On A Quest For The 400hp Single Cam

[Arro]

Something I was just thinking of.  If the sputtering at 14-16psi is in fact detonation then wouldn't the ca18et's knock sensor detect that and go to limp mode?  Or at least throw a CEL?  Kinda dumb if all it does is kill fuel and/or spark for a brief moment and not even let us know whats wrong.

BTW guys I fiiinaaaly got a T25G.  Mayb my car will actually run soon and Jason's vette eater won't be the "fastest S12 in Vegas" anymore.  WHA!!!!!  OH SHIT!!

Yeah our stock ECU's are actually pretty dumb, dude... don't expect them to offer anywhere near the sophistication of an S13 ECU from any engine of that time. Your CA18DET will be night and day.

We already know that the fuel is way under par at 10psi, so at 14psi it's ridiculously lean, so really does it matter?

Good going with that T25 you scored, I hope you get your car up and running soon... It'd be fun when I take mine up for inspection if your car was running and Jason's was intercooled

[sideways_s12]

Nah it'll still be the fastest lol dets got nuthing on me hahahaha j/k anyway lets get that shit started already next check I'm ordering the euro cam and then after that I'm gonna be getting some head work done

[sideways_s12]

on with th dsm injectors muahahahahaha

[Arro]

Who's making your custom fuel rail for you? Because I assume you know that DSM are o-ring and CA18ET are hose-style. Incompatible without custom rail.

[Eddy]

ask bart if he is still making his fuel rail..

I have one that he made.

[Arro]

orly, is it the o-ring one or what? take a pic of what you got.

You can ask him, just PM him about getting one for o-ringed injectors. I dunno if he'll still make them.

[sideways_s12]

I got something up my sleeve haha oh and I'm at 15psi on the t25g and it pulls like a raped ape I figured out my sputtering problem turned out I had a leaky injector fixed that and no more sputter woot.
And before you go bashing me I'm doing this on purpose since noone really knows what Kind of boost the stock set-up can run well I can be the first to tell you that it can handle 15psi on the stock set-up been running for a bit now and running it hard and it seems to be doing fine and Arro before you say it "it just feels like it's pulling harder" Ask waylon he was in my car and he can tell you that it pulls. oh and oh well if it blows I have a spare motor waiting so the point is to see how much boost I can get and so far it's 15psi on the t25g with stock set-up

[turbos12]

when i had my et i boosted it 18 psi acouple times lol with the fuel on safc turned all the way up..but it felt just as fast as when i was boosting like 13psi..i had t25 fmic 3inch exhaust msd coils and safc neo..i only did it a hand full of times tho..and my air/fuel ratio was like 12.8 around there

[sideways_s12]

not bad all I have is 3inch exhaust cold air intake and msd coils I want to see how much boost the ca will hold on the stock set-up before rods start to bend and pistons decide to tell me to fuck off

[IggyEGuana]

but it felt just as fast as when i was boosting like 13psi..

T25G is only good for bout 14-15 psi and then its just blowin hot air.  CA18DET T25 good for about 12-13.  So yeah thats why 18 didn't feel any better.

pistons decide to tell me to fuck off

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!


As stated, this car is doin good so far on t25g at its max boost.  No engine pop yet.  Next step is bigger snail and boost it to it's max.  Lookin forward to seeing what bends/breaks and when it does it.

[sideways_s12]

hahaha yup but I will go with bigger injectors when I get a bigger snail because I want to see what the rods can handle before I run out of fuel

[Arro]

Why would you want to grenade an engine just for the hell of it? I mean unless you have a lot of $$$ to just do a quick rebuild, what's the point? lol

[IggyEGuana]

HAHA I will let Jason give you his answer.  I'll just say its definetly not about blowin a motor for the hell of it.

[sideways_s12]

I'm not blowing the motor for the hell of it nobody knows what the 18et's bottom end will hold as far as boost goes so I'm giving you fact on how much it can hold before the rods and pistons tell me to fuck off that way you can have a solid number and future et builders will know what they can work with before they have to go stronger on the bottom end and besides I want to know what it will do as well if I want to hang vettes like the z06 J, we talked about this before through an im why do you sound so surprised. also I have 2 spares waitng and a dd so down time wont be a big thing for me anymore Just trying to help the with factual numbers that can actually work.

