the look the same....? I'll hold on definite until someone else confirms.
4. This looks like the coolant temp sensor for the gauge, which would normally have a metal tab coming out of it that broke. I'd grab a new one or jyard one, up to you.
5. Looks like the connector for the o2 sensor!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2213.jpg)
This pic is gold. I don't know what the closeup connector is as its too fuzzy, but the THREE connectors in the BACKGROUND are what you will NEED to interface to the S12 chassis. this information will come soon.
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OHHHHHH i got the top part figured out
i had one of the injecter clips on the wrong thing, i disconnected it, and used the shortest one etc. till i had one spare, which i plugged into a clip not shown
okay update
is it called the clutch slave? or whatever, that seems to hook up fine
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2218.jpg)
and also, with the lower harness of the s12, it hooks up, no problems with connecters
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2217.jpg)
BUT
i have no connecter for this
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2220.jpg)
and this
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2221.jpg)
and wtf is this?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2219.jpg)
in the backround is what its connected too,
and where does my speedo cable go??
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2222.jpg)
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allright....
the speedo. S13's use the digital sending unit, which is what is in the end of the trans that you took a pic of the connector with the unit in the background. What you will need is the part that goes into an S12 trans to replace that assly SO THAT your current speedo cable has something to connect to. This receiving end can be from a B or C trans.
Clutch slave looks fine. You'll very likely need to bleed the system real good to get a pedal, and don't be surprised if the slave doesn't go bad, sometimes they do when they get extended when disassembled.
The trans wiring connections. What you aren't used to seeing is the 4th and 5th gear sensors that are on a S13 trans- they are OK to leave disconnected, BUT you will want to have the other two- the neutral safety switch and the reverse sensor- connected. I *THINK* you've got the one with the round connector right, but the other square one I think needs to go to the sensor at the END of the transmission, one of the ones you have pic'd that isn't connected. Notice there is some slack in the wiring, I don't think that is normal. WHAT YOU REALLY NEED TO DO is verify that with the S13 FSM, then you will know for sure, as the book will tell you what sensors are what, then you can compare to the S12 FSM you have lying about, and match them up.
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okay i understand what you mean about the speedometer cable, ill swap the lil housing piece or whatever so the cable plugs in
but the gears are different, so i should swap the s13 gear on the s12 housing, then into tranny
BLUE IS S12
AND RED is S13
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2227.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2228.jpg)
i cant get this pin off!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2229.jpg)
how do i get that pin out??! its annoying
QUESTION
can i use the s13 eltronic housing tranny speedo thing , and hook up a aftermarket speedo in my gray car???
and, am i going to fuck with either of these
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i stuck it in without swapping the gears and it worked fine actually. hmm will i be fine like this (if someone already answers this remember im psot previewd)
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The S12 gear can't be taken off, it's molded onto the shaft. You'll have to get a new one.
Is that an automatic? It's way narrow compared to my old C trans speedo gear.
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nah its manual it seems to work fine....
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Looks cool. That seat is pretty nice. I need to make friends with a welder so I can make custom brackets.
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Looks cool. That seat is pretty nice. I need to make friends with a welder so I can make custom brackets.
we barley welded, i used a hammer to make one piece level, the rest of the seat was made with drilling holes to bolt in, the brackets came off the seat, just to long pieces of metal, ill take it apart and take pics
barley any welding was dones, just to get the seat welded on, and reienforcments
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mmmn i love spending money...
whats this box for? is this going to be used with the KA harness? hmm..
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2232.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2224.jpg)
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we barley welded, i used a hammer to make one piece level, the rest of the seat was made with drilling holes to bolt in, the brackets came off the seat, just to long pieces of metal, ill take it apart and take pics
barley any welding was dones, just to get the seat welded on, and reienforcments
Oh, ok. I haven't messed with seat brackets much, doesn't sound like too much trouble though.
-
I think you've got the captions mixed on your pics there, but if you are talking about the black box tucked on the pass side there that is the Time Control Unit, which is part of the S12 chassis harness. It controls things like wiper intermittent feature, interior lights, etc and does not interact with the engine harness, so just leave it there.
-
Time Control Unit
(http://www.gearlog.com/images/11242.jpg)
-
I checked, and those were discontinued from Nissan.
-
lol, ahh i need t understand how the SOHC wirings gonna work. i wanna get this DoNe
i got power steering lines frome a SOHC 240 today,,,
-
blah blah sorting this stupid power steering shit up
i relocated (well kinda not done yet) the power steering resivor to the passneger side, and installed the s13 SOHC power steering lines, boy these things are greasy and annoying!
it kinda looks Ohkay does it? i gotta tinker some more
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2237.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2234.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2236.jpg)
heres my crappy JB welding skills lol (first time) (http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2240.jpg)
and... BLUE
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2244.jpg)
lots of blue stuff on my car
mnn this engine bay is so close to bearing an engine, yet so far....
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2239.jpg)
-
how much HP does paint give you?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2246.jpg)
-
woah! everyone dont freak out and flood my thread with comments lol
i got some ghetto 25 dollar rims again
14"
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/0106091420.jpg)
picking up clutch TONIGHT
and getting parts from nissan TOMOWWOROW
-
no internet latley, im in the process of moving
update!
engine in,
-
Dang the project is looking good!
Think itll be running by the move out day?
-
Are those outlaw rims? Looks tuff with them!
-
You need to give me a lesson on finding random ass wheels, haha.
Looking good though. Good progress.
-
Hey, you know that paint on the exhaust manifold isn't going to last, right?
-
you should get a p/s cooler
-
alright im moved, haah still no internet im at school right onow, at work or tonight ill upload some pics
i forgot the starter and some other stuff while the engine was out but ill get it sorted
the engine was sitting very very high, but i realized on the pas side i had the engine sitting on the wrong bolt,
then i cut the support out but still it now doesnt clear by a half inch,
looks like ill be using washers on the wood for that tilted look
pics later! if i find a computer without a liscense lol, this school one has the stupid pic blocks
-
I IS MOVED. again...
PIX!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2260.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2261.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2262.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2264.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2265.jpg)
someone tell me i need to get lower
lol
okay the engine almost fits under the hood, after i bolt the mounts down, and tilt the hood some more with some washers i should be Oh kay
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2266.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2267.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2268.jpg)
mmn, i need trans bolts, the trans is attached with one bolt, and i need the starter bolts too.
-
Drop that ish son, do it NOWWWW
haha
blue hatch. love it. wheels lookn good too!
I don't see why you should have clearance issues with the hood. Are you all the way fastened down with proper motor mounts?
Look in the S13 fsm. I *think* in the S12 FSM there are actual dimensions- the length and the thread pitch- for the engine->trans bolts, S13 FSM might have the same info.
no garage at the new place?? this is not good.... I see an overhang or something tho...
-
i have a full two car garage, il take pics soon, and that drop in is just more area fits like 2 s12s
i need help with wiring!
i stil dont have internets i should get it TOmOroOWO
-
i have a full two car garage, il take pics soon, and that drop in is just more area fits like 2 s12s
i need help with wiring!
i stil dont have internets i should get it TOmOroOWO
+ a hot tub in the tree's. Can't complain about that either:) looks like a pretty sweet place.
-
guess how sick i am of moving that 800 pound (yea 800 pounds with no water) hottub.
this is my fourth house in around a year
since i joined club-s12 in april its my 3rd tim moving the blue hatch on trailer, 3 different garages lol
its a sweet place i like it, i think were done moving between a 5 mile radius in manassas virginia.
ill take pics of the garage and house when my internet is back, hopefully tonight
WRITEUP ON MK1 TO KA E SWAP WIREING PLEASE
update***
i put some oil in the engine... and it didnt leak out overnight! wohoo lol
-
screw... verizon.... i want internet back
-
dude, get rid of the power steering. And I'll be the one-- Lower that **** car!!! LOL
looks really good, the SE lip is nice.
-
im not losing the power steering lol
i got my starter bolts from nissan, and the rest of the trans bolts
WIRING
WTF AM I WIRING
help lol
-
woah everyone chill out dont blow up my thread....
i bought a 4 point sparco harness pics up soon
-
your wiring info is up in the ka section. do me a favor, if you have questions about it, ask them here, and I'll mod the sticky as necessary. I want to keep it clean.
-
its gonna take a while 4 me to respond becuase i dun have internet. the house has dial tone supposbly today so im gonna try when i get home but i doubt it
-
fule filter in, fuel lines hooked up, coolant lines finished, radiaitor in
collected s13 HKS rear coilovers, and s13 spindles and hubs for the front also.
now i need to more front coilovers
-
David, check that thread you started on the S13 rear coilover thing, I found some good usable info for ya.
HOTNESS!
pics!
-
i checked it out,l hes coming SATURDAY to help me out ill update afterwards
still no internet guy is coming tomorrow to fix that HOPEFULLY
i painted my 14 inch rims i got for 25 bux a piece, camer out nice, but i need to redo it due to wrong primer, the primer i used doesnt seem to stick as well, i want it more durable, but looks sexy
cell fone pic
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/0127090013.jpg)
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i checked it out,l hes coming SATURDAY to help me out ill update afterwards
still no internet guy is coming tomorrow to fix that HOPEFULLY
i painted my 14 inch rims i got for 25 bux a piece, camer out nice, but i need to redo it due to wrong primer, the primer i used doesnt seem to stick as well, i want it more durable, but looks sexy
cell fone pic
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/0127090013.jpg)
Those are looking pretty sweet. When you redo them make sure you get the paint down into the hole's. Maybe it's just the picture but it looks like it is just the face and not in the tight place's.
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okay engine turns over ECU seems to be working fuel pump is temp. hard wired
everything works except for ignition, getting no spark
i need to figure out howthe spark works
the way the car is hooked up right now is temp, just to see if it starts
hmm i cant figure it out
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did you go by my wiring diagram?
did you use the S13 coil? You need to retain ALL the S13 stuff.
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why do i need a s13 coil? there both SOHC nissan engines, hehe
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i dont give a shit were gonna make them work. 100 bux for two
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2304.jpg)
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Nice. Where did you find those?? And what car are they originally for???
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my buddy, for s13. 100 bux is a good price, there not blow either, i got them cheap because he got them for 100 dollars, just because he found a good deal, but he drives a camaro, and offered them too me, hes gonna help me do whatever to get them in, im probally gonna order adjustable perches
seperate spring from coil, then ill be able to swap springs around like coilovers right?
whats a good price for two adjustable perches? linky?
i got the ignition shit sorted out, i need to hit the yard. it should work once i get a clip to convert for the ignition
i have a s13 sohc harness, with a s13 dohc ignition coil, so the ignitor wont hook up cuz it has a diff clp i think
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im going to be hard wiring my eletric fan, fuel pump, fog lights that im getting.
oops. theres a hole in one of my tool boxes
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/6838/1002309od8.jpg)
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7741/1002307fz8.jpg)
+ 5 horses
i think im gonna ditch the previous owners silver camo and just go black
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R-E-D-N-E-C-K-B-A-L-L-E-R-S-T-A-T-U-S
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This thread is a total win! Just goes to show not all builds/swaps have to break the bank...unless you make it that way. I hope theres vids after this beast is roadworthy, I want to c it! Nice job yo
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This is great!!! great build ,great car!!! congratulations!!!
that car is going to be a monster!!
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thanks! its not gonna be a monster, haha, it will be decent
trying to get ignition, still.....
i wired up my fan and fuel pump to that switch board i made, its cool i like it. i feel like im in control of the car haha, im gonna hardwire everythingggg i can now. jk
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2nt9qpe.jpg)
(http://i43.tinypic.com/28sas74.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2s9ydkz.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/30abay0.jpg)
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This thread is a total win! Just goes to show not all builds/swaps have to break the bank...unless you make it that way. I hope theres vids after this beast is roadworthy, I want to c it! Nice job yo
agreed!
my total cost spent
400 on car
40 engine
40 transmission
40 momo seat
100 junkyard missing parts
150 autozone, for ALL fluids, and some jb weld
eh and some other stuff
ive roughly spent 800-1000 dollars within the 9 months ive like had the car, step by step
its not really the money that matters its the learning process i keep getting
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Looks good. I like the switchboard idea. Reminds me of Mad-Max. Take off the hatch and put some oil drums back there and you'll be far beyond thunderdome.
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actually i will be making the hatch able to bolt on and off,
by removing the pivot assembly and those hatch struts and drilling holes
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sweet.i did my switch panel in the same place.except im utilizing my ziptie fab skills.lol.
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actually i will be making the hatch able to bolt on and off,
by removing the pivot assembly and those hatch struts and drilling holes
That's a good idea. Next time I'm up in NoVa I'd like to come check out your progress if you don't mind.
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i discussed it in some thread previously
yea dude your welcome over anytime, you know where i live
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i discussed it in some thread previously
yea dude your welcome over anytime, you know where i live
Cool man. Don't wanna seem like a "creepy old man." Jk, I'm only a few years older than you.
I definitely wanna get a better look at what you've done before I even attempt doing a motor swap myself.
I wouldn't mind checking out a drift event either, just out of curiosity. Maybe I can come try in my turbo Z31. I've never been into drifting, but I figure it could be fun and I should give it a chance.
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drifting is pricey.but worth it.
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hey since my hatch isnt exactly running yet
ive decided to get my score in on feb. 22nd with my stock welded diff s12 (gray one)
you can either drift there on the huge ass TSP course for 75 bux
or do all courses and place in the first round for 150 dollars
its in west VA about 50 min from my house
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im drifting the gray car again on the 22nd. i cant let it pass lol i wanna drift so bad
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2331.jpg)
i redrilled the momo seat, so now i sit good with he steering wheel, and i put it in the gray car, so i can use it at the event
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2330.jpg)
oh and home made
made out of strong ass gas tube
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2333.jpg)
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nevar! i am on a budget
plus it doesnt look so hot, i just heated it up with my kero heater and hammered it down lol, my dad gave me the pipe for free
but, i talked to my friend zack, i have this wooden dolley thing on wheels, that is about the size of a door
and my friend zack is gonna help me weld a small closet out of sheet metal, and im buying a 50 dollar oven from habitat for humanity, and a powder coating set online
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nevar! i am on a budget
plus it doesnt look so hot, i just heated it up with my kero heater and hammered it down lol, my dad gave me the pipe for free
but, i talked to my friend zack, i have this wooden dolley thing on wheels, that is about the size of a door
and my friend zack is gonna help me weld a small closet out of sheet metal, and im buying a 50 dollar oven from habitat for humanity, and a powder coating set online
Nice. That would be sweet to have a little powder coating booth. You could make some nice money on the side.
I just picked up some 17 inch 350z wheels for my Z and I'm contemplating having them powdercoated black to go with the black trim on my car.
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you should try the 75 dollar TSP course at summit point on the 22nd
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you should try the 75 dollar TSP course at summit point on the 22nd
22nd is my Aunt's birthday so I'll be spending the day with my family. Maybe the next go around though. Sounds fun.
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2335.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2337.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2338.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2339.jpg)
mmn ready 2 drift
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snap some pics of that cupholder yo.
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You should powdercoat it...haha.
I DID THAT IN MY COUPE ALSO BROTHER NICE!
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you can feel the difference with that in there?i need to buy some flat steel.
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you can feel the difference with that in there?i need to buy some flat steel.
its mainly for my harness, for my sparco belt
and the cupholder is ghetto, see the angle it sits at lol. it used to be level but like the zip ties became too far pulled in so i need to retie it.
holds drank fairly well
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for sure.so lets say my rear suspension is like 40 inches wide.if i were to cut my holes in the steel im buying a quarter inch more inward at,lets say at 39 and a 1/4,would that stiffent the rear up?even what you have has got to help a little bit.
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i dont know
its kinda pricey gas tube from home depot i think, but my dad had a spare pole. its super stiff, i mean its a heavy pole. it took me over an hour to hammer down the ends after heating them up
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You know that "brace" isn't bracing anything, right? Shocks only go up and down, they don't get any side load.
If you really want it to do something, take it out and save some weight!
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blah blah edit*
read before you post
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if it really doesnt brace anything then why do they sell rear strut tower bars?
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Cuz the cars they sell em for have rear struts
we dont
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...do you mean coilovers?or do solid axle cars only have springs or something?
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His is a shock tower bar
Youre thinking of strut tower bars
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just to clarify this for anyone who hasn't seen it.
The bar is for his harness...thats more or less it.
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You know that "brace" isn't bracing anything, right? Shocks only go up and down, they don't get any side load.
you would think so, and you would be wrong.
if it really doesnt brace anything then why do they sell rear strut tower bars?
cause people will buy them. people will buy anything.
His is a shock tower bar
Youre thinking of strut tower bars
same difference.
just to clarify this for anyone who hasn't seen it.
The bar is for his harness...thats more or less it.
i would not want that being anywhere nere my car, let alone relying on it for a safety device.
dave, you've been doing good so far, dont start doing hacker ass shit like that. give that back to your dad and have someone make you a proper harness bar or get a simple 4 point rollbar put in which will be even better.
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dave, you've been doing good so far, dont start doing hacker ass shit like that. give that back to your dad and have someone make you a proper harness bar or get a simple 4 point rollbar put in which will be even better.
agreed, i had to point that that was what he was using it for though, since a few other people seemed to not see.
you'd be better off grinding down spots in the car and welding round tubing to the pillar behind the door, about right below the window area. though i suppose then you run the risk of that one bar bending into a V shape in the case of a side collision and V'ing itself right through you....though that could be an issue with the current bar too....
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okay then i guess ill be figureing out another way
can someone explain why that bar bolted to my strut towers are not good enough?
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(http://www.lokarmotorsports.com/images/harnessbar_app_web.jpg)
Here's a "proper" harness bar. I don't see any real problems with yours for now, since you're building this on a budget. It does look like it might be kind of far back from the seat, but I've never used a racing harness, so I really don't know how much of a difference it would make.
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okay then i guess ill be figureing out another way
can someone explain why that bar bolted to my strut towers are not good enough?
Because if you use it for a harness bar and if you front-end crash, it's going to pop those 8MM shock studs right clean off and you'll go flying through the windshield.
You'd even be better off using the rear seat belt bolt in areas, those are at least designed for seat belt stress. Though then you'd run a risk of a compressed spine, because the shoulder straps will pull down on your shoulders when your body moves forward.
And yea, I didn't read and see that you want to use it for a harness bar, but if I were a tech inspector, I would never let that pass, it's just a dumb idea.
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okay well we can weld a sepereate pipe that goes to the perches by the strut tower, thats connected to the frame rail
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good idea, get your welder friend to make it structurally sound. your idea was good, but the execution lacked. remember that safety items MUST be safe!
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my garage is a SR whore
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2359.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2360.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2362.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2363.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2364.jpg)
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Cool
Tell them they are lame..
Alum rads with clutch fans
lol
They can afford baller ass SRs and alum rads but an electric fan is just too much ha
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i can buy cigarettes and porno and lottery tickets today
Cool
Tell them they are lame..
Alum rads with clutch fans
lol
They can afford baller ass SRs and alum rads but an electric fan is just too much ha
lol i might join them, also in the garage
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2354.jpg)
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i can buy cigarettes and porno and lottery tickets today
it dont get any better than that
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woah, car washed for the first time in like 7 months
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/3-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/4.jpg)
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Lookin good David!
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pop that dent foo
easy-peezy
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looks really good.those wheels are b-b-b-bad.
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god damn. slide it, and make us proud man!
looks great!
tell your friends to hook me up with an sr. i've got 25 bucks.
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god damn. slide it, and make us proud man!
looks great!
tell your friends to hook me up with an sr. i've got 25 bucks.
Me too. I'll double sterlings offer and make it 50!!!
It look's good. For sure remove the dent. It looks like a pretty easy one to get rid of.
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that dent? you mean those dents!
day time damage pictures
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2420.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2421.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2422.jpg)
im getting sick of this car not starting, i have not driven this car ever. EVER. i really need someone to please come help me, someone with SOHC ka knowledge. i am slowly slipping away from this bullshit
:banghead:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2423.jpg)
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You're doing good man!
Just think, a year ago you didn't no anything about this car, and look how much you've gotten done
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ive gotten nothing done until i get the car at 130 hp running first
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Oh. I guess I need to pay better attention! I was thinking if this dent.... Not all those dents covering the whole side of your car! That aint gonna be fun if you were to fix them.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/1.jpg)
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okay not getting too much progress on the gray hatch i basically malleted out the bigger dents but most of those smaller dents even if i do mallet them out the pop out periodicly as im working somewhere else off the car
got rid of some pointless material in the rear, ill be eventually taking everything off the car i dont really care much anymore lol door panels etc.
i might leave the back seat though, because i travel with people alot in the car
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2454.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2455.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2456.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2458.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2459.jpg)
yes i did brush on exterior house paint. its flat so when it dries it will look flatter its still wet
i dunno why but the damaged body is growing on me, as long as i dont have HUGE ass dents and the fact i have a whole nother clean car just makes it scream to do some upcoming rally events
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2460.jpg)
so fast... lol
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LOL, dude i keep that knife in my toolbox i bring to events
and ANYONE that sees that always mentions it, or if its on the floor of my car in a pic when i was using it everyone mentions it! why!
stainless steel knife with aluminum base = win
even has a compass and storage compartment
i cut the carpet with it
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LOL, dude i keep that knife in my toolbox i bring to events
and ANYONE that sees that always mentions it, or if its on the floor of my car in a pic when i was using it everyone mentions it! why!
stainless steel knife with aluminum base = win
even has a compass and storage compartment
i cut the carpet with it
Nice. I just thought it was funny. It seems like quite the knife for cutting the carpet Whatever works, Right?
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okay i guess i had the spark plugs wrong, sid redid them, and now when i turn the engine over it is so close, i can like feel it catching like it sounds so much smoother as its turning over,
i do get backfire but very less often, its more of the car going clug clug clug in a good way
then i tried starting fluid, and had a backfire out the intake, and had to put the fire out lol
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did you try starting it with starter fluid?
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yes, that was my last post lol
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Have you thought of welding a bar in between the strut towers for a harness bar? Can we use S13 harness bars?
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yea see where the clip, for the rear seats are, i figure that perch would be strong enough, around that area, to just have my friend weld something it
id like 2 gget the car started first though lol
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if you got flames coming out of your intake, your timing is too far advanced. i noticed in your picture, your maf is like 3 inches away from the throttle body. NO GOOD. it needs at LEAST 18 inches. that could be your problem. make sure your fuel lines are correct.
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it needs at LEAST 18 inches.
Giggity giggity goo.
Good luck David! the force is with you
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im not sure if anyone cares about this sohc build
BUT
i told my friend who is pretty good with cars if he can help me get it started ill throw him 50 bucks.
so tomorrow is d day this car is going to make progress or start i am eager to drive this car
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if you got flames coming out of your intake, your timing is too far advanced. i noticed in your picture, your maf is like 3 inches away from the throttle body. NO GOOD. it needs at LEAST 18 inches. that could be your problem. make sure your fuel lines are correct.
Nope, it would still run.
The distance for the MAF is just to reduce turbulance that might affect the MAF reading, which only will cause odd idling or minor power surges.
I use to run my MAF right off the TB, never had a problem. Even if it were, it would still at least start, which it would even with out a MAF.
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Nope, it would still run.
The distance for the MAF is just to reduce turbulance that might affect the MAF reading, which only will cause odd idling or minor power surges.
I use to run my MAF right off the TB, never had a problem. Even if it were, it would still at least start, which it would even with out a MAF.
indeed. before i had piping for my car i ran it right off the manifold, instead of the intake to the turbo charger. its ran, but idle kind of wacko. and was kinda laggy when you gave it gas. but thats with a turbo car as well.
and w00t to gettin it running. nothings better than hearing your car run for the first time
did you ever figure out if your dizzy is out 180 degrees? usually if theres fire coming out of your intake, you got valves opening at the wrong time or spark at the wrong time.
im not real familiar with the KA engine so im not much help lol
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corky fired up, but will only stay on under the throttle, having more ig. timing off or some vacum lines missing or something will get figured out soon!
once the engine is running by itself its basically ready 2 go
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corky fired up, but will only stay on under the throttle, having more ig. timing off or some vacum lines missing or something will get figured out soon!
once the engine is running by itself its basically ready 2 go
sickness!
wont run at all under idle? check for like a mad vacuum leak, and if your maf sensor is still gangster rigged right onto the manifold, that could be it as well. try unplugging it and see if it runs at idle, if so, thats your problem.
whatd you do to get it running?!
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sickness!
wont run at all under idle? check for like a mad vacuum leak, and if your maf sensor is still gangster rigged right onto the manifold, that could be it as well. try unplugging it and see if it runs at idle, if so, thats your problem.
whatd you do to get it running?!
the maf sensor is still gangster rigged but i need to get a stock intake
we rotated the spark plug wires or something i cant remember i had some people come over and help me
list of things to do
1. get car idling
2.bolt motor mounts down all the way
3.find bolts that will work for the motor to bolt to the mounts
4.stop transmission fluid leak, im leaking from the cable driven speedo sensor, for now ill just use the stock E sensor
5. wire up more sensors, get the tach working. all that etc.
6. weld diff
7. get insurance, and get historic plates
8.drift this weekend! of not, ill skip this event and go next month
ill take pictures of what i have going on brb
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Congrats. That's sweet. Good to hear it's up and runnin.
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2630.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2631.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2632.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2633.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2635.jpg)
missing alot of wires i bet, any usefull tips of which goes where would help thanks!
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last pic is where the s13 body harness plugs in.. youll find you coolant wire and start signal wire there.
plug next to the maf sensor is the IAT(intake air tempeture) sensor plug.
probably should be something plugged in where the tape is covering by the intake mani in that pic. dunno what tho.
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Dang. That's a killer snorkel of a MAF you got there
Oh. and it looks like your missin a exhaust manifold nut... Incase you didn't see it
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last pic is where the s13 body harness plugs in.. youll find you coolant wire and start signal wire there.
plug next to the maf sensor is the IAT(intake air tempeture) sensor plug.
probably should be something plugged in where the tape is covering by the intake mani in that pic. dunno what tho.
where does the IAT sensor go?
and i have the start signal hooked up, but i havent yet the coolant wire
Dang. That's a killer snorkel of a MAF you got there
Oh. and it looks like your missin a exhaust manifold nut... Incase you didn't see it
haha yea i know i am missing a bolt on the mani. ill get sone soon
the snorkel is temp lol
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haha yea i know i am missing a bolt on the mani. ill get sone soon
the snorkel is temp lol
haha, just makin sure you knew I kinda figured the snorkel was temp, but it looks pretty funny.
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what is taped in blue tape isnt that go to my brake booster? i was gonna get some line tomorrow
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yeah, it is, and man, that might be exactly where your problem is coming from, im not sure though, I know most engines dont run right with the brake booster line taken off.
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SO you got the KA in this car, what are you going to do with the SR?
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SO you got the KA in this car, what are you going to do with the SR?
He is selling it to me for $150, riight?
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SO you got the KA in this car, what are you going to do with the SR?
im gonna get rid of it. maybe rebuild one day if i dont get rid of it
SR is alot of money and time. right now this 40 dollar KA is gonna get me through a few events then il think of another pwoer plant later
i mean i basically got the wiring and trans moutn done so i can even go DOHC if i want
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David, from what i understand, the KA to SR will be mostly drop in, you really should get the KA running, then start building the SR and drop it in.
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2633.jpg)
my dist cap is completely set-up different. first it looks like your dist. cap is upside down. unbolt it and flip it. next your wires are out of order.
this is with your cap left alone
your wire #3 should be wire #1
your wire#1 should be #2
your wire 4 should be 3
wire 2 should be 4
this is with the cap left alone.
im uploading a pic of mine for you to see.
heres my set-up
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/coastals12/s12runningagain.jpg)
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David, from what i understand, the KA to SR will be mostly drop in, you really should get the KA running, then start building the SR and drop it in.
Bingo! KA and SR swaps are the same amount of work, other than intercooler piping, but that's not hard and has to be done on any turbo engine.
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the dizzy cap wont fit upside down
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what if the alt isnt hooked up would that keep it from staying on at idle
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It doesn't matter if the thing is pointing upward or downward, as long as the wires are in the right place and in the good order...
you have the right firing order 1-3-4-2, but if you are not firing the cylinder at TDC on the comp stroke, it will not run right at all.... you could try swaping the wire's position while keeping the good firing order like someone else here pointed out. Try out bottom right corner 1, top right 3, top left 4, bottom left 2 and if that doesn't cut it, try 180 off, top left 1, bottom left 3, bottom right 4, top right 2...
Or if you want to be sure, put your crank pulley right to your TDC mark and pull the distributor cap, the rotor should point your #1 spark plug wire, follow the sequence 1-3-4-2 and your will be sure
Tom
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the dizzy cap wont fit upside down
Is the distributor in upside down? Try rotating it 180.
what if the alt isnt hooked up would that keep it from staying on at idle
Only if the battery voltage drops too low, otherwise it'll probably just stutter and stumble.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ojb5Ow7vLmI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ojb5Ow7vLmI)
but like i said the only way to keep it on is by using the throttle
Is the distributor in upside down? Try rotating it 180.
i still dont understand what that means! the dizzy will not go in 180? ugh
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Alright, the distributor orientation doesn't matter as long as it lines up to the rotor inside....
Get your engine to TBC mark (on the crank pulley) and if you are sur the head is timed right, pull out the distributor cap. You will see the rotor inside, now you got to make sure that the rotor is going behind the no1 spark plug wire when you reassemble your cap over the rotor.
If this is OK, your probleme could as well be an air leak in your intake manifold, after your TB. those guys pointing out the brakebooster vaccum inlet minght be right about it, make sure it is not leaking air past the tape, if it is, the car will not idle on close loopor open loop, because it will be way too lean. Get a piece of hose (2inch) in there and tighten the collar around the pipe, get a good size bolt in the hose and tighten an other collar to keep the bolt secure. That's the only way I plug a hole in my manifold if I have too.
If all this fails, check all your vaccum hose to see if they are not cracked and follow them all the way, to see if they are pluged in right. I have a strong feeling you are only havin a leak in your intake, either through a vaccum hose/fitting or through a gasket (hope it's through a hose)
Tom
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yeah mna that sounds like a mad ass vacuum leak. tryin pluggin that hole and see what happens. somethins defienelty not right.
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Alright, I didn't check the video before posting and after seeing it, it sure as hell look like an air leak....
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yea on a different forum everyones telling me the same
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you will need to adjust your iac idle thingy. that might be your problem too. i had to on mine.
also, check where the throttle plate is, theres a screw on the side of the throttle body that when adjusted will push the throttle open a little, adjust that for idle too.
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David B : hello i like your 2 nissan s12 ,colours are so fine
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got a intake. ill most likley have to cut it i generally am going to put it here
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2661.jpg)
where does this go to! i dont have it hooked up possible vacumm leak
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2662.jpg)
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that would go to the side of the plenum, right behind the throttle body. there is a vac. port sticking out you need to connect it to. do you have a chiltons/hayes book?
-
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2663.jpg)
that?
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yezzz, sirrr.
im loading a pic for u.....
(http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/7930/s12runningagain006.th.jpg) (http://img102.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s12runningagain006.jpg)
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why is yours teed off
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added it to the pile!
from left to right
KA,SR,CA,KA
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2670.jpg)
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i didnt drift at summit for the first time
my blue car is not ready it will next event
i DID, judge though, i volenteered and got 75 bucks off next event
and since i volenteer alot i have 175 dredits to waste at summit!
here some pics i found from last event and a event during last summer
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/drift.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/drift9.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/drift2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/drift4.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/drift7.jpg)
im so excited to drift the blue car
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using random bits of exaust piping i have grabbed while tire hunting
i might have a kinda exuast
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2704.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2705.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2706.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2707.jpg)
going to weld it up soon, probally put a flange in the middle
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the sohc ka looks like it belongs here haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2708.jpg)
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Damn man lookin good! Shiet
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You crack me up David. How many times have we all told you to use the FSM and you still come up with Qs like that lol
Shits lookin good though man
KA,SR,CA,KA
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2670.jpg)
Needs more CA18DET or VH45DE
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lol ^ drastic differences!
He should sell me that damn SR.
Iggy where did your wide steelies go?
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lol ^ drastic differences!
He should sell me that damn SR.
Iggy where did your wide steelies go?
buy the sr its for sale! god damn
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buy the sr its for sale! god damn
How much? Haha.
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yes how much for the sr?
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350
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OH MY GOD NISSAN. it took me forever to get the battery tray out it was like welded there
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2716.jpg)
i want more space on the left side for no apparent reason so i moved the intake and cut it a bit
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2719.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2720.jpg)
i will be putting plastic in between the ground, and the wheel, so the filter doesnt get crap all over it,
i kinda wanted to make a port, to the front to pick up lots o air
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David, I know its 99% not going to happen, but you could hydrolock with the filter down where it could get submerged in deep water situations.
