Club-S12 International S12OC United Kingdom ClubS12 France S12Silvia Australia S12.org.ua Eastern Europe S12 of Sweden S12 Japan BBS
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 ... 10
1
Build Projects / Re: My S12 Nostalgia Project, 12 Years in the Making
« Last post by mikey on Yesterday at 01:31:41 PM »


This thing showed up today.  The most expensive single piece of the project thus far.  For those who aren't familiar with Link, they make "plug-in" style ECUs that are just a replacement board for their supported engines.  The 3SGE BEAMS is one of those.











I did have to drill two holes in the ECU case so that the USB cable and the vacuum hose for the integrated MAP sensor could pass through.



And it all goes back together like stock.  Super stoked about this.



Even though this is plug-and-play, because I lost the factory intake manifold, there are some things that have to be modified about the harness.  In particular, I have to wire in a wideband, add an IAT sensor (which was included with the Link from PanicWire), and move the TPS sensor connector from the front of the engine to the rear.  Nothing all that difficult, but I want it to look nice.
2
Welcome Area / original boost gauge not working
« Last post by Mick Evgeniou on 12:10:06 AM / 02-Apr-20  »
Hey All,

I need a hand. I've got a manual 1985 Silvia S12 CA18ET.... My boost gauge on the dash is not registering anything, the needle continuously on -7......in the 6000 posts I've read, all point to fitting an aftermarket boost gauge, something I can't do as I want to keep this car completely original.

Does anyone know the steps I should take in order to try to check out where the fault lies? I've checked and replaced any damaged vacuum hoses but still nothing. Does the boost sensor fail? Is there something wrong with the actual boost gauge in the cluster? Should I just leave it alone coz it's not worth it?

Any help would be much appreciated
3
Build Projects / Re: My S12 Nostalgia Project, 12 Years in the Making
« Last post by mikey on 01:54:58 PM / 31-Mar-20  »
Update time! 





The 20v Blacktop ITB adapter from Xcessive Mfg, while expensive, does have some cool features.  The adapter has an NPT vacuum port for each of the 4 runners, allowing you to sync the throttle linkage adjustments, while also using the vacuum from all 4 cylinders to feed a vacuum block, which can be used for things such as the brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, and the integrated MAP sensor in my stand-alone ECU.



I picked up this very inexpensive vac block off eBay and made a quick bracket out of some .125" aluminum sheet from work.  It utilizes some threaded holes in the factory lower plenum, which keeps it tucked nicely out of the way while still be relatively accessible.  Also, you can see the larger hose existing the left side of the vac block, which feeds the brake booster.



The silicone hose to brake booster, still using the factory Nissan check valve.  It's ugly, but it works.  I'll probably update this later with something a bit more aesthetically pleasing.  Potentially more AN stuff.



I picked up a cheap (yet surprisingly nice) catch can to route the factory PCV system. 



I was able to cut up the factory rubber hoses, use a couple brass PEX barbed fittings, and add silicone hose to connect the whole system.  I'm relatively happy with how it turned out.  Once the trumpets are on the throttle bodies, it should be less intrusive looking.  I hope.



Radiator #3 turned out to be the winner!  This is an oversize full aluminum unit made for a NA Mazda Miata.  It's nice and short, which was the problem I had been battling with my previous two radiator attempts.  The nice thing is that it shares a 1.25" inlet and outlet with the BEAMS engine, which eliminated the need for reducers in the coolant system.





By utilizing the factory upper radiator mounting points, I made some quick little brackets, which I suck and didn't get pictures of once welded and painted, but I will!





I was able to use the crossmember I put in between the tension rod brackets (initially to mount a skid plate) to attach a lower radiator mount.  It ended up being places perfectly for this, and its solid as a rock now.



I scored a Honda Accord coolant overflow from the junkyard a month or so ago, and took the sheet metal bracket with me to build my own for the S12









I had to get a little creative with the rad plumbing, though it wasn't too bad.  I still have to flare the pipe ends.  I just haven't gotten to it yet.







Then came the part I was dreading, which I took virtually no pictures of.  Mainly because of how filthy I was during this whole process. 





The downpipe proved to be relatively difficult, as one of the pipes would have to make a weird turn to make it around the steering shaft.







That's the completed midpipe before paint.  No pictures of the tailpipe section or the finished downpipe.  All three sections are now coated in a black high-temp header paint.  I'll grab some pictures before reinstalling.



And then it was time to pull the engine again.  I wanted everything completely mocked up before doing so.  The engine had no flywheel/clutch in it, and was missing a bunch of components.  It has basically been used just for mock-up over the last month or so.  I installed a new rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, starter, wiring harness, etc.  However, I did run into one hiccup.  The clutch kit that I purchased ended up coming with the incorrect throw out bearing, or "clutch release bearing" as Toyota calls it.  Battle Garage lists them, however they are currently out of stock, waiting for an incoming shipment.  This is a real kick in the balls, because I just KNOW this is going to be that damn part that holds me up for another month.  I put the whole driveline back together with the old worn throw out bearing.  Worst case, I can get it running and tuned with the old one, as it hasn't completely failed, it's just seen better days.