So far I got 15psi out of the t25g on the stock set-up minus the obvious mods like intake and exhaust and coils other than that it's stock, stock head and bottomend. I know what your thinking most pepole junk the 18et for something better which is infact true but what about the guy who doesn't have the money to swap and wants his car to go fast on a budget smaller than what it cost to swap. Wouldn't it be good to know what his limits are for the power he wants to make? what has to be changed right away and what doesn't? This will in fact be my first contributing thread to the s12 community other than all the other nonsense I post about or to...

[Arro]

But you WILL blow up without proper fuel and intercooling. So I take it you're trying to see how much it can take STOCK, i.e. stock block, stock head, stock fuel, stock intake (no intercooler)?

Because just putting on an intercooler and some fuel mods means it can take a LOT more than what it can without them. That was kinda my point before. If you're trying to see what it will take with JUST more boost, then that's a different story. Just be aware it's significantly less than with other supporting mods.

You know, if that's true, you COULD rig up a cold start injector as a water sprayer in your over-the-valvecover tube, and use water injection as an intercooling method. You just run the water hose to your windshield wiper reservoir and run a 50/50 alcohol and water mix (which works nice for windows, too). It works wonders, but be careful not to run out when boosting up!

I could always show you how to build an electric switch for your boost control that moves it from high to low (stock) from inside the dash, with just a flick of the switch. It's cheap and not hard to put together. Might be just the trick if you seriously consider my water injection suggestion.

At least until you put in the intercooler. And of course, nothing says you can't run both techniques.

[sideways_s12]

But you WILL blow up without proper fuel and intercooling. So I take it you're trying to see how much it can take STOCK, i.e. stock block, stock head, stock fuel, stock intake (no intercooler)?

Yeah exactly to give some good numbers on what it can take before you have to change the fuel set-up and stuff

[sideways_s12]

orly, is it the o-ring one or what? take a pic of what you got.

You can ask him, just PM him about getting one for o-ringed injectors. I dunno if he'll still make them.

yes they are the oring style and I'll get you a pick as soon as I buy them this week 450's are what I'm getting that should hold up for what I'm doing


also I'm upgrading them because when I go with a larger turbo I don't want to lean out my car runs rich on it's own and I haven't corrected that problem for the purpose of upping the boost.it's coming along nicely

You know, if that's true, you COULD rig up a cold start injector as a water sprayer in your over-the-valvecover tube, and use water injection as an intercooling method. You just run the water hose to your windshield wiper reservoir and run a 50/50 alcohol and water mix (which works nice for windows, too). It works wonders, but be careful not to run out when boosting up!

I could always show you how to build an electric switch for your boost control that moves it from high to low (stock) from inside the dash, with just a flick of the switch. It's cheap and not hard to put together. Might be just the trick if you seriously consider my water injection suggestion.

At least until you put in the intercooler. And of course, nothing says you can't run both techniques.

That doesn't sound like a bad idea waylon and I were just talking about this the other day so it's funny that you mention it lol I will be considering running both when I get up there If not I was gonna run a water sprayer for the ic to keep it cool I wanted to do a nitrous sprayer for it but it's too expensive for my tastes just to cool the ic unless I inject it on the cold pipe to cool it right before it hits the motor.  

[sideways_s12]

Well the dsm 450's are in and I can't begin to tell you how good that shit feels when under boost and no you don't need a custom rail to do it.

All you need is:

2ft of goodyear 3/8's fuel injection hose you'll know what I'm talking about because it has a blue inner coding

450's from a dsm
and an o ring kit for the same injectors (I used ones from a 91 eclipse awd turbo)

Also need hose clamps

You will also need the rubber boot that holds our injectors in that black plastic housing they have a spot on them for the rubber boot.

step one: Take of old oring from the top of the dsm injectors also the rubber boot at the base of the injector top.

step two: cut hose to length and apply to injector (using wd40 will help with the ease of getting the hose on)

step three: apply hose clamps to both ends of hose.

step four: Take the silver washer that goes on the top of the black plastic housing and slide that onto the injector then take the rubber boot (if in good conditon) and slide that on in the slot This is what holds the silver washer on.


step five: Add the newly bought oring to the bottom of the injector (this is what seals the injector in the manni) repeat with other three injectors.

step six: remove old injectors from manifold and install the new ones you'll have to be careful not to over tighten the screws or the rubber boot will come off. We used three washers on each screw and 2 washers (silver ones on top of black plastic housing) just to be safe.

[sideways_s12]

^^this is what it should look like with the rubber oring and silver washer^^ (NOTE: THIS IS NOT A DSM INJECTOR) Just using it for reference.



^^This is what the fuel line should look like with the blue inner coding I was talking about.

[Arro]

yeah that's fuel grade line.