Never a bad bet to get Air Bypass Valve.
http://www.tirerack.com/intake/aem/air_bypass_valve.jsp (http://www.tirerack.com/intake/aem/air_bypass_valve.jsp)
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lol ^ drastic differences!
CA18DET for a balanced car
VH45DE for torque and balls of power on tap
Iggy where did your wide steelies go?
These ones?
(http://premium1.uploadit.org/iggyeguana//S12-new-sig-autox-stage.jpg)
Not mine. I was borrowing them that event only.
David why the crazy intake relocate?! Ur MAF not reachin over there eh? Had to extend the wires?
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David, I know its 99% not going to happen, but you could hydrolock with the filter down where it could get submerged in deep water situations.
Never a bad bet to get Air Bypass Valve.
http://www.tirerack.com/intake/aem/air_bypass_valve.jsp (http://www.tirerack.com/intake/aem/air_bypass_valve.jsp)
ill look into that that seems cool
but ya its mainly for drift purposes im not going to be plunging through water
especially once the car gets lower
David why the crazy intake relocate?! Ur MAF not reachin over there eh? Had to extend the wires?
and the cold air intake didnt have good inlets for the vacuum lines when i had it normally they faced UP
thats mainly why i shot it down, plus ill be getting some nice air down there
i didnt extend MAF wires, u can just unwravel the loom and seprate the maf lines from the other lines it gives you like 5 feet to play around with
well heres the start of me blocking off water/dirt coming off the wheel
if i get any wheel rub at full lock ill have to use thinner plastic/heat bend mold it around
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2722.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2724.jpg)
check out all that space!
the other side is a rats nest haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2725.jpg)
and heres a penis monster i made with a sombrero
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/penis.gif)
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art thou! refuse to spend a dollar!
haha id rather have a latch but mine is broken
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2726.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2727.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2728.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2729.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2730.jpg)
hood fits ka now but is tilted like a mofucka in the back it looks mad retarded
im trying to get a mk2 buldge hood why doesnt my ka clear
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damn those pins fit perfectly or did you grind them down?
and your engine doesnt ft because you installed it wrong. lol jk what kind of mounts did you use?
-
damn those pins fit perfectly or did you grind them down?
and your engine doesnt ft because you installed it wrong. lol jk what kind of mounts did you use?
its my trans mount. i need to take the trans mount all the way off and put a spacer in between mount and the tranny
to make the engine pivot down
no i didnt grind them down i just got lucky as shit a lowes! haha
-
cut the skeleton of the hood to fit
-
already did
put a spacer on the drivershaft mount to keep it kinda even with it
id like to keep it like that,
i have a bunch of space to get to the tranny bolts now
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omg exuast work sucks
i finished it, just need to hang it more
but the exuast point inside, ill cut off the muffler and reweld it straigt later,
still gotta lot of holes to fill in etc. ill do my best
its stock downpipe to 2.5 inch all the way to a curving 3 inch
with a HKS muffler that came originally on the car
i spent 16 dollars on the 2.5 piping i took the other pieces outback places
and another 15 on supplies
heres a note
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBHY3VcP9Nk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBHY3VcP9Nk)
-
-
antique plate
HAHAHAHAHA omg HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
Some guy with a real antique car is gonna see that and give you the finger lol
Any benefits to the plate?
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antique plate
HAHAHAHAHA omg HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
Some guy with a real antique car is gonna see that and give you the finger lol
Any benefits to the plate?
benifits like no inspection or emissions
and the 95 bucks for registration and plates is all ill ever pay. maybe more registratiuon but for two years i pay zilch, plus insurance
-
corkys diff is welded now
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benifits like no inspection or emissions
and the 95 bucks for registration and plates is all ill ever pay. maybe more registratiuon but for two years i pay zilch, plus insurance
This is nice. My car cant qualify for any antique plates yet, but I can get permanent plates for about 100 bucks and never have to register my car again.... Hopefully next time I'll figure out what I want them to say.............forever.
corkys diff is welded now
Is this your daily driver? (well, when you get your full license back) Sorry I cant remember.
-
the gray hatch is my daily but thats a welded diff too haha
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the gray hatch is my daily but thats a welded diff too haha
Oh. Nice. how does it drive like that? do you notice it a lot on normal roads or just tight radius turns?
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Oh. Nice. how does it drive like that? do you notice it a lot on normal roads or just tight radius turns?
it drives fine, the steering wheel straightens out faster then normal cause the rear wheels are pushing alot
tight radius turns, and when i clutch kick i actually go sideways and stay sideways haha
also people say welded diffs are bad, but in a racing perspective i beleive you can still use a welded diff's advantage to gain back what you loose etc.
i think im going to weld any rwd car i ever get
plus i never get stuck
i drove the hatch 45 miles today
it makes noises. but runs so far haha
no tach, no speedo, no volt guage, no oil pressure guage
ugh haha. gotta fix that
WHICH, sensor on the trans is the speedo one? ka24 that is
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nvm
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UPDATE
okay. i was completly wrong, the clicking noise i thought my springs were making was actually my driveshaft bolts almost off the thread,
phew. i locktighted them and shit.. i musta forgot while i welded the diff. i remember putting them on just not super tight
i used 2 locking washers i had lyiing around also
SO,
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2819.jpg)
redid the exuast to work with the lower axle now
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2820.jpg)
besides everyone saying its not going to work, the setup is working out great. is super cool. worth 50 bux
going to get more s13 front end suspension tomorrow
but for this first drift event, im just going to use those other front springs, on my stock struts, even with blown shocks up front it must be better then my stock ones
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Good to hear you secured that driveshaft before it launched out at 6000 rpms. lol. DRUNKAGE!!!.
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Good to hear you secured that driveshaft before it launched out at 6000 rpms. lol. DRUNKAGE!!!.
lol yea
so my springs, are not clacking or moving, there solid down, isnt that cool or what? like it handles nice with just rear suspension
yea yea yea tomorrow im going to the junkyard,
on the prowl for Q45 BRAKES NIGGGGAAAAA
-
NIGGGGAAAAA
Your white....and from Virginia......fail. <3
-
im black at heart
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i love you sometimes haha. give me entertainments while im drunk!
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lets get wasted together! weehoo. ill pretend.... because i stopped 3 years ago haha
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i'll be super cereal, because I turned 21 3hrs and 18 minutes ago!
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haha i feel like since were talking my build is continuing because the pages change and it looks biiger
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Because it IS!!!! haha. Your build is sexy. thats that.
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off to the junkyard. in search of BIG ASS BRAKES
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and that one lady's fuel pump sending unit! haha
Find anything cool, let me know, Ive been a junkyard dog for the last few days, just kinda wandering around in there not doing much other than bugging the employees lol.
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yard finds
q45 brake calipers, 15 a piece
and gangster steering wheel 13 dollars
so 43 total
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2822.jpg)
going to try out lowering front springs tonight
heres the stance on the rear of the car, not to low not to high
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2823.jpg)
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Good to hear you secured that driveshaft before it launched out at 6000 rpms. lol. DRUNKAGE!!!.
... And you think it was bad when you wheel flew off! That would be pretty scary if the whole rear end came out!
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haha yea
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Your white....and from Virginia......fail. <3
At least it's not West Virginia right?
Nice Xano, well I didn't know it was your bday, but I got waaaaaaaaaaaaasted last night.. err actually It was this morning... At least now i know it was for a good cause, lol.
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i love west va
k today just added the stiffer springs to the front, we decided to put a 1.5 inch spacer, i shoulda left that out IMO, because i could go lower, but i had to guess, to add these springs we basically had to take everything apart screw s12 suspension!
regardless its much stiffer, now its stiff all around, minus the stock s12 frotn shocks shocks arent so cool... the rear camaro ones are awesome though but will get me through next event until i get 2 coilovers, ill do my whole s13 front conversion with my new q45 brakes
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2824.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2826.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2828.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2833.jpg)
heres my stock daily driver s12, this is old springs too, in 1986 i bet this thing sat HIGHER
haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2832.jpg)
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my garage looks so bigger clean
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2903.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2904.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2907.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2908.jpg)
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lol, i always love those illustrations on the fsm's and the owners manuals. i can't wait to see vids with the new suspension. good luck.
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ive always been meaning to ask, what the hell is holding your steering wheel on...
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nothing. the thread is stripped, im gonna drill through the thread and cottor pin my hub on when it comes in the mail
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wow. corky just drove from manassas to maryland, to woodbridge, to bk meet, and back home
over 4 hours of driving
no issues...
im so lost and confused.
WHY lol
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it feels so forbidden to keep the engine that looms in my garage
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2916.jpg)
it getting stripped down now to see what actually is broken
if it is not too much money to fix, i think i might have to put this this back together and throw it in>?
i realize i could do aliot with some sr power haha... and i mean come on.. its already in my garage
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it feels so forbidden to keep the engine that looms in my garage
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2916.jpg)
it getting stripped down now to see what actually is broken
if it is not too much money to fix, i think i might have to put this this back together and throw it in>?
i realize i could do aliot with some sr power haha... and i mean come on.. its already in my garage
Rebuild the SR, put it in and sell me the KA.
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the KA runs like shit, or has some sort of timing chain noise, or something. but seems fine when im putting full throttle on it
it wouldnt be worth selling
*it was a cheap engine off a friend, but i did put alot of unneeded time and money into some thing like some gaskets, rear main seal, the alt, starter and missing pieces. but hell it feels alot more power then the ca20
id rather rebuild the ka with turbo power after the sr is, for the other s12
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the KA runs like shit, or has some sort of timing chain noise, or something. but seems fine when im putting full throttle on it
it wouldnt be worth selling
*it was a cheap engine off a friend, but i did put alot of unneeded time and money into some thing like some gaskets, rear main seal, the alt, starter and missing pieces
Ok. NVM. Haha. I wonder what's wrong with the SR. I mean, if you have it, may as well tear it down and see what the problem is and then go from there.
SR power would be amazing.
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well to keep it, id have to pay my friend the other half of what we split it, which is 150 bux, then id need to find parets, like manifolds, turbo, ic piping, etc.
the old owner ran it out of oil somehow... a dumbass, the engine was just rebuilt, so alot of gaskets should be top shape
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well to keep it, id have to pay my friend the other half of what we split it, which is 150 bux, then id need to find parets, like manifolds, turbo, ic piping, etc.
the old owner ran it out of oil somehow... a dumbass, the engine was just rebuilt, so alot of gaskets should be top shape
Hmm. If you pay the other 150 and tear it down and it's something small, you have a good deal on an SR.
How does someone run a car with no oil? I check my oil like every week, even in my yaris that only has 20k miles on it.
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he drove it from the place and told him the oil pan was leaking where they tapped it, so he needs to get itfixed. but he drove like that for about a few weeks without looking
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he drove it from the place and told him the oil pan was leaking where they tapped it, so he needs to get itfixed. but he drove like that for about a few weeks without looking
Wow.
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i bet your ka is making lifter noise. to check, take off the valve cover and try moving the lifters individualy, up and down. my exhaust side kept giving me problems. they are filled with oil and sometimes the oil drains out and they get play and make a tapping sound mainly from idle to 3000rpm. around 3000rpm they bleed themselves, but with no oil in them they wont bleed correctly.
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it sounded the exact same as your red s12 when you drove it out the street on some video
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okay start of tearing down the sohc ka for replacing whats broken and getting it back on the road
its a special ka24...
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2918.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2919.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2920.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2921.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2922.jpg)
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there seems to be a cellphone stuck in the head, that might be part of your problem.
-
haha we were talking to a friend on speaker phone as were tearing it down
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i bet your ka is making lifter noise. to check, take off the valve cover and try moving the lifters individualy, up and down. my exhaust side kept giving me problems. they are filled with oil and sometimes the oil drains out and they get play and make a tapping sound mainly from idle to 3000rpm. around 3000rpm they bleed themselves, but with no oil in them they wont bleed correctly.
Add me to that list of SOHC KA noise hahah
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k well the sr20det is in my hands, it will be 100 percent mine, and we are rebuilding it to go into the s12, its confirmed, i think. it depends on if i can afford to do this
head comes off tomorrow, and the oil pan too.
i can get the head off does anyone know the star hex point thing size i need to buy? for the head studs
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k well the sr20det is in my hands, it will be 100 percent mine, and we are rebuilding it to go into the s12, its confirmed, i think. it depends on if i can afford to do this
head comes off tomorrow, and the oil pan too.
i can get the head off does anyone know the star hex point thing size i need to buy? for the head studs
Badass.
-
its 10mm allen hex on CA18DE's, might be the same for sr....
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ill try that thanks
byee meoww hoood
omg this shit had like 15 layers of paint on it
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2939.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2941.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2942.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2944.jpg)
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YESSS gutted hood FTW!!!!!!!
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YESSS gutted hood FTW!!!!!!!
lol its so flimsy now. but most deffinetly lighter, makes putting the hood on my short self alot easier
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okay, my moms ex fiance, is very smart with cars, did autobody for years. he kept this headpiece in his garage, made from wood, painted bronze, weighs about 3-4 pounds
mom tried to throw it away, and i said NO
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2947.jpg)
i think, i will drift better, if i put this on my rad support by drilling some holes itno him and zip tieing it
discuss
-
badass. Discussion over.
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win
but paint it with flake
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The hood looks nice and fresh now with the primer on it.
I don't know about the head on the hood. You said the hood is flimsy.... You think it would like Bach sitting on it?
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The hood looks nice and fresh now with the primer on it.
I don't know about the head on the hood. You said the hood is flimsy.... You think it would like Bach sitting on it?
i dont really keep the hood on when i drift
the primer looks fresh butt he cheap paint i used didnt, im going to have to recoat it
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my friend was getting rid of his boat
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2948.jpg)
but i luckly had allen wrench keys on me
<3 boats
-
i want to drift on the west coast
anyone want to let me stay at there house for a month over there lol
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv226/liquidice155/s12-1.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv226/liquidice155/s12-2.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv226/liquidice155/s12-3.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv226/liquidice155/s12-4.jpg)
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I used to go visit my aunt in Cali every summer. She lived a little bit east of Sacre-demento. There were so many abandoned roads, parking lots, airstrips, etc out there.
I want to go back now with a car.
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installed the wheel off the boat, i like it! my dumbass drilled holes, but i realized it bolts in the first place, my hubhas 2 different bolt patterns on it DOH
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2950.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2952.jpg)
who woulda ever known boats had such cool wheels
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David you can come chill here
Weekly drifting, $20/hr
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lol okay ill just go chill there let me telaport over
trust me man, oncei get my liscense, and some cash, and a truck, and a trailer, i am seriously road tripping west coast and drifting. i will not die before i do it either
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(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv226/liquidice155/s12-4.jpg)
I realized I may have missed this but what the fuck is that hangin from the front of your car? I know it's a crused bottle but is the digusting substance inside and why do you have it?
nevermind after having a second glance I realize what it is but it still looks nasty lol
-
I realized I may have missed this but what the fuck is that hangin from the front of your car? I know it's a crused bottle but is the digusting substance inside and why do you have it?
nevermind after having a second glance I realize what it is but it still looks nasty lol
Calostopy bag?
-
I realized I may have missed this but what the fuck is that hangin from the front of your car? I know it's a crused bottle but is the digusting substance inside and why do you have it?
nevermind after having a second glance I realize what it is but it still looks nasty lol
Urine is cheaper than Water Wetter. lol.
-
my coolant is mostly water, because i leak coolant and ill i have is water to replace ti with when im gone
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wheres the leak from man, fix it, corky dont like to lose fluids.
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blah blah. ill get a s13 rad sometime
will a q45 radiator fit? i know of one i pulled and hid atthe yard once
-
try any radiator, any rad you get is gonna require some custom work, so get one made for a huge engine or something, just measure your existing one with a tape and make sure the height and length are the same or smaller on the new one.
-
well a q45 is ment to cool a vh45de infinity engine
-
like i said, just make sure you measure it with a tape to be sure it will fit size wise.
-
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2999.jpg)
practicing welding, getting a feel from different metal thicknesses, then banging the sculpture up to see how good it holds
made a few mistakes but im getting it down
so much welding wire came with it haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2995.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2996.jpg)
i spent 120, on gloves, welder, mask, tips, all that wire, anti splatter spray bullshit? etc.
-
-
wtf is that thing hahah
-
wtf is that thing hahah
almost a powder coating oven
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this morning i added the start of supports. my welds suck. they hold though im trying to get better, butt this sheet metal isnt the thickest
most deffinetly entertaining a insulation layer to retain some sort of heat
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3003.jpg)
ugh i need sleep or something, im exausted no sleep sucks
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3004.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3005.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3006.jpg)
will be using the other door on the bottom if it fits, or ill extend the one on there
and the pole across is where ill be hanging shit
the welding is slowly getting easier
and the swivels. hold the door,so i say im doing a decent job
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need insulation
-
need insulation
i know. im buying thick sheetmetal, and inside, from bar to bar, ill be using that, it will give em a good 1.25 inches, from the exterior galvanized shit
-
Transformers? haha!
BOXATRON!
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yea it will transform into a mustang with machine guns
new plan for door, im going to cut out the right side aka viewing window, and use the other oven door, and MIRROR,the door on the left.
? sounds good?
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Lol I like the Retro clock on the oven. Sick project btw.
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Lol I like the Retro clock on the oven. Sick project btw.
haha thanks
im getting a eastwood powder coat kit, a WHOLE KIT, for free. i told my friend, ill let him use it, and charge people, whenever if he buys it
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some more information on the DIY part
heres the stock fan ill be using, this stays internal and is made from metal to withstand heat
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3007.jpg)
heres some free insulation, from the stock oven i can use
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3008.jpg)
here are the heat rails, off the harnes, its as easy as a pos. neg. wire that attaches to them. simple stuff, i have 4, becuase i have a double oven
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3009.jpg)
heres the wiring mess, i touch NOTHING, this is literally the top of the old oven, i welded it to the top of my new one
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3010.jpg)
that harness, has a sister harness that scrolls down the back of the original oven, dos the same as mine
consists of A powe harness, like any eletrical oven
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3011.jpg)
and B the wiring to each heat rail, pos. neg. and to a light, which ill use, and to a fan, that i might not use
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3012.jpg)
looking through a hole, heres my space
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3014.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3016.jpg)
heres my beefy wooden pallet, i took from my job, ill be putting roller wheels on it
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3017.jpg)
that wood will get hot, so i must make a pad, i have spread rock, to seperate the wood from the oven
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3020.jpg)
not recommended, its expensive but i got it for free
and then some tools used
30 dollar drill from hb freight
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3021.jpg)
20 dollar cut off wheel from hb frieght
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3019.jpg)
and what do you know a pheumatic 12 dollar cut off wheel for the small stuf, also from hb freight, all work great.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3018.jpg)
welder being used is a lincoln 100 weldpack, purchased for 120 bucks
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That's the most glorious jerry-rigged oven I've ever seen. If it works without spontaneous combustion I will consider it porn.
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That's the most glorious jerry-rigged oven I've ever seen. If it works without spontaneous combustion I will consider it porn.
oh it will, im getting sheetmetal, like 1/2 inch for almost free etc,
why wouldnt it work?
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i scored a ricers tachometer today for 20 bux
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3022.jpg)
attempted to de-rice it
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3025.jpg)
wtf its so big
ill be making my own guage cluster, gas,temp, and tach
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Update** put an hour or two into it this morning
heres what i did, i added the other door, and welded them together, and added a 3rd swivel
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3026.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3027.jpg)
i also realized how flimsy it was getting with the heavy door
so i bridged the two together with a pipe
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3034.jpg)
im buying sheetmetal soon, but i forgot this project is about buying the least i can,
soooo back to milking what i can out of the stock oven...........
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3028.jpg)
you know what sucks guys? owning 1 vicegrip.... and trying to weld and hold shit by yourself
FUCK haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3029.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3030.jpg)
having all those open spaces is +1 will allow me to add insulation before i button it up
speaking of insulation, so far im buying none. im using the stock ovens insulation
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3031.jpg)
and tip of the day!
TAPE ANY SHARP METAL STICKING OUT
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3033.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3032.jpg)
dont worry i have my tetnus shot
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oohh shit, cars on jackstands, half way
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3055.jpg)
installed free ka24 radiator thanks to energy youth and the guy with the sick ka24e 510. also thanks sid for the random spare fan, now running dual fans, to try to keep it a little cooler
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3056.jpg)
is this safe? bwahahaha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3057.jpg)
and omg, doesnt this radiator fluid make you thirsty? put in a 50 50 solution
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3058.jpg)
tomorrow im going to get tires mounted for the drift event, and try to fix my p steering
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put the s13 mirror on, i love it, the old s12 mirror mounts to to window and is right in your face
and put the wing on
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3065.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3060.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3062.jpg)
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i have been lazy guys. i know this build thread is on fire and all lol
if i had rims and a dohc would i get as many comments as henry did hehe
scrambling money for front coils to drop in the brakes and s13 suspension and modded knuckles my friend is doing
the swap is running almost oem... its fucking crazy how easy this swap was
my battery connection sucks though. something i need to fix
i got a job at autozone, more money will be in once i start
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Well after reading your last post i kinda feel like i have to lol. (pity post JK) Any way i was just wondering what parts you still need for the s13 conversion. i just finished buying all the convertion parts and found some good deals ill pass on to ya, so let me know.
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Well after reading your last post i kinda feel like i have to lol. (pity post JK) Any way i was just wondering what parts you still need for the s13 conversion. i just finished buying all the convertion parts and found some good deals ill pass on to ya, so let me know.
i have 2 sets of spindles/hubs
front sway bar, rear swaybar (not using rear)
tension rods with new bushings
tie rods (ill be buying longer ones)
lower control arms
q45 brakes
i have, everything lol. but thanks
all i need is front coils and q45 rotorz
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drift footAGgE
http://vimeo.com/4805695?pg=embed&sec= (http://vimeo.com/4805695?pg=embed&sec=)
i kept having cutting out issues. kinda sick of it
the second to last clip, you can hear the car die for like 3 seconds and i cant accel...
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when's it cutting out? At like highest load right? Can't hit rev limiter, and it only comes back on after 3200 rpm???
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when's it cutting out? At like highest load right? Can't hit rev limiter, and it only comes back on after 3200 rpm???
it depends on which gear im in,
second gear, i can hit 6,000 rpms, and ill keep it there, and tap off the gas keep it there
(watch the video u can hear it)
if i dont do that it cuts off... and doesnt turn back on to like what u said 3200 rpms
but ive had it happen in 5th gear, at 4,500 rpms....
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David B : nice work on the blue valve cover , mate
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lol thanks, i like blue
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it depends on which gear im in,
second gear, i can hit 6,000 rpms, and ill keep it there, and tap off the gas keep it there
(watch the video u can hear it)
if i dont do that it cuts off... and doesnt turn back on to like what u said 3200 rpms
but ive had it happen in 5th gear, at 4,500 rpms....
supposedly its the check engine code for the VSS.
my s13 does that too lol
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uhhh lol.
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transfer masterrrr
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YEAH david drift vids! looking great man
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YEAH david drift vids! looking great man
thanks
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3111.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3113.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3112.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3110.jpg)
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okay my solid axle is gay! i need like a 5-10 spacer for the rear.... but its only because the solid axle is shorter then irs setups... ive noticed by looking at both my cars
this means that the front will be flush like some shit
and i need to go MOAR LOWER
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3114.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3115.jpg)
gtf over it my car is dirty. havent touched it since last drift event.. and i only had 2 14 inch tires for the car so i cant use all 4
ill clean ti someday, and refurbish the rims
i need those spacers next
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Lol wash that car, what would hoshino say if he saw it with the impuls on? But MAN they look good I would buy some of those and keep them in air sealed boxes for them to last forever.
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i got a job at autozone, more money will be in once i start
Welcome to the darkside. Where you save 10%.
Mismatched wheels FTL, put the other two on when the $$$ permits, the hoshinos are 80's-tastic
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Lol wash that car, what would hoshino say if he saw it with the impuls on? But MAN they look good I would buy some of those and keep them in air sealed boxes for them to last forever.
lol ill wash it. and thanks
Welcome to the darkside. Where you save 10%.
Mismatched wheels FTL, put the other two on when the $$$ permits, the hoshinos are 80's-tastic
the manager said 20-30 percent?
and im going tire hunting tonight for some 14's. dont worry
i love the hoshinos. so spectacular!
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No it's 10% except on fluids and spark plugs and a few other things... lemme read the back of the card here...
Not on R-12 and R134a refrigerant, motor oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, antifreeze, spark plugs, VDP (special orders), and marked-down items.
I've bought a variety of things and everything was 10% off. It even works on the candy and soda and chips and such, which is cool when you want to grab a quick, cheap snack on your break. Unfortunately for me, I drive the truck so I can't take the soda in there (we're only allowed water, no other drinks or any food).
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No it's 10% except on fluids and spark plugs and a few other things... lemme read the back of the card here...
Not on R-12 and R134a refrigerant, motor oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, antifreeze, spark plugs, VDP (special orders), and marked-down items.
I've bought a variety of things and everything was 10% off. It even works on the candy and soda and chips and such, which is cool when you want to grab a quick, cheap snack on your break. Unfortunately for me, I drive the truck so I can't take the soda in there (we're only allowed water, no other drinks or any food).
well my friend works there, and gets me 20 percent the past year.... and the manager stated, 20-30 percent depending on the year!
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Hmm well might be different state-to-state.
Edit: looked on my receipt, it's 20%. I guess usually I'm buyin a bag of chips so it's hard to tell
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haha sweet
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Hell yeah man, when you have an alternator or starter die on you, you'll see, that's a BIG money savings right there. Plus you can bring them in to test them on the machine, and save yourself some grief/money.
Buy new belts, hoses, and wires, and the savings are big, too.
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3149.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3150.jpg)
fuck yes!
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yay! where'd you score those?
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yay! where'd you score those?
lol camaro zack. guy with big red camaro. he has everything i need. i need a sponser sticker with his name on it on the side of my car....hes welded so much,a nd has givin me so much shit for cheap
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Niiiice. Gonna make a huge difference.
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fuck yea!
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dude!
this week ive spent so much moeny. so many cool deals
got a turbo hood for 45 bucks, found 2 mk1.5 s12's at the yard with lee
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3156.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3157.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3158.jpg)
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That looks so much better!
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i would kill for a turbo hood details about the finding of it
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also please remove that hood when you go drifting!!!!! lol dont want to kill that sexy new hood
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also please remove that hood when you go drifting!!!!! lol dont want to kill that sexy new hood
i usually remove it anyway
i found it at the yard...
the hood fitment sucks, cuz i have the hoodpins under the hood, and it strapped down for the ride home haha
btw
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i found it at the yard...
It was randomly on a CA20 car. Lol.
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It was randomly on a CA20 car. Lol.
yea i know!??!!? GLUED, like OEM glue???
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so like it is ona flat hood?
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so like it is ona flat hood?
?
no its a real turbo hood, lots o room since my ka never cleared before, which is coolness
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i am going with mom on some teacher confrences around rual ky and im gonna look in some rednecks junk yards to see if i can snag one
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i dont like this part i hate suspensionnn
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3159.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3160.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3161.jpg)
need rotorz, and missing bolts...
not pictured is the front sway bar
or should i use stock?
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heres the s13 spare knuckles i have to get chopped up for g unitangle
(wont be going in until after i get more cash)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3162.jpg)
and i have 2 tension rod bushings to add
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3163.jpg)
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sweet id say use the s12 sway bar for now then later on get a s14 one.
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kthanks
and, what exactly do i need to do for the stock tie rods?
temperary, until i buy better ones to accomadate the cut knuckles
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i also need help on this. i think were going to have about the same setup
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the best thing to do imo is get S13 inner AND outer tie rod ends and swap those onto your current S12 rack. There are other options, but this is the most stable I think (the A-1 adapter tie rod ends are both more $$ and don't seem as solid as OEM ones) and you will still maintain full adjustability.
As for the tension rods, you'll either need S14 tension rod brackets or simply mount up the shit, see whereabout the S13 tension rod comes into the original s12 tension rod bracket, and drill a new hole to accept the S13 tension rod bracket. thing is with this, you may end up with different (ie incorrect) caster by doing this, which if you had adjustable S13 tension rods then you'd be ok. more things to think about...
also btw, you can swap the S13 ball joint into the original S12 lower control arm and maintain the same wheel fitment you had before. dunno if this matters to you, but installing the S13 stuff with the S13 lca will bump your wheel outward by about 10mm.
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ughh all this bs.
can i just swap the hub or w/e onto the LCA....and use all stock s12 stuff around there..... i dont see too much upgrade other then the coilovers anyways...and the brakes
oh wait, r u saying, i can swap pieces off the stock s13 stie rods onto the s12 tie rod to the rack?
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umm
S13 inner tie rods will thread into an S12 steering rack. This is what i recommend. then put S13 outer tie rods onto the S13 inner tie rods, and connect to new spindle.
opportunity to get the steering spacers as well, which would slip over the threads of the S13 inners as they go into the S12 steering rack, which will allow the rack to move further each way and give you more lock.
S13 outer----S13 inner--S12 steering rack--S13 inner---S13 outer
make sense?..
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umm
S13 inner tie rods will thread into an S12 steering rack. This is what i recommend. then put S13 outer tie rods onto the S13 inner tie rods, and connect to new spindle.
opportunity to get the steering spacers as well, which would slip over the threads of the S13 inners as they go into the S12 steering rack, which will allow the rack to move further each way and give you more lock.
S13 outer----S13 inner--S12 steering rack--S13 inner---S13 outer
make sense?..
makes perfect sense
i think im gonna ditch all of the s13 lca/tension rod bs.... i got ti all for free anyways... ill keeep it in case i wreck and i really need to replace or something
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it would be easier at this point.
good to save as spares tho.
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yea i got all that stuff for free etc.
okay i have alot more confidence haha
just need to redrill the q45 brakes once i get them...
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Suspension is the funnest. Grats on the progress.
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the cheapest way you can do it david is.......
keep the s12 lca in place.
keep the s12 swaybar in place
keep the s12 tension/strut rod and bracket in place
buy s13 ball joints
install s13 balljoints into s12 lca
install s13 knuckle to s12 lca w/ s13 ball joint
get s13 tie rods...autozone new=cheap junkyard=cheaper
use your coils and boom you got suspension.
brakes can be put on later after the cars on the ground.
thats the easiest and cheapest s13 swap.
basically all you need is rotors, balljoints and some tie rods. install that then sell the s12 stuffs to make some money back and go buy some more s13 stuff for spares.
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the cheapest way you can do it david is.......
keep the s12 lca in place.
keep the s12 swaybar in place
keep the s12 tension/strut rod and bracket in place
buy s13 ball joints
install s13 balljoints into s12 lca
install s13 knuckle to s12 lca w/ s13 ball joint
get s13 tie rods...autozone new=cheap junkyard=cheaper
use your coils and boom you got suspension.
brakes can be put on later after the cars on the ground.
thats the easiest and cheapest s13 swap.
basically all you need is rotors, balljoints and some tie rods. install that then sell the s12 stuffs to make some money back and go buy some more s13 stuff for spares.
i told ya i have s13 stuff! i have 2 full s13 conversions.. so i wont be buying anything but rotorz
thanks for the info
gotta get this done before hyperfest
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wohoo 4 of the same wheels!! for arro
got front tirez mounted today, yokohomas with like 85% ish tread left on it
my camera gave up at the moment, so i am officially taking pics with a 2.1 MP kodak easyshare till i get my 8 mp to work lol
and yea, i need to paint my front lip again. and get a real hood latch
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0721.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0722.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0723.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0724.jpg)
( i still need a 20 mill rear spacer i know)
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Looks good. Strange to see your car with the same wheels all around. Haha.
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knock off a few gas stations and have a pro wheel shop remake them into 15s or 16s. 16x8 +10 front and 16x9 0 rear. roll and pull all around. hott VA S12 yo
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damn, that looks great. a bit of spacer, a bit of lower, should be sex.
please, please, don't fuck up those rims sliding it!
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damn, that looks great. a bit of spacer, a bit of lower, should be sex.
please, please, don't fuck up those rims sliding it!
lower and spacers are next
these wheels are just show wheels, before drift events im gonna use the 15 inch meshies up front with toyo proxies i have, and steelies and 240sx alloys in the rear
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ah, good. lookn dope!
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3231.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3242.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3229.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3225.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3240.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3238.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3237.jpg)
little local meet was rained out but 3 of us showed haha
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so you must not have gotten a ticket at this one then =P
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so you must not have gotten a ticket at this one then =P
lol i didnt dfrive
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lol i didnt dfrive
Ha. Your just too VIP to drive. You have a personal chauffer!!!
