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Author Topic: Rotor Turning  (Read 2977 times)

Offline 200sxkitcar

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Rotor Turning
« on: 02:52:22 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
In all the years I've owned/dealt with S12s, I've never had to do brakes, and even now the ones I have currently are just fine.  I picked up a set of S12 drilled rotors from a member here, and when the car goes back together, I would like to use them.  BUT

I'm trying to figure out how you turn a trapped rotor like this.  Its been awhile since I've operated a brake lathe, and I don't recall what you would do to turn a rotor with no real center like the S12 rotor.  Can regular shops turn this thing, or is there something special I have to do?  I figured it was nothing big, and just thought of it now.

Also, curious to know if anyone has had trouble with getting rotors turned by shops because they were drilled...

AND

On the same ideas, I'll be throwing on a new set of pads.  This is for a STOCK 4LUG setup, anyone have suggestions on good non-race pads?  Just fronts only, for now...

Thanks everybody

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Offline Radracer_S

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #1 on: 03:12:27 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
You shouldn't have a problem with them since brembo did it themselves. As for the pads however, ur venture will take to toyota p/u trucks 84-88 I believe. Try downey then branch from them.  


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Offline 200sxkitcar

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #2 on: 03:30:09 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
Ah, dude, your calipers (the Toyota ones) don't fit behind my rims.  The reason they fit your car was back in the day you were running a closer-to-fwd offset rim and a decent sized spacer, which left plenty of room for the bigger caliper.  My low offset rims can fit a big brake system OK, but the caliper needs to be out further than the OEM small diameter rotors for clearance.  Hope that makes sense... kinda hard to visualize, but Bart and I tested them out on his car, and the rotor and my/Henry's Grids had quite the disagreement, lol

but yeah, the turning I doubt would be an issue, but I don't want the old guys at Napa near me to freak out if I give them those rotors lol
« Last Edit: 03:31:35 AM / 20-Aug-08 by 200sxkitcar »
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Offline Umai Naa

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #3 on: 04:02:56 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
Bolt the hubs up to them. Make sure you remove the bearing cones, though.

Offline Jsvob03

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #4 on: 04:45:32 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
Quote from: Umai Naa
Bolt the hubs up to them. Make sure you remove the bearing cones, though.

bearing cones?

as he said, leave the hubs bolted to them, with the races in them.

Offline Keith

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #5 on: 09:02:31 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
Anyone shop that turns rotors can turn drilled rotors.  Some of the shops maybe hesistant to do so though.  I had mine turned at a Kragen 5-6 years back....no probs
« Last Edit: 09:02:53 AM / 20-Aug-08 by Keith »



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Offline Radracer_S

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #6 on: 09:20:43 AM / 20-Aug-08 »
I hope this can help. This was my old setup.



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Offline 200sxkitcar

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #7 on: 12:38:54 PM / 20-Aug-08 »
Right, right... see the thick spacer?  Thats how they fit for you, but not on my car, because my rim occupies that area.  That spacer brought the wheel out giving clearance for the caliper.

Sounds good for the rotor turning, I figued they might need the hub to do it...

Brake pad inputs?
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Offline IggyEGuana

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #8 on: 11:22:56 PM / 20-Aug-08 »
The place I work at wouldn't wanna do drilled/slotted rotors.  They would for an extra charge though, lol.  Assholes.

Hawk has good street performance pads at good prices.  I heard rumor the trade-off was brake noise though.  *shrug* idk

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Offline 200sxkitcar

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #9 on: 12:57:07 AM / 21-Aug-08 »
A little bit of noise... my car has no sound deadening.. prob ok.  I've heard good things about Hawk, so I will give those a look.

aaaanyone else
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Offline Loquat15

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #10 on: 01:36:31 AM / 21-Aug-08 »
Question... Do the bearings seat in the rotor or no?

If yes, you simply use the right adapters on a brake lathe.

If no, you use the right tool which expands small arms out which grab onto the opening in the middle of the rotor.  This centers the rotor, at least for the most part, and you'll be able to use the lathe on it.

You just gotta have the right tools.  Any shop that does brakes should have the tools of the trade.  There's a little more to it than i described, good luck if you do it on your own.  

If you dont feel comfortable doing it, don't.

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Offline 200sxkitcar

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #11 on: 03:19:02 AM / 21-Aug-08 »
Oh, I won't be doing it on my own or anything, I would take it to a shop.  But that make sense what you said there about the centering device (our bearings do not go into the rotor) it would probably just take the right-equipped shop, thats all.
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Offline Jsvob03

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #12 on: 03:00:55 PM / 21-Aug-08 »
Quote from: 200sxkitcar
Oh, I won't be doing it on my own or anything, I would take it to a shop.  But that make sense what you said there about the centering device (our bearings do not go into the rotor) it would probably just take the right-equipped shop, thats all.

eh, it depends on how you look at it. THe bearings go into the hub which is bolted to the rotor. Now, I've never considered using the universal adapter to fit the giant opening in the rotor, but if it were my car, i'd have it turned with the hub on. why? well, the bolt holes have to be centered, but the giant opening may be off a few thousandths due to machining, or extra material. However, the bearing hub will always (unless fubar!) be on center.

just my 2 cents. Ill have to get a hold of that style rotor, and see if i can cut it with the adapter.

as far as brake pads go theres a few options (this is my personal preference.)

Mostly race , little street: EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads. they take a little longer to warm up than green stuff, but are very good at resisting fade.

Some Race, Some Street: EBC Green Stuff Brake pads. Warm up quick, resist fade, but lack the stopping power of red stuff (still a very solid pad..)

Little/No race, Daily driver: Wagner Thermo Quiet (ceramic). I can't say enough about this pad. I put it on all the cars i've ever driven. Low dust, Low noise, great resistance to fade (for a street pad), and last pretty long.
« Last Edit: 03:05:26 PM / 21-Aug-08 by Jsvob03 »

Offline 200sxkitcar

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #13 on: 03:52:09 AM / 22-Aug-08 »
Cool, thanks.  yeah, I would rather do it with the hub bolted to the rotor, which would be way more accurate, makes sense.
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Offline rred510

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #14 on: 10:38:57 PM / 22-Aug-08 »
I've got some PBR mostly metallic front pads on mine and so far so good. My dad has them on his stanza too and they work good. He got them through a warehouse for 12.50 for the front set so they're pretty inexpensive too.

Offline Jager

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Rotor Turning
« Reply #15 on: 02:47:42 AM / 23-Aug-08 »
sterling as a machinist id just turn the rotor to face the jaws like the jaws were the wheel/rim, seat it 3/4 of the  way in and tighten,  that and a cutter head long enough would allow me to hit the outer face (the part towards the jaws) and the inner without any problem.

you may ask the shop if it isnt automotive to use aluminum inserts on the jaws so that the jaws dont marr the rotor itself while holding it.

my highschool machine shop could turn rotors in seconds,  whole setup in under 30 minutes for a student to do,  drilled rotors wed use a polish sander that sands a fine layer off the rotor and uses magnets to hold the piece down.  its not hard to do at all.  and because it makes passes over the part we simply set the hieght we wanted for one side let it go then spun the rotor around 90 degrees and turned it back on,  again a 5 minute job.

may be worth asking your area HS auto shop or machine shop to take a pass at it.
« Last Edit: 02:48:09 AM / 23-Aug-08 by Jager »