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Author Topic: Longer Wheel Stud  (Read 10983 times)

Offline rage

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #20 on: 08:18:22 PM / 04-Feb-09 »
Quote from: Lynium
Is it possible to get ones that would alter the bolt pattern as well ?
yes, theyre a little more pricey though

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Offline Lynium

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #21 on: 08:23:19 PM / 04-Feb-09 »
Anyone have links to these things? or are they pretty much always a custom order?

(Just for my own curiousity and for future readers/researchers)

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Offline DriftHappy

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #22 on: 09:11:13 PM / 04-Feb-09 »
They have the most common conversion spacers on eBay but any of your more odd bolt patterns will have to be custom ordered.
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Offline SkS12

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #23 on: 06:45:30 AM / 13-Feb-09 »
went to the local autoparts store and none of those wheel studs are any longer than oem s12/s13 studs which are the exaxt same, i matched every single one stated up to the new s12/s13 studs and they are all the exact same and some were even shorter! so dont count on getting longer wheel studs with this information.

Offline tweaker_s12

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #24 on: 03:08:26 PM / 13-Feb-09 »
did you try the part No. ?

Offline SkS12

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #25 on: 05:50:58 PM / 13-Feb-09 »
thats not even long enough to be a nappa part number
then i even cross referenced every bolt they carried and nothing was longer in 12x1.25
« Last Edit: 05:51:55 PM / 13-Feb-09 by SkS12 »

Offline tweaker_s12

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #26 on: 10:28:27 PM / 13-Feb-09 »
the ones i got where longer. so i dont know what to tell you

Offline SkS12

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #27 on: 03:26:57 AM / 19-Feb-09 »
alright well the ones you said i purchased and sourced from two different locations selling studs for all vehicles. I went to a NAPPA and a Partsource and all were the same length some shorter

Offline tweaker_s12

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Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #28 on: 06:18:27 PM / 19-Feb-09 »
Quote from: SkS12
alright well the ones you said i purchased and sourced from two different locations selling studs for all vehicles. I went to a NAPPA and a Partsource and all were the same length some shorter



6412785 is the part No. i left out the 2. my bad. maybe this will help you.

Offline G-E

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Re: Longer Wheel Stud
« Reply #29 on: 01:52:31 AM / 21-Aug-13 »
I just want to add to this thread, since it's important but often glossed over by shops... extended wheel studs and slip on spacers should not be a problem, ideally the spacer is hubcentric so side loads are mechanically taken away from the studs, but as long as the studs are fully seated, and nuts torqued properly, this shouldn't be a concern

I've had this discussion with many mechanics, because metallurgy isn't philosophical, there's you can, should, shouldn't, and never dream of doing

I had approached a tire/wheel vendor if they wanted a batch of extended studs, I was sent there by a friend's business across the street who's heard they do a lot of broken stud repairs, and that they regularly put spacers on cars, the management declined because "6 turns is enough" they said --- meaning they don't care if your wheels fall off, I wish there was someone I could call to have them shut down, I wanted to smack the guy in front of all the customers (and there were a lot)

To be clear, the rule of thumb for thread engagement is 1.5x the thread width, M12 x 1.5 = 18mm, and they are telling the witless customers that 0.5x (7.5mm) is enough?

The second issue is the way shops typically install studs, most shops like using impact guns to draw them in, because using the impact gun to remove the hub instead is sooooooo much work, this is BAD, it goes against everything good and sacred and kittens....

If you've never thought about it, consider it this way: you torque your wheel lugs to ~75ft-lbs, yet to draw-in a stud against all the friction takes >300ft-lbs for the entire length of the knurled section, stress that increases the further it is drawn in (sometimes 500ft-lb gun isn't enough), you're overstressing the threads for no reason, a level that can rip off the zinc coating, score the threads, or even introduce fractures at the base where the threads start --- and that's not including the turning force applied that starts shearing the knurls

The CORRECT way to install studs is either press, regular hammer, or air-hammer... I would go further and say they should always be hammered in, the sudden impact overcomes the friction, the direction of impact is in line with the knurls, and you are only adding compressive stress to the metal which will not fatigue it at all

You can open the jaws of a vice about 2", keep the stud well away from the sides, and once knurls are aligned as well as possible, tap it to start, then whack whack whack... best of all you can hear the pitch of the hit change, the hub makes a distinctive "tink" sound once the head is bottomed, instead of the "tang" sound before, shouldn't take more than 3 hits to remove a stud, and 6 hits to seat a stud

You might think you need to be delicate with the hub/bearings, you can press out the old studs with a big socket on the back with a vice, but really you don't have to worry, the shock from hammering is the least damaging way, assuming you support it properly, there's no chance of denting/bending the hub, much like when you give it a sudden heave-ho lifting something heavy, the impact from a hammer overcomes the friction
« Last Edit: 01:56:18 AM / 21-Aug-13 by G-E »