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k i popped the knuckles off
things to do
drill my rotors to 4 lug
remove dust shields
buy new rubber seal thingys for the rubber things on the ball joint
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0731.jpg)
I CANNOT REMOVE THIS KNUCKLE! it was easy on the s12 one while it was on the car, but these are off
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0732.jpg)
so for now im test fitting the coils with my spare knuckles, but i really dont feel like swapping hubs over
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0733.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0734.jpg)
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QUESTIONS
those rubber ball joint thingys, should i buy 200sx, or 240sx ones, and what are they called
and, i had 3 sets of control arms with hubs on them, and also 2 spare knuckles
but i lost the left controlarm/knuckle, and i have 2 rights
could i use my SPARE knuckle on the left side with the left knuckle, and add the RIGHT hub, onto that knuckle?
is there a difference between left and right hubs?
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I sincerely hope you were not relying on that jackstand that was under the control arm to hold the car up - it looks sketchy as hell.
As for removing the arm from the knuckle either try heat, or thread the nut back on about halfway and then strike the nut DEAD ON with a large drift or piece of pipe + hammer.
I believe there was something said before about how the taper of the balls joints for the 240 vs 200 are different. Thus the 240 taper is designed to fit the 240 knuckle (common sense).. Can someone else elaborate on this?
Technically there is a difference between left and right hubs, if they are new it shouldnt matter. Used hubgs though - that can create wear patterns that might be noticeable in your driving experience. You can always check by calling a parts store and seeing if the left vs right hubs have different part numbers, they are likely the same though.
-Dan
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I sincerely hope you were not relying on that jackstand that was under the control arm to hold the car up - it looks sketchy as hell.
As for removing the arm from the knuckle either try heat, or thread the nut back on about halfway and then strike the nut DEAD ON with a large drift or piece of pipe + hammer.
I believe there was something said before about how the taper of the balls joints for the 240 vs 200 are different. Thus the 240 taper is designed to fit the 240 knuckle (common sense).. Can someone else elaborate on this?
Technically there is a difference between left and right hubs, if they are new it shouldnt matter. Used hubgs though - that can create wear patterns that might be noticeable in your driving experience. You can always check by calling a parts store and seeing if the left vs right hubs have different part numbers, they are likely the same though.
-Dan
lol no, the jackstand is just holding the control arm up so i could pop the knuckle off without it bending down, the car is held on jackstands on the frame rails
i might just end up looking for the other hub
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i got the stupid hub off and onto the s12
i love coilovers
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0735.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0736.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0737.jpg)
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Haha. Antique Vehicle Plates. I didn't realize our cars were gettin that old.
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Haha. Antique Vehicle Plates. I didn't realize our cars were gettin that old.
fuck yea, its 25 years here for antique plates. makes it easy to mod my car
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fix yor lip foo
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CAN'T WAIT for the 25 year mark for my 87' Se
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fix yor lip foo
you fix it
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why cant i just use the stock tie rod, and drille a hole through the bolt, through the thread, and put a cotter pin there?
or simply weld the bolt to the thread, and cut it off once i buy new tie rods
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0740.jpg)
can i sue the stock brake line? if i weld a piece of metal, to keep the box looking thing from going left and right, if it holds pressure etc. will this be fine?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0741.jpg)
next, id to drill the rotors on my dads drill press
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0739.jpg)
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you need the s13 tie rod ends. do not jankify this part, its extremely critical for the car to go in a straight line... vs into oncoming traffic. welding to this if not done just right could result in it suddenly breaking off. same with drilling, etc.
if you absolutely cannot find s13 inner and outer tie rods, Im sure we could locate a set here in socal.
I don't think you need to modify the S12 flexible brake line at all, iirc it should be just fine. its only when you run the steering angle spacers it becomes a problem. If you are concerned, swap to S13 soft lines, then no issues.
I recommend new copper washers on the flex line where it bolts to the caliper (the box end) so you reduce the chance of leaks. they are cheap, just bring them to your favorite parts store and they should be able to match them.
The hubs should be the same left or right. The S13 setup, unlike the S12, has all the bearings and movable surfaces within the bearings pressed into the hub, so you dont need to worry about wear patterns on the spindle, etc because the movement occurs within the hub, not on the spindle like it does on the S12. its rather hard to describe without the actual parts in front of us, but you can use either one on either side or just grab another if necessary. preferably one with all the lug studs
You need to be using the S13 ball joint. install a new S13 ball joint if yours is damaged or it is still an S12 ball joint.
looks good man...
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I'm more jealous of the Hoshino's than anything....
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You need to be using the S13 ball joint. install a new S13 ball joint if yours is damaged or it is still an S12 ball joint.
looks good man...
i cant use the stock ball joint?
and i HAVE to use inner and outer tie rods? i cant just sue outer?
ugh, i need some more info one what is what, the tie rod looks liek 2 peices to me, not 3
my friend is a experienced welder, and coul weld it very good... for now.. until i buy new tie rods
where can i buy castle nuts?
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i cant use the stock ball joint?
and i HAVE to use inner and outer tie rods? i cant just sue outer?
ugh, i need some more info one what is what, the tie rod looks liek 2 peices to me, not 3
David, Steering is one of the things you don't wanna cobble together. use the S13 inner and outers. They're super easy to find in a boneyard (Even for me), and they qualify as a pocket item in my case. I understand you have spare knuckles, but keep them at that. spares. Just do it right. I had a SHOP not torque down a tie rod castle nut right, and I almost died. I was doing 40 on a highway on ramp, it let go, which caused the ball joint to let go (wheel went all the way to the right) and then, off the on ramp down a 45 degree embankment. for 200 feet, stopping 2 feet shy of a concrete barrier.
I do not dick around with chassis parts... and recommend you to think the same way.
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Tie rods are inner and outer halves, you need both. when you see S13 ones, you'll know why- they are totally different lengths and smaller diameter.
Apparently S12 and S13 ball joints have different tapers, so you need to toss S13 ball joints into the S12 control arms.
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i feel like club-s12 is my mom. always telling me to do stuff
i have s13 tie rods. im just lazy. and i dont care about my life but fine, ill go ahead and do it
but foreal, do i have to swap ball joints? the knuckle fits on it fine...
how the hell do yu remove a ball joint
im guessing i need a ball joint press
i wish i was told this befor i put it all together lol
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i have s13 tie rods. im just lazy. and i dont care about my life but fine, ill go ahead and do it
but foreal, do i have to swap ball joints? the knuckle fits on it fine...
how the hell do yu remove a ball joint
im guessing i need a ball joint press
i wish i was told this befor i put it all together lol
I don't fear death, but I'll be damned if I die on the road from something I did poorly
Swap the ball joint's, it's not hard (press, or torch and hammer away)
Now go clean your room damnit. I'm getting sick of the car parts keeping the door shut.
(my mother said that to me, and I couldn't help but laugh my ass off...at the time I was rebuilding a F2T in my room........)
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i mean the ball joint is like IN there, i hammer it to the side or what?
didnt henry use his stock balljoints? havent others?
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i mean the ball joint is like IN there, i hammer it to the side or what?
didnt henry use his stock balljoints? havent others?
A socket that's big and tall enough to go around the shaft, and within the casings outer ridges makes life a lot easier to beat it down out of the control arm. But the arm will most likely have to be removed for this..
I have read of others using the stockers, but I wouldn't risk it seeing as the part MADE for the knuckle, is easily put into the car.
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okay so ill pull the tie rods out, and post some pictures
ill think aboutt he balljoint part later.. id really rather just use the stock one.. it seems to fit fine
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thansk to rage for clearing this up
you guys got me head all mangled.... if someone would have said, WHOLE s13 tie rod.. i would have gotten it
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okay i ditched the stock tie rods due to saftey reasons
added s13 ones, one of them is kinda shot, its 6.67 at the yard so ill grab another one this week
and, its like 6 am, so random pictas can go on
btw im ditching those tires... to save space, anyone want?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0746.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0747.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0748.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0749.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0750.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0751.jpg)
yea the ball joint seal looks nasty, thats just the old shit, i regreased them with some red shit
heres a easy way to get the inner tie rod loose
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0745.jpg)
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Cool good job david! hey, are you going to replace those ball joints on the lower controle arm? just wondering they look a little beet up.
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yes, Henry replaced his balljoint, you need to do the same. either look thru his build thread and find the pics of where it was done or go to autozone and rent the tool to press them out and press the new ones in, its not hard, the kit will make sense after you play with it for awhile.
its not yourself you've got to worry about, if something goes wrong and you plow into the incoming lane and kill or injure your friend driving/another driver or passengers that would be on your shoulders for the rest of your life. not worth it imo.
let me see if I posted up the pics of the balljoint install in the cheetah build thread, it should be near the end,
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balljoints r gheyyy
dammit. how much r they new?
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balljoints r gheyyy
dammit. how much r they new?
More than you've paid... for anything
40-60 bucks EACH.
I get em for 17.99
That is one of the smartest things i've done in my life. Before I left advance auto, I set myself up with a level 5 commercial discount account..
Oh, and a side note for that, Get one that's greaseable and not the lifetime warranty sealed pieces of junk.
Unless, like my maxima, none are greaseable. Then drill and tap a hole for a grease fitting. I could not bring myself to selling the "lifetime" ones when I worked the desk, because EVERY SINGLE ONE FAIL!
And david... The boneyard shouldn't be your first parts source for EVERYTHING.... But 90 percent of the time, yeah. It should.
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i cant afford 120 dollars for ball joints... cant i just use my s13 ones i have...
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I did the full s13 conv so i needed new s13 ball joint for my s13 lower control arms. i found a place online that sell oem lower control arms w/ ball joints and bushings for 80 shipped! pm me if you want the address ill have to dig it up
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the local shop can remove the s13 ones i have and press them in for 80 dollars...
dammit. i guess i will...
no one... uses stock balljoint on s13 knuckleS?
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the local shop can remove the s13 ones i have and press them in for 80 dollars...
dammit. i guess i will...
no one... uses stock balljoint on s13 knuckleS?
Holy shit! That shop is expensive!!
I get old ones pressed out, and new ones in for 8 dollars an arm!
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you can do it with the tool/pipes and a hammer for WAY less. 25-30bucks iirc for the parts, but thats gonna vary.
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you can do it with the tool/pipes and a hammer for WAY less. 25-30bucks iirc for the parts, but thats gonna vary.
id rather buy new ones, and put them in myself...
any good way to get the fucker out of the control arm? can someone explain
hyperfest is NEXT SATURDAY!!!
help im rushing fast
ball joints at autozone is 35 bucks a piece
how about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-240S...sQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-240SX-89-94-BALL-JOINT-LOWER-RIGHT-LEFT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem27a936faaaQQitemZ170342677162QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
im scared to order, cause what if they dont come in on time.. if i do on ebay
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id rather buy new ones, and put them in myself...
any good way to get the fucker out of the control arm? can someone explain
hyperfest is NEXT SATURDAY!!!
help im rushing fast
ball joints at autozone is 35 bucks a piece
how about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-240S...sQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-240SX-89-94-BALL-JOINT-LOWER-RIGHT-LEFT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem27a936faaaQQitemZ170342677162QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
im scared to order, cause what if they dont come in on time.. if i do on ebay
I would ask the seller if it comes with the circlips for the top. It has the groove, but as it states may be a generic picture. Find that out first.
You can rent a ball joint and ujoint press tool at advance for about 70 bucks, or maybe more. But you get it all back when you return it. I've used that countless times. And now I own my own press. I got sick of paying for pressing the maxima's bearings out and in every 6 months.
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I would ask the seller if it comes with the circlips for the top. It has the groove, but as it states may be a generic picture. Find that out first.
You can rent a ball joint and ujoint press tool at advance for about 70 bucks, or maybe more. But you get it all back when you return it. I've used that countless times. And now I own my own press. I got sick of paying for pressing the maxima's bearings out and in every 6 months.
which ball joint tool do i use? arent there different types?
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fuck q45 brakes. i drilled my old rusty rotors, and installed them
neither of the hoshinos nor rikens fit! i need a 10 mill spacer and im broke kinda in that area
SO, i gave my drilled rotors to a guy who needed them with his j30 brakes... on his ca18det s13.. he put his brake setup together, suprisingly my drill job seems fine.. i did use a drill press and carefull stuff though
in return i got 2 brand new q 45 rotors (undrilled) and his s13 old brakes, pads and calipers.. that were on the car thanks to him lots
so im gonna rock the s13 shit till i can afford spacers etc. and redrill these new rotors
suspension is basically DONE, but i ordered s13 ball joints... i put it all kinda together but im missing bolts etc. i just wanted to make sure it all was gonna fit right
so, get ball joints pressed in, get some bolts, and drift nirvana here i come
some pics
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0753.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0754.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0755.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0752.jpg)
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good stuff
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i wasnt aware you can run q45 rotors w/ s13 calipers.....
wat? no, i have s13 rotors with s13 calipers
and thanks too lee who spotted the add. i think im picking up a WHOLE rear end off a datsun 200sx, 1982 with disks, just got off the phone with the guy
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wat? no, i have s13 rotors with s13 calipers
and thanks too lee who spotted the add. i think im picking up a WHOLE rear end off a datsun 200sx, 1982 with disks, just got off the phone with the guy
Lol. You're lucky I have a bunch of parts to buy for my Z, otherwise that would have been in my budget.
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wat? no, i have s13 rotors with s13 calipers
and thanks too lee who spotted the add. i think im picking up a WHOLE rear end off a datsun 200sx, 1982 with disks, just got off the phone with the guy
Your a dick...
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pardon me for not reading completely, but are you running s13 lcas?
i believe it gives you more track, for better fitment
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wont change the wheel fitment, just increases much needed negative camber
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isn that what neg camber is for? regardless a longer lca wont make the wheels fit
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regardless a longer lca wont make the wheels fit
it would with high offset wheels
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it would with high offset wheels
okay, but it wouldnt change the distance from caliper to wheel..... the wheel doesnt spin when i tighten it down.
needs a spacer
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0757.jpg)
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Badass.
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so your wheels rub the calipers? have you made sure they're not rubbing the coils too. pic pics pics and more pics
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so your wheels rub the calipers? have you made sure they're not rubbing the coils too. pic pics pics and more pics
they dont rub the coils, luckly.
and i got the ball joints pressed in! im gonna find and buy as many bolts as it takes, ill take some pictas soon
then i gotta drive the car to get it aligned and BAM, done
i already posted this in the other thread but ill put it in here too because its awesome
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0756.jpg)
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oooo, disk conversion...yeah!!!
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conversion done
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0759.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0760.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0761.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0762.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0763.jpg)
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You did remember to put the snap ring on the ball joints, right?
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You did remember to put the snap ring on the ball joints, right?
yes sir!
needs alignment. very badly... i have SOOO much toe in
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0766.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/cool-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/cooll.jpg)
the toe is so bad, it can only be driven about 10 mph. theres a shop about a block down the street im gonna take it too tomorrow
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Why's the back jacked up so high?
When you get the alignment finished, take some daytime pics
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Why's the back jacked up so high?
When you get the alignment finished, take some daytime pics
He only bought got front coilovers. so now he needs to get new springs in the rear to drop her down.
Dave, even with an alignment that thing is going to be sooooo unruly sliding.
It's not a good thing. it might scare you.
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He only bought got front coilovers. so now he needs to get new springs in the rear to drop her down.
Dave, even with an alignment that thing is going to be sooooo unruly sliding.
It's not a good thing. it might scare you.
why? the springs in the rear arent that bad
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why? the springs in the rear arent that bad
It's center of gravity isn't level. for one. It's sloped. Spring and strut rates aren't matched. and I'm sure the rear springs and shocks are going to be a lot softer in comparison.
take videos!!!
Oh, and go get that car for me and bring it here.
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my tie rods are TOO long... instead of welding it shorter, i bought my first die and tap set and made a new thread
i <3 tap and die sets!!! they work so well!
i lengthend the tie rod thread, and i cut the some of the old part off, so now it should be fine to drive to get it aligned
the made thread is the cleaner part
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0770.jpg)
cut
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0771.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0773.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0774.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0775.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0777.jpg)
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See, now wasn't that easy?
Good deal!
Oh, and i'm glad to see you got greasable ball joints
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31 bucks for too new off ebay balljoints
they look pregreased... should i grease them??
im gonna make my own s13 suspension thread.... the other ones are lies!
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Ya, I'd hit 'em with some grease.
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youve come so far since i first saw your first post on this forum...we should all be super proud of you lol
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lol thanks, i have learned alot just from the interwebs
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Good job David looks great! anything else you doing to her before your next event?
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got 8 tires mounted. so im straight! preregistered!~
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/105_0779.jpg)
rear, spacer. neeed now.
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whats going on with that rear end? looks like you got the better of the two different s110 brake setups. I got the funky looking s110 calipers
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the rear end needs spacers
what u mean about 2 sets of caliperS?
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WOW
looks sick dude.
try not to hit any walls!
def. spacer. SOMEONE HOOK HIM UP!
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i found 2 spacers off a friend, there like 20 mil or something, im getting them once i get 40 bucks lol
started autozone today wehoo, it was fun
bought a valve cover gasket there, instaleld it, and also installed a used driveshaft off a friend so im back on the road, and i looped my coolant so im not leaking for the moment
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ur sig pic needs a update after the spacers go on
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he probably wouldnt even drift with a hood or the hoshinos on. hes a nancy. is that lower david? it still looks high
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i still havent lowered the rear, i decided not to until i get spacers because i an really, only go down,and not up lol
ill drift with the turbo hood if my shit doesnt overheat, and i wont drift with the hoshinos, i like drifting on 15's thank you very much
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dropped the rear another inch, i might raise the front a tad and add a 8 mill spacer
im buying 2 rear 20 mill spacers so work with me
man im not sure aboutt hese hoshino wheels, there cool, rare, i love the look, but there 14's, and trying to lower a car on 14's then go out and drift on 15's like i do, is highly annoying, not to mention my tire choices, and my contact patch
im probally going to throw them up for sale, and get some 16x8 i want a good =10 offset or something
here are the pictures
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/106_3267.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/106_3268.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/106_3269.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/106_3270.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/106_3271.jpg)
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HOLY SHIT
DAVID WASHED HIS CAR
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nice fart can, bro
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nice fart can, bro
hks bitch
tilted, inwards lol
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/107_0795.jpg)
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nice.
consider sliding on 16s is gonna be more difficult, less tires out there.
if you are talking about 16s to&from track/street use, then whatever works! I like the hoshinos but can understand the issue.
pics with spacers! take some goood pics. this will be the best your car has looked yet!
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nice.
consider sliding on 16s is gonna be more difficult, less tires out there.
if you are talking about 16s to&from track/street use, then whatever works! I like the hoshinos but can understand the issue.
pics with spacers! take some goood pics. this will be the best your car has looked yet!
im going to pop em on soon done worry
whats a good tq setting for spacers? i usually do 100 tq on my wheels
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spacers on, i might add another 5 mill i dunno
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/1-5.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/3-4.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/2-2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/4-3.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/5-2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/108_3284.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/108_3285.jpg)
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damn david, nice pics. the car looks cleaner than evar!!!! the stance is nice too:) i like
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thanks
i got to take alot of pics before i destroy it drifting!
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nicely done sir
dont be afraid to slide the hoshinos
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nicely done sir
dont be afraid to slide the hoshinos
i know right, look @ iggys wheels he slides on:0
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damn david
shits looking gangster!
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thanks guys
i found 4 more hoshinos, locally! but there 750 dollars for the set. lol there 14x7.5 -2 offset
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Looks good. Whats the deal with your other s12? I have only seen you upgrading this one recently.
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he sold it
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Looks good. Whats the deal with your other s12? I have only seen you upgrading this one recently.
it is gone with the wind
i needed room and money for my next vehicle, i want a 80's tacoma se to haul shit and tow my car on a dolley
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lol if you wanna tow your car a pretaco wont do it, esp an 80s 4cyl
youll prob need like a t100 v6 at least
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lol if you wanna tow your car a pretaco wont do it, esp an 80s 4cyl
youll prob need like a t100 v6 at least
do you not know want a tacoma se is?
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u gonna haul a nissan with a toyota? c'mon now get a frontier with VG. Supercharged even better
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haha A 1986 toyota truck with 35's on a stock engine towed a 300zx turbo on a car trailer (kinda lol) up some crazy hills and what not on the road to my house. The 4's can do it, but the 6 would be better lol.
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u gonna haul a nissan with a toyota? c'mon now get a frontier with VG. Supercharged even better
a tacoma se, is a vg isnt it?
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i modded my body today
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/11.jpg)
shoo that took some sanding
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a tacoma se, is a vg isnt it?
I take it you're joking, since a VG is a Nissan engine and a Tacoma is a Toyota truck.
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duh
lol. dude i saw a longbed 80's toyota, with a cab? yesterday, what r those?
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Depends, some had V6's, some didn't.... the 80's Toy pickups were hardy but certainly not powerhouses. That didn't happen until the Tacoma and the 3.4L DOHC V6 engine.
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Late in the thread, but what size tire are you running on those 14's?
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i forgot, but up front is like mad retarded 195 65's but there yokohomas with lots of tread so i needed them temp
and the rear is like 195 60 fuzions
hey guys i have a question, could i FLIP my hoshino wheels inside out? the centerpeice, coul i unbolt it, and bolt it back up inside out?
i wouldnt drive on it, but i want too lol and see how cool it looks, but i woulndt do it if it were to damage my car
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i forgot, but up front is like mad retarded 195 65's but there yokohomas with lots of tread so i needed them temp
and the rear is like 195 60 fuzions
hey guys i have a question, could i FLIP my hoshino wheels inside out? the centerpeice, coul i unbolt it, and bolt it back up inside out?
i wouldnt drive on it, but i want too lol and see how cool it looks, but i woulndt do it if it were to damage my car
It'll severely damage the rims...
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haha okay, i was wondering if it was possible, i wanted to see the ridiculousness
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fuck eletronics... im so sick of this shit... i missed a whole drift event... over 1 god damn plug
i got a sweet new gangster light setup
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0798.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0797.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0796.jpg)
some work is going to get done.. i am angry.. and im taking it out on my car... goodbye interior lol
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started removal, of ALL of the interior.. and i put in some speakers
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0800.jpg)
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David lol, get a scraper and scrape that sound deadening rubber shit off. That will make you not bored anymore, and when your done, you'll be so tired you wont believe it.
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so you took the weight out, and then put it right back in. hmmm
nice zed bike
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so you took the weight out, and then put it right back in. hmmm
nice zed bike
lol... i need some tunes. i think the speakers weigh a total of my lunch
David lol, get a scraper and scrape that sound deadening rubber shit off. That will make you not bored anymore, and when your done, you'll be so tired you wont believe it.
i live next to a oxygen store im getting dry ice
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cleaned up some wiring, started to make a light dash,weighs about half of the stock dash, i need to cut more and cut a hole for the tach etc. will all be in the dash
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0800-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0801.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0802.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0803.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0804.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0805.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0806.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0807.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0808.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0809.jpg)
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The striped tape makes me giggle.
Everyone there looks stoned out of their gourd. That makes me giggle too.
Keep it up! I couldn't do that, it's 56 degrees here right now, middle of july. I need heat....
Vir?
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Vir?
4.5 hours away, a different set of all new road courses south va.. saturday
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4.5 hours away, a different set of all new road courses south va.. saturday
Road courses are sexy, as long as they're real road courses. I have USAIR in shawano and road america up here that are my badass tracks. and they're both VERY badass. Just both are a good drive for me. USAIR isn't so bad at an hourish, but road america is around 2 and a half.
Sorry, I won't go that far unless she's trailered
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vir is virginia international raceway. depending on which road course they are letting you run its one of the most technical and challenging tracks to drive.
the oak tree bend puts many a racer into the wall.
the patriot course (inner run) is the drifting course usually, its worth getting there.
I loved going there last year in october with nico.
david get videos or photos, especially if they let you setup in the actual pits instead of the drift paddock
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vir is virginia international raceway. depending on which road course they are letting you run its one of the most technical and challenging tracks to drive.
the oak tree bend puts many a racer into the wall.
the patriot course (inner run) is the drifting course usually, its worth getting there.
I loved going there last year in october with nico.
david get videos or photos, especially if they let you setup in the actual pits instead of the drift paddock
will do. ive heard lots and seen videos of vir, it sounds amazing
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0811.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0812.jpg)
made a right side dash mount. the left is resting on the steering colum, ill cut out room so it can go up and down, and make a left mount. the mounts im making are bendable metal, so i bend them so they hold the dash, once i get the m bent in perfect place ill gusset them and then bolt them back in
then at the end ill paint the dash black
and lol, heres the sticker on the galvanized metal
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0813.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0814.jpg)
project skyline ftw
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dohc spark plug wires work on sohc.... AWESOME
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0817.jpg)
wired up the msd igition, i wont solder or mess with anymore until i attempt a start tomorrow
what a mess
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0818.jpg)
bought a mechanical temp gauge, by accidet... will that work or should i return and get a eletronic one..
and bought some 14 dollar brake shoes from work.. lol. thats all they had
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/109_0819.jpg)
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a mechanical one would work just fine
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Ebay plug wires I spot. Let me know how those work out in about 3 months. I've had about 10 friends have them fail in short order.
Get electrical gauges, More accurate and much less of a pain in the ass. I like only wires going through my firewall.
and who's that girl thats leaning over you in that pic on zilvia!? When I come down there me and my old lady want to meet her and take her to the nearest hotel. Dayum!
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and who's that girl thats leaning over you in that pic on zilvia!? When I come down there me and my old lady want to meet her and take her to the nearest hotel. Dayum!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/LOLawesome.jpg)
and ill keep the old spark plugs with me just in case
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I honestly can not tell if she finds you funny, or is jsut about to smack you for laying on that cars hood.
either way, good luck
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I honestly can not tell if she finds you funny, or is jsut about to smack you for laying on that cars hood.
either way, good luck
lol it was staged, the photographer told me to make a pose with her
dude... that hood was on fire... so hot.. the sr just finsihed like 3 runs and i hopped on it
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still havent cleaned the car sicne vir, but took a few pictures after the garage got cleaned it feels good to actually fit the car in there
i could use a wax. lots of scratches. but. im not into that type of labor right now lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/1-6.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/2-3.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/3-5.jpg)
still not low enough!!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3298.jpg)
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Looks great David, Does the dash reflect alot of sun.... looks like it could be hazardous. Wire brush wheel would probably fix the problem.
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Looks great David, Does the dash reflect alot of sun.... looks like it could be hazardous. Wire brush wheel would probably fix the problem.
i painted the top part flat black 20 min before i went on track
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if anyone doesnt remember the previous owner stripped the steering colum thread for the wheel, i had impacted a jeep lugnut on there to hold my hub in efforts to keep the wheel hub on and continue to drift
DO NOT BUY CHEAP HUBS!!! lmao!
the gears, on the hub stripped?!?!?! mid drift....
luckly... the guy with the whiplash drift truck happened to have a gas welder and there was a power source nearby for it.... never gas welded before
just to get 4.5 hours home home we did this
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3302.jpg)
went to the yard and got a new colum shaft... very simple to remove
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3306.jpg)
<3 this haha
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3309.jpg)
going to ods 1/8 mile to break my car or something tomorrow. gotta beat 9.92
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Gas welders are way better than flux core! just to throw that in.... Nice temporary fix, though but you forgot the duck tape and zip ties FTMFW. How did the event go other than that miss hap?
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Gas welders are way better than flux core! just to throw that in.... Nice temporary fix, though but you forgot the duck tape and zip ties FTMFW. How did the event go other than that miss hap?
my terminal in my bay that goes to my rear battery mount grounded and exploded. i replaced that, my hard wired fuel pump line stopped working? replaced that. (brought a spool of wire lol) and i overheated, im pretty sure i overheated due to a kink in my heat core bypass line
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David! The car is looking sweet. I haven't looked at you thread in forever and it looks like your doing some sweet stuff!!
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shouldve left the wrench on there
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lol the colum shaft was 7 dollars
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your dash looks like dicks, btw
TOTAL DICKS
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your dash looks like dicks, btw
TOTAL DICKS
Is that good or bad?
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3327.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3329.jpg)
trying to keep "cool" from the summer heat
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very niiice
prob for a super good price too as always haha
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i heart you so very much right now
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very niiice
prob for a super good price too as always haha
the koyohad a pinhole leak i jb welded.. if that doesnt qwork ill get it aluminum welded back.. but the pinhole is uber small... i got that for 40 dollars off my friend who ended up geting a mishumoto
the resivor was free off a s13 i watched wreck into the woods and he totaled his car and i got it off the scene
and the hose was like 15 -20% my discount at autozone
hey ka guys!..... does anyone want the part number for that hose??!!? it worked great after cutting it some.. i spent all day looking for it at the zone. to use for sr rads since its on the other side.. prob only would work for e fans maybe... i think it could hit a clutch fan.. ill get the number tomorrow
does a stock sr T stat work in a kae? would it help?
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3330.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3331.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3333.jpg)
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where is your hatch
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where is your hatch
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hes going to ziptie a tarp to the back
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im just going to pop it off every event if i like it after a first try, it comes off very easy, 4 bolts, in the ceiling
weighs about 5 pounds
(jk)
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wow 43 pages is alot of nonsense
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lots of cleaning up to do. took some pictures
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3337.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3338.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3339.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3340.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3341.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3342.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3343.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3344.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3345.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3346.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3348.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3349.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3350.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3351.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3352.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3353.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3354.jpg)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQcsN686Zv0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQcsN686Zv0)
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I see you have a cracked rear taillight, would you like a mk2 rear conversion set up for 220 shipped?
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I see you have a cracked rear taillight, would you like a mk2 rear conversion set up for 220 shipped?
lmao u think id spend that kind of money on a grill vent piece i tapped my rear into drifting? hell no! you should have seen how close i was to this wall i tapped it! it was actually part of a sign on it, pretty radical
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bought some more used shit for 25 dollars yes lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3355.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/110_3356.jpg)
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Lol @ no rear hatch. I like the aluminum dash board. That came out pretty good.
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Lol @ no rear hatch. I like the aluminum dash board. That came out pretty good.
its galvanized steel i beleive, but thin shit. it collects dust and u can draw smiley faces on it also
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without the hatch from the side, it resembles a ae86 coupe.
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but i forgot! the code of the s12..... NOTHING BOLTS IN!
cylinder one, or whichever exaust port closest to the steering colum that goes to the rack, hits the colum at the joint like if i turn the wheel i can get it to fit in but i need to cut and reweld the manifold so it sits about 1/4 inch away from the rack, its so close of a fit, but not a serious problem, just got to cut the pipe section off, and pivot it, and find a small piece that i can reroute it too, trying to keep in mind i dont want to change the design of them
have to find someone that can weld better then me, or, just man up and do it my self, which ill probally end up doing
part of the downpipe actually rests on the floor of the car, i either A extend the downpipe, or B hammer it in some, which ill probally just grab my hammer
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hammer that bitch! haha
looks good as always.
the header thing is a know issue with the ka in these cars. can't beat the price tho.
maybe next year if you are still rocking this thing I build you a new simplified harness.
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hammer that bitch! haha
looks good as always.
the header thing is a know issue with the ka in these cars. can't beat the price tho.
maybe next year if you are still rocking this thing I build you a new simplified harness.
if you do one for a sr id pay you
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i heated the tube and hammered it in a slight tad, it doesnt touch but i know it will rub because my engine shakes alot, so im going to cake some poly urathane around them tonight, and also add a brace on the other side to keep it from moving over
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i heated the tube and hammered it in a slight tad, it doesnt touch but i know it will rub because my engine shakes alot, so im going to cake some poly urathane around them tonight, and also add a brace on the other side to keep it from moving over
Hockey pucks. No brace. Good as gold
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if i use pucks it will be worse and the headers will sit on the rack, but can i make a brace? is that bad to brace it on once side. from block to chassis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sFQsJ4EtXU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sFQsJ4EtXU)
runs, very rich!
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if i use pucks it will be worse and the headers will sit on the rack, but can i make a brace? is that bad to brace it on once side. from block to chassis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sFQsJ4EtXU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sFQsJ4EtXU)
runs, very rich!
Braces are useless. The shocks they have on ebay are gimmicks, and if you decide to do a solid one, All you end up doing is bending the shit out of the shock tower, strut bolts, or whatever you attach it to. Watched it too many times. Your best bet is mounts, and trust me. Hockey pucks will make drifting much easier.
Or use chain to prevent the block from torquing over. Those give way and prevent body damage. That's a tried and true method used many a time on hot rods and big ol v8's
Make a trans mount to. Poly will work fine for that.
Here's another idea for you. Get some mapp gas, and heat up the top elbows on the header. Closest bends to the manifold. and use a tube (NOT A HAMMER) to bend them down slightly, that will tuck the headers closer to you block, and out of the way of the column. Take the headers out to do this. Or heat them up, and push on them with a jack or something to bend them, but that may bend or pull the studs out of the head.
Then do pucks
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looks great david. How much the hatch weigh?
cut and reweld headers. bending and hammering will only decrease flow.
oh and that pic of the whole header... that should be ur entire exhaust system. Hell Yeah!
