Recent Posts

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Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...

« Last post by Wonderingraven on Yesterday at 11:07:51 AM »

All valves are bent, I am really concerned on the carbon build up on all the exhaust valves tho, they are a thick layer of carbon.
I wonder if that was caused by the carb when it was on for a while.

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Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...

« Last post by CzechSilvia on Yesterday at 09:30:41 AM »

Oh shit! I'm curious, however, what does it look like on the inside, the cam must have seized at high rpm

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Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...

« Last post by iceageg on Yesterday at 07:31:30 AM »

Son of a!!!

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Build Projects / Re: Project: Excalibur Prime - 1987 200sx SEv6...

« Last post by Wonderingraven on 04:24:56 PM / 14-Jul-19  »

Yeah, I am back until you see the last image.






Here is a video of a few clips.
https://youtu.be/tI8P3UFqC9g

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ENGINE (OEM): VG30E Tech / Re: SE will sporadically cut ignition power

« Last post by rednucleus on 08:00:00 PM / 12-Jul-19  »

When my CA did this is was due to failing solder joints on the main computer board. Thought I had a failing fuel pump as the symptom was intermittent loss of pump power. I opened the metal box and carefully pushed on different components and found on one section of board I could consistently replicate the problem. So I removed the circuit board and re-heated all the original solder joints and have not had a problem in a few years now. Here's the link to my thread on the problem.
https://club-s12.org/forum/index.php/topic,38038.msg403344.html#msg403344

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ENGINE (OEM): VG30E Tech / SE will sporadically cut ignition power

« Last post by mikey on 10:27:32 AM / 12-Jul-19  »

I have an '88 SE with the VG30E engine.  The car sat for a while before I purchased it.  It would start and run fine and then shut off without warning.  It would not sputter and die, as if being starved of fuel, it would shut off as if someone literally took the key out of the ignition while driving.  When this happens, it will not restart.  However if you wait 15 minutes or longer it will restart no issue and run fine again.  Sometimes it will shut down within 10 seconds of a cold start, sometimes it will run for 30 minutes without issue before shutting down.  But it will always shut down in the form of an ignition cut.

What I'm asking is, are their known "weak points" regarding the VG engine that I should start with?  I know that if I run down the list A-Z, this is going to get very time consuming and potentially expensive, and I'd rather start with the most common known issues and work down from there.  I am completely new to the VG engine, so a lot of this is foreign to me.  I do have a factory service manual at my disposal which will help, but again with the time consuming part.

Any ideas?!

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Build Projects / Re: My S12 Nostalgia Project, 12 Years in the Making

« Last post by mikey on 09:19:58 AM / 09-Jul-19  »

Love the progress and the race.  My son went this year with a friend but I ended up working that entire weekend.  If you're ever back in CO shoot me a PM.

Thanks and absolutely!!  I'm out that way occasionally for work, as I have an office in Denver.

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Build Projects / Re: My S12 Nostalgia Project, 12 Years in the Making

« Last post by iceageg on 11:22:27 AM / 03-Jul-19  »

Love the progress and the race.  My son went this year with a friend but I ended up working that entire weekend.  If you're ever back in CO shoot me a PM.

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Build Projects / Re: My S12 Nostalgia Project, 12 Years in the Making

« Last post by mikey on 08:42:36 AM / 03-Jul-19  »

Unfortunately, progress has been rather slow.  A few friends and I decided to take a trip out to CO to watch the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb, which was quite the experience.  There's a whole lot they don't tell you about trying to attend these events lol.







The views were incredible.  And we did get to watch Dai grenade his transmission right in front of us at Devil's Playground.



So back to the limited progress:



Decided to get the front extended studs pressed.  For anyone who's wondering, Ichiba S13 5-lug conversion hubs use S14 14.25 knurl lug studs, NOT S13 ones.







I also did one of the rears, but this was way more involved and of course I didn't take pictures.  I used a small 1" hole saw to cut a hole in the brake dust shield from the back side and used that to remove the old studs and insert the new ones.  It really is a pain in the balls to pull the new studs in with nuts, but it's kind of my only option unless I want to take the entire rear hub assemblies apart, which I'd really rather not do.

After some suspension tweaking and doing the extended studs on that last corner, this thing should be a proper roller.  Now I just have to address the engine issues....  I'll get into that next time.

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ENGINE (OEM): CA18ET Tech / Re: Fuel Pressure Regulator

« Last post by deucekazoo on 09:32:29 AM / 02-Jul-19  »

Finally got it fixed. It was the fuel pressure regulator.
I removed the fuel rail and cut the old pressure regulator off. I then connected the two open fuel rail tubes with high pressure fuel line. I put everything back together. I then added the new pressure regulator to the RH shock tower. I used the bracket that came with the regulator, just bend and twisted it to fit my application. The pressure regulator I bought was the Aeromotive 13301. This one is nice because it is universal and set up for both carb and low pressure fuel injected cars. It comes with two springs, the first goes from 3-20 psi and the second spring is from 20-65 psi. I used the second spring. Our cars idle at 30 psi and are full throttle at 37 psi, which is kind of in the middle of the range. One of the harder parts was trying to figure out how to run the pump full on so I can set the pressure. I have a service manual and looked up the wiring for it. Then found out the manual I have is for mid year 1986 cars. Mine is a 02-86 so I also had the PDF of the service manual that is for my car. Both of them are quite different on how the fuel system wiring is. The early cars don't have a relay on the fuel pump, the later cars do but both of them did not have the wire colors I was seeing on my harness. That shit drives me nuts, looking at a schematic where no wire colors match. But finally found the two wires I needed to activate the fuel pump. Set it at 37.5 psi and all is good to go, well after finding I forgot to connect one of the vacuum lines. Its nice having gauges on the car, they help trouble shoot. The car runs great again.