S14 Ka24de Electrical/wiring Info

[Arro]

Here is some basic info I have obtained.

This is some *S14* KA24DE info that might be handy to someone doing a swap.


These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly:

• Secondary (post cat) O2 sensor
• Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models)
• Intake air temp sensor (usually located in intake tube or air box, this is not used for operating the engine)
• Complete EGR system and associated sensors
• All transmission sensor/switches (except reverse switch, if you want your lights to work)
• All emissions control sensors and actuators

Here is the bare minimum for running the engine:

• Throttle position sensor
• Water temp sensor
• Knock sensor
• MAF sensor
• Injectors
• Distributor/coil
• Primary oxygen sensor
• Idle control motor
• Fast idle valve

This has all been verified on a couple S14 KA swaps I have found on the net. Keep in mind that you may want to keep the emissions equipment and sensors in order to skate through your regional smog testing, unless your area doesn't test.

On my engine I have many of these items still in place (I think the intake temp sensor is absent but otherwise everything else is there), but based on this information, you should be fine if you follow these guidelines.

[rage]

ive got an s14 pinout diagram here, it really helped me out with my swap. what you need to do is provide 12v to these wires:

- #1 provides main power to the coil and injectors (this should be wired to the key 'ON' position)
- #17 provides main ECU power (should also be wired to 'ON' position)
- #34 this injects more fuel for easier startup (this should be wired to the 'START' position) (its possible to start the car without this but, requires tapping of the throttle, etc..)

AND THATS IT! just 3 wires and your car will start up

[DjayS12]

If I can add to this, my car run fine and without any idle control. I just simply use the throttle body adjustment screw to adjust my idle.

[s12oregon]

will the theft system make my ka swap not have spark?

[superDorifto]

So, I'm looking at the s14 FSM, and it is showing terminal 17 on F3 as a constant voltage source from the battery?

The above directions say to link it directly to a keyed on 12V? which is correct?

[superDorifto]

Arro suggested that I re-post this in the sticky.

Expanding on my post above, and bearing in mind I am trying to put a 97+ KA into a MK1 s12...

I read the stickies a few more times, and traced the wiring diagrams in both FSMs....my concern is that the s14 sticky (this thread) shows something that does not jive with the s14 FSM

Basically it looks to me like some members potentially do not have constant 12v going to the ECU for battery back up.  My theory is that they are running stock KAs, and are not noticing that the ECU is clearing itself every time they turn the car on and off.  And running rich on its initial factory trim tables.

Reference page EF&EC-11 in the s12 FSM and EC-97 in the 97+ s14 FSM

based on what I see in the sticky,
http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=22919.0

In additon to the F17/F57 Harness grounds, they are running ACC/ON switched 12v to F3 pins number 1 and 17, with START 12v running to pin 34 for cold start enrichment. 

Looking at the s14 FSM,
F3 pin 1 gets ACC/ON 12V power,
howeve, F3 pin 17 gets constant 12v through SMJ pin G10 - feeding the ECCS relay and the battery back up on the ECU...to me, that reads as:

ACC/ON 12v to pin 1 (F3) on the s14 harness
CONSTANT 12v to pin 17 (F3) on the s14 harness
START 12V to pin 34 (F3) on the s14 harness

Combining that with the s13KA Mk1 write up I get:
http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=21003.0

ACC/ON 12v to pin 1 (F3) on the s14 harness - Supplied by CA20E Key on distibutor power (Black/White)
CONSTANT 12v to pin 17 (F3) on the s14 haraness - Supplied by pin 108 on the CA Body Harness
START 12V to pin 34 (F3) on the s14 harness - Supplied by pin 9 on the CA Body Harness

My guess is that if the wiring in the s14 write up is right that people are blanking out their ECU every time they shut off the engine...it will run fine, but the battery back up should be there to keep the trim tables intact.

Any thoughts?