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looks great david. How much the hatch weigh?
cut and reweld headers. bending and hammering will only decrease flow.
oh and that pic of the whole header... that should be ur entire exhaust system. Hell Yeah!
the hatch weighs enough... takes 2 people to remove...
made a exuast flange... im excited
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SR harness is separate from chassis harness and would be easy to do.
Hatch is a shade under 80lbs, its in someones sig line.
Pucks will drop the motor down and probably cause more interference. I like the poly idea...
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. I like the poly idea...
ive gotten like 3 different tubes and none of them came out hard... anyone recomend something that will get stiff??
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ive gotten like 3 different tubes and none of them came out hard... anyone recomend something that will get stiff??
Then you got the wrong tubes I'm guessing.
Part number is 08609. I've found that in my town, buying the tube at advance auto parts was a different part number, and not the "Super fast urethane" that you need in order for it to cure in less than a month. I always have to get it at the zone
Another option, is from home depot. It's called "PL Roofing Polyurethane"
Either one works. But also, It took a 13 hours of baking in a toaster oven at 150 to cure to the core for me, It will take a full 24 to cure at outside temp.
Here's a pic of doing mine. Tore em in half, Cleaned out the oil or whatever, Filled the insides, and pretty much made the whole thing a solid chunk of polyurethane. It turned out quite good. Those two stains on the driveway are still there. That's okay though. My landlords already hated me at this point
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/Phreakonaleash55/DSCN0238.jpg)
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/111B0842.jpg)
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5746.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5748.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5749.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5750.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5751.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5754.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5764.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5770.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/IMG_5777.jpg)
changed the oil etc. getting all the little things kinda fixed before saturdays event, changed oil, and gonna wash it soon its very dirty lol
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this car is dope shit.
super jealous of your header.
the vintage plates make the car, for sure! i want vintage plates
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thanks this car has came a long way from this lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_1801-1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_2094.jpg)
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theres a shirtless chick and youre taking pictures of the car???
gayfail
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theres a shirtless chick and youre taking pictures of the car???
gayfail
lol...
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/111_0851.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/111_0852.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/111_0853.jpg)
24 hours to cure!
put my $10 ebay sock on.. to keep the water and grass off wehoo
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/111_0858.jpg)
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sweet fisheye. go shoot some bmx
window weld is non hardening and will be stupid sticky forever. and if you came to vegas ur mounts would be gooey puddles on the ground lol
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sweet fisheye. go shoot some bmx
window weld is non hardening and will be stupid sticky forever. and if you came to vegas ur mounts would be gooey puddles on the ground lol
I don't know what you speak of. It hardened for me just fine, nearly every time. Here's a pic of my CA20 Mount pulled apart.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/Phreakonaleash55/DSCN0602.jpg)
It does harden, and it does work well. BUT!
David, You didn't pull the mount out and cut it apart. What you have done is wrap poly around it. Which is next to pointless. The oil filled cavity that is the motor mount is still open, and will still flex. Not as much, but you probably only hardened it by 15%, instead of 65%. That is IF it decides to stick to the mount. Also, they're being put under the compression of the motor. If you want a stiffer mount, they need to be filled without the weight of the motor on it.
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When you get some money I would recommend the Nismo motor mounts unless you want something really stiff. I have them on my s13 and they are great for a daily driver and are only about 100 bucks for the pair. I got the tranny mount with it as well for 150 and its so much better than the horrible stock mounts. For your track slut though I doubt your gonna spend 100 bucks on just the motor mounts .
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yeah iggy, plenty of people use window weld and have great results. maybe you got a bad batch?
only thing that sucks is, i can never find it, the local homedepot doesnt seem to carry it.
a loews just opened up, i havent checked there yet.
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yeah iggy, plenty of people use window weld and have great results. maybe you got a bad batch?
only thing that sucks is, i can never find it, the local homedepot doesnt seem to carry it.
a loews just opened up, i havent checked there yet.
i got mine at autozone..
and jay wrapping poly around it, or w/e you call it, did wonders it worked very well i am pleased..
i jacked up the engine from the oil pan before i added it also
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heres a viewing of the suspension and how well its been doing, the home threaded tie rods are also doing well also, changing the tie rod ends was a breeze, good to know.. also got rid of some toe out on the front right it was kinda ridiculous
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3340.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3341.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3342.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3343.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3344.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3345.jpg)
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fun!
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another s chassis at my house has arrived for awhile
so now at my house currently
s12-mine
s12-leegamers
s13-sids wrecked one
s14-sids cousins
and.. sids new s13 coupe roller shell is on the way
making that 5
but.. as of TODAY a new s13 here for awhile... just for me to hold.. in return i get the crappy running auto sohc ka out of it... i have to pull it... then its getting towed to ohio
ka24et build???
seems feasible
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3346.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3347.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3348.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3349.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3350.jpg)
icant popped the hood ebcasue it was dropped off while i was sleeping and my friend has the keys.. the owner is at school in ohio
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ka24et build???
YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES and YES!
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What's that "Virginia State Police Association 2002" sticker all about?
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What's that "Virginia State Police Association 2002" sticker all about?
lol hopefully it wont get towed
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can i use this?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3360.jpg)
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Yes, but pointless
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Yes, but pointless
well my friend sold it to me for 25 dollars... never used.. and my s13 friend wants ignition coil.. so im selling my stock one for 15
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sell him the msd for 35.
make $10 and dont fuck with what works fine, instead of spending $10 to put on useless crap.
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well if i ever swap to like kat or sr cant i use all my iginition shit like this and the box etc?
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well if i ever swap to like kat or sr cant i use all my iginition shit like this and the box etc?
Once again, that box you picked up, and that coil. are useless for a KA-T until you reach 400 hp.
the stock ignition system is great, and I have tested stock KA coils that put out >50k Volts. Which is more than any MSD I've ever seen put out.
And SR's use Coil On Plug setups. So no, if you go SR you can't use either the box or the coil until you go standalone. and completely balls out with the motor.
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i see... well my ignition cut is making me mad.. ive been trying to replace it all to see if it will stop
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i see... well my ignition cut is making me mad.. ive been trying to replace it all to see if it will stop
Ignition cut? There is no ignition cut on the KA.
Are you talking the rev limiter @ 7k ish?
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Ignition cut? There is no ignition cut on the KA.
Are you talking the rev limiter @ 7k ish?
noo 3rd gear and 4th and 5thmy shit cuts around 4-5 k on load.. reason why i tap the gas alot
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isn't the red line on the ka's only like 5500 anyway?
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noo 3rd gear and 4th and 5thmy shit cuts around 4-5 k on load.. reason why i tap the gas alot
That sounds like the ECU is getting pissed that it doesn't know how fast it's going to me.
Is all of the wiring on your transmission still hooked up, but using the S12's Speedo gear and cable?
The SOHC get's pissy when it knows it's going fast, but doesn't know just how fast.. Disconnect all the connectors on the transmission (so it never knows what gear it's in) and give her a shot
Another option is to throw in an automatic's ecu. That may do somethin for ya
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That sounds like the ECU is getting pissed that it doesn't know how fast it's going to me.
Is all of the wiring on your transmission still hooked up, but using the S12's Speedo gear and cable?
The SOHC get's pissy when it knows it's going fast, but doesn't know just how fast.. Disconnect all the connectors on the transmission (so it never knows what gear it's in) and give her a shot
Another option is to throw in an automatic's ecu. That may do somethin for ya
i did disconnect the... hmm... theres a auto ka outside my house in the s13 haha
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i did disconnect the... hmm... theres a auto ka outside my house in the s13 haha
Do it. It's yours anyway. The auto ECU will have a 99.999999 percent chance of solving that.
Plus, when you need to move it, It's 5 minutes to pull it out of your car, and plug it back in to the S13
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Do it. It's yours anyway. The auto ECU will have a 99.999999 percent chance of solving that.
Plus, when you need to move it, It's 5 minutes to pull it out of your car, and plug it back in to the S13
i cant use a manual one in the s13? the only time its getting moved is fromt he street to my garage when i pull it
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i cant use a manual one in the s13? the only time its getting moved is fromt he street to my garage when i pull it
I don't think so. I'm pretty sure something about the manual one flips out and goes haywire. But it can't hurt to try.
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david i had the same problem with the ka i swapped into that old hardbody of mine.
it feels like it just shuts off right? and then all of a sudden comes back on?
auto ecu seemed to fix it, and another guy on the truck forums had the same experience.
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david i had the same problem with the ka i swapped into that old hardbody of mine.
it feels like it just shuts off right? and then all of a sudden comes back on?
auto ecu seemed to fix it, and another guy on the truck forums had the same experience.
yea.. ill try it.
and im keeping my blaster 2 coil because it will look ricey and fast.. lol
10.2 mill plug wires
ngk plugs
headers
msd sci ig box
msd ig coil
3 inch exuast hks muffler
i bet that gives me 5 hp!
so far that cost me about 120 dollars
(http://www.optionracing.com/img/website/20071123071434.HD-502.jpg)
ahhh found my 25 dollar used no name header
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Sick progress, like the pics. Much <3 to how many S chassis you have in your current possession.
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k i probally dont need the coil... its unopened... so ill sell it lol. maybe try to return it at autozone for store credit! did some reading on the ig system... might as well keep the box... but ill leave the coil alone
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bought my first set of tires
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3361.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3362.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/112_3364.jpg)
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Those tires are good. A bunch of my friends always run those and love them. The car is looking sweet these days I also think it surprisingly looks really sweet with the no hatch! :-)
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Those tires are good. A bunch of my friends always run those and love them. The car is looking sweet these days I also think it surprisingly looks really sweet with the no hatch! :-)
If thats the case then You guys are going to love what I have planned for my track hatch.
Driving without the hatch is fun. Nice and breezy with no cross winds
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yea its like a convertable
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where u get the azenis and how much?
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noo 3rd gear and 4th and 5thmy shit cuts around 4-5 k on load.. reason why i tap the gas alot
do you have a genuine nissan dist cap and rotor? aftermarket caps suck ass, they shit out all the time. take the cap off and check that the terminals arent burnt up or corroded.
do you possibly think too, that maybe the stock fuel pump cuts out on you? hillkill had problems when being sideways in higher gears like yours. his car would cut out on him then come back. i think he ended up figuring out his gas was being swooshed around and not making it into the pump.
just 2 things to check
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where u get the azenis and how much?
83 a piece at vulcantire.com...
91 a peice at discounttiredirect.com w/ free shipping
Bout the same anywhere iggy
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vulcan shipping was awesome... but there place were they sent it from was in pa
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yea its like a convertable
Drove around with no glass in the back for awhile, and no rear quarter windows and no sunroof.... awhile like 6 months. It was an adventure. Rain sucked though, walmart car covers are crap.
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got dem junks mounted.. need more offset and moar lowar and some cleaning
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3380.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3381.jpg)
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hahahaha.
Photobucket fail
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shit you cant view them1!? i think i filled my p bucket account for the month till the 14th... l;ol fuckk
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shit you cant view them1!? i think i filled my p bucket account for the month till the 14th... l;ol fuckk
It's the photo in your sig. Guaranteed
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I seen them earlier, you has dirty tires
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David whats going on, Progress????? YOU alive lol. Not like you to go this long without posting. And those falkens are nice tires, friend runs then on his s2k and there STICKY.
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David whats going on, Progress????? YOU alive lol. Not like you to go this long without posting. And those falkens are nice tires, friend runs then on his s2k and there STICKY.
im alive.. cars been doing great. i ran over my filter and MAF so i had to get a new one etc. car runs spectacular
I GOT RID OF THE IGNITION CUT, it was indeed the #10 manual ecu.. i swapped in the #11 auto and now it runs great, i can hit the rpm limiter now it feels great lol
issues to work on
RUST, getting worse, going to get on sanding and painting/filling those areas
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3496.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3497.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3498.jpg)
i got mudflaps to throw on to cover those areas though
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3495.jpg)
and SE sideskirts coming in the mail on the 18th
i redid my intake cut it a tad shorter so i dont lose it etc.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3486.jpg)
some drift damage, ill eventually get all the little pieces fixed, from tapping the rear agaisnt stuff but i think it looks bad ass regardless lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3499.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3500.jpg)
jb weld in the radiator is working great
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3492.jpg)
i got a S13 dash i want to try to fit, since my metal one is getting annoying
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3482.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3483.jpg)
i KNOW its ghetto, ill get washers in there soon, but as a temp fix before last event this works great so i clear the steering colum with the headers
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3491.jpg)
some mo pics
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3487.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3489.jpg)
lost my oil cap last event for a few runs, went home and got another one since i live close lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3484.jpg)
LMAO, my friend came running up and said.. DUDE, your hoodscoop is leaking oil!
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Sick update.
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Sick update.
SICKNESS DUDE
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Great that you got things running well. Just a tip, pick up some osfo. its this acid stuff you have probably heard of, kills rust and stops it from spreading and when it dries its paint able!
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WOW your engine mount spacer is... absolutely priceless.
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when the drift calls, u gotta do what u gotta do to perform your best lol
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when the drift calls, u gotta do what u gotta do to perform your best lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3491.jpg)
Hey man, If I needed to, I would totally rock that setup for functionality's sake.
+1 for ingenuity
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husy tools suck at tools anyways. they make better spacers lol.
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I like my husky tools
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After I saw the new pair of Azenis you got I was confused till I realized you were gonna use them for the fronts. Sure enough when I scrolled down you mounted them on your fronts. I was gonna get a set of the Azenis for grip driving but they are kinda spendy and the tread life is just way to low for me to justify the price. For you though I think they are perfect as it is a track only car and is not daily driven to put excess wear on them. If money wasn't such an issue that is definitely what I would go with but I will probably have to opt for a little bit harder tire with longer tread life sadly. Either way anything I get will beat the value brand Warrior's I bought the car with hahaha.
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After I saw the new pair of Azenis you got I was confused till I realized you were gonna use them for the fronts. Sure enough when I scrolled down you mounted them on your fronts. I was gonna get a set of the Azenis for grip driving but they are kinda spendy and the tread life is just way to low for me to justify the price. For you though I think they are perfect as it is a track only car and is not daily driven to put excess wear on them. If money wasn't such an issue that is definitely what I would go with but I will probably have to opt for a little bit harder tire with longer tread life sadly. Either way anything I get will beat the value brand Warrior's I bought the car with hahaha.
Go on tire rack and order some 215/40/16 sumitomo's they are actually exceptional. (And JDM lul)
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3521.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3522.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3523.jpg)
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heres the t25 and the t28
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3524.jpg)
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Nice snails!
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(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1MTA6acmDjE/SmY1iYpLA_I/AAAAAAAABnY/kWH0GQPayog/s800/IMG_3702.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_1MTA6acmDjE/SmY1h3QQQ8I/AAAAAAAABnU/Q5Bos6FeAYg/s800/IMG_3701.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1MTA6acmDjE/SmY1ixORAzI/AAAAAAAABnc/lIjVPXTWsvU/s800/IMG_3703.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1MTA6acmDjE/SmY0z5e1FoI/AAAAAAAABno/kIY8tvYyYYs/s800/IMG_3698.jpg)
i bought this, will it work? if it doesnt i can return it to my friend, it was 70 bux
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With what your planning to do, It will work just fine.
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(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/sk8punkdrumbum/DSCN0895.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/sk8punkdrumbum/DSCN0896.jpg)
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One little tidbit about that manifold that you should do before installing it. Relief cut the plate between the runners. That will prevent it from cracking due to thermal expansion (which is hit or miss with the XSPOWER and SSAUTOCHROME manifolds.)
That's it!
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/IMG_1265.jpg)
Not me, but shows what I mean^
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are those cuts all the way through? it seems like the sides, are just halfway cut
i saw that picture somewhere
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The win-ness of David's car is going to go up, significantly.
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So where are some pics of the ka24de? Or is that not getting picked up till later?
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good shit man. turbo KA for the win.
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looking good. hey man ill be in norfolk picking up my new dd 97 kouki on saturday!
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So where are some pics of the ka24de? Or is that not getting picked up till later?
i gotta pull it from the s13 in woodbridge about 15 minutes from me.. first i need a clutch pedal, and a brake pedal; to give to him
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are those cuts all the way through? it seems like the sides, are just halfway cut
i saw that picture somewhere
Yeah, they're cut all the way through. It's just the angle you're looking at it prevents you from seeing all the way through it.
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wuts wrong with add reply? it goes to a blank screen?
oh and i found a baller pic of the blue cars first event
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/sexxx.jpg)
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(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3534.jpg)
got skirts and mudflaps to install!
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david, what browser are you using? i have no problems with firefox or ie.
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anyone got a writeup on this? using a t25 actuator on a t28, i got a free one. came otu of a friends coupe, after he bought it justchillin in the back
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3535-1.jpg)
getting ready for sunday drift event also
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mmmmmmm That is some good looking gum right there.
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is that a health insurance card?
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Dood that calculator is Bomb as fuck
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are you sure thats a calculator? or a wallet?
good to know im not the only one that enjoys pudding
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It is for sure a calculator, but did you see that tape measure in the background? I bet that shit gets up to 25ft!
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you guys realize thats a phone, right?
my friend has one.
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Boo to that, Evny's are ghey.
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lol thats my wallet and my phone
and that cup isnt pudding, its a tufferware tub that holds my lip rings
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3536.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3537.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3545.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3546.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3547.jpg)
if it doesnt hold ill just ziptie em shut
none of you guys noticed my wallpaper??? lul
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wuts wrong with add reply? it goes to a blank screen?
oh and i found a baller pic of the blue cars first event
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/sexxx.jpg)
dirt drop drift!!!
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got one side on, man i shoulda just paid the extra shipping and had them not cut in half, it kinda lined up, i had to sneak some e tape between a crack but its a drift car?
there nice and secure, self tapping screws ftw
need to put the hoshinos on with the spacers in the rear
this pic would be awesome if i closed the door all the way!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3549.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3550.jpg)
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is anyone feelin this? i sure am
i went back and closed my door lol
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/sick.jpg)
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is anyone feelin this? i sure am
I'm Feelin it!!! That looks awesome!!! I wish my wheels fit that good!!! and the side skirts look good too!
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damn looking good can't wait to get some coilovers and get some dope flushness
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(http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/5963/bitch.png)
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its not a pudding cup lol
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you sir have some ugly ass tupperwear then.
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you sir have some ugly ass tupperwear then.
Or some interesting fetish for prepackaged applesauce from the early 90's...
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anyone got a writeup on this? using a t25 actuator on a t28, i got a free one. came otu of a friends coupe, after he bought it justchillin in the back
KadeT is a sick build. Going to be fast.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3581.jpg)
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I WANT ONE (actually, two.)
how much how much how much
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lol my friend made it for me
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That's fucking sick. I hate stickers but I like that little feller. He's mighty cute.
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i made it on flash lol
i used to have that spray painted on my hood
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KadeT is a sick build. Going to be fast.
Did I miss something? I thought it was a KA singlecam. ??
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Did I miss something? I thought it was a KA singlecam. ??
i bought a dual cam. its in the car still, next day off i pull it. i gave him a clutch pedal and a brake pedal as the full payment lol
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3587.jpg)
free wheelz
15x7 +24
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those things look torn the hell up man. What'd the previous owner do? lol.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3581.jpg)
New club s-12 mascot?
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i turboed lees ka!
well, i have to figure out, how to clock the turbo right? to get everything to work. right now it aims the turbo at the engine bracket for the motor mount
blahblah
<3 my kodak easyshare lul
and i the t25 actuator/ im going to make a bracket and make dat shit wurk
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3588.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3589.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3590.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3591.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3592.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3593.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3594.jpg)
and got a fire extinguisher
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Good luck with that XSPower manifold. I've been running my KA-T s12 for a year now and I've had to pull it off twice now to weld BIG cracks in that thing . . . I would do a cast mani if I was doing it again. . .
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Good luck with that XSPower manifold. I've been running my KA-T s12 for a year now and I've had to pull it off twice now to weld BIG cracks in that thing . . . I would do a cast mani if I was doing it again. . .
lul. i have a welder
put about 30 min into the wheels, sanded some of the curb rash. theres so much curb rash. there free. with my 2 inch spacers on +24 offset they be dope regardless lul
ill sand some more out soon
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3601.jpg)
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the 14's look dumb with the 15's up front haha
ineed a sunroof. since mine is gone
and look at my 3 g unit mobiles. and the ride height difference hahaha
i think i found someone to buy the beaner wheels on the truck
i want a 10 mill spacer, or maybe 12 up front too with some camber
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3609.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3610.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3611.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3612.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3613.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3614.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3617.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3618.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3619.jpg)
and some stuff for the new truck
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3620.jpg)
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Sweet fire extinguisher bra!
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some girl gave it to me lol
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threw sids vented rotors on, and his pads on too. wehoo
"hawk pads"?? are they alright?
and getting my car ready for the trans swap if needed, and i noticed im missing a swaybar bracket bolt, i also am going to redo a section of the exust if i get some time, making it a full 3 inch exuast from the headers back
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3627.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3628.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3629.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3630.jpg)
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garage organize... COMMENCE!
made shelves!!! home depot sells wood for pretty cheaaap
some stuff for the turbo build/swap. i have a long road to go.. s110 calipers and cool tyte stuff
missing in the pic is mu clutch... i get dat tomorrow
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3631.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3632.jpg)
i plan to fill this shelf with turbo goodness
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Hawks are VERY good brake pads. I run them on my autoX cars. excellent heat dissipation and very good at preventing brake fade.
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Hawks are VERY good brake pads. I run them on my autoX cars. excellent heat dissipation and very good at preventing brake fade.
well sweet. they have like 60 percent life in them
im gonna change my brake shoes in the rear also before i swap to calipers because i wanna learn how to do shoes. and it should accomadate for having the vented rotors in the front with the haw pads
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kinda got sick of the metal dash. and paranoid people talking smackk
so i threw a s13 one in
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0856.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0858.jpg)\
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0860.jpg)
also unloaded a roll of eletrical tape into the wiring
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What happened to your stock dash? Or did you just not want to throw it back in
If that's the case. Fair enough answer
And damn, That passenger seat looks bent/broken to hell. Nice job!
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i just wanetd to see if the s13 one would fit
the s12 stock dash is higher then the s13 one, so i had to cut the lower portion off. and it was about 2 inches too wide. so i had to also clip the passenger side a tad.
got it all zip tied in and shit. i like it
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Haha. Nice.
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yea. i have alot of s13 parts invested in my car lol
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yea. i have alot of s13 parts invested in my car lol
Function > Fashion
If you can see better (which I can easily see the case being). It's definitely function, with the possibility of fashion. Dual action badassness
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fuck fender rollers that are expensive and hard to borrow. and fuck jack poles. they arent enough
plus im by myself, kinda hard to move the car with a thicker pole
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0861.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0862.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0863.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0864.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0865.jpg)
i got it to finally come out a tad more. pretty much dropping my car onto blocks=win
its smooth, the dirt just makes it look bad
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great build thread so far! and about the hawk brake pads - they're great! i run them on my ae86
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nice.
the fact that there is a welded edge there where two layers of steel come together make rolling the rear wheel openings on an s12 a bitch. nice solution.
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nice.
the fact that there is a welded edge there where two layers of steel come together make rolling the rear wheel openings on an s12 a bitch. nice solution.
yess. this is a track car. i just dont want to rub. i rubbed so bad last time. i had to remove the spacers because i would straighten out like open diff
we previously rolled it, 3 people in the back of the car, 3 people pushing, me rolling. but it wasnt enough with the thick jack pole we used
lower profile tires arent a option for me since i dont buy tires. my usual profile is 60 for 15 and 14's
plus this method, dropping the car on the wood as hard as i can. provides instant results haha... ill be bringing the blocks to the event incase i rub more. when i throw on other wheels
ALSO, for lowered cars. if you want to get room to slide the jack under there, carefully placing the wood there allows the frame to sit higher so you can get the jack under up farther
heres what it looks like stock
this car come a far way guys! i started with nothing. its amazing haha
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/gay.jpg)
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good work! the paint on the edge crack? mine did
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good work! the paint on the edge crack? mine did
yea, i started to heat it up with the 500 watt bulb spotlight, and i kinda messed up the pass side, you can see lots of little crinkles, but afetr i do a final roll with the jack pole again, and weight. it will be perfect
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s13 dash looks soooooooo much better.
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s13 dash looks soooooooo much better.
Do you have pics of it more complete?????
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Do you have pics of it more complete?????
naw
i need a passenger side fender.. and i think im gonna get rid of pop up headlights
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heres my free new used spec clutch
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0871.jpg)
heres my free new master clutch clyinder since mine is DONE
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0872.jpg)
heres some organization
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0873.jpg)
trying to get my garage back
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0874.jpg)
some jdm overfenders
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0877.jpg)
some mad leakage, missing valve cover bolts
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0875.jpg)
and to show how hard i drift... a broken seat!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0880.jpg)
special motorsports sunroof. extra light weight for maximum drift
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/101_0878.jpg)
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Man that special motor sports sunroof is awesome. Those don't come cheap. Hope it doesn't leak when your out in the elements or blow off while your doing 60mph tandem drifts.
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Man that special motor sports sunroof is awesome. Those don't come cheap. Hope it doesn't leak when your out in the elements or blow off while your doing 60mph tandem drifts.
well last event i drifted so hard i lost my glass one, thats why i stick with the SM one now
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs229.snc1/7633_179859634883_784144883_3780417_3598531_n.jpg)
lol. the first prototype didnt make it the way up der
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Yeah the first prototype appears to have failed. Plexiglas might be a nice longer term solution for weight and price but the special motor sports sunroof is gonna be pretty hard to beat in the weight department .
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removed damaged shit. hammered the body some. going to spot weld a few loose pieces back together. move on, haha
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0881.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0882.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0883.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0884.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0885.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0886.jpg)
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im getting s13 bricks for free, just pay shipping
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0891.jpg)
i might go along with them
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Almost the same as the black s12 thats by me
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That select motorsports sunroof is a knockoff of the good brand, Spacebag motorsports sunroof. They use a thicker plastic.
But, they works the same, whatever saves a few bucks!
I dig it
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ur car is floating whoa!
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ur car is floating whoa!
lol. after every event it goes on jackstands and stays like that
well a silvia front for a s12 doesnt exist. so im making my own silvia hood haha
right right side is coming out good. the left side was bent from the wreck, so i have been hammered some
welded the headlight covers to the hood with the lincoln, back tapped the gap in some places, and filled with 1 layer of jb weld, ill be doing another layer of jb weld, or bondo. depending on which i prefer. possibly jb weld. its stronger
then ill sand down and pain the whole hood
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0898.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0899.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0901.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/101_0902.jpg)
then i got for the s13 bricks
the c clamp is just a weight, since the passenger side is bent up, it was sticking up a 1/8 inch and wouldnt work with the jb weld
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You know those are gonna get fucked up when you hit a wall again, right?
They aren't replaceable now either.
Edit:
That's a decent approach to doing a fixed light conversion though, I didn't think there was enough room to fit a stock sized housing there.
I'm planning on doing something that's a bit between the two, fixed for low beam, popped up a small bit for high beam.
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What a waste of a (once) perfectly fine '84 turbo hood
And yeah the first thing I thought too was "drifter damage = bad idea". Custom show mods + drifting = broken expensive things.
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What a waste of a (once) perfectly fine '84 turbo hood
At least it will be original.
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What a waste of a (once) perfectly fine '84 turbo hood
And yeah the first thing I thought too was "drifter damage = bad idea". Custom show mods + drifting = broken expensive things.
gtfo, life isnt about preserving shit. im young
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gtfo, life isnt about preserving shit. im young
+1, but even if he trashes the hood, He can always pull the Scoop off the hood and use it on a different one lol
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+1, but even if he trashes the hood, He can always pull the Scoop off the hood and use it on a different one lol
yea, but then someones gonna explain the rigidity difference
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I have always been a fan of the non pop up head light look:-) Like the race silvia car. But I like your idea of the s13 bricks more than his fog light setup:-) I'm excited to see how yours turns out :-)
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+1, but even if he trashes the hood, He can always pull the Scoop off the hood and use it on a different one lol
wrong, just cutting a hole in a standard flat hood isn't enough... it has different understructure to counteract the huge hole and keep the hood straight. Otherwise the hood would probably sink in with the scoop.
Honestly I like everything else he's done to the car, this is just the first thing I haven't. So I'm not shitting on your thread David, just don't like this one thing you did to it.
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wrong, just cutting a hole in a standard flat hood isn't enough... it has different understructure to counteract the huge hole and keep the hood straight. Otherwise the hood would probably sink in with the scoop.
Honestly I like everything else he's done to the car, this is just the first thing I haven't. So I'm not shitting on your thread David, just don't like this one thing you did to it.
baby, its alright. i still love you. we have different opinions, and its alright. our distance is so far girl.... cant i sneak a few naughty things from you??
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dont you fucking cheat on me, david
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dont you fucking cheat on me, david
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<3
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wrong, just cutting a hole in a standard flat hood isn't enough... it has different understructure to counteract the huge hole and keep the hood straight. Otherwise the hood would probably sink in with the scoop.
Honestly I like everything else he's done to the car, this is just the first thing I haven't. So I'm not shitting on your thread David, just don't like this one thing you did to it.
Nahhhhh, that scoop is like 3 pounds lol. But no I understand that it is different, just saying it is something he could do and he could just weld up a little brace so it didn't flex.
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i still think these are the coolest fastest pics ive ever had so far
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6285/img3209fl.jpg)
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3471/img3208a.jpg)
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/1882/img3207l.jpg)
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the mold is like 60 percent done
i deleted the black trim on the middle portion by filling it... it didnt come out right. i dont need it be fine
also the lip, i want it perfect so i added some more filler there, ill sand down, look for any bubbles or anything, and fill that
the more i fill/sand now, the less i have to do it on the new fender
the hood is coming out sweet
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3659.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3658.jpg)
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Are you willing to made a few more and sell them?
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+1
+lol to dj's sig
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Are you willing to made a few more and sell them?
i dont trust my body work to come out correctly, but i would if they did hahah
to make the new fender, it should be about, 12 dollars in matte, maybe like 16 bux, about 20-30 dollars of resin, unless i find it cheaper in mass quanity's
and a few days to get them good...
so its already like 40-50 dollars for one fender. not included shipping, and work.
i dont think anyone would pay that much x2 for 2 fenders, and i wouldnt do it for like free haha
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sexual interactions
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/normal_IMG_9108.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/normal_IMG_9113.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/normal_IMG_9116.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/normal_IMG_9615.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/normal_IMG_9618.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/normal_IMG_9644.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/wreckedmag.jpg)
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Liking the pics...whens this thing going to be turbo damnit
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Liking the pics...whens this thing going to be turbo damnit
never!
i have broncitis, shits on a hold. paying off my truck back to my mom some
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okay here comes the dicussion of my no pop up lights
i dont like pop ups, ALOT of people do, so if im going to do this.. id like it to be sort of okay for others to view, i dont want people to look down on it
heres my options
my favorite idea
is to have them hidden, at all times... and have a slide or bolt on cover, and when i really need headlights, just slide the cover, or pop it off to have the headlight viewed
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3711.jpg)
its as easy as, cutting out and molding the headlight into here, or even have a flap over it
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3712.jpg)
or, just remove this whole marker light assembly, and install the bulb with a 1 or 2 bolt bracket.. its a track car.. i never use my lights
i dont like this look though, i think it looks way awesome, with no lights. but this would be kinda what its like, when im using them.. just for transportation to a car meet if im not trailering it
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3710.jpg)
or, i could rock doubles per side.. but i think its ugly
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3706.jpg)
what do you think guys, your opinion makes a difference on my front end
this idea has me remove the stupid non working pop ups.. i dont gotta search for miore headlight assemblies and motors when i wreck, and i dont gotta have those big ass sealed beams, this i can fab up real quick if i ever damage them
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That looks like a old cs12 member (Doritoad?) Ah here is his car domain, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/425214 (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/425214)
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try having them sink in.
Flush kinda looks funky.
i dont know, that's just me.
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I like option 3.
The two headlights you have there. recessed about an inch, with a smoked, or a mirrored one way (using mirrored window tint) cover as pictured in picture one. Best of all worlds, and not hard to make.
Just simple plexiglass, heat it up slowly with a heat gun, and make the bend. voila, covered, recessed headlights with no sliding or unbolting of cover.
But if your not willing to do that, I like the two headlights, as someone else said, recessed a little bit into it.
I like the look of that open space there, I'm rocking it. Just like you though. I don't really like the idea with the open space with lights in there.
Or, Just thought of it. Instead of bending the plexi, Cut out or separate the front plastic on that housing. That way you have it right there. remove the paint somehow. and you have your perfect lens
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heres a more simple aproach
i could make my marker lights up top as turn signals.. if i really wanted turn signals
and run the headlights in the turn signals
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3714.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3713.jpg)
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That looks like a old cs12 member (Doritoad?) Ah here is his car domain, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/425214 (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/425214)
Nah looks FAR better than DoriToad.
