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Electrical & Chassis Tech / Re: Passenger Window Won't Go Up
« Last post by rednucleus on 03:48:39 PM / 23-May-20  »
Took driver's side switch apart and used fine emery paper on all contacts and DeOxit spray. Both windows work again. Also see a 93 Pathfinder switch will work and can still buy new ($75+), just need to remove some rear door buttons to fit the S12 trim. I'll bet you could also remove the top of the S12 switch and snap it on the guts of the Pathfinder switch to keep buttons stock.
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Electrical & Chassis Tech / Re: Passenger Window Won't Go Up
« Last post by rednucleus on 04:46:50 PM / 21-May-20  »
Yes, it has the window lock switch; I cycled that several times, no change. Yes, both driver & passenger switches activate down.
Thanks for the replies - something to play with on a 3 day weekend!
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Electrical & Chassis Tech / Re: Passenger Window Won't Go Up
« Last post by kelso840 on 03:37:53 PM / 21-May-20  »
Does your car have a window lock button? I forget how those work, but it's the only thing I can think of that would partially immobilize a window.

It's super weird that it doesn't respond to either "up" switch but still goes down. Do both "down" switches work?
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Electrical & Chassis Tech / Re: Passenger Window Won't Go Up
« Last post by BOSSMAN on 02:09:17 PM / 21-May-20  »
If the window will go down then it's the switch.  I'll pull the switch out, take it apart and clean the contacts/metal taps.  I fixed a 96 Camry with the same problem.  On the Camry the passenger switch is the master meaning if that switch fails then the driver side will not work either. 
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Electrical & Chassis Tech / Passenger Window Won't Go Up
« Last post by rednucleus on 10:35:02 AM / 21-May-20  »
Good Morning
I am lucky enough to park my 85 hatch in a garage overnight and leave my windows 1/2 way open to breath. This morning, the passenger window would not go back up with either driver or passenger switch. Goes down the rest of the way fine. For the past couple years the driver side window switch has been intermittent but still working. Your trouble-shooting advise appreciated so I don't needlessly tear everything apart!
Red
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ENGINE (OEM): CA20E Tech / Re: Need a Thermal Vacuum Valve ( T V V )
« Last post by weitrhino on 04:35:07 PM / 20-May-20  »
Had a guy hook me up with a used one from a pulled CA20. I'll tell ya though, Nissan made it a big pain in the ass to remove and replace one. First, the fuel rail sticks out just far enough so you cannot freely spin one out of its port. Second, the Throttle Position Sensor is also in the way. The small phillips screws holding the TPS in place are a pain because the one on the bottom is almost impossible to access without completely removing the fuel rail and the #1 injector. I think it took me almost 2.5 hours for this silly thing.
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General Tech / Re: Body info needed. Body shop has no info on "Older cars".
« Last post by iceageg on 09:57:05 AM / 13-May-20  »
I'm not sure this is an actual question as much as it is a spam post for a job site, but I'll answer the necro thread anyway.  If you have the basic tools, some knowledge and the willingness to do your own maintenance, owning older cars is a vastly superior way to live by every measurable metric.  If you can't do your own work and/or have disposable income new cars with warranties are very convenient.
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General Tech / Re: Body info needed. Body shop has no info on "Older cars".
« Last post by alex james on 08:44:57 AM / 13-May-20  »
How worth it is to spending 60% of amount  on older cars if we compare with new cars ???if preowned cars exceeds more than 4 years..
9
ENGINE (OEM): CA20E Tech / Re: Need a Thermal Vacuum Valve ( T V V )
« Last post by SC S12 on 10:19:55 PM / 12-May-20  »
I just purchased one from my local dealer ( but the price is high like 43) for the 3 port tvv. This was right before the covid lockdowns in the city. They had 13 in stock at some dealership in upper South Carolina or lower North Carolina.

For some reason no one after market makes the 3 port?
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Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...
« Last post by Wonderingraven on 09:05:43 AM / 08-May-20  »

Curious what modifications you had to do to your VG30 headers to get them on the VG33.  I just had to slightly oval two of the holes to make room for the thicker studs.  Keep up the work man.  Love what you do.


thats all I did, I have to widen them more, but for the vg30de i would have to match the exhaust holes too.
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