And two last pics before I started pulling the engine.  I put the car on the ground to move some things around.  I set the car down on ramps so that I could get my jack out from underneath, and put the car into gear before doing so, so it wouldn't go anywhere.  Well stupid me forgot that being in gear doesn't mean shit if there isn't a clutch or flywheel involved.  So the car ran out of the garage and down the driveway and scared the shit out of me.  Thankfully, no one was parked behind it.  But it gave me an opportunity to take a couple decent pics out in the sunlight.  It's starting to look like a functioning engine bay!





The 'Rona has given me some extra time at home, so I hope to have this thing up and running in a couple weeks, assuming I can get my hands on a wideband... 



4
Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...
« Last post by Wonderingraven on 01:08:39 AM / 28-Mar-20  »
quick update, motor is ready to drop in. I'll add pictures to this check back later.

I can use either SEv6 sohc exhaust headers (have to modify the holes for the studs just a little wider and oval out the insides) but they can fit right in with no other issues.
The J30 exhaust looks like it will fit, I would have to modify the Y pipe to  compensate the extra length from the headers and match how they bolt up.

JWT is shipping out everything monday that I need to fit in the transmission (minus the shifter, as I need someone to cut and make the bracket shorter)

Last but not least, I need to get my driveshaft made when this is ready.

Then I can move onto wiring.
5
Club-S12 Gallery / SE V6 Spring Cleaning
« Last post by cls12vg30 on 06:07:54 PM / 20-Mar-20  »
Desperate to get the hell out of the house, I decided to clean up the S12.  The paint is done for now, the hood did not come out how I wanted, it looks matte because I couldn't get the clearcoat to go on smooth enough.  I'm sure I'll give it another shot at some point, but for now I'm freakin' DONE fighting with it.  It beats the hell out of the sunburned mess it was before.





6
Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...
« Last post by Wonderingraven on 11:38:42 AM / 20-Mar-20  »
I am assuming there isn't a huge write up on this. wiring is similar to wiring the rb25 almost to a T and when I clean up my notes I'll post the wiring guide and with that said I am going to do an in-depth write up on this process including the whole VG30DE Auto bellhousing on an Z33 CD09 transmission and how it fits in.

As of now I got no job for 30 days sooo here we go nose diving into this project.

The before


Pulling the engine.



the engine tare down.

7
Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...
« Last post by iceageg on 07:37:27 AM / 20-Mar-20  »
Making good use of your mandatory stay home time.  Good on you.
8
Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...
« Last post by Wonderingraven on 05:29:54 PM / 19-Mar-20  »
it is done, motor is finally out and the preparations is now underway.
9
some update with a mostly fixed issue:

on a whim, I kept all the old vac lines i took off in the past.
spliced the flow restrictors from the two manifold vacuum lines into my new lines. Re-adjusted idle again and re-timed for the new idle speed.

As it turns out, at least on this car, If you dont have those flow restrictions in feed lines for the TVV, when you set the based time to 4* BTDC, when you hook the vacuum line back to the dizzy your idle time is around 22*btdc, Any slight blip of the throttle makes the timing marks totally vanish from sight like it just maxes out the vacuum advance instantly. Though it never sounded like it, i suppose it was misfiring or pinging like hell when was getting no throttle response.

with those back in the loop, after you set the base time to 4*btdc and hook it back up to the dizzy you are sitting around 14-15 BTDC. I still have a small miss or stumble here or there but nothing like it was.

Gonna just do the standard coil/rotor/wires/plugs and a Italian tune up and see where it falls after the weekend.

need to get this turd ready for radwood
10
I had similar issues with bogging at high rpm with my turbo.  One time was a cut with my primary coil wire to cap, wires were three months old at that time, on the second time it was reversed primary plug wires between cylinder 1 and 2 after I put new plugs in.  Like you said the secondary coil should stop work when the engine go pass 4000 rpm under heavy load so in both cases there was a problem with my primary ignition side when my secondary side stops working.  One member I helped out a long time ago with bogging turned out to be his newer fuel pressure regulator he just installed.  I'm not sure how the NA pressure regulator works but for the turbo under boost (no vacuum) the regulator will open to let more fuel in but the guy put a regulator from a CA18det and that one works in reverse.  The newer regulators are place in the outlet side of the fuel rail controlling the flow going out whereas our older cars have the regulator in the inlet side of the rail controlling the flow going in.

Post Merge
PS: see kelso840's reply and double check all the ignition wiring.
Pages: [1] 2 ... 10