Ok David I will admit if you put in those tiny headlights right where the cornerlights are IT WILL LOOK GOOD, and I admit that you have a good eye for this kind of thing. I guess the only thing I was cringing over is that there are so FEW Turbo '84 hoods left in North America.
But like I said... you're doing a PROPER job of it. So for that you get mad credit.
Those drift pics you posted on the 28th are good enough for the calendar, but you'd have to get permission to use them, logo-free... we give credits at the bottom to whoever needs it but yeah those are great action shots.
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That might wind up not being legal. something like that I would actually make a call or an appointment with one of your state troopers to find out what is the legal height of the headlights for a vehicle. I know here in wi, Driving lights are defined as all of the headlight bulbs (Sealed beam, 6054, 4446, 7613, etc, and and just bulbs, 9006/9007/9004/9005 HB1 and others). and the headlight must be a minimum of 30" off the ground. Even I'm pushing it.
Your so close to getting your license back, There is something to consider with that.
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30inches?
so some stock cars need lift kits or headlight risers to be in your area?
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david, when you fix your headlights, go with the dual headlamps. looks like a s110 or something.
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That might wind up not being legal. something like that I would actually make a call or an appointment with one of your state troopers to find out what is the legal height of the headlights for a vehicle. I know here in wi, Driving lights are defined as all of the headlight bulbs (Sealed beam, 6054, 4446, 7613, etc, and and just bulbs, 9006/9007/9004/9005 HB1 and others). and the headlight must be a minimum of 30" off the ground. Even I'm pushing it.
Your so close to getting your license back, There is something to consider with that.
THIS CAR IS NOT A DAILY DRIVEN CAR, THERE IS NOTHING LEGAL ON MY CAR. AT ALL.
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THIS CAR IS NOT A DAILY DRIVEN CAR, THERE IS NOTHING LEGAL ON MY CAR. AT ALL.
BUT IT STILL GETS DRIVEN ON THE ROADS!!! IF IT WASN'T YOU WOULDN'T NEED HEADLIGHTS!!!
And the whole 30 inches thing, Cars with stock headlights get away with it.. It's in place so that you don't have your driving lights below a certain level, otherwise they qualify as fog lights. and not driving lights. My state has some stupid laws. Like getting tickets for surface rust on a wheel. And if a single part on your car is not OEM (No aftermarket), every one can be a ticket. It's just one of those things that it's something you CAN get pulled over, depending on how bad they want to talk to you
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BUT IT STILL GETS DRIVEN ON THE ROADS!!! IF IT WASN'T YOU WOULDN'T NEED HEADLIGHTS!!!
And the whole 30 inches thing, Cars with stock headlights get away with it.. It's in place so that you don't have your driving lights below a certain level, otherwise they qualify as fog lights. and not driving lights. My state has some stupid laws. Like getting tickets for surface rust on a wheel. And if a single part on your car is not OEM (No aftermarket), every one can be a ticket. It's just one of those things that it's something you CAN get pulled over, depending on how bad they want to talk to you
Reference? I've never heard that.
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listen, jay knows everything, and he'll type a lot to prove it.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3714.jpg)
When I first saw this, I thought you were gonna hide them behind the turn signals and just put some super bright lights in them lol.
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(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2320/rx7pic616cf1.png)
(http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/9095/rx7pic621gw0.jpg)
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BUT IT STILL GETS DRIVEN ON THE ROADS!!! IF IT WASN'T YOU WOULDN'T NEED HEADLIGHTS!!!
And the whole 30 inches thing, Cars with stock headlights get away with it.. It's in place so that you don't have your driving lights below a certain level, otherwise they qualify as fog lights. and not driving lights. My state has some stupid laws. Like getting tickets for surface rust on a wheel. And if a single part on your car is not OEM (No aftermarket), every one can be a ticket. It's just one of those things that it's something you CAN get pulled over, depending on how bad they want to talk to you
thanks jay, i dont really care about beuing illegal.. espeically since i have a truck to tow the car now
for now while i make the fenders, and in case i fuck up i found this gem to salvage a fender off
ill be getting it this week
thank god.
finding these on the east coast sucks.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/yyys.jpg)
im gonna get the pass mirror also
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That settles that then. But, that does look like a gem. And judging by the way the rears are recessed so far, I'm guessing an SRA too. Rob that thing blind man.
And brewster, I don't know everything. I just know what I do know, just like you. Until PROVEN otherwise. I just happen to know a lot, about a lot.
And matt. It's a variation of FMVSS No. 108: Table II. Federally the lowest it can be is 22".. But I will dig through my tome to find you the specifics on those you bolded
EDIT: Of which I located Chapter 347.09 subsection c (2). States no more than 54 inches, and no less then 24. So I was off when I said 30. But it still validates your "sarcasm" of yes, some cars DO in fact "Need" Lift kits to be driven in my area. Such as older accords and civics to name a few, that have the headlights at the EXACT level off 22" as per the FMVSS mentioned earler.
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And brewster, I don't know everything. I just think I do know. I just happen to think i know a lot, about a lot, but cant/dont prove most of it.
werd.
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well i got the fender, it has a small patch of bondo on it to cover up a whole im going to redo with jb weld... i like jb weld
and put a s13 clutch master clyinder on.... i notice that it bolts up, but the threaded pole end is too short??? anyone ever come to that conlusion?
so i cut one bracket etc. and mad it a few mill longer.. and it works fine now
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3724.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3725.jpg)
i know my welding skills arent the best haha.. its a cheap welder
tried some paint to see what else i gotta do, some more sanding etc. then it will be good
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3722.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3721.jpg)
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I put the S13 master in my S12. I just swapped the rods instead of having to weld anything.
Its sad that the s13 master and the s12 master are the same casting, and the difference in price for a new one is about 40 dollars. Because the rod length is different. It takes 3 minutes to take out a circlip and swap parts.
Sigh. The powers that be setup the prices that rob...
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w/e it took like 5 minutes to amke the bracket
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w/e it took like 5 minutes to amke the bracket
I wasn't poking at what you did. It works fine and there's nothing wrong with. It just really is annoying that the difference in price over something so minor. Supply and demand at it's finest.
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hey david you have any problem with clutch pedal/bracket themselves flexing?
on the s13/14s ive had to weld up a few on cars that have heavy clutches that get clutch kicked a lot.
the metal fatigues and cracks, and on some the spot welds have ripped apart.
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hey david you have any problem with clutch pedal/bracket themselves flexing?
on the s13/14s ive had to weld up a few on cars that have heavy clutches that get clutch kicked a lot.
the metal fatigues and cracks, and on some the spot welds have ripped apart.
it could make sense, i was able to bend the metal around with a pair of pliers. ill keep a eye on it, and possibly add a brace if so.. but im only going to be running a stage 2 spec clutch i dont think its too stiff
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david am i seeing it right does that front bumper look diffrent than my mkI bumper?
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which front bumper
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guys this is really fucking cool! 3rd attempt came out GREAT... just needs some fillign and filing down, maybe a under layer to add more rigidity
this is 2 layers of fiberglass cloth
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3728.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3729.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3730.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3731.jpg)
i left some slack on the cloth so i can add resin and have it so i can bolt it to under where the hood is
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heres it on the car, needs trimming still, lots of filling/sanding
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3732.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/102_3733.jpg)
this is without camber on the wheel etc. i might get a slip on spacer for the front to get some better fitment results, but after i work with the fender for a tad ill get it sprayed etc. and probally do the drivers side if i get around to it, i guess i have to now ha
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damn david that looks good!
i need fenders, send me a pair
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Holy shit, That is pretty boss. +2 I want some as well.
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i def need a set haha. david, you might have some badass awesome money rollin in from this shit.
if you could sell em at cost + shipping + a little extra for you for your time, we'd all LOVE you lol. I need to replace my severely fucked up parts from my accident still.
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You have officially reached pimp status in my book!
Much better than I have ever done
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i want 5k per fender plus shipping
???
can i find something in a spray can.... maybe poly urathane? somethign that isnt too thin, and isnt to thick, that ican sand....
so i can fill in aolt of the mistakes ive made, after i sand away for a bit... and make it smoother
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i want 5k per fender plus shipping
???
can i find something in a spray can.... maybe poly urathane? somethign that isnt too thin, and isnt to thick, that ican sand....
so i can fill in aolt of the mistakes ive made, after i sand away for a bit... and make it smoother
Hmmm how about some of that truck bed liner they sell at autozone? I mean it sprays like paint but it's plastic lol. Might be a good filler
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Hmmm how about some of that truck bed liner they sell at autozone? I mean it sprays like paint but it's plastic lol. Might be a good filler
eh no that wont work... i was hoping someone knew of a thinner poly urathane in a can lol
http://www.newenglandcoating.net/polyureth...ay-coating.html (http://www.newenglandcoating.net/polyurethane-spray-coating.html)
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like this stuff lol http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PB3KV0 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PB3KV0)
http://www.ellsworth.com/display/productde...l?productid=772 (http://www.ellsworth.com/display/productdetail.html?productid=772)
http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.co...lebase#features (http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/60-352-clear-finish-polyurethane/minwax-helmsman-spray-urethane-629979.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=629979&utm_campaign=googlebase#features)
It even comes in colors!
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ooo i am filled with hope
i sanded the fender out some today.. going to go buy some cans of stuff
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wow, that body work looks good david!
there are many many car enthusiasts who can't do body work for shit, so hellz yeah boii!!
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could i smother a layer of fiberglass bondo overtop to smooth it out or will it crack etc.
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never drive to an event again!! this is epic
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3736.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3737.jpg)
going to have it welded in with a reinforcement bracket i made also welded to the frame
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fix that bumper.
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fix that bumper.
no
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The fender looks pretty sweet. You defintely are on to something there. The body lines are all looking spot on
tried some paint to see what else i gotta do, some more sanding etc. then it will be good
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no
yes.
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why
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make your daily look clean as fuck, while your car on the back is smashed up and looks badass. Its a trend. and its awesome.
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make your daily look clean as fuck, while your car on the back is smashed up and looks badass. Its a trend. and its awesome.
haha the truck will be reliable. that is all
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which front bumper
the white one that you got the fender off of look at the liscense plate mount on mine the bottom part comes out and the top part is flush, on the white on it is the oppisite way the top of the liscense plate is sunken in and the lower portion is flush
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make your daily look clean as fuck, while your car on the back is smashed up and looks badass. Its a trend. and its awesome.
Who really cares. It's a work truck for him. Battle damage is a medal of honor for my hauling/mudding trucks. Besides, it's just a bumper. I understand David point of view on that completely. Trucks are meant to be used and abused. Not to be spotless and clean. That just shows it was never used for it's intended purpose.
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the white one that you got the fender off of look at the liscense plate mount on mine the bottom part comes out and the top part is flush, on the white on it is the oppisite way the top of the liscense plate is sunken in and the lower portion is flush
**shrugs**
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ugh. decided to make a full exuast again
boy this stuff is annoying, my 3rd exuast
still doesnt line up as i wanted to as it bolted up, but i have a solution for that
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3765.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3766.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3769.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3770.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3774.jpg)
in the process of repairing my passenger seat. cars off jackstands finally
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Is the axle hitting the exhaust the cause of it falling off all the time? Or was there enough clearance for it?
Also. Where were your mounting points? More points, less likely to break.
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idunno i dunno lol
i have the limiting straps so it wont hit it now
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idunno i dunno lol
i have the limiting straps so it wont hit it now
Perfect!
Kitty on the windshield. Lol
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but its still like 2 inches off the ground
but wtf isnt on my car
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but its still like 2 inches off the ground
but wtf isnt on my car
2 inches is still a good amount man. As long as it doesn't drop below the bottom of the wheel (Into the realm of the tire), with a stiff suspension (Which I assume you have, as you've said it), and it being a track car. Good to go. If it breaks, meh. Whatever. if it gets dented. Whatever. It's just an exhaust
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Yeah your suspension is stiff enough and it's on a track most of the time so you'll be alright.
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Yeah your suspension is NOT stiff enough and it's on a track most of the time so you'll be alright.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3774.jpg)
You are using the hybrid B tranny with s13 C tranny bell housing with your ka? It doesn't look like your shifter is cut back in this pick.
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You are using the hybrid B tranny with s13 C tranny bell housing with your ka? It doesn't look like your shifter is cut back in this pick.
nope i have a big rectangle cut out so i can get to all the bolts, and for ka trans because it sits back farther
it seems like that probally because the s13 dash sits back farther towards the winshield
i have s14 trans
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so your using a ka24de with a t28 turbo right?
what engine management are your running ?
i readed like 10 of the last page but i had a hard time understanding whats happening
oh and btw you need to clean up the garage a bit, trust me it's worth it ahah
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so your using a ka24de with a t28 turbo right?
what engine management are your running ?
i readed like 10 of the last page but i had a hard time understanding whats happening
oh and btw you need to clean up the garage a bit, trust me it's worth it ahah
i clean it like every week lol. it just gets messy alot
i have sohc ka right now.. and my dohc ka is like 10 miles away half pulled from the s13
i havent figured out management
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i clean it like every week lol. it just gets messy alot
i have sohc ka right now.. and my dohc ka is like 10 miles away half pulled from the s13
i havent figured out management
what clutch ? why not run a T3 turbo instead ?
for engine management i'd go with ms since its easy to install and tune and real cheap
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what clutch ? why not run a T3 turbo instead ?
for engine management i'd go with ms since its easy to install and tune and real cheap
used free spec stage 2
why not t3? i dont need that big of a turbo, that much power, and that many problems to deal with. it a drift car. throttle response, and least turbo lag be needed. t28 is perfect for me
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Nistune is pretty great. Just take the stuff to an electronics shop to have it soldered or send it in + cash and you'll get it complete. It's a pretty badass system actually. You are planning on learning to tune one day right?
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Nistune is pretty great. Just take the stuff to an electronics shop to have it soldered or send it in + cash and you'll get it complete. It's a pretty badass system actually. You are planning on learning to tune one day right?
i just want it tuned, cheaply, but efficeint
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Tuning and cheap don't usually go together, unless you do nearly all the work.
You could get a mail order tune from Enthalpy or JWT, but those aren't that cheap either ($300+).
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till i get the s13 projecters/bricks im going to rock some sentra lights i got for free
the passenger side headlight cover was the dameged one.. im still working on hammering and shaping that one it.
atm it flares up about a 1/4 inch on the fender side. its annoying as fuck
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3799.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3798.jpg)
and a awesome shift knob
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3797.jpg)
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(http://chronofan.com/Zeality/delorean_brochure3_81.jpg)
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lul
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i need bigger wheels and less tire in the rear
and about 15 mill spacer up front
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3803.jpg)
what do you think?
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I think your front is perfect, and the rear is way out too far. But my aesthetic is very different than others.
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I think your front is perfect, and the rear is way out too far. But my aesthetic is very different than others.
you mean, i need more wheel, and more rolling in the rear
shits gotta be wide as possible man
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Finally caught up on your thread. It was worth it. Thanks.
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Finally caught up on your thread. It was worth it. Thanks.
lol, i dont see how its worth it. this build thread has become a daily blog pretty much where i moan and complain and try stupid ideas out to make this car fun and have a learning experience lol
pretty much to sum 55 pages up, sohc ka swapped s12 on suspension lol
but like, i plan to cover EVERY single bolt on the car. and add a desired modification to visually, and mechanically help me out drifting, wether i even feel like it, or like it...
update as of today
removed the driver/pass door windows/regulators, those are up for sale btw
got the truck registerd, and now cleaning up the small stuff for dn on the 6th!
i will be driving myself there. for the first time. and also towing my car there, for the first time
THE BEST EVENT OF THE YEAR, or YEARS??!
heres my ad posted on a local forum, jens told me to attract younger crowds and sound excited as hell
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/uno.jpg)
you dont have to drift to be here. so much fun. and some trophy girls to stare at
this is the final day of the season round competition, so that will be displayed at the closing drivers meeting
yes. your going to be here. with your mom. drifting
Also its a $5 autox from 9am to noon on WC before the karts get on it.
The Jefferson Circuit became available so it's 2 loops will be added to the 3 loops on the Shenandoah Circuit, and the 2 loops on the Summit Point Main Circuit.
Total 8 loops and 2 Skid pads
Club Loose is on board.
November 29th DN Cancelled
$75 all access
$20 skid pad
$5 spectators
motherfucking go karts guys.... DRIVE THEM!
free motherfucking t shirts to the people drifting
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/uno2.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/uno3.jpg)
wtf does this shit look like???
looks like this
http://vimeo.com/6333222 (http://vimeo.com/6333222)
BE THERE
driftnirvana.com for details
slidewaysonline.com local nova drift forum with more details, join.
QUESTIONS? pm me
or my aim
whatrwedoingnow
bahaha i only have to pay 25 because i got 3rd last event... 25 dollars. 8 different courses
summit point main?!?! never been used! just at hyperfest once a year for the semi pros
i wanna make a camera mount thats like 1 inch off the ground and zip tie a junk camera to it for the day like the pikes peak videos
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Fook you. Its an interesting read.
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david wen you run your turbo manifold if it is the same one as mine, it will set the turbo right next to the master cyl resivor, to fix this go to the jusnkyard and pull the resivior of a first gen eclipse un screw the two bolts and pull the little plug fittings out of the master itself. go home remove your resivor and pop the eclipse on in and youll e set. i spent all day at the junk yard poping hoods to find on that would finally work...
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david wen you run your turbo manifold if it is the same one as mine, it will set the turbo right next to the master cyl resivor, to fix this go to the jusnkyard and pull the resivior of a first gen eclipse un screw the two bolts and pull the little plug fittings out of the master itself. go home remove your resivor and pop the eclipse on in and youll e set. i spent all day at the junk yard poping hoods to find on that would finally work...
mines not a top mount
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oo ok i thought it was a topmount sorry...lol
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mines not a top mount
Yeah it is... flip it over. Unless if when you do that you have interference of the turbo with the dizzy. Then not so much.
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wait what? lol... is it really? im a dumbass when it comes to turbos
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You don't need a cage
Trust me
coming soon, this winter
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wait what? lol... is it really? im a dumbass when it comes to turbos
yes it is really. Check it!
once again, just make sure you won't run into issues with the dizzy or hood. It's been a long time practice for me to tell people that have a top mount that want a bottom mount to flip it over. and vice versa
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holy shit. holy shit. no way dude haha
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coming soon, this winter
yay track car status!
time for tandem?
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Oh, and by the way david. I've come to the conclusion of how I'm going to do to my fuel management setup. And you would love it.
I wish I had a turbo like yours laying around, So I could do tunes for many turbos. Starting next week I think i'm going start milling out a top feed fuel rail for the KA also.
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the thought of fuel management scares me
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the thought of fuel management scares me
Let me put it this way.
It uses the stock ECU. From the parameters I'm looking at, it will handle 300 hp just fine. It's what matt and I were discussing. except I'm taking it much further
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discussions about turbos to insue
BUT
GETTING MY MOTOR IN 4 HOURS!
finally i can get started with a motor. gonna clean the fuck out of it. and possibly rebuild. im so excited to get this done right and shit. dohc ka ftmfw
my boss has been making it difficult for me to pick up... and its basically pulled when i went up before. gonna get it with my friend driving my shiny new rusty truck
its costing me a whole brake and clutch pedal off a 240, i already paid him with that though. phew,
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its costing me a whole brake and clutch pedal off a 240, i already paid him with that though. phew,
That's about what they're worth as a whole motor. Too bad more people don't realize that
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That's about what they're worth as a whole motor. Too bad more people don't realize that
i know right?
well i got it.
here we go again. another auto
<3 my manager, let me drop the auto trans off at autozone for them to ship off
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3808.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3809.jpg)
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new pilot bearing/rear main seal/ oil pan gasket
trying to figure out how much im tearing down, if so piston rods/head gasket bearings the whole deal seems the only legit way. not sure yet
heres my best friend, r2d2
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3810.jpg)
note sr block in backround
heres my hb bfrieght engine stand coming out of the corner finally put to use
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3812.jpg)
getting ka onto stand after doing pilot bushing/rear main
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3811.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3814.jpg)
trying to figure out how much i can remove off the egr system, and what ahs to stay. thats a google question
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3813.jpg)
k guys here a dumb turbo question since i dont know much about turbos... how do i tell if my manifold is top or bottom mount!@?
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That one is supposed to be a bottom mount. but once again, you get to choose
And R2D2 is weak sauce. Next time im out cutting up the S13 (tomorrow), Ill snap a photo of mine for ya
Colder climate, bigger heater
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hey dont rag on my heater. i used to have a ceiling mounted eltric one at my old house.
lol this kero heater with the 2 oil space heaters keep it nice and toasty
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hey dont rag on my heater. i used to have a ceiling mounted eltric one at my old house.
lol this kero heater with the 2 oil space heaters keep it nice and toasty
I'm sorry... Mine's Automatic temperature controlled 210,000 BTU Forced air garage heating goodness. It can run jet fuel A or B, diesel, kerosene, 50/50 Kerosene/used oil, or 60/40 diesel/used oil mix... It has a 4 foot "Do not walk zone" in front of it, otherwise things spontaneously combust
It's 20 degrees outside. And in a month, it will be 50 degrees less than that. I need a much beefier heater than an oil wick type. A ceiling mounted electric one like you used to have would be nice. But I can't afford that electricity bill unless it heated my entire house also.
BUT! For VA, I can see that oil wick one working perfect for ya.
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meow i agree
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yay cheap knockoffs, i need to start trying 15's in the rear
if they had more of a lip it would be cool
someone slashed all 4 of my truck tires. stole my datsun keys, and my truck keys. so im not sure if ill be able to make it to the event dec. 6th, unless nissan can get my a key for a 25 year old car
ill still be preparing the car though
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3820.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3822.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3823.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_3824.jpg)
i need better fitment.
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woah! lovin' those goldies. where'd you get 'em at?
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Hey david, i have a kerosene heater just like that.
Do you know where you can get wicks for them? Its all i need to get mine running.
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Hey david, i have a kerosene heater just like that.
Do you know where you can get wicks for them? Its all i need to get mine running.
home depot? my friend got his at ace
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we have menards, lowes, and farm and fleet around here, no home depots close by. I wasnt able to find one at any of em, thanks anyways though.
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shit! i just read 57 pages of this. the car is looking good. im sorry about your truck. WTF? where did it happen at? They now know where your house is and have your keys. just be careful about that.
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shit! i just read 57 pages of this. the car is looking good. im sorry about your truck. WTF? where did it happen at? They now know where your house is and have your keys. just be careful about that.
it happened away from home. so they dont know where i live
the datsun keys are straight, its a garage queen most of the month.
the truck keys, eh. ill hook up a hidden starter switch hooked up to the solonoid switch
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david you dont need keys to start a nissan!!
there is a small phillips screw opposite the key, that holds the ignition switch to the key cyliner. when you pull it out you can use flat head or whatever to start the car.
then, drill the 2 snapped off bolts out of the lock cylinder and remove it from the column so you dont have to worry about the lock.
if its like other nissans, they are pretty interchangeable.
i had the ignition lock cylinder from my s13 on my 87 hardbody pickup, it bolted right up.
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david you dont need keys to start a nissan!!
there is a small phillips screw opposite the key, that holds the ignition switch to the key cyliner. when you pull it out you can use flat head or whatever to start the car.
then, drill the 2 snapped off bolts out of the lock cylinder and remove it from the column so you dont have to worry about the lock.
if its like other nissans, they are pretty interchangeable.
i had the ignition lock cylinder from my s13 on my 87 hardbody pickup, it bolted right up.
could i hammer a flat head into the screws? and try to twist them out?
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Most of the time they've worked loose over the years, you could probably just turn them out by hand.
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use a punche to hammer the head counterclockwise, thats the real way to do it
if you don't care about them you can just drill the heads off, it's a pretty soft material.
The keyswitch from my 71 datsun 510 is pretty similar to a s13 one ... you can get a new one at the scrapyard for peanuts
However i would remove it if you intend to race the car, these thing can go wrong anytime and can really scare the shit out of you
here's a funny reminder ahah
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEA8cR32knQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEA8cR32knQ)
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yes david you could spin them out with a screwdriver or chizel like the others said.
once you brake the tension off them they will screw right out.
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i got it off
yay.. now i jammed a house key in there and its good as new
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I just stumbled across your car on speed hunters
Here! (http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/12/09/driver-blog-gt-gt-vaughn-gittin-jr-100-drifters-of-december.aspx)
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orrly? i know. vaughn came up to me and shook my hand, and said i drove the shit out of my car, and was asking wtf engine and what car is it, i told him a izuzu with a ranger motor i hope he tookit as a joke
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right the fuck on david!! u make me feel like a tool lol. but u deserve it cuz u work ur ass off for drift
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no more ka-t
remember that wrecked s13? im buying that sr20 soon, hes going s15 sr. price im paying is 1k through some payments
ill be selling the dohc apart with the gasket kit, turbo manifold, and clutch i have
im going to start prepping the car tonight, pulling it apart. fenders, bumpers, all coming off.
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pulling the front end off again. preparing for the pull. its time the sohc comes out, im just going to skip next event, after christmas is over once i get more time and money, ill be doing more awesomeness
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3896.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3899.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3900.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3901.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3898.jpg)
id like to run my intercooler in front of my rad, is that a problem?
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blah blah
im tired. ill do the rest tomorrow maybe
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3902.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3903.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3904.jpg)
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running the FMIC in front of your rad is no problem, many drive cars do it as well as several of my friends. The air passes through and is still cool for the rad.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3905.jpg)
pretty much done. im working today spent my lunch break, everythings disconnected. when i get off work im gonna yank it out and get started
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whats to become of the ka? will it become a yard anchor?
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whats to become of the ka? will it become a yard anchor?
i wanna cut the sohc ka headers, it has a beefy flange. then cut my xs power dohc turbo manifold. then make it work. then have the sohc ka as a small build project for the future
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SR is going to be beast!!!! Way better than that truck engine lol.....Cant wait to see it finished and you tearing up them tires
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3906.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3907.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3908.jpg)
heres my driveshaft lol. fuck dollys
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3909.jpg)
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wtf did u do
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I'm gonna guess that something was rubbing while he was towing the car. lol
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I'm gonna guess that something was rubbing while he was towing the car. lol
tell em about it lol.
i disconnected the rear half, then hung it.. but my bearing driveshaft mount thingy is worn out and it slipped out.
so i hammerd the shaft back in. it took forever to hammer it off. sheesh
it still works though.. i drifted all last event on it.
look how close it was to grinding down to the spline... maybe 30 more minutes of driving i would have not been able to drift
like the blue tranny fluid?
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do it to it!!
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SR s12's are quite fun
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you willing to sell that ka de mani if so how much?
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we can talk about it later
lots of cleaning to do
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/1-1.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/2-2.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/3-1.jpg)
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Holy Crap. i just read through this from page 1.
i gotta say, you have come a loooong way since the beginning.
cant wait to see the SR in there. you give me hope to someday finally tear into my car.
just out of curiousity, how well did the CA20E slide the car around? mine seems..increadibly underpowered and incapable.
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Holy Crap. i just read through this from page 1.
i gotta say, you have come a loooong way since the beginning.
cant wait to see the SR in there. you give me hope to someday finally tear into my car.
just out of curiousity, how well did the CA20E slide the car around? mine seems..increadibly underpowered and incapable.
when mine ran good it had enough to get the job done haha
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3913.jpg)
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The bay looks good man.
I need to get me an engine hoist so a full cleanup like that.
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3 coats, some cool base coat, some glittery stuff. then a clear coat tomorrow when i pick it up
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3914.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3915.jpg)
of course, blue!
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K been neglecting your thread until tonight, just been busy...
Pro's: Repainting the engine bay. Looks like it's coming along good.
Con's: I like KA's. I like SR's. I don't like a car with an identity crisis. Pick and engine platform and STICK with it for a change, so you can actually finish it
I don't doubt you can do it from a technical standpoint, but are you committed to a plan now?
Edit: Oh and BTW, you're gonna want to upgrade to an aftermarket radiator, the S12 one is "ok", but you're drifting so you don't get as good an airflow to begin with, and the biggie FMIC will further reduce the stock radiator's effectiveness. Mishimoto is your friend.
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I remember when david first got the kae....he said he was going to try to kill it...but that engine took all the abuse david could throw at it. That makes me feel better about my kade.
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K been neglecting your thread until tonight, just been busy...
Pro's: Repainting the engine bay. Looks like it's coming along good.
Con's: I like KA's. I like SR's. I don't like a car with an identity crisis. Pick and engine platform and STICK with it for a change, so you can actually finish it
I don't doubt you can do it from a technical standpoint, but are you committed to a plan now?
Edit: Oh and BTW, you're gonna want to upgrade to an aftermarket radiator, the S12 one is "ok", but you're drifting so you don't get as good an airflow to begin with, and the biggie FMIC will further reduce the stock radiator's effectiveness. Mishimoto is your friend.
i have a sr20 koyo radiator hooked up to the sohc ka lol.... ill be using that for the sr
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note for arro
see? sr koyo
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3896.jpg)
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wtf
i fly away for a week with no Internet
suddenly, david has a fucking sr and didnt even tell me!
what a dick
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can we get some more pictures of this crazy-ass headlight/grille setup you're running now?
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can we get some more pictures of this crazy-ass headlight/grille setup you're running now?
lol i will sometime gotta figure out how this is gonna work because my i/c piping is gonna be where the headlights are
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3918.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3930.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3931.jpg)
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lol i will sometime gotta figure out how this is gonna work because my i/c piping is gonna be where the headlights are
ruh-roh!
i'm sure you'll figure it out.
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doppeee. the stock bracket for the hood latch was able to fit in with a spacer at the bottom. its nice and rigid. once i weld the top back init will be just as strong as oem. fitment is fucking perfect and it all unbolts
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3932.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3933.jpg)
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i have the m30 intercooler setup just like that.
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i have the m30 intercooler setup just like that.
i like it nice and high. so i dont have to buy a i/c everytime i hit a curb
heres some more progress
welded 2 sockets to my tension rod brackets, or whatever there called
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3934.jpg)
and the rubbers on the end of the koyos fits the husky 11/16's socket good
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3935.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3936.jpg)
rad sits a 1/2 inch higher, clearence on the hood is close. might have to clut some of the support out here
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3937.jpg)
no modification of bumper support or anything. feels good. might get someone to weld me up some tubing to replace the crash bar for air flow. but for now this will work
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3938.jpg)
my ghetto hood latch
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3939.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3940.jpg)
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David i just have to say freaking awesome on the socket idea lol. Looking really good, how much longer until you put the motor in?
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David i just have to say freaking awesome on the socket idea lol. Looking really good, how much longer until you put the motor in?
even if someone doesnt have a welder they can just run a bolt through it
the motor goes in... not sure.
i have the money, the sr is in my garage. i just gotta change the rear main seal, some trans seals/bearings. and throw it in.
i might add my freddy oil pan too
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Hopefully that intercooler has a good design, it's gonna take FOREVER to fill that monster.
Especially with a stock T25.
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shoulda stitch welded the bay and filled all the frame with foam
run it no headlights or grill. cut the bumber and support and put a bar across. make it flush with the front of the bumper.
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I'm kinda sad he ditched out on the kade-t build. I think for drifting the ka-t's are great because of the prodigious amounts of torque they produce. Not to say an sr20 won't get the job done. And yeah that is a big intercooler haha.
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Hopefully that intercooler has a good design, it's gonna take FOREVER to fill that monster.
Especially with a stock T25.
All the more reason to upgrade to a T28 or Egay tubular mani+T3.
I'm kinda sad he ditched out on the kade-t build. I think for drifting the ka-t's are great because of the prodigious amounts of torque they produce. Not to say an sr20 won't get the job done. And yeah that is a big intercooler haha.
Yeah that was kinda what I was gettin at earlier. But it looks like he's doing it right.
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Hopefully that intercooler has a good design, it's gonna take FOREVER to fill that monster.
Especially with a stock T25.
Actually i run a larger intercooler than that on my s14, SR turbo fills it up to 13psi at 3.7k rpm so i wouldn't worry about it(don't think there is THAT big of a difference between s13 and s14 turbo's). Oil pan is a good idea because the 3.4 quarts it takes could get hot fast, i would suggest a cx racing oil cooler also there cheap and iv purchased a few of there cooling products off ebay as well as some of my friends. all of us have gotten great products! id say worry about making that motor last, get a diff turbo later blow the fuc* out of the one you got first by drifting the shit out of it
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It's not a good idea, maybe you're getting 13 psi signal in the boost gauge line, but you're overspinning your tiny T25 to do it, meaning you are heating up the air a lot.... so the big IC is only about as effective as a medium or smaller IC.
Also, are we talking T25 or T25G? there's a noticable difference in the flow map for each.
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i have a t28
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i have a t28
Why does this guy always has something up his sleeve... it's freaking me out!
