RB25det, June 28th deadline - no sleep until completion. then beer.

[Prolowtone]

What the fuck. I am going to have to c0me out there to try to wrap my head around your project

[Colonel Gustard]

first fwd s12?!?

[I_heart_VVL]

wtf? did this just turn into a volvo build????

[fastest sideways ground speed]

way toward the beginning of this thread you said you were going to need a longer throttle cable. what cable did you end up using?

this thread brings severe amounts of motivation! I'll be following suit very soon. I already have my engine I'm just waiting until I start my new job next month and then I'll be doing some serious work with many questions for you and colin.

[RB25sx - SLPR]

I ended up using an S14 cable that I actually got from Colin, it's longer and does the trick nicely.

More pics tonight hopefully.

-Dan

[RB25sx - SLPR]

Cutting out floor pans.. What a marvelous time!

Firewall, a bit of a cut...







Bare shell:



So many god damn spot welds.. I highly recommend a spot weld cutter, and don't get a cheap one as I have learned.. Eastwood makes a good one.








Fuel cell placement, the dotted lines will be cut out, and replaced with a flat sheet, then an incision made and tank support straps sunken down.



Progress is much slower than I expected, but I would rather take my time and do it correctly this time around... At the end of the build a sizable part of the floor pan will have been cut out and replaced..

-dan

[Draconis]

If I remember correctly, that was the same cable I used for my RB20 when I had it with a front facing intake from Plazmaman (Australian product). I forget what I'm using now but it's either an S12 or S13, both of which are shorter.

Nice to see you working on this again Dan. If things permit, may be making a visit up there next summer. Got heaps planned but I do know I need to visit you since you're not coming down any time soon. :p

[cutter67]

most body supply shops carry the spot weld cutters as you said do not buy cheap ones because they only get 5 or 6 welds and then they are junk would be nice if they made a sharpner for them. i noticed some lines on your strut towers are you planning on work there? we are putting the fuel cell in the same place you are and are going to try to use the fuel door on the car so we dont have to fill on the inside is this your intention also?

[David B]

we need to tandem someday!

[BoostedVG]

So many god damn spot welds.. I highly recommend a spot weld cutter, and don't get a cheap one as I have learned.. Eastwood makes a good one.

I love Eastwood. Its hard not to spend money when I go there. Project is looking good keep it up.

[RB25sx - SLPR]

we need to tandem someday!

There will be tandems inside those tandems, like some kind of infinite tandem loop.

[KevinJDM]

There will be tandems inside those tandems, like some kind of infinite tandem loop.

while(tandem = true)
   System.out.println("TANDEM");
// You're welcome.

[RB25sx - SLPR]

Much cutting, drilling etc..











Need to plan out how I am going to go about building this floor.. It is going to have to be assembled in pieces.. It shall be a very interesting learning experience. I am somewhat upset at all the rust but happy that I will have the opportunity to chop it all out and replace it properly with new steel.

At this point my primary concerns are getting the motor placement correct, and making sure the chassis is square.. I've done my best to make sure it was level and true, but it got bumped around while trying to put the drivetrain back in (very large, and awkward piece an RB25 with trans is)..

-dan

[Prolowtone]

Holly crap, Thats quite a work load! Hope the final result works out as planed.

[cutter67]

i think i would have put a couple of temp cross braces in before i cut that much floor out. i think the hard part will be tying the the two sub frame rails back in to the structure. it seems when you drill out spot welds you drill thru both panels when we drill out spot welds with the cutter we just drill thru the first panel is there a reason for this because i would think you could just use a drill bit if you were going to drill all the way thru

[RB25sx - SLPR]

Reason is: My spot weld cutter sucked, and broke after the first 20 spot welds. I switched to drill bits.. The panels were so rusty it almost didn't even matter..

As for chassis square-ness.. The shell is a piece of crap anyways, at the end of the day as long as the doors close properly and the car drives straight(ish) I will be happy. Drift cars are almost always broken and bent in some way.

Realistic goals!

-dan

[cutter67]

i didnt understand you just building it for a track car (old age i guess) i would plate the inner rocker rails with 1/8" steel plate then build two cross braces to go across the top of trans with square tubing these can be mitered no bending needed and you can tie the sub frames into it and then just add cross bracing if you build a good sub frame then you could just use 16ga sheet metal for the floor

[cutter67]

motor placement....the big thing i look at is angle from front to back and side to side. what we do is find the vehicle that the engine came in and using a magnetic protractor get the degrees of both angles and copy them with the new install. when they design these engines they factor in the angle it will be sitting. i try my best to copy that   

[RB25sx - SLPR]

As far a motor positioning goes, I will be letting the factory 240 crossmember determine the tilt of the motor (Its rotational position when looking at the motor straight on from the front).. This will remain unchanged, RBs tend to list clockwise (towards the exhaust side) by 5 degrees or so. As for the pitch of the motor (relative height of the tail end of the trans).. It will be at a slight downward angle - roughly 2 to 3 degrees.. This is largely due to the requirement for the driveshaft bearings to be flexed to promote greasing. Also, pinion angle needs to be taken into consideration as they need to cancel out any possible harmonics... So if the trans is down 2 degrees, the subframe will be positioned upwards 2 degrees (or more specifically the differential snout).

I've got 20 feet of 1"x2" 1/8" tube that I will be using the brace the floor and create a trans mount similar to the one you describe..  I am also going to extend the frame rails back to the rear subframe pickup points (Or as close to it as I can get).

At the end of the day, if I end up ruining this shell I am ok with that.. It is all a learning experience.

-dan

[David B]

keep us updated!!! any info on cutting s12's up is what i need at the moment!