LOL good build buddy trash this thing around and make us proud of you!!!
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Even with a T28 I still wouldn't use that big of an intercooler, there's a point when it's just too big. Usually when it starts to eclipse the radiator, IMO.
I could see that if say, you were going to be running a Super 60 at 1bar, but not a T2 flanged turbo.
But hey, whatever, it's your car!
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David, i was looking at your I/C issue and maybe you could flip it over so you have the piping in the bottom?
It will mean slightly longer piping but at least you can have headlight with it!
Also i gotta admit, at the beginning your car was super ghetto but you keep making it better and better! keep the good work!
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i agree with djs12 flip it thats how i ran mine on my s13.
djs12 i love that coupe. clean as f*ck.
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Ok so a T28 is better, yes, but I think Matt is onto something here... this is a BIG IC. The kind you typically see on drag-tuned turbocars running big, laggy turbos that have violent engagement at peak boost. A T28's prime advantage is spool, with still decent flow, but would be better paired with something a third less smaller than this IC here, or even half as big.
David, you might want to gather more opinions on this, maybe even talk to Turbonetics (a phonecall to those guys is often very enlightening), and see what you think after that, before you start fabbing. You might have to choose between either your current T28 and a *different* intercooler, or this big intecooler with aa different turbo and T3 flanged Egay manifold like I suggested above.
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hey it will start the car. ill think about i/c's later this one was cheap
i cant flip the i/c over... the piping would hit the brackets for the crash support unless i relocat that
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just being bored LOL
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/kouki.jpg)
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what's going on over there?
edit: s14 headlight?
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what's going on over there?
edit: s14 headlight?
had a random one i just wanted to fit. but probally wont
omg the chassis harness weighs like a astronimical 25 pounds
im going to be making a simple chassis harness, with the essentials for running the motor, and working headlights/brakelights. ill keep it clean too
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3945.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3946.jpg)
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The s14 headlight looks doope. If you could get some to work, i say do it ( custom brackets?)
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The s14 headlight looks doope. If you could get some to work, i say do it ( custom brackets?)
i might someday, id have to buy some first. my friend just gave me his fucked ones so i can mock shit up haha
lots of nasty trash and sound deadening to remove. i hate my car being like this haha
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3947.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3948.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3950.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3951.jpg)
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It's not a good idea, maybe you're getting 13 psi signal in the boost gauge line, but you're overspinning your tiny T25 to do it, meaning you are heating up the air a lot.... so the big IC is only about as effective as a medium or smaller IC.
Also, are we talking T25 or T25G? there's a noticeable difference in the flow map for each.
I Have a t28 also but what im saying is my intercooler witch is a little bigger than his and is full at 3700rpms and 13psi.... so i dont think its a problem. i can see if i was running 17psi and with my little t28 and i didnt get max boost until 5k ish then it would be pushing it. I have been running this for a year and a half, checked for shaft play about 2 months ago and it was in great shape.
so stay with the intercooler you have its fine, just drive it to death. (my I/C i got a deal on to hence why its so large but better than stock s14 i/c ewwwww)
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I would love to see a thermocouple readout before your TB to see how how that air is.
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What people tend to forget is that the I/C is already full of air while you are running at idle... when you stomp on the gaz, it doesn't have to "full" first in order to get air to the engine. Since air as a viscosity, the curent air that sits in the I/C will be pushed by the air comming from the turbo and so on....
That is why you can run a remote mount turbo and still get decent spool time and throttle response. Don't forget that the lenght of the pipe that connect the turbo to the TB in a remote mount setup as about the same volume or air then this I/C as, if not more. What a big I/C will add is restriction to the air flow, and a slight drop in pressure, but the bigger volume adds to counter act this effect. More volume at lower pressure = same flow. Of course if you are running a turbo to own bragging rights on "how much pressure you can run" it will not do, but if you own a turbo to increase flow (total volume of air that gets IN the engine) in order to make more power, this I/C will get the job done. IMO
Tom
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Monster intercooler = Big air tank, it takes time to pressurize.
A T2 with that IC is like trying to fill a car tire with a bike pump, it can be done, but it's gonna take all day!
I know he isn't running a T2, but for the analogy it works.
If it's a bar/plate design, it might flow ok. So performance might not suffer too much, because flow is still "good", but it will take time to pressurize.
That's why I went with a 26"x8"x3" IC with decently tapered end tanks, it might not flow the best, but it's efficiency is really nice. And because of the size, it doesn't take long to fill. Plus I can snake the piping around the radiator and have really short piping.
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stop with the i/c battles holy shit make a thread
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stop with the i/c battles holy shit make a thread
If you would have just gotten a smaller intercooler in the first place it would never have gotten brought up. Its all your fault David! Seriously though this is kinda starting to remind me of the tranny debates that come outta no where in random threads haha.
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david i love the trashy east coast style dont stop... but
my problem with modding the look of an S12 is that it makes it harder to recognize as a 200sx. When peeps see ur car on the course or in a pic u gotta remem that THEY DONT KNOW WTF IT IS and ur mods confuse the issue. They cant go home and google that shit to find it by pictures lol. But keep at it u got ur own style goin. btw ratty fucked up drift cars are whats up in japan lol.
Peep these vids
http://www.vegasdrift.com/forum/index.php/topic,2394.0.html (http://www.vegasdrift.com/forum/index.php/topic,2394.0.html)
gotta start bangin the wall like that white hatch lol. see that motherfucker eggin him on? he got me crackin up
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hopefully arro will have some club-s12.org stickers for sale here soon, then maybe david can rep what he has with a decal.
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Well tomorrow's the 2nd, I'll try to get the decal guy on the phone.
Anyways yeah enough IC talk, David gets the message, he'll do what he can with what he has for now.
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lol ill make a donation fund for my rear window
ill take a 2 foot by 6 inch club-s12 sticker shipped to my house and ill rock it haha
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got like 90 percent of the sound deading out. debating wether or not i wanna stitch weld
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3952.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3954.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3956.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3957.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3958.jpg)
dry ice and heat guns are overated. i used a mini sledge hammer and a flat head
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nice job. im sure if you were to try that in a california summer, you would be begging for some dry ice though. whats the temps there anyway?
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nice job. im sure if you were to try that in a california summer, you would be begging for some dry ice though. whats the temps there anyway?
around 30 degrees or so depending on wind i dunno. it gets to freezing some point at most nights now.
but my garage is around... 75-65 degrees with the heaters going... but the metal is pretty chilled
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stitch weld that bitch up tight david!
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my hb frieght angle grinder keeps eating brushes... i dunno why. it keeps overheating and shit. i gotta go grab another one. i think i am gonna stitch weld
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Sorry for not googling it up but what's stitch welding good for? More stability and less body twist?
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that is exactly it praizewood. Almost all fully prepped race and drift cars are stitch welded...it make the chassis so much stiffer. And then throw a cage on top of that and bam, you have have a drift, track, or rally tank.
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Sorry for not googling it up but what's stitch welding good for? More stability and less body twist?
ill take some pictures of the pathetic spot welded stamped steel... so you can see how scary it looks as to whats holding the chassis together
im doing the interior. i might do the bay. but i did paint it. but. i might just redo it
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Do both interior AND bay or you just wasted your time... tighening up just one area puts all the stresses on the remaining areas, and the bay has the suspension.
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Do both interior AND bay or you just wasted your time... tighening up just one area puts all the stresses on the remaining areas, and the bay has the suspension.
FINE!
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Anyways you've take the time to do everything else, I'm sure it will turn out good. great thing about stitch welding, it doesn't have to be pretty to work, so if you start on the inside, by the time you get to the bay, your shit will look good I bet.
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it worth it trust me. fill it with foam too. Gonna do mine next time its apart.
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shit.
i was down in richmond all weekend, i should have stopped by.
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so ive been reading around
about stitch, spot, and seam welding
sad thing is im using a arc lincoln weldpack 100 of might!
should i stop and turn around or will this welder do the job
and with spot welding, and stitch welding, not sure of which to do. since im a novice welder. im taking a welding class but havent started yet. ill be doing some practice welds and posting them up here tonight
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are these areas i can stitch up?
my angle grinder brokeded and is eating brushes. so for now im just stripping the paint everywhere that looks like it needs work
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3959.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3960.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3961.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3962.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3963.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3964.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3965.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3966.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3967.jpg)
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decided to try a section. boy do i suck at this. im not sure if im strengthening the chassis or weakening it
i need a gas welder
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3968.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3969.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3970.jpg)
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I've been using the same welder, its my buddies. ue wire speed is good on 2-3 but u need to CRANK the heat all the way up. no birdshit beads and you can move faster.
ur stitching the wrong way as well. go along the seam in 1" to 1.5" beads. Do the structural areas first and then decide if u wanna do more. And you'll have to remove the seam sealer. Sterling described trouble welding on seams with seam sealer because of the sealer bubbling. Not that he couldnt get the welds done, just that it was an annoyance. Ur on the right track doin the floor supports keep it up.
do the bay. foam the pillars and rails. dope s12 chassis
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well the welds usually penetrate and sit lower, but i always go back over them because im a faggt
and going across the seam... thats seam welding.. isnt it?
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no seam welding is when u weld the entire length of the seam up solid. u dont wanna do that. too much heat it'll distort the car.
googled it
u can just tack the seams but make the tacks closer together like they did on this car. pretty sick build
http://www.intecracing.com/Lawrence240.htm (http://www.intecracing.com/Lawrence240.htm)
or
(http://mestiso.net/photogallery/240/CIMG2867.jpg)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/345ikadizzle/240sx%20Build/StichWeldandPaint002.jpg)
no need to go back over anything. MAX the heat and keep the wire a bit slow. Then you can weld fast and get shit done quicker
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ill figure it out
heres pictures of the sr
one owner since its been shipped over, ive riddin in the s13, drove it, and have watched it for about a year since it was swapped, around 20k or so driven on the whatever mileage it consumed in japan
used only mobil 1 oil under 3k everytime kept seriously bone stock. not even a bov. just a front mount thats all
on the bone stock t25 with stock boost and everything it puts out 193 rwh on the dynojet
it has greddy RAS and i ahve a freddy oil pan i might decide to fit (the stock oil pan has a indentation of the stock s13 sway bar from heating a rock awhile ago)
front main seal was changed before the wreck, ill be changing the rear main, valve cover, and simple important gaskets.
im adding my gt2860r and running stock boost until i get some injecters and everything planned out.
from the wreck the coolant elbow was broken, ive aquired a new one
also looking to trade my #62 ecu for a #63 so i dont have to use the stupid trans sensors. if not. its whatever
im making my own chassis harness to power this motor. more to come on that
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3971.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3972.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3973.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3974.jpg)
paying 1k for it that i have friday, this is why i havent posting so many pics of it yet. but i am 100 percent positive im gonna dedicate myself now.
but its been in my garage for months LOL
1k includes... RAS, harness (uncut), trans, driveshaft, ecu, no turbo
and am i using the sr driveshaft? or will ka work
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youre on the right track! that SR will scream man, you will be very happy with it.
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and am i using the sr driveshaft? or will ka work
the beauty of the KA trans is that most of the time all you need to do is a bellhousing swap for the SR bellhousing and away you go. Same goes for the S12 Mark II trans.
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the beauty of the KA trans is that most of the time all you need to do is a bellhousing swap for the SR bellhousing and away you go. Same goes for the S12 Mark II trans.
i have a full sr trans though, i was just wondering if the overall length of the bellhousing was different
youre on the right track! that SR will scream man, you will be very happy with it.
hell yea. plus im helping my friend with his s15 sr20 swap by giving him cash... if you guys dont remember we got in a epic wreck, this motor is from that car
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i have a full sr trans though, i was just wondering if the overall length of the bellhousing was different
It should be the same. The only thing that changes is the length of the trans, but the KA trans should be the same length as that SR trans. Some people on KA-T.org have said it is stronger, while others say it is essentially the same inside. Either way, it's probably not any stronger.
Try swapping the whole powertrain, and if something doesn't fit, change the bellhousing and do it with the KA trans. There's your solution.
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So why dont you weld the whole seem. why only sections?
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So why dont you weld the whole seem. why only sections?
thats alot of welding wire, its also not worth to weld all the seams. and theres a limit to having crush zones that nissan designed specifically for
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are you going to use a filler after your done?
btw, david I read somewhere that you are into scat is this true?
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are you going to use a filler after your done?
btw, david I read somewhere that you are into scat is this true?
scat!?
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scat!?
?????????? need to emphasize it more lol
And you should be able to use your KA drive shaft for the SR swap.
Are you going to replace the main/rod bearings while it's out?
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scat!?
scat (adj,verb,noun,etc)- sexual practices related to shit. can refer to the use of extremiment on ones face, or genital area.
ex: i want to scat with your mommy.
anyways....... cool car.
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trans is same, driveshaft is same lenght, only difference is ka driveshaft has rubber guibo, sr uses a ujoint.
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looking good david when i take my trip out to the east coast to visit the fams im hitting you up! sick shit with the sockets dude...
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I will toss in my 2cents with the welding here.
the lincoln wp100 will do the job just fine. I've done all major structural repairs and reinforcements with it on all the cars I've done.
Stitch or seam welding is a bitch. not only do you have all the surface prep time, but all the seam sealer shit that is actually IN the seams will NOT come out with any form of tool save a torch, and will bubble up and make welding a pain in the ass. You will also likely warp the chassis a bit, mine sure did.
A cage is both simpler and similarly effective stiffening-wise. and when you hit something, the whole chassis doesn't take the blow, so its an easier more localized repair. good for drifting.
my vote is save the time and effort and just put a cage in it.
I would put up some pics for you, but I cannot access my photobucket, and I don't remember the email addy I used to register it, which is a bitch, considering I've got hundreds of photos there. Its only been 6 months or so, what fucking bullshit.
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there u have it
quit fuckin around and cage it
chassis>engine
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haha I fuckn cracked it!
Seam welding,
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_0735.jpg)
stitch welding,
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_0739.jpg)
the strange looking bead above I think is some of the burn-thru/penetration from the other side iirc...
stitching can also be short 1" or so beads with gaps in between as well. This ^ type of spot/stitch is much quicker tho.
not something I'd care to repeat, unless I had the chassis acid dipped to remove all paint and sealer, then maybe I'd do this, but again, a cage is just easier imo, and less work/transferable if you wreck it bad.
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...but a whole lot heavier.
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yeah, but he'll have the power to overcome it. not to mention the weight is relatively evenly distributed...
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traded my sohc headers and a ka trans
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4017.jpg)
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what brand wastegate is that?
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what brand wastegate is that?
It's a flux capacitor duh
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It's a flux capacitor duh
yeap
so guys help me figure all this out
thinking about using the stock sr manifold, welding a tube to the manifold, about 1 inch or less long to the wastegate flange, and then have the wastegate exit back onto the o2 housing or DP
i have to figure out which way this is gonna work for clocking the turbo. i realize i dont have that much to move around with since i dont have a clocking adapter kit or whatever
heres a fancy zip tie mock up.
tell me what isnt legit, and what should be moved/clocked
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4018.jpg)
link to sr t2 manifolds with wastegate openings on them would be bad ass.
can someone measure brake master cylinder clearences? i dont mind cutting some of my firewall out. or beating stuff aside
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what brand wastegate is that?
It appears to be a Tial Or at least a knockoff of a Tial.
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straight wastegate dump!
dont be a pansy
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yea open dump tube ftw
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ive seen open dumps out of the bumpers and sides of cars.
ive already considered the exuast t be side exit due to i keep fucking them up anyways
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I dont think your waste gate and dump tube will work their. it is a tight area. you will have room to put it in a similar location but I would wait till you have the engine in. I went and looked at mine and it looks like you would be hitting the brake booster if you mounted it their.
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I dont think your waste gate and dump tube will work their. it is a tight area. you will have room to put it in a similar location but I would wait till you have the engine in. I went and looked at mine and it looks like you would be hitting the brake booster if you mounted it their.
i can obviously move it haha. i wont be doing modification till the motors in the car
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Not an SR, but whatever:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455617 (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455617)
Just don't try doing it with that MIG welder of yours, it won't last. Welding cast iron isn't as easy as steel.
I've been thinking of doing this my self, but I don't have the external wastegate, flanges, or piping.
If I do it, I'll probably put a different flange on too (T3 probably).
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sell all that crap and run a s14 t28 on a stock cast manifold, with 3" turbo back.
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why are u using an external wastegate? i dont get it. ur turbo is internally gated.
find someone who is switching to top mount and trade them the external wastegate for their used tubular bottom mount mani.
CHRA needs to be clocked so its vertical (oil drain straight down) or with the drain slightly towards the block like 7 o'clock. Compressor housing needs to be clocked about 3 hours counterclockwise from that position. u wanna test fit some though with ur IC piping. u can clock it to work best with the pipes.
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find someone who is switching to top mount and trade them the external wastegate for their used tubular bottom mount mani.
sell all that crap and run a s14 t28 on a stock cast manifold, with 3" turbo back.
no one will buy all this crap, nor trade
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well then maybe thats a good sign that you shouldnt be using it either.
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yeah well, i'm sure there are plenty of people who think david shouldn't using an s12 but he bunked that idea
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A little late to the game on the seam/stitch welding, but the areas you see with major gaps are to account for metal expansion. Seeing that you're at 30*F, it looks like a really huge gap, but it has all been accounted for. The chassis' here look much "tighter" if you will since it's around 70*F-90*F. Just something to keep in mind before you seam weld the entire car. I'm actually on heat transfer and thermodynamics so it all actually makes sense why those gaps exist.
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yeah well, i'm sure there are plenty of people who think david shouldn't using an s12 but he bunked that idea
you're right, comparing him using a different chassis is the same thing as suggesting he not use shitty ebay parts when he can get better results cheaper out of oem parts is exactly the same thing.
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well then maybe thats a good sign that you shouldnt be using it either.
whats wrong with a external wastegate?
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nothing, but you dont need it, and it looks like that is cheap ebay crap.
whats wrong with running a cast manifold with a internally gated t28 at 12 psi and have a decently powerful reliable engine?
whats wrong with not having to worry about welds cracking and that thing boost creeping?
etc etc.
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well ive already given up on the t28. and buying a t25. everyone is so gay with the economy. but ill get it figured out. if i go t25 ill deff go back with my t25 actuator i have. i just dont have a t28 one..
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have you asked for one?
think i have one.
i have 2 or 3 t28s that need seals, ill hook you up if iggy will hook you up with a seal replacement, you'll be golden.
you've done so good so far, stay on the right track!
and they are s14 journal bearing turbos, not that gtr junk.
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replaced rear main seal/regasketed seal cover
removed studs with double nutting
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4024.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4025.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4026.jpg)
love this bent tool for removing the rtv out of the little dip ins....
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4027.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4028.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4029.jpg)
ill grab a pilot bearing before the motor goes in i guess also.
why didnt i just remove the whole oil pan? should i? i wanted to get the rear main out of the way before it goes on the stand... i DID rtv the bottom portion of the seal cover to the pan to ensure its sealed at the corners... if i take the upper pan off ill just scrape it off and reseal
started to replace trans seals/input bearing
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4033.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4035.jpg)
QUESTION! i dropped the seal when i popped it out.. this input one.
is it in backwards? how do i tell? not familiar which way these bastards go in
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_4036.jpg)
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u got it right. where u get the trans seals and bearings?
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u got it right. where u get the trans seals and bearings?
autozone! my job
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nice. replacing seals is a good way to save a lot of time, and possibly money as well later down the road. good work.
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someone answer my question! is it in backwards?
and can i use rtv to seal the plate back up. i also fogot the order the snap rings go on haha
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iggy said its right, im pretty sure it is too.
iggy i have a t28 for david, want to hook him up with a refresh? its an s14 journal bearing.
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iggy said its right, im pretty sure it is too.
iggy i have a t28 for david, want to hook him up with a refresh? its an s14 journal bearing.
+1 +1 +1 +1 +1
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yeah fucking do that shit
put that ebay shit back on ebay
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sounds good. PM me when u get it. Just pay for shipping and the kit. I'll do a good job for ya.
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someone answer my question! is it in backwards?
and can i use rtv to seal the plate back up. i also fogot the order the snap rings go on haha
Not in backwards. when the seal is channeled like that, the hollow side of the C always goes inside. Otherwise it would never properly tap into place.
Good as gold
Also, The RTV is just fine as long as you got everything covered. But don't forget to lube up the inside of the seal (Mating surface of the rotating mass) with some grease before you start it up. Could melt out and leak right away.
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nooo look its backwards...
the hollow side, is supposed to be the oil mating side. mine is backwards. i ordred a new one.
umm, got trans bolts today, clutch is in. MISSING FLYWHEEL BOLTS?@?@ anyone got spares>? i dont have 50+ bux to fork out for some new ones
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Get the ARP flywheel bolt kit, it's only $32.
Part number is ARP-254-2801, http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/254-2801/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/254-2801/10002/-1)
It says it's for a Ford, don't worry about that. They're the same as OEM.
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nooo look its backwards...
the hollow side, is supposed to be the oil mating side. mine is backwards. i ordred a new one.
umm, got trans bolts today, clutch is in. MISSING FLYWHEEL BOLTS?@?@ anyone got spares>? i dont have 50+ bux to fork out for some new ones
I wasn't sure what side was the oil side on that part. If the camera is the side the lubricant of choice will be on, then Like you said, yes. It's backwards.
Sucks having no flywheel bolts. I can't verify what matt said so I'll stay out of that one
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flywheel bolts are in. trans gasket is in. mmn. getting ready for swappage
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fuck the cold
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oh my god. i broke a flywheelbolt off into the crank. thanks to autozones tq wrench.. it wasnt clicking, i kept going. and pop. i had ti set to 95 foot pounds, after i tqed them to 60
luckly i was able to retrieve the bolt out. but now i have to order another one. and fucking wait another week or so
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Man that sucks,atleast it sounds like you got it out pretty easy.I've had to remove almost all 8 after the 4ag in my mr2 snapped them.
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id pull the pic up but it looks like you still have speakers taking up space in your doors. on top of that it was a pic of you chizeling out sound deadening material, yank those shitz! LOL ...unless you have a stereo hiding somewhere
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id pull the pic up but it looks like you still have speakers taking up space in your doors. on top of that it was a pic of you chizeling out sound deadening material, yank those shitz! LOL ...unless you have a stereo hiding somewhere
im lazy lol
im gonna eltric impact some grade 8 bolts from the local store. these nissan bolts suck dick. and tq wrenches are gay
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You didn't get the ARP bolts I listed?
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You didn't get the ARP bolts I listed?
i got fr sport...
but dude. why cant i just use a grade 8 bolt from the local hardware store? as long as its the same pitch thread and length and diameter
the nissan bolts, werent torquing to 95... they just. stretched. and... stretched.
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That sucks. At least you got the stud out.
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grade 8 isn't strong enough, you'd need at least 10.9, but I don't see any reason why not.
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What people tend to forget is that the I/C is already full of air while you are running at idle... when you stomp on the gaz, it doesn't have to "full" first in order to get air to the engine. Since air as a viscosity, the curent air that sits in the I/C will be pushed by the air comming from the turbo and so on....
That is why you can run a remote mount turbo and still get decent spool time and throttle response. Don't forget that the lenght of the pipe that connect the turbo to the TB in a remote mount setup as about the same volume or air then this I/C as, if not more. What a big I/C will add is restriction to the air flow, and a slight drop in pressure, but the bigger volume adds to counter act this effect. More volume at lower pressure = same flow. Of course if you are running a turbo to own bragging rights on "how much pressure you can run" it will not do, but if you own a turbo to increase flow (total volume of air that gets IN the engine) in order to make more power, this I/C will get the job done. IMO
Tom
The only problem that I see with your analogy (which I may be completely wrong...in which case I apologize in advance if I am) is that Air is a gas and therefore compressible. The whole system must first reach the same pressure which a big IC will make it take much longer. Not because of restriction, but because of the sheer volume of air that must be compressed first.
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grade 8 isn't strong enough, you'd need at least 10.9, but I don't see any reason why not.
stock flywheel bolts are NOT 10.9 grade.
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OEM bolts don't usually have a listed rating, retail bolts however require a marking.
Again, I wouldn't use grade 8.8, but would rather have 10.9 or 12.9. It's holding your flywheel and clutch assembly in place and at a high RPM, I wouldn't want it flying off... Would you?
Edit:
Just an FYI, 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 600 MPa (mega pascals), 10.9 is 830 MPa, that's quite a difference if you ask me.
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i went back and put the old sr one i found on, and realized i may have had my clutch on backwards? is that possible. phew. i dunno. but i think i got it squared away now. everything is tqed down.
im gonna go buy a set of new pressure plate bolts from the hardware store, since i cant find all of the same length ones. some i have are too long and get scary close the the flywheel teeth and i feel like the starter would eat them
sorry about the no pictures. my main computer is down. im on my backup one. i have been taking some though
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nevermind
slow poster here
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nevermind
slow poster here
<3
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motor is in, heres some random pictures. my computer has been down
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4064.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4066.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4069.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4075.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4076.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4080.jpg)
ill explain more later of whats to come up when i get my pc back up
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Aww. how cute! you guys actually got something a tidge more than a dusting of snow down there!
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Aww. how cute! you guys actually got something a tidge more than a dusting of snow down there!
haha yea, we got 2 pretty good snow storms, most snow in a long time around here
i need a damn turbo. anyone have a blown non bb t28?
i need random bits of i/c piping too, to make mine.
gotta get a fuel pump, and a s13 pump assembly
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and, im grabbing this this weekend!
from west va, for 400 beans
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/trailer.jpg)
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sorry davdi im not having any luck i dont know if i lost it, someone stole it.
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sorry davdi im not having any luck i dont know if i lost it, someone stole it.
its fine! i just gotta find another turbo. asap!!
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and, im grabbing this this weekend!
from west va, for 400 beans
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/trailer.jpg)
Perfect. Tire rack and toolbox in the front. Spare parts bins over the tongue.
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and thanks too lee ive aquired a new aluminum horse.
my friend really wants to swap it, and so do i. and the motor has a heavy leak if oil is added, and it hold like none. 4 stroke 48 cc manual with a cute from dual piston brake
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4087.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4086.jpg)
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found a t25 for cheap, gonna stick with that for now. making a new trans mount when i get the chance
does a s13 fuel pump assembly fit in the s12 tank and bolt up? tank yew
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grabbing a t25, both elbows and i/c piping (stainless steel for frontmount s13) tonight hopefully.
then next chance i get, throw the i/c in with the rad, make i./c piping,
remake of trans mount. (probally not using 3, just 2 of those rubber washers), with a plate on top, and filling the inside with poly
too bad im working through this warm weekend!
it still has dirt and shit on it from decembers summit event
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4090.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4092.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4093.jpg)
motors tilted back, because the trans mount isnt in yet
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Lookin good man. My brother swapped a sr in his s13 and he loves it. It has also been super reliable.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4096.jpg)
some stuff. staying t25 for now. still looking for a blown journal t28 for rebuild
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i/c back in, therm housing on, rad in, starting to fab i/c piping (steel). turbo on, new exaust manifold gasket, new turbo t25 flange gasket
things to do
remake a new trans mount (new idea)
figure out turbo lines?! someone explain what banjo line is what, and where to buy the lines!
get o2 housing gasket, where to order thats cheapish?
wiring
get the god damn clutch fan off!! wtf its seized on!
hook up driveshaft
add fluids
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4103.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4097.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4101.jpg)
hopefully ill clear the steering rack
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4102.jpg)
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very nice dude, looking good...
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the 17mm head banjo should be water line and the 19mm head banjo should be oil line
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where can i order those lines?!
made one side of the i/c piping out of rapper dans old shit haha
dont get on my welds, i have a lincoln weldpack 100 with that fluxcore dogg
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4107.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4108.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4109.jpg)
trans mount is in also
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other side welded up, homemade midmount out of steel pipe ftw!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4111.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4110.jpg)
each side is 1 piece and slides right out of the bay
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Just one thing I'm spotting....
You have the intercooler upside down for best cooling. your pushing hot air, it will stay up at the top.
Flip it over for best efficiency. Inlet and outlet towards the ground. But with that one, I dunno if it will make a difference for a t25. It's massive
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i cant flip it upside down, im keep my bumper support and id have to notch it out on the chassis where it mounts, and use more piping
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i cant flip it upside down, im keep my bumper support and id have to notch it out on the chassis where it mounts, and use more piping
But you just answered how you could flip it the "proper" way
"
I'm being picky yes. It should be fine with your turbo, but anything bigger and I would flip it to be the "proper" way. For future reference, best cooling is hot air in at the highest inlet.
Im putting proper in parentheses because it's fairly subjective, even though it's just simple physics
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well iff i get a t28, ill probally get a smaller i/c, run it normalways, and get 45 degree elbows welded to it for the midmount, and redo the piping. atm i just wanna drift!!
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well iff i get a t28, ill probally get a smaller i/c, run it normalways, and get 45 degree elbows welded to it for the midmount, and redo the piping. atm i just wanna drift!!
That's the spirit!!!!!!!
Oh, and your welds look good for what your workin with. My compliments. Just make sure the motor torquing won't pop off the piping. If you have the poly mounts on there, or pucks. Should be golden
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i have stock mounts with window weld in them.
i wanna make a strut bar for the motor, does that sound gay? to keep it chill.
just orderd oil and coolant lines from fr sport. should be here next week
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Oh come one, I can make welds that look like TIG welds with my Handy MIG.
Whatever works man, ghetto/rigged/ratty/whatever seems to be the "in" thing these days anyway.
Oh, and the exhaust will clear fine with the stock cast O2 elbow, but be careful of aftermarket ones, they're usually made for RHD cars and will put the elbow into the frame rail (ask how I know.)
If you get an aftermarket one, make SURE it's make to fit LHD cars.
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whats the thread pitch for the studs? im missing a few studs off the turbo
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i wanna make a strut bar for the motor, does that sound gay? to keep it chill.
Nope. I've used chains to do that very thing before. Just to prevent it from torquing over in any forward gear. Old tried and true hot rod/rat rod/muscle car/drifter trick
Whatever works man, ghetto/rigged/ratty/whatever seems to be the "in" thing these days anyway.
Yup. The chains worked well in my application
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im using the stock throttle cable for now, i was able to run it under the injecter harness and make a ghetto bracket to make it work for now. is dohc longer?
bled the clutch, added slave cylinder, its got good pressure still man it feels so good to push that clutch pedal in
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I think they're M10x1.25.
Edit:
And the turbo outlet I think are M8x1.0, I could be wrong though
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im using the stock throttle cable for now, i was able to run it under the injecter harness and make a ghetto bracket to make it work for now. is dohc longer?
I would think so. Here's a pic of mine installed. PLENTY o slack, I would imagine it would work well for the SR install
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/Phreakonaleash55/DSCN0261.jpg)
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yea my shit is almost STRETCHED across. lol. but i dont need to go to the yard soon, so this should be fine for now
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heres goes the wiring ideas. like i stated, im making my own chassis harness to run the motor, due to my stock harness falling apart and catching on fire a few times
this car is for track use, im not using wipers, or windows, or radios and shit. so dont lecture me please
all the plugs are now inside the car, for the chassis so dont mind the pics if there outide the car
i need to find out, which 12 volt power goes where, and what do i do? hook a multimeter up when im done add ecu power and figure out which fuse i need per wire?
so here, from the battery. its gonna T off from the battery post, one side for switched stuff like, lights, fuel pump, E fans, and then the one side for motor. ill be fusing both power guaged wires wires and on the headlight/switches side ill be using the switches on the ground side, and also using a similar distribution block to fuse them
i figure this should be sorta ka related
MOTOR SIDE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.
from battery, where its gonna be ted off
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4112.jpg)
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2.
to here, on this distribution block, the old connecter that goes to the starter from the motor harness will connect, which goes back to the battery as shown before
i might be using 2 of these on this motor side
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4113.jpg)
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3.
plug from the ecu (ill edit later when i figure out which is which)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4114.jpg)
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4.
plugs from the motor harness, that used to plug in where the s13's battery was, they plgu into the chassis harness. isnt this the spot, where my main functions will be??
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4115.jpg)
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5.
new problem, these 3 plugs. look like they come from the lower motor harness, do they have to do with the trans speed sensors, i dont mean the literal sensors off the trans, but are these from the signals they send? or oil pressure? or anything important ecu related. that i might have to manually tap into a ecu pin? will i need to use these? will i need a auto ecu to bypass them? are these the wrong plugs im talking about?
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4116.jpg)
if its just for the oil pressure and water temp etc. i dont care, ill be putting aftermarket ones on,
so does this seem possible? i understand ill have to wire my own push start (which i have a heavy solenoid to use) etc. but that still is in the distance from where im at now
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anyone?
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4117.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4118.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4119.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4120.jpg)
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#3 is the ECU to dash plug. You can get the water temp signal from there. Oh and also cold start signal wire goes here too.
#4 is the ECU power(gray) and signal wires(brown) The gray is for the ECU power, ignitor, o2, etc. The Brown is for the sensors, like AC idle bump, PS idle bump, and whatever else your SR20 is supposed to be equipped with.
#5 is the lower harness, which is for the starter power/switch, oil pressure gauge, alternator power and signal, and transmission switch sensors. It should be really easy to figure out.
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5 isnt the lower harness... i have the lower harness hooked up?? i thought
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Hmm. they aren't with your lower harness? It could be your neutral safety switch and reverse lamp switch. I'm not too sure anymore. Where is it coming from?
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east coast style wins again
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east coast style wins again
wats dat supozed tu meen??
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all compliments man. all compliments and I'm jealous of what u guys have out there. except the weather
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all compliments man. all compliments and I'm jealous of what u guys have out there. except the weather
I'm jealous of your weather.... You have milder winters, and hurricanes. Very jealous of VA
No joke
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all compliments man. all compliments and I'm jealous of what u guys have out there. except the weather
jealous!? you live in vegas!?
and your towards california, and all the cool people drift stuff. and hella flush homies
here, theres like, a slow build of drifting, slowly growing and getting bigger. and 2 east coast s12 drifters. and lots of rust and rain. and lots of mad tyte civix
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did you hear about the camaro guy david?
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did you hear about the camaro guy david?
what about zack??? i just saw him yesterday lol
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Great to see ur still alive. Just linked a guy your drift videos today because he didn't believe ca20 could dorifto
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most of davids drifting was done with a sohc ka though.
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and your towards california, and all the cool people drift stuff. and hella flush homies
Yeah California is a car enthusiasts dream state. All the cool people drift stuff, the hella flush homies live there and your graced by the most restrictive car modification laws in the country. Good thing you got the beasty Ranger for the street and the s12 for the track if you ever head out west .
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jealous!? you live in vegas!?
and your towards california, and all the cool people drift stuff. and hella flush homies
here, theres like, a slow build of drifting, slowly growing and getting bigger. and 2 east coast s12 drifters. and lots of rust and rain. and lots of mad tyte civix
Don't be complaining! You realize I live in MONTANA!!!! The only people with anything but riced out civic's are a few of my friends with S13's and S14's! No drift events. Some weird little SCCA events and that's it. So be happy for what you got! And it snow's a lot so i barely get to drive the S12 in the winter!
But still. I'm excited to see the SR going in your car!
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these turbo lines are confusing the shit out of me
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sr fsm tells all
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lines are in (minus a missing oil feed banjo bolt)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4121.jpg)
i tapped into my upper elbow for coolant return
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4127.jpg)
used a 95 240sx oxygen sensor, i removed the "small hole" adapter
which is
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4131.jpg)
and added a large hole adapter, (240 one) from a sohc manifold
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4130.jpg)
clips in, hopefully the wires are the same
gotta loop heater core lines
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4128.jpg)
E Z clampz FTW
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4132.jpg)
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update!
bought some cut steering knuckles from 180sx alan! they will be in soon
okayy, tying things up, picked up some parts
spare fender, driveshaft, headlight cover (mine is dented), mk2 grill and marker light assembly
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4133.jpg)
got a battery cutoff at the local performance shop
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4136.jpg)
found a datsun symbol off a hidden pickup at the yard!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4137.jpg)
mmn, it all fits under the hood!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4135.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4134.jpg)
getting very close to startup
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Good to see you should have it up and running for drift season. For a second there I was getting a little worried .
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even with the IC bein pretty hugh and the piping being what it is I gotta say ur mid mount setup is not too bad. Possible to rotate the compressor outlet to point towards the front of the car? Not sure if it'll hit anything but should make the piping shorter if it fits.
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maybe iunoo. ill look at it later.
id rather get a midmount i/c and do that too. but for now that peice was already like that, i just added 2 bends
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full pump assembly... done. lol
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4139.jpg)
k heres my gangster ass push start. its adjustable, its on a clamp that i can slide back and forth, lol. just for now
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4142.jpg)
THIS connector i found in the bay has 2 thick gauge cables, ones black/white (for starter solenoid which goes to my button) and the other is white. im GUESSING the white 10 gauge wire is my alternator feed..? so ill be hooking that up with the same gauge wire to the battery? i dunno. im gonna run the car first, and remove the battery terminal. if it shuts off then ill know i was running on the battery which means my alt isnt working.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4140.jpg)
heres the distribution block doing its job to all the main functions
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4143.jpg)
ive been hacking away at my screwed up stock harness for free wires. using the same color wires as the sr has. yes there is a jack in my door. it used to hold up my windows!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4144.jpg)
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oopps duububllee posost
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i have spark out of every spark plug, and fuel squirting out of all the injecters.
could my old gas be causing this? maybe the maf is broken since the wreck. iuno
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BAM. video up soon
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heres the video, its running kinda weird. has a intake leak or two i think. but who cares, for now its on!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImJ0d-JLprQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImJ0d-JLprQ)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4150.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4147.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4146.jpg)
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it runs better when i disconnect the neg terminal on the battery while its on. hmm
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good shit.
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very good david.
put the black box back on though, none of that running a hose from the vc back into the block!!
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Nice!
Now get it all buttoned up and get some drift footage!
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david u really need to sell me those front wheels
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Nice!
Now get it all buttoned up and get some drift footage!
whats that black box doo?
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whats that black box doo?
it records audio and data just before impact
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congrats on getting it running!
some info on the wiring. you must already know some of it tho
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4114.jpg)
The SR start signal should be the orange wire if its the same as the KAs.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4115.jpg)
main EFI connections, you must have already made these...if its like the KA, black/yellow=power for air regulator, black/white=ECU power when key on, red=power all the time, black/red=thicker power wire for coil and injectors, and apparently there is a brown wire 12v for the o2 sensor.... read http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine...-SR20_t_26.html (http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html) for more detail....
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4116.jpg)
the fat two prong connector is the connection for the alternator. Im assuming youre running the SR lower harness, but basically there needs to be a fat power wire running to the isolated stud (look for the plastic insulation) on the alterator, thats where one of the wires in this connector runs to. the other wire is for the field control, there should be a two terminal plug that actually clips in to the alternator. One terminal should have a fat wire and the other terminal is probably a yellow/red or white/red smaller wire. Reality is that these two wires just splice together later down the line, so you can run a nice piece of wire between the two and run a fused connection directly to the battery. use a fusible link or something like a megafuse just in case something happens. its a bit hard to explain, i can take some pics or something if you want some clarification....
those other two connectors arent necessary unless you want backup lights.
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thanks sterling. ill be looking into it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17zkV2RZ16o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17zkV2RZ16o)
i figured it out, the CAS was set to all wack. so i pulled the vc and reset it to stock,
dude its so fast! it spins the 235 r15's like there nothing!
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i tried to do a small takeoff video but i cant hold the camera steer and shift. when i drop the clutch in second gear it just spins haha, here. i shifted second to 5th by accident at the end. im not used to it and its too exciting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV4XkLcooy0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV4XkLcooy0)
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20 seconds into the video you fail! Getting used to the new clutch? Haha.
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ill get a better video. i walked in oil before i got in the car, and ive adjusted the clutch pedal. and the stage 4 also all together is making it hard, but im getting used to it
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sounds like a beast for sure
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ive got my new mk2 front grill and corners. and lip kit all back on, kit still needs some paint and it still hasnt been washed from decembers drift event. still gotta rebondo and sand the headlight covers to the hood
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4152.jpg)
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leave it as it is...it looks pissed off! this is page 69 btw...lolz.
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its a factory catch can/breather box. use it.
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headlights
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4156.jpg)
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hell yeah dude! badass! looking forward to some super legit slide vids!
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this shit is epic.
grats on the startup
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this shit is epic.
grats on the startup
thanks
i ran the 1/8th today
8.611 at 84 mph
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solid 13second car. nice. http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm (http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm)
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How is your rear suspension handling all this new power? Didn't you still need to upgrade that eventually? I remember you talking about that awhile ago.
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How is your rear suspension handling all this new power? Didn't you still need to upgrade that eventually? I remember you talking about that awhile ago.
Which reminds me. I know of a set of Emotor (Yeah, I know) Coilovers for 250. Seized ride height, but good dampners. Would be perfect for your rears
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How is your rear suspension handling all this new power? Didn't you still need to upgrade that eventually? I remember you talking about that awhile ago.
dude i dunno. but everytime i let off the clutch hard i heard a big thud from the rear
its a stage 4 comp clutch, btw it works great! im suprised the diff welds are holding up so far...
kinda sounds like when my driveshaft bolts were loose, but there not i checked..
im guessing its the links on the axle? could i add a panhard bar?
the spring and shock setup, im gonna keep for awhile. just drop in a tad bit stiffer springs and probally get new shocks
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have you done subframe bushings yet?
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have you done subframe bushings yet?
^Although there are no subframe bushings on a SRA, I second this comment as it is probably the 4 link bushings.
Mine does it too, and the bushings are the culprit. Only happens when accelerating and up shifting hard/during clutch kicks.
I'm still working on some kind of solution for it though. I might end up turning some delrin on the lathe later on once I get the axle off to weld the diff. I will have a solution for ya in that department, as windo-weld doesn't have a high enough of a shore rating (I think it's around 30 if I recall correctly) for it to be of any significant durability. I have a couple ideas floatin around in my head for it. but I must test em before I give any verdict
A panhard bar would be of zero use
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Just have to say Freaking awesome David! Sad thing is you have completed two swaps in the time i have not completed one lol. Anyway looks and sounds great, any future plans for the swap?
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David B : l like Datsun symbol on your S12
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^Although there are no subframe bushings on a SRA, I second this comment as it is probably the 4 link bushings.
Mine does it too, and the bushings are the culprit. Only happens when accelerating and up shifting hard/during clutch kicks.
I'm still working on some kind of solution for it though. I might end up turning some delrin on the lathe later on once I get the axle off to weld the diff. I will have a solution for ya in that department, as windo-weld doesn't have a high enough of a shore rating (I think it's around 30 if I recall correctly) for it to be of any significant durability. I have a couple ideas floatin around in my head for it. but I must test em before I give any verdict
A panhard bar would be of zero use
isnt there a link for aftermarket links? they were expensive though.
can i go with solid bushings? like washers and shit, metal to metal? i dont mind added noise. as long as it doesnt harm my chassis
Just have to say Freaking awesome David! Sad thing is you have completed two swaps in the time i have not completed one lol. Anyway looks and sounds great, any future plans for the swap?
thanks, im gonna keep it stock. im scared to take it over 7 psi. i want it reliable and i dont feel like building a motor just yet.
my plans are to drift alot, get these cut knuckles in, new p/s rack. add power steering, work on suspension, buy some wide wheels. etc.
David B : l like Datsun symbol on your S12
thanks, i saw it on a .. 720? some datsun pickup at the yard. i was so excited!
finished the exhaust, 3 inch, same beat hks muffler
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oh yeah forgot this was solid axle.
did you put the breather box back on yet?
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oh yeah forgot this was solid axle.
did you put the breather box back on yet?
ill do it tonight, just for you
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f-hd3sx1rA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f-hd3sx1rA)
BTW, finished the exhaust
finished the exhaust, 3 inch, same beat hks muffler
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dont do it for me, do it for you car/engine.
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isnt there a link for aftermarket links? they were expensive though.
can i go with solid bushings? like washers and shit, metal to metal? i dont mind added noise. as long as it doesnt harm my chassis
That's one of the ideas in the back of my head. You could certainly go with it (I'm a cheapo too. I won't put a huge chunk of cash into throwaway vehicle parts, such as that)
One of my ideas was machining a hockey puck to the dimensions. It's cheap, machining it wouldn't be that hard, and it sure beats making a ton of work out of it. My idea was to drill out the hole that is the size of the bolt, and use that hole to turn it down on a lathe so that it would be the exact dimensions (As the newly made hole would be direct center)
Easy peasy
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I'm diggin the headlight setup!
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4165.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4161.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4163.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4164.jpg)
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bad ass.
MORE PICS
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7 psi?
ur gay again
12psi all day no worries. its not even fast
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7 psi, with the clutch i have, and some fine suspension tuning will keep me reliable.
id like to go to ten, once i get more cool gauges to let me know wtf is going on
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by the way, i have a adjustable wastegate actuater......
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With the clutch you have? The stock clutch will hold 300 no problem.
12PSI on a T25g will only get you maybe 260, depending on a few things.
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maybe hold 300 if you drive like a girl.
there is a lot of abuse on a clutch when drifting.
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maybe hold 300 if you drive like a girl.
there is a lot of abuse on a clutch when drifting.
+1 the stock clutch will hold 300... just like my sr will hold 12 psi.. but it wont last.
my next step is just 10 psi. but i want to have the money for some things etc. before i ever decide changing the boost up
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Uhh.... It took 4 years to do anything to my SR at 12PSI, and my stock clutch held just fine, I put a ton of abuse on my clutch too.
Though with the stock 370CC injectors, it does start to run 100% duty cycle (though keeping an 11.5:1 AFR), but if you don't bounce it off the rev limiter, it'll be fine.
10PSI stock would be completely safe.
Edit:
Oh, and don't be such a girl!
Dive in, it's not like it's your daily driver, it's a race car now.
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ill do 10 psi.. should i upgrade anything? how does a adjustable wastegate actuator work?
i probally will bounce off the rev limiter some
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Adjustable wastegate actuators work by pretensioning the spring inside, much like preload on a "coilover" suspension.
If you're going to be hitting the rev limit a lot, I would get some rocker arm stoppers, I would lower the rev limiter to 6800RPM.
It won't make more power past 6500RPM anyway, so what's the point of taking it past that... But if you must, rocker arm stoppers are better than nothing. Even though I don't like them, it's a bandaid.
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i wouldnt get rocker arms stoppers.
better to have them fly out and be able to put them back in, the to have them break.
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rocker arm stoppers are fairly inexpensive so if you are worried about, it go that route. But honestly sr20 are pretty bulletproof, on stock psi you should be able to abuse the shit out of it without any worry. I know a guy who was running 28psi on a stock sr20 (internal wise) and drag raced the shit out of it for a year and a half. just say'in.
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Adjustable wastegate actuators work by pretensioning the spring inside, much like preload on a "coilover" suspension.
If you're going to be hitting the rev limit a lot, I would get some rocker arm stoppers, I would lower the rev limiter to 6800RPM.
It won't make more power past 6500RPM anyway, so what's the point of taking it past that... But if you must, rocker arm stoppers are better than nothing. Even though I don't like them, it's a bandaid.
i wish i had a rev limiter.. i want one
the sr has greddy rocker arm stoppers, and i have a bunch of spare rocker arms from my parts sr
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take stoppers out and avoid damage.
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The rocker is going to go bouncing around in the head one way or another, RAS or not.
At least the RAS will help hold them in there at the OE rev limit (7600RPM), if you wanted to take it to 8000+, then I'd say forget about it.
Edit:
I should say, if you're going to be running it at or near the factory limit, the RAS will at least keep things together, but any higher and you'll probably still kick out a arm or break one.
But I seriously doubt you'll break one at stock limits, with stock springs and valves.
You might get lucky when one pops out and not damage anything, but it's unlikely, and you'll still lose the guide and shim and have to probably dig that out of the oil pan.
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david, talk to people who spend as much time on the track as you, who run srs, and actually build them, and have experience, and you will get told to not run rocker arm stoppers.
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Whatever you say.
Dave, just listen to Brewster, king of all SR knowledge, master SR builder, and general god of all SRs.
Just ignore me, as I don't know shit, apparently.
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its true.
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I don't know from my own experience, but I do know my friend with a Fully built SR does not run the Rocker arm stoppers, and was advised to do this from Mazworx who build his motor. I would say they know what they are talking about from their 1100hp s15 drag car. But that is just my 2 cents. Not trying to cause any problems Matt because I am positive you know more about SR's than me.... Just sharing what I have heard.
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damn was cfinch in this thread?
anyway
remove and replace with ca18det. no stoppers needed. har har
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damn was cfinch in this thread?
anyway
remove and replace with ca18det. no stoppers needed. har har
nah, next time this sr comes out. im going to find the nearest q45 at the junkyard. no jokes. maybe next years plan. on a roll, 1 year ca20, one year, ka, this year sr, gotta hop up some cylinders
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haha i though u let urself get talked outta the VH
who gonna VH first u or i? hmmm. probably u cuz my upgradings are slow and my ca18det isnt played out yet. def gonna VH though
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If anyone remembers Before i picked up my VQ35 i was going to go vh route. After alot of research its completely not worth it by the time you buy the vh, 300zx tranny, adapter plate, fix oil starvation issues and make it fit you could of purchased a VQ35 and have more reliable power and much more room to upgrade! Im one of those dont cross bread brands guys so why not do something like a super charged VG30de or a single turbo VG30de. I drew up a bunch of plans on how to make a single turbo VG fit easily. id be happy to share
VH is unique i geuss but its <VQ and VG
Id say go big with a VG30DE single turbo at like 14psi and with a rom tune at 400whp (and of course you will need a few other upgrades like intake exhaust injectors.)
If you decide to go VG30de single turbo id be happy to scan some of my ideas
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I'm a recent convert to the land of SR. Having built & run the Big Block CA for many years I do like the smooth power of the SR. It also made pretty much the same power on it's first rough tune with similar upgrades (HKS FvonV ECU, Sard 550cc injectors, S15 turbo).
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okay nvm on the vh. you can have that iggy. ill stick with the carbed 350. or is that a downgrade? lol
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Stick with the SR bro if you really want more power go with one of the options i suggested above. (even tho you can get that same power out of a sr )
my s14 with a sr swap is my daily driver and iv been driving that bitch HARD at 13psi for 2 years and have had NO problems. except its a s14 sr and my stupid plastic pcv valve broke... but other then that PERFECT1
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Stick with the SR bro if you really want more power go with one of the options i suggested above. (even tho you can get that same power out of a sr )
my s14 with a sr swap is my daily driver and iv been driving that bitch HARD at 13psi for 2 years and have had NO problems. except its a s14 sr and my stupid plastic pcv valve broke... but other then that PERFECT1
I also have several friends that daily drive their SR's and make good power out of them. Think about all that extra weight in the front of the car that is unneeded when you can get the SR the same power pretty easy. Much easier to stick with the SR and do some upgrades and you will have a very quick, fun car.
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SR is dope, i like it. Mine finally got rod knock after 180,000 km, i beat on it hard, way to much redline. Stay SR, boosted power is always more fun
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took my steering rack apart and followed seishuku's how too
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4178.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4179.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4180.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4181.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4182.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4183.jpg)
QUESTION. does the s12 rack with s13 tie rods in general have more angle then s13?
stock angle, for reference
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4177.jpg)
i put my "mildly" cut knuckles on. i say, mild. because the drifter/shop who previously owned these knuckles said they didnt have enough angle, they werent aggresive enough. so instead of cutting the same ones he went and got new ones.
i eyeballed the alignment and DAMN. my tie rod is hitting the control arm at lock, and im pretty sure the wheel would be hitting the frame at full lock. im gonna have to make a stopper on the control arm for the knuckle. this shit is wack
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4185.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4186.jpg)
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okay, tie rods dont rub,
im rubbing on my swaybar, so i know if i get wheel spacers im pretty sure i can milk some more angle out of the knuckles!
i havent even added tie rod spacers yet. im pretty satisfied so far for the amount i spent
sway bar to sway bar is 3 turns.. i know the rack by itself does around 3.5 so im missing about .5-.5 ish turn
i need a alignment sometime too i guezz
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4187.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4188.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4189.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4190.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4191.jpg)
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david are you running s12 control arms?
do they not have stoppers?
on s13 the tie rod hits the control arm from the factory, most cut the factory stop off and add a plate thats much thinner.
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im running s12 control arms
the tie rod isnt hitting it now since i have it bolted down. its sitting on the tension rod/ sway bar (s12)
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so, heres the caravan, first time towing my s12 with my truck and not my moms. i was worried about all the rust, but it held up fine.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4196.jpg)
i was outside auto expectations and i noticed a half ass roll bar/harness bar for a s13 coupe that was never finished or used, asked about it, need a bar that gioes across, some more hammering, etc.
it actually fits perfectly tensioned in if i take a rachet strap and pull the two tubs together in the front, allows clearence. then when i take the strap off its locked in. its not getting welded in until i get more money and tubing for the harness. just a temp harness bar before i get cash for a cage
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4197.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4198.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4199.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4200.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4201.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/105_4202.jpg)
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Wow so that is a s13 cage?
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OMG, love the lawn mower totally your back up drift car right
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my diff exploded at the 1/8 mile!
ran a 8.52 today
ripped the welds off, and now have diff soup
i brought my s110 diff up there and tried to put it on,
two things i noticed. it bolts up. axles fit in it, but, the piece that the driveshaft connects too is too short....
BUT, instead of swapping my s12 one onto the s110 one.. im gonna try a whole s13 driveshaft, ill update this later
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When you welded your diff did you add plates or just weld the joints
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OMG i love the lawn mower totally your back up drift car right
When you welded your diff did you at plates or just weld it??
please read what you write before you click the post button.
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please read what you write before you click the post button.
What you talking about
Girl friend gets pissed if i am on the computer to much, have to type fast SHAME
Sorry
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cleaned up some of the rats nest, still looks kinda bad but you wont notice once the dash is in, its actually very simplized. hooked up some of my gauges, most important, aem afr. w/e it looks good enough for me. some day off im gonna paint the floor too.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4223.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4224.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4225.jpg)
its very cool knowing which wires are which since technically my stock chassis harness is gone.
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that gauge cluster is win. true drift status. If my stock gauges didnt work i'd be doing something like that. they wont die though
peep these
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/Guildjs/Building%20new%20car/IMG_1023.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/Guildjs/Building%20new%20car/IMG_1025.jpg)
spider eyes
local driver Josh Guild's S14. hot car
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yea its made from cardboard tape and zip ties lololoLOL
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brembo rotors, cheap duralast pads for now, s110 calipers in (i really missed having disk brakes!!) diff is in, fluid in. gotta make a new bracket for my e brake cable (more info on that later)
bolting the 4 point in now, sourcing pipe, getting it all welded and my harness in for the ods event
missing a caliper banjo bolt. ugh. and i need a hand to bleed the brakes.
OMG MASSIVE SPACERZ
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4226.jpg)
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those arent spacers...those are tanks you have attached to your rotors!
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tanks that make steelies flush!
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harness bar in
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4228.jpg)
beat the shit out of my rear fenders.. no more rub, il hammer with a dolley and even it out some other time
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4231.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/102_4229.jpg)
wehoo all buttoned up for tomorrow
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yous gots muds flapssss
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aww you noticed. eya ive had them for awhile. put them on today i was lazy and just self tap screwed them in real quick
i feel like flapping drift tread will rip them off..
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fill them with epoxy lol
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omg david wtf did u do to ur fenders? ur not supposed to flip that shit inside out
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omg david wtf did u do to ur fenders? ur not supposed to flip that shit inside out
Yeah I saw that and was like....wtf
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i think he was doing it like the corollas
(http://motormavens.com/emAlbum/albums/Antonio%20Alvendia/Events/Formula%20D%20Seattle%202009/IMG_6203_trent_stromkins_ae86_copy.jpg)
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You murdered the fenders
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I like it. They might slice some competitors tires during tandem if you're close enough.
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I personally dont think it looks bad, but thats just my opinion. As fas as styling goes, David is the first person to try it on a s12 (that i know of). Maybe after a few tweaks its will be a world wide s12 FAD
GO DAVID!
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lol, i do what i want. ill hit em with a dolley later some day and straighten them better,
no camber sucks.. i dont have any "tuck"
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that s12 is hawt son.
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i love breakin shit!! this is awesome, my diff assploded, i got positive camber on my front right tire, my turbo gasket went, my downpipe gasket went, all this first month of hard driving at the 1/8 mile and drifting.
it felt good to work on my car and replace my turbo gasket
poop. it takes about an 40 min to remove my turbo assembly
wobble extensions = win. i can now get to all my manifold nuts with rachet/socket
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4242.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4243.jpg)
going oem this time
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4244.jpg)
need a oem manifold gasket too.. ill get one someday.
this is my dp gasket. kinda sucks this one was expensive, one of those beefy ones in aisle 5 in autozones domestic performance parts section
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4245.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4246.jpg)
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Hey David good idea with the oem gaskets i went threw two sets of after market ones myself. Best thing i ever did was fork out the money for a s15 7 layer oem mani gasket and oem turbo gasket. Shittiest thing ever is the first tinme it happens most people think there turbo blew
Dont know about on the s12's but on my s14 i have to take off my dump pipe to take out my turbo out so to make it easier i purchased some Allen head bolts for the dump pipe makes it a world easier!
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Hey David good idea with the oem gaskets i went threw two sets of after market ones myself. Best thing i ever did was fork out the money for a s15 7 layer oem mani gasket and oem turbo gasket. Shittiest thing ever is the first tinme it happens most people think there turbo blew
Dont know about on the s12's but on my s14 i have to take off my dump pipe to take out my turbo out so to make it easier i purchased some Allen head bolts for the dump pipe makes it a world easier!
yea, i have to remove my upper coolant neck to get the whole thing out easy
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tighten the fuck out of those turbo nuts, then tack weld them.
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tighten the fuck out of those turbo nuts, then tack weld them.
thats what im doin. should i use washerS?
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sickkkkk
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thats what im doin. should i use washerS?
i did. guess you dont really need them though.
for some reason it seemed like it would be eaiser to grind away with washer there if i have to remove it again.
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i did. guess you dont really need them though.
for some reason it seemed like it would be eaiser to grind away with washer there if i have to remove it again.
yea thats what i was thinking. so just a tack weld from nut to washer to turbo
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Why not just use some of those all metal pinch nuts? Like the oem header nuts.
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Why not just use some of those all metal pinch nuts? Like the oem header nuts.
because tack welds are cooler and cheaper
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and the stock ones dont work.
thats why pretty much every sr that comes over has a blown turbo gasket, or on its way out.
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I've never had any problems with my gaskets...
They're the hella cheap ones too.
I donno what you guys are doing wrong.
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driving like men.
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driving like men.
jeeze. such hate O.o
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now with 74 pages of lol.
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I've never had any problems with my gaskets...
They're the hella cheap ones too.
I donno what you guys are doing wrong.
x2 never any problem with gaskets, just rod knock
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found some pictars from umd
(http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r292/ryanwatters511/UM%20Car%20Show%202010/mini-IMG_2855.jpg)
(http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r292/ryanwatters511/UM%20Car%20Show%202010/mini-IMG_2856.jpg)
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Nice pics David! That SR looks so natural in there.
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david b is far to cool for a hood.
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david b is far to cool for a hood.
fuck hoods!
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hey david sell me them front wheels lol
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fuck hoods!
Well at least you put your hatch back on.
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yezz
im drifting at summit, for 2 days.. saturday and sunday. 2 days of awesome! cant wait
got 10 tires to burn
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lucky fuker. our may event cancelled
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what every garage needs! a rollable work station to get werk done!
pretty much a steel computer desk i added wheels and a bracket for the toolbox, then a 5/16ths 25 inch by 5 foot steel plate ontop
just need to buy a better welder, and add a light
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4282.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4280.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4283.jpg)
oh and making the gf weld!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4278.jpg)
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haa that is a sweet setup. very nice. whats the story on the chop saw I'm jealous. and get some sleeves on that girl. u dont want spot burn scars on her. not good lookin
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the chop saw is a gift from my dad. essential tool now.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0523001942.jpg)
anyone wanna buy my turbo hood? the center piece
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$5 shipped
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hey david what happens if you space the fronts out, can you get more angle from not hitting the tension rods?
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shit I'm totally jealous of that garage. Something like that to rent over here is like, I dunno, $200 PCM ? $$$$s anyway (Well, ££££s, but you get the idea).
Anyway sweeeeeet thread.
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hey david what happens if you space the fronts out, can you get more angle from not hitting the tension rods?
possibility, i do want monster offset and fender flares up front. in due time. i will
shit I'm totally jealous of that garage. Something like that to rent over here is like, I dunno, $200 PCM ? $$$$s anyway (Well, ££££s, but yo get the idea).
Anyway sweeeeeet thread.
yea without a garage id be fucked. i have alot of stuff
heres some random pix of the garage
i get the left side
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4287.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4288.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4290.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4291.jpg)
and heres my front end damage, i hit a tree head on at summit at like 35 mph due to not having rear brakes. but i got a new bumper support and bent/ ziptied it all back up
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4295.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4294.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4293.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4296.jpg)
i need to go lowar
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4289.jpg)
once i get a tad bit stiffer springs and better shocks to keep the rear from rubbing ill probally go lowar and cut out my fenders go wider and get fender flares
MONSTER INTAKE
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4297.jpg)
lees old strut towar bar
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4298.jpg)
and the sweet interior
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4285.jpg)
i has the money cage is coming next week!
ive started to get random misfire this past week. happens around 1/4 throttle but goes away once i start getting high into rpms
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david when is the next event down there?
im thinking about coming down.
wish you came up to ecb it was awesome.
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david when is the next event down there?
im thinking about coming down.
wish you came up to ecb it was awesome.
hyperfest is soon but its just the tandem compeition this year, no drift nirvana. next dn event is in like july
i wanted to go to ecb but im realy focusing on getting the car stable sort of, next year... though i do plan on going up there soon once the cage is done etc.
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stripped car, rollbar out
did sum lowaring. hehe
also lowerd the shock mount holes, ill reinforce them soon. since im going an inch or so shorter i dont want to ruin my shock stroke
i hate fluxcore.
oh no. my fenders have been cut out!
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lol david wtf did you do to your fenders
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lol david wtf did you do to your fenders
i cut those pieces of shit out! FENDAR FLARE TIME NIGGA FENDAR FLARE TIME NEEGA
done with the rear. new rachet strap and mounting point for it. wonder if ti will look lower.. i cut a good half pinky length out of the pole
the billsteins actually arent blown, they still are decently hard to put down, and feel great!
great shock i recommend to anyone (who doesnt have adjustables and utar sheet)
and since i lowerd the shock mount then i should have the same play as before. so they will last
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4304.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4305.jpg)
WTB a rear right s13 caliper. mine is fucked
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just dropped the car off in maryland, cage s coming now. its gonna be like two weeks though it sucks
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aww you noticed. eya ive had them for awhile. put them on today i was lazy and just self tap screwed them in real quick
i feel like flapping drift tread will rip them off..
lol u bought those from me huh? hey still need an s13 caliper ill trade u 3 cat stickarz! i wanna see more slideage!!!!
we got two wrecked s13's in "the lot" my buddys house lolz
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id do ti for cat stickars, but id have to pay him. and i really have no money for awhile. i just spent alot on the cage
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how much on the cage if you don't mind me askin?
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how much on the cage if you don't mind me askin?
should i tell? i should keep all that a secret.. hehehe
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id do ti for cat stickars, but id have to pay him. and i really have no money for awhile. i just spent alot on the cage
cat stickars it is then ill pull one this weekend and hold it 4 yah!
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man i really miss my car my garage is so damn empty
i got so bored i changed the trucks oil, and started checking fluids and shit.
started messing with the moped.. reading the nissan fsm. ugh. wtf! i want it back naow!
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lol 2 weeks I've been without mine for 8 months!
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yeah 2 weeks aint shit lol....
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Try 12 months and -1100 bucks haha
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4307.jpg)
yum
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Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooo! Cool like this!! V
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Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Cool like this!! V
are yours 280 zx flares too? did you hack them up at all? please explain if ya did
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are yours 280 zx flares too? did you hack them up at all? please explain if ya did
wait till you see mine. Actually, I can't wait until I see mine.
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im excited. im ordering some diamond racing steelies next
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im excited. im ordering some diamond racing steelies next
It's better to call Diamond. I tried Email and responses take forever.
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Mine are ZG flares, I hacked what needed to be hacked on my car but it looks pretty good
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Oh shit another ZG flare owner. Don't hack the flares, just hack your car. The flares are expensive. lol.
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Oh shit another ZG flare owner. Don't hack the flares, just hack your car. The flares are expensive. lol.
yea boi. DOPENESS
with the se kit, the flares, turbo hood, dope wideness wheels, sr20, some suspension work, hydro e brake gonna be orderd soon. im on a roll to make a tandemable car!
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*subscribe* This looks impressive...
Interested in the cage design...
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cage almost done!
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tell em to hurry up
weld faster bitches *cracks whip*
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tell em to hurry up
weld faster bitches *cracks whip*
he actually started on it yesterday... and its like halfway done. im gonna go stop by and check it out. pix tu cum
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do what i want pics of this wreck and sale of this car
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do what i want pics of this wreck and sale of this car
im jking
i stopped by to check out the work, lee started yesterday and has made tons of progress. he hadnt welded anything in yet till i got there. hes still working on the final fitment
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4319.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4320.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4315.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4310.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4312.jpg)
diagonal bar, harness bar, drivers barr, and passenger bar yet to come
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muy bueno!
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muy bueno!
haha that took a second to process
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nice dude... this is sick........ i got that caliper whenever u need it pm me ur address and ill send it your way i need cat stickars lol. if shit is spelled wrong m pretty lit dude,,,,,
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Is it possible to get more pics of the clearances and joins at the top of the cage?
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Is it possible to get more pics of the clearances and joins at the top of the cage?
once i get the car back i can take pix of whatever you like, i can measure them too
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can we have sex?
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lolz @ fan.
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Sweeetness....
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cage is done, hydro e brake orderd. picking up the car tonight
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(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh49/zacksadberry/cage1.jpg)
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh49/zacksadberry/cage2.jpg)
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Ok, seriously, who did your cage? I want to pay them a visit very soon.
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lee, local guy that drifts ka-t s14
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb219/bill4458/lee3.jpg)
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb219/bill4458/lee.jpg)
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb219/bill4458/lee2.jpg)
hes got all the specs for my hatch saved for next time too. he charged me 800
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4328.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4327.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4326.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4324.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4323.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4321.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4329.jpg)
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800$ for materials and labour? did you strip the interior yourself in advance? Thats cheap as hell!
hey, I totaly just realized you're solid rear axle... Im gonna have to go back through your thread and check for any and all picks.. hopefully I can find some more to better show how its all hooked up and where it mounts n how etc etc. I envy you!!
I assume you're not putting the full interior back in, but just curious if your gona put the interior partialy back in.. Im sure theres still room for speakers in the doors even with the cage!! haha
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David, what ever happened to when you used to be this kid who barely even knew what a distributor was, or how to change a starter?
I think back to when you first came on the boards, compared to now.. rolling a caged sr20 swapped drift rig.
Wow. Just wow.
Congrats buddy.
-dan
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David, what ever happened to when you used to be this kid who barely even knew what a distributor was, or how to change a starter?
I think back to when you first came on the boards, compared to now.. rolling a caged sr20 swapped drift rig.
Wow. Just wow.
Congrats buddy.
-dan
i know haha, alot has changed since i joined the forums. its amazing how much ive learned from here and other forums.
changed the oil pan gasket, painted the cage. BLUE of course. got a blue pool noodle too! and neon zip ties
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4330.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4331.jpg)
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Odd that it's not even left n right. But the cage looks comprehencive and cage spacing looks good.
Glad you got the bends around the side of the seat! Sides can get squeezy!
How's (clutch?) foot room with the cage?
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DAMN!!!
I think a white interior would make that cage look even sexier!!
but dang!
Im curious to see what you do with the interior.
But shit, congrats on that cage yo! I salute you!
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DAMN!!!
I think a white interior would make that cage look even sexier!!
but dang!
Im curious to see what you do with the interior.
But shit, congrats on that cage yo! I salute you!
thanks!
what interior?? lol. im putting myy dash in, center console. and floor mats.
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good color choice. dont put a ton of stickers all over it. you drive it like you stole it.
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buy real foam so you dont have to worry about passing tech later. places will notice and fail you.
looks good.
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floor mats... ??? seriously? any track/race/autocross etc event I've been to, they make you toss em out! (Okay okay, I've only made it to ONE autocross.. hehe..)
I guess it is nice to keep the rug clean.. oh wait.. are you even putting that in? haha
I think it kinda sucks that you're ditching the interior, but I totaly understand as well.
I just love seeing a caged car with all its interior intact. its just soo sweet.
but yeah. be looking forward to more picks n hopefully some vids!
what kinda of cage is that? like how many point/style/what is it good for legaly? looks an awefull lot like a sort of stock car cage from when I was a kidlet, cept it doesnt go to/carty on into the engine bay and such. (my old man and unckles raced stock cars, old fashioned hillbilly oval dirt tracks type.. lol)
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i take the floor mats out when i drift
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relined the rear, ill do another coat some day. its got flakey stuff from the paint haha
and cut the dash to fit it in
after work today ill be changing my brake master cylinder out again in efforts to get rear brakes working
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4334.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4336.jpg)
OH and relocated my a/c lol
no girls with long hair can sit in the passenger seat
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4337.jpg)
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auxillary cooler fan is sick!!!!!! nice color choice on teh cage.
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they can sit there...they just haz to wear helmetzzzzzz....on the streetzzzzz.
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Lol@cooler fan. That is secks.
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I was going to put a fan on the sunroof too!
great minds. Though mine was going to be a pusher on the outside with a rally style scoop over the top covering it up.
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lee, local guy that drifts ka-t s14
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb219/bill4458/lee3.jpg)
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb219/bill4458/lee.jpg)
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb219/bill4458/lee2.jpg)
hes got all the specs for my hatch saved for next time too. he charged me 800
Heh, I know where my next paycheck is going. PM me his contact information.
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haha.. the "other car" that took up my garage for the last forever had a twin fan n shroud from the front of a windstar sitting over it.
Looked almost like it was made to be there! haha
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great progress david. I dont like the "halo" configuration but I guess the builder was into it at the time
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0702002214.jpg)
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^^^ Those look like they'd be way easy to install, but I'm guessing they're not. I hope you'll be doing a write-up on what it takes to get that bad boy in working order.
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^^^ Those look like they'd be way easy to install, but I'm guessing they're not. I hope you'll be doing a write-up on what it takes to get that bad boy in working order.
very simple too install, though this unit has SAE thread pitch or something, and my car is metric. so im probally gonna have to just cut/flare and add the right fittings on
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very simple too install, though this unit has SAE thread pitch or something, and my car is metric. so im probally gonna have to just cut/flare and add the right fittings on
^I like this idea better than what I'm about to say
They do have adapters at autozone/napa/advance/oreilly's/carquest/bumper2bumper/etc for it all... They're six inches long and go from the metric on the car to the SAE. I think the part number is 27851
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0703001700.jpg)
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0704000219a.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0704000219.jpg)
used a flare tool and added SAE fittings so it would bolt all up.
flare tools are fun! i thought it was hard to do.. i liked it alot.
e brake works, well at least in the garage. i have yet to test it. but i can stop the car from rolling backwards lol
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brake works, well at least in the garage. i have yet to test it. but i can stop the car from rolling backwards lol
Becoming more rare in these parts.
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Becoming more rare in these parts.
Mine does....
Kinda....
If it's less than a 5 degree gradient.....
Yeah, my ebrake is useless..... When I bought it it had no problems locking it up... I dunno.
I'm going pretty much the route david did. of which,
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reinforce the tunnel where its mounted. just needs a piece of plate welded in under it as sort of a base. stiffen the floor and spread the load of u yankin the handle
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Thats pretty neato!!!!
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Very cool!
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4343.jpg)
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awesome! it looks great.
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Sweeet! Well done! Looks like a comonly used one too.
I like Iggys idea on the mounting re-inforcment.
I remember somewhere talking about hooking the brake up to an actuator etc run off a push button mounted on the shifter knob.. or maybe I kept that one to myself... ? hehe
personaly I never had a problem with my normal stock e-brake.. until I left it on halfway around a course once in my excited grabbin at things. Although it still works pretty good, enough to lock up the rears still...
new shoes and adjustment would do wonders, however theres no hope for it to have the strength of a hydro-handbrake..
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/0803000040.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803000123.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803000125.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803000127.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803000149.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803000152.jpg)
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/0803000040.jpg)
what in the hell is that, i can not tell what it is right now. Being hald cut doesn't help either lol
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haha a nail??
magnetic oil drain plug?
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haha a nail??
magnetic oil drain plug?
transmisssion!
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so what it going on with the SR now.
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Hahahah David I found this, wow remember that shit?
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Hahahah David I found this, wow remember that shit?
lol i even remember that
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803000127.jpg)
Nothing like the look and smell of watered down oil.
Yummy. One of the worst smelling engine destuction methods out there
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so did the HG blow AGAIN? AND theres a nail in your tranny? haha
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when i first saw the pic of the brown liquid i thought david was making pancakes....not going to lie...
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so i found a longblock for 800 bux...
im thinking about putting the longblock in, and rebuilding mine in the meantime.
so did the HG blow AGAIN? AND theres a nail in your tranny? haha
my head is probally warped
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dude you never do get a break do you?
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How the HELL do you get a nail inside the trans???
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How the HELL do you get a nail inside the trans???
LOOL i dropped it by accident somehow like a year ago, i forgot about it.
but i got it back!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/0803001641.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803001831.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0803001831a.jpg)
ill do the bottom end tomorrow or tonight
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any idea where the gasket blew or how it did?
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any idea where the gasket blew or how it did?
gasket looks fine, its like water/oil lifting over or something due to a warped head or reusing head studs lol
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when i first saw the pic of the brown liquid i thought david was making pancakes....not going to lie...
I thought it was paint.
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If you think you are having issues with the Sr20, (very minor ones I might add like lean/rich etc...) I can assure you its not going to be much better if you go to something different. Its a damned near perfect engine you got so my advice, build this block properly, take your time, dont half ass and slowly work out the tuning kinks and you shall be very happy. You run an engine pretty damned hard when drifting, build it right now and enjoy. Fast, reliable, cheap...Pick only two, you arnt an exception. Cheers Tyler.
Ohh, and unless you havn't figured it out yet, Stop driving with coolant leaks and Stop dropping nails in your fucking trannys!!!
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Ohh, and unless you havn't figured it out yet, Stop driving with coolant leaks and Stop dropping nails in your fucking trannys!!!
i agree!
im gonna get some sort of fuel management this time also
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4343.jpg)
looks good g. sry bout the sr hope u get her running asap.
edit: cali trip after dood!
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getting the head leak tested/milled and inspected tomorrow from a friends machine shop for 100 bux
gonna tear down the block and send that there next
arp eadstuds
cosworth headgasket
valve seals
piston rings and main bearing
hmm what elsE?
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getting the head leak tested/milled and inspected tomorrow from a friends machine shop for 100 bux
gonna tear down the block and send that there next
arp eadstuds
cosworth headgasket
valve seals
piston rings and main bearing
hmm what elsE?
rod bearings are a definite
Rear and front main seal is a definite
Get a rocker stopper
I'll think of more eventually too
mmmmmmmmm. Cosworth.....
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rear and front seal are brand new lol. might change them again.
ive got greddy RAS.. look at the pic of my torn down head, there on the sides
thinking about cams also. but idk. i want cams.
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It's apart, and cheap, so why not eh?
Shit, didn't notice those, your covered!
Cams can always be added later. They're easy. I dunno how much they cost, but from what I understand worth it. But cannot attest to it myself. Maybe Matt will chime in on that
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haha cant get a break? how u think this guy gets so much sweet stuff for dirt cheap and tons of seat time for dirt cheap. hes probably bangin tons of teenage bitches too haha. you got this shit handled David. btw an alum head can be flattened at certain shops. but most shops just wanna mill the head.. which is actually wrong..
warped alum head torqued down to think iron block (analog for engine block) and cooked in a furnace. dont remem temp or time but u might be able to google it. about 500 degrees though
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haha cant get a break? how u think this guy gets so much sweet stuff for dirt cheap and tons of seat time for dirt cheap. hes probably bangin tons of teenage bitches too haha. you got this shit handled David.
he damn well better
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he damn well better
This.
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haha cant get a break? how u think this guy gets so much sweet stuff for dirt cheap and tons of seat time for dirt cheap. hes probably bangin tons of teenage bitches too haha. you got this shit handled David. btw an alum head can be flattened at certain shops. but most shops just wanna mill the head.. which is actually wrong..
warped alum head torqued down to think iron block (analog for engine block) and cooked in a furnace. dont remem temp or time but u might be able to google it. about 500 degrees though
another thing me and him have in common lol
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got a pic of one of my 10 runs from the weekend with a blown hg. lol
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs273.snc4/40004_422762479555_826709555_4498219_3987816_n.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0804002107.jpg)
and i dropped the head off today
got my shift knob powdercoated
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs211.snc4/38888_420107197116_500057116_5350697_2605024_n.jpg)
NOTICE THE T NEXT TO MY NUMBER!!
a big milestone.
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WHY do u have to be so legit dude?
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legit? this sucks. im in a hole lol. i need to get this shit sideways with other cars door to door!
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Lovin the knob make sure you recommend all of you WITTDJR to be the best Zoner and dont forget the C.O.C Lucas Fuel Treatment alright lol hahahaha
Cant wait to see you back in action......so how did the Hydro E-Brake work out man???
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legit, meaning not giving up dude ur a trooper youll be sideways dude real soon i hope so! u still need those calipers?
whats the t for tandem??.
i so want to start sliding (not the notch though) after asb x and the ridealong with eric kinda opened my eyes that shit is fun dude
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Lovin the knob make sure you recommend all of you WITTDJR to be the best Zoner and dont forget the C.O.C Lucas Fuel Treatment alright lol hahahaha
Cant wait to see you back in action......so how did the Hydro E-Brake work out man???
the e brake was interesting, it worked great. but i didnt use it much. im not use to it.
i was just getting my runs done as fast as possinle without spinning out so i could dump water back into the radiator as it spewed out of the exuast
what it takes to do the job right!
whats the t for tandem??.
yes, though i didnt because i only had a few runs, i passed tech for tandem
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(http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/drift-nirvana-7-31-10/normal_drift_nirvana_0047.jpg)
(http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/drift-nirvana-7-31-10/normal_drift_nirvana_0048.jpg)
(http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/drift-nirvana-7-31-10/normal_drift_nirvana_0049.jpg)
(http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/drift-nirvana-7-31-10/normal_drift_nirvana_0103.jpg)
(http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/drift-nirvana-7-31-10/normal_drift_nirvana_0104.jpg)
(http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/drift-nirvana-7-31-10/drift_nirvana_0108.jpg)
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headgasket tow hook ornament...thats a new one on me!
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headgasket tow hook ornament...thats a new one on me!
lol i dig it haha, my sr head gasket is just a garage ornament for now
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lol yea, it was to symbolize that i was having headgasket issues that day
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lol yea, it was to symbolize that i was having headgasket issues that day
I love it x1000... Sounds like something I would do, but havent, so now it's basically something that would be copying you if I did it. DAMNIT
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Ye Gods! you guys are alowed to run some serious pigs!
We arent allowed on the track without a bonnet, let alone with catch cans/water tanks just losely cable tied on top.
I like it
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Ye Gods! you guys are alowed to run some serious pigs!
We arent allowed on the track without a bonnet, let alone with catch cans/water tanks just losely cable tied on top.
I like it
well the water overflow wasnt dumping water in my radiator. so i mounted it higher lol.
it runs cooler with the bonnet/bumper off
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0806000301.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/0806000302.jpg)
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haha I like that last drifting pic
your eyes are closed......need a caption in there with something to that nature
"so l33t I can drift with my eyes closed"
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my head is trashed. gotta find a new one
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haha I like that last drifting pic
your eyes are closed......need a caption in there with something to that nature
"so l33t I can drift with my eyes closed"
He's actually blind, you didn't know?
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my head is trashed. gotta find a new one
That really sucks. Hope you can find one soon for a decent price.
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got some head for 80 bux. its at the machine shop now
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs287.snc4/40701_1211824426749_1562910820_30993765_5856434_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs280.snc4/40354_424962654555_826709555_4551759_4546108_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs069.ash2/36813_424956289555_826709555_4551706_3416803_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs226.snc4/38649_422415604555_826709555_4489864_4822364_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs210.snc4/38861_422127404555_826709555_4484382_3558591_n.jpg)
GETTIN VALVE COVER POWDER COATED FLASHY GREEN
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Lol at the microwave.
Are you ever going to use that glassless hatch? You should just make some louvers for it.
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Lol at the microwave.
Are you ever going to use that glassless hatch? You should just make some louvers for it.
i most deffinetly am. probally gonna figure out how to put lexan in it. but atm ive got much more going on then to worry about that haha. i plan to paint the car down the road
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got some head for 80 bux.
youre getting ripped off man....I dont spend more than $5
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did you bring the microwave to the drift event to have yourself some frozen burritos?
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did you bring the microwave to the drift event to have yourself some frozen burritos?
it's to put metal in for amusement when the boring s13's are drifting
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/\ roflmao!!!!
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did you bring the microwave to the drift event to have yourself some frozen burritos?
PIZZA ROLLZ
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ballachill is a word i just invented to describe u
thinkin i should move out there and enjoy some BS free drift scene
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east coast is far from bs free... its mostly older guys saying they arent having fun anymore. Then blaming new guys for it.
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tacos!
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so, coreys head is GREAT.
got it machined pressure tested etc. kinda has some water corrosion but thats okay
gonna get valve seals and swap everything from the cracked head to this one
block is torn down. bearings looked great minus cylinder 2? i think had a bad spot. so new bearings are next
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0811001201.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0811001201a.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/0811001202.jpg)
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bearings looked great minus cylinder 2? i think had a bad spot. so new bearings are nex
Bearings can't really have bad "spots"... Post photos of this, I'm curious
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got a free block today
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0813001722.jpg)
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Hey what all was required to use s13 calipers? Do they just bolt right on? I know you had to invert the sides but is that all?
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buying a 240sx this week! no motor. pix soon. its 200 bux
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0824001705.jpg)
Hey what all was required to use s13 calipers? Do they just bolt right on? I know you had to invert the sides but is that all?
for solid axle
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shit i forgot you were solid rear... So are you swapping everything to the 240 or you ganna have a 2nd build?
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is the 240 going to eventually be a DD or what you doing with it?
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nah the 240 is gonna be a dd
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By DD you mean daily drifter right?
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nah the 240 is gonna be a dd
better be superlow, SR'd w/ baller ass wheels, DD
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0818000135.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0826000025.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0826000316.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_0826000317.jpg)
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is this a ebay powder gun? always wanted one
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no not a ebay gun
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Ok then give us specs on the gun, and what you're using to cook parts in.
Always liked purple powdercoat
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DD is for Drift Demon right?
Nice to see some fresh updates about your car!
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Ok then give us specs on the gun, and what you're using to cook parts in.
Always liked purple powdercoat
the oven is some like 5x5x7
ill get the specs on the gun
ANNNDD KA POWAR
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/0827000327.jpg)
will be going into my new s13 this weekend. after i get the cash to dolly it home
90k on this ka. lots of driving to do
!!!
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(http://i35.tinypic.com/2dc91k1.jpg)
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MARU!!!!!
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hey david...i need a mailing address from you to ship your decal...for the top s12 contest.
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs292.snc4/40916_430723484555_826709555_4683361_1346082_n.jpg)
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs432.snc4/47507_435172259555_826709555_4773574_3168893_n.jpg)
wow. i miss drifting
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pooop. what happened
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i wishi could just finish my car... i sat in it today and let it idle... i almost cried. No lie.
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my s13 has a fucked up ka, i changed the hg and its still fucked up
so thats out of driving
the s12 is a money pit and its on the bottom list of prioritys. sr is otu and being rebuilt slowly
the ford ranger has what i think trans fluid in the radiator. for how long?! who knows. gonna waste 180 on a radiator tomorrow and pray the trans isnt fuccked
my moms ford 2004 sportrack explorer has a locked motor because she drove it out of coolant
so ive got 4 non running vehicles in my driveway
my fucking moped wont start either
then im broke. for like a week
im driving a 97 cadillac catera thats my girlfriends. and it leaks coolant mysteriously. so im awaiting for some more bs
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I could maybe buy the scooter back. I feel bad for trading it to you, not realizing it was a POS.
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my s13 has a fucked up ka, i changed the hg and its still fucked up
So whats wrong with it then? I thought you got it running.
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I could maybe buy the scooter back. I feel bad for trading it to you, not realizing it was a POS.
haha dont worry about it lee
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sounds like my driveway
we have
95 jeep that burns oil and isnt road legal
01 saturn that something is fudged in it
85 ka s12 doesnt move
87 ca s12 barely moves
95 civic brakes prevents it from moving
87 PennDot dump truck with no brake and isnt street legal
88 GMC pickup with a popped 350
80 ford pickup
81 rabbit diesel, just got rid of it
81 Monte Carlo, got rid of it few months ago
89 Chevy pickup with no bed so streetable yet
04 Impala not ganna be here much longer
05 jeep liberty, runs great, but is never here.
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wow. i miss drifting
I hear this a lot from SR owners....
my s13 has a fucked up ka, i changed the hg and its still fucked up
so thats out of driving
the s12 is a money pit and its on the bottom list of prioritys. sr is otu and being rebuilt slowly
the ford ranger has what i think trans fluid in the radiator. for how long?! who knows. gonna waste 180 on a radiator tomorrow and pray the trans isnt fuccked
my moms ford 2004 sportrack explorer has a locked motor because she drove it out of coolant
so ive got 4 non running vehicles in my driveway
my fucking moped wont start either
then im broke. for like a week
im driving a 97 cadillac catera thats my girlfriends. and it leaks coolant mysteriously. so im awaiting for some more bs
Walk.
I wouldn't be caught dead in a rebadged "Luxury" Opel Omega.. I'd ride a bike, or the bus
When it rains it pours...
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I mustve missed something but what happened to the sohc that was in the 240? thought it was good?
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the sohc is fine... this is the dohc i was talking about last week
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geeze, did you do something to piss the car gods off?
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geeze, did you do something to piss the car gods off?
Same thing we all did to piss them off; we bought s12's.
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4364.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4365.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4366.jpg)
Post Merge: [time]11:25:23 PM / 26-Oct-10 [/time]
and i just realized this thread has over 44,000 views
WOW
ive got similar thread on vadriven forums with 42,000 views too thats half as old
Post Merge: 06:37:55 PM / 26-Oct-10
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4368.jpg)
new paint for the bay
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Thats cute <3
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paid almost nothing for it
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4369.jpg)
good to have this time around, gotta figure out how to even use it
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OMG an SAFC2... PLEASE tell me you aren't actually going to use it?
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why not, the motor is stock, im not relying on it. i just dont want to end up in a minor leaning out issue like last time
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SAFC = engine death sentence.
If you want to avoid a lean condition, clean your MAFS, clean the injectors, and run a little richer of a tune. Oh, and get a GOOD wideband and a nice visible gauge.
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ive got a aem wideband, and how do i run a richer tune? just like that
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Adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a real easy way, but really the SR stock tune runs really rich as it is IMO.
ROM tuning is another easy DIY way too.
But please, PLEASE stay away from that SAFC, it accounts for damn near 70% of SR failures out there... Because people are dumb shits and think it's a magic power making device and allows them to jack their boost up to 1.5bar with out bigger injectors.
Most people just don't realize how an SAFC works, it does more to your ECU than just change fueling.
(I hate them with a passion BTW, as if you didn't notice already)
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nismo200sx16 is runnin one on his SR setup...you should talk to him about using it if he doesnt chime in on here
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Adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a real easy way, but really the SR stock tune runs really rich as it is IMO.
ROM tuning is another easy DIY way too.
But please, PLEASE stay away from that SAFC, it accounts for damn near 70% of SR failures out there... Because people are dumb shits and think it's a magic power making device and allows them to jack their boost up to 1.5bar with out bigger injectors.
Most people just don't realize how an SAFC works, it does more to your ECU than just change fueling.
(I hate them with a passion BTW, as if you didn't notice already)
im not running 1.5 bar though, or trying too
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Was just an example.
If the engine is 100% stock (boost and all), then you should never need one of those.
"The only thing the AFC can fine tune is how much more detonation you want."
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uhhh, i want less? lawlz!
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my friend uses safc but just to monitor shit, he doesn't actually tune with it at all. So maybe you could just do that or something >.>
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ill give you $20 for it david
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4371.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4370.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4372.jpg)
Post Merge: 07:59:28 PM / 01-Nov-10
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4374.jpg)
need a tq wrench! that i trust
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Just don't get a click torque wrench, they = bad for engine assembly.
Scale type ones are the way to go, and don't forget to pick up an angle indicator!
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ive got a click type, and scale type. but they are both old as fuckk
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old as fuck doesn't apply, as long as they aren't broken or abused.
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old as fuck doesn't apply, as long as they aren't broken or abused.
For a racheting torque wrench it does, those springs get weak over time and need to be recalibrated. As for the scale those rarley go out of tune.
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Just don't get a click torque wrench, they = bad for engine assembly.
Scale type ones are the way to go, and don't forget to pick up an angle indicator!
This I need, still got a snap on click type, I will probably use it for the first 2 torqueing steps
old as fuck doesn't apply, as long as they aren't broken or abused.
^ damn hotdoghogie, you beat me to it
They still need to be re-calibrated every so often
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Not THAT often... Depends on use and abuse.
If you're a dick and don't turn it back to zero when you done with it, then yeah, it'll probably need to be calibrated.
But that shouldn't matter anyway, because you shouldn't be using a click torque wench when building engines anyway! :P
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But that shouldn't matter anyway, because you shouldn't be using a click torque wench when building engines anyway! :P
Why not? And im not trying to be a smart-ass, i really dont understand why not. As long as its calibrated properly i dont see why it would be any less effective than a dial type.
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Can you be absolutely sure that it's set to the right torque?
Most I've used are just a dial it "close enough" deal (digital doesn't count), a scale type you SEE the torque you're at while you apply it.
I like seeing what's going on while I do it.
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well, i decided to order arp main studs
and i checked the piston ring gap, there within spec. no need to file fit.
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+1 on the dial torque wrench, and they are so much cheaper, like 1/4 the price of a good ratcheting type althought they don't look as cool....
Good choice on ARP, I would use them on the rods too, don't reuse you stock rod bolts, they will probably stretch to cause the famous sr20 rod knock and most importantly, you don't want those to fail spinning at 7000 rpm.... will make a big chunk of worthless alluminium... or a hell of an expensive paper weight and you already have the ca20 and ka24 for that use ;)
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Not to be a buzz kill, but ARP mains will distort the main journals differently than OEM bolts.
Most people that plan on using studs have the main journals line bored, otherwise you're taking risk of spinning a main bearing.
Rod bolts and head studs are ok to use in replacement though (since OEM rod hardware is already a stud, and the head surfaces should be milled flat).
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i apreciate the concern but im pretty sure ill be fine just popping the arp main studs in
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arp mains in/pistons. crank spins with no binding and such, wehoo!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_1116000211.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/downsized_1116001611.jpg)
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No binding, but what kind of oil clearance do you have? If it's too tight anywhere on the bearing, you'll risk spinning it.
Just IMO, it's your engine.
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^^^What is said...
Plastigauge it just to be sure... better be safe than sorry... you should check every bearing surface while the engine is out of the car... make sure you rebuilt it right the first time... nothing sucks more than skipping a few step to get it on the road faster/cheaper and having to go through it all in a couple of miles.... just my 2 cents
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<33333 new temporary heart! hope fills me! i miss drifting
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/Mobile%20Uploads/1121001903.jpg)
100 DRIFTERS OF DECEMBER HERE I COME!!
Post Merge: 07:08:38 PM / 21-Nov-10
4o min in
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4387.jpg)
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ka, the good old fall back!
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4390.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4395.jpg)
check out this 240!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4394.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4393.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4392.jpg)
i hereby name this s13, grand canyon!
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^^^ That 240 likes the the ones where im at but i say that a little bit better shape :laugh: no joke tho
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UHHHH
overkill! bye bye transmission! this is gonna be epic
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4397.jpg)
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Overkill? True
Worth it? True
Fun? True
Win? True
:thumbsup:
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and ive spent zilch so far.
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and ive spent zilch so far.
I hate you.
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WTF is that torque converter doing in the background? just chillin?
Twin disk clutch FTW
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I wish I could get perfectly good ka24de's for free over here.
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Fucking david king of free shit.
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WTF is that torque converter doing in the background? just chillin?
Twin disk clutch FTW
ka is obviously auto. just took the tq conv off
Post Merge: [time]02:57:15 AM / 25-Nov-10 [/time]
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4398.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4402.jpg)
head is back wippieeey
Post Merge: 03:02:21 PM / 25-Nov-10
pilot bearing install
to remove the pilot bushing i use a ton of grease, and a socket with a welded end on it, to force the auto bushing back out.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4403.jpg)
9/16ths socket for auto bushings
just, smack that fucker in there with a hammer real hard (make sure you pack with lots of grease)
sometimes, i add some eletrical tape to the socket for a better seal
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4404.jpg)
dont forget your MANUAL TRANS BOLTS
they have longer threads and specify MT on them
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4405.jpg)
auto bushing on right, manual on left
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4406.jpg)
tap the new one in
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4407.jpg)
pray you installed your twin disk correctly
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4408.jpg)
and, free junk of the day!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4409.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4410.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4411.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4412-1.jpg)
total spent on build
$2.09 on a pilot bushing
im getting trans fluid and coolant dropped off from a friend at toyota, motor should go in tonight
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damn looks like i'm not gonna be the only ka s12 at drift nirvana. lol
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so it's .. the 4th engine in that car if I haven't forgotten any!
You should start your own swap shop lol :P
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yeap thats engine number 4
Post Merge: 11:38:15 PM / 25-Nov-10
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1139.snc4/148133_10150338705615179_886200178_16005225_3893320_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs595.ash2/154754_10150338705730179_886200178_16005230_2235304_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs970.snc4/76336_10150338706035179_886200178_16005239_3144531_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs586.ash2/150815_10150338706260179_886200178_16005243_7763672_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs488.ash2/76138_10150338706785179_886200178_16005255_1634170_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs601.ash2/155360_10150338706940179_886200178_16005258_5603222_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs475.ash2/74824_10150338707045179_886200178_16005261_1817431_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs594.ash2/154606_10150338707480179_886200178_16005271_1390583_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs990.snc4/76323_10150338707740179_886200178_16005277_2907454_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs965.snc4/75835_10150338708150179_886200178_16005297_740080_n.jpg)
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and, free junk of the day!
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4409.jpg)
I just love how you carry your engine blocks around...
Did a rod inside that block wanted to get into shape??? That would explain why it decided to leave for a walk...
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yea dude, i pick up around 4-5 motors a month
swaps at my house or a friends every week
where does all this shit come from!
i scrap alot of it/sell it
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so, if your s12 needs a ka swap...better hook that ish up to a truck and haul it to va because david has all of the kas in the east coast go through his garage.
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well most of the running ka's go quick or are sold fast
alot of the times the motors are just blown or something wrong like headgasket
Post Merge: 09:30:21 PM / 26-Nov-10
ka fired up on 4 cylinders. wont idle though, something with the wiring, ill get it
heres a new trans mount, this time its solid
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4413.jpg)
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Nice idea for the mount... I'll have to try that one...
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i just mounted the driveshaft/ trans mounts.. the welded them together with some plate lol. tacked em on the car, pulled off to finish the beads
its like my 4th trans mount. the rubber shit falls apart
just remember to oval out the holes... hard to get a solid mount perfect
Post Merge: 08:53:50 AM / 29-Nov-10
took it out on the highway.. fuck yea i think im gonna be able to make the event
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4425.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4424.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4426.jpg)
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its like my 4th trans mount. the rubber shit falls apart
What do you mean? Pictarrs? (duh, found them)
The rubber on my mount is basically trash, wanting to try window weld on it. The bad thing is that means the car has to park for a couple days grr.
What did you put in between the two parts of the mount (where rubber used to be) a metal piece of some kind?
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What do you mean? Pictarrs? (duh, found them)
The rubber on my mount is basically trash, wanting to try window weld on it. The bad thing is that means the car has to park for a couple days grr.
What did you put in between the two parts of the mount (where rubber used to be) a metal piece of some kind?
theres nothing in between, i welded plate steel.. around the gaps to take up w/e space was there
i mounted it all up, with the gap in between, and bridged the two with steel
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(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4427.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/129_4428.jpg)
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Does using grease/wet paper + hammer + socket to remove an auto bushing damage your thrust bearing?
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Does using grease/wet paper + hammer + socket to remove an auto bushing damage your thrust bearing?
Only if you do it wrong. by wrong meaning not having a good seal and end up bottoming the socket out before the bushing comes out.
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Does using grease/wet paper + hammer + socket to remove an auto bushing damage your thrust bearing?
you mean, crank thrust washers?
no not at all, and you deffinetly shouldnt bottom the socket out much
has to be packed with grease
you need to hit it hard enough, so that it feels like your hitting pure metal though, if your wacks feel kinda cushioned then your either A shoving grease out around the socket (where eletrical tape helps), or b not hitting hard enough
ive done it, around 8 or so times... never had a issue with any motors..
did wonder if AUTO cranks and balanced for tq converters though, and if clutches threw the balance off
also, the crank on MT trans's has a PIN, for the flywheel, auto does not..
but i make sure i line up the hole where the pin was before i bolt it down
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You swap too fast, it makes me jealous. I'm interested to hear your opinion on going from SR to na KA after the event.
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considering ka cranks are unbalanced to begin with...i kind of doubt it matters what transmission is behind them.
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considering ka cranks are unbalanced to begin with...i kind of doubt it matters what transmission is behind them.
All KA cranks are externally balanced.
They're just not fully counterweighted.