Wheel Offset

[silvia love]

tire stretching should only be on a 9'' or wider rim, stretching on a 7'' is pointless. 8'' maybe....stretching on narrow rims means super narrow tread, shit it would probably be less wide than factory haha and look like shit.


nismo_200sx
for the sizes u listed the tire width you want would be fine but the aspect ratio goes hand and hand with thread width. so 195/55 or 60 will rub but a 195/50 would be fine. same for the rear go 205/50.

my wheels on my car are 16x8 et15 i run a 15mm spacer in the rear. i rub slightly with 205/55's with a good fender roll. im dropping to a 205/45 to fix my rubbing.

[Arro]

When I say "stretch", I mean anything narrower than a 205 on a 7" wheel, or a 215 in an 8" wheel. You're thinking super-stretch, fanboy-style. To me, anything less than square on a wheel is a stretch, and anything more than square is ballooned... I sold tires for awhile, that was the industry definition.

An 8" wheel with a 195 width tire is stretched. Not severely, and it's a safe stretch. But it's stretched.

If you're going to run 195 width tires on the front, I don't see why you would want to run an 8" wheel in the front... unless it's STRICTLY for looks. Because you won't be running a 205 on a 7" zero offset wheel ON THE FRONT, much less an 8" zero offset wheel. Notice I keep emphasizing FRONT, because you mentioned the rears twice now.

So in the front,  you have 8" wheels w/ 195's that rub. I run 7" wheels w/ 195's and I *don't* rub. Make sense?

Of course, since you mentioned the rears, I agree that 205 will fit w/ Erosion offset, regardless if it's a 7" or 8" wheel. Spacers? I had 1/4" slavers on either side of the rears and it barely rubbed when the suspension fully articulated upward... I suppose with super-stiff spring rates it wouldn't. Again, I'm also talking about an IRS car that allows you to tuck the shoulder of the tire under the quarterpanel lips. If you slot the subframe for some camber correction, those slavers would have to go... and SRA cars won't be able to do this at all (they will need different offsets entirely, not zero).


Post Merge: 01:30:40 PM / 14-Aug-11
Iceageg, I removed posts I felt digressed (including pics of irrellevant cars like S13's), just a head's up, but I agree with your sentiments.

What can remain in here is testimony from people who have tried things, done proper measure and math, and explain their statements clearly.

[88 200sx se]

I run Z33 17 in wheels on mine and it seems to flush on the outside of the fronts with 215's and just clear the back quarter with 225's. But mine is also not drop so I wouldn't know it the outcome for the front would be if it was to be drop.

Spec's: 17X7.5 +30 and 17X8 +33

Don't know if this would help out a little.

[Arro]

Well considering that factory S12 wheels are I believe +38, you're losing 8mm on the front, which allows for more than enough to compensate for the extra width of the wheel. Same with the back. If anything, you should be a bit less than flush. You're right tho, a drop (especially true of the rear) will tilt them inward more as you lower it, which changes things.

[Jeremy A]

Arro,  15x7 +10et,  or 15x8 +6et? 

[Arro]

Um think about this, 15x7+10 is just a teeeeeensy tiny bit out past flush... so another inch wide, and another 4mm outward offset... means another 4mm plus a half inch (which is approx 10mm. Well, more like 12.7mm exactly)....

So basically, a 15x8 +6 will sit nearly 17mm further outward from where the 15x7 +10 does, which is already a milimeter or two out.

Also, remember that what fits one way for the front won't necessarily fit in the rear the same. Which is why sometimes we stagger widths and/or offsets.

What wheel style are you considering? That's as good a place to start as any, and worth starting a separate thread about. "This is the wheel style I want to go with, help with fitment" or something like that for the title. Go4it.

[S12-AR]

Calculating the offset of a wheel

First, measure the overall width of the wheel (remember, just because a wheel is 18x7.5, does not mean that the OVERALL width is 7.5â€Ã,. It means that the measurement between the outboard flange and the inboard flange is 7.5â€Ã,). Next, divide that width of the wheel by two; this will give you the centerline of the wheel.

Overall width/2 = Centerline

After determining the centerline, measure from the hub-mounting surface of the hub to the edge of the inboard flange (if the wheel were laying flat on the ground â€ââ,¬Å" face up â€ââ,¬Å" your measurement would be from the ground to the hub-mounting surface). This is your back spacing.

Back spacing - Centerline = Offset

[nismo_200sx]

Arro so in relation to my question what pokes out just a little bit in the front like a little bit i mean the width of my pinky finger.
the rims i want only come in these sizes
16 x 7   4 x 114.3   +25
16 x 7   4 x 114.3   +22
16 x 7   4 x 114.3   +20
16 x 7   4 x 114.3   +12
which one would be optimal for the front?

and for the rears in the same rims
16 x 8   4 x 114.3   +20
16 x 8   4 x 114.3   +4
16 x 8   4 x 114.3   +10
16 x 8   4 x 114.3   +15
which would be optimal in the rear?

Im gonna go with canuck motorsports drop springs and new struts so no intense suspension mods. just an all around ok drift car.

[Jay]

Front +12
Rear  +10 or +4

Depends on IRS or SRA for that one.

[Jeremy A]

Which if IRS?  Which if SRA?

[Jay]

SRA +4, IRS +10

The SRA is more narrow than the IRS. Just look at my sig and SRA car.

15x7 +17 front. No poke perfectly flush
15x7 +17 rear. Probably needs to come out 40mm to be flush. It's sunk in there bad

You could do the +4 on an IRS car, but I see it poking out a little. Which would suit nismos desire

[nismo_200sx]

so if i went +4 in the rear would i rub? im thinking in terms of not having to touch the fenders or  have them rub. im just not gonna do that.

[Arro]

I have 7" offset zero wheels and they're about two fingers out from the lip, so I agree with Jay's assessment.

Also, the lower you go in the rear, the more the IRS will "tuck" in the top of the tires.... the wheel starts to tilt into negative camber and the top of the tire moves inward and has more clearance.

If you ever plan to use a camber correction kit, however, this will effectively remove that extra "tucked in" clearance from lowering. Well most of it, anyways.

[dkdsilver]

could i get 16x8 zero in rear and 16 x8 +12 front?

[Does it moo?]

http://www.willtheyfit.com/

Couldn't see this link posted here. Before I found it I was a monumental spazz regarding wheels, so it might help someone else too.

[pakii-afa]

my s12 is not driving at the moment, but i need to move it from one location to another, its on blocks right now. my friend has a set of 17x7.5 +40 offest on 205/45s. i bought my car with stock 15x6 +35 on 205/65s so the new tires are shorter in height, but will they clear the inside since the new ones will sit an inch inward. would these work for a 10mile drive?

[EternalSwap]

No, highly probable they will hit the strut.

[pakii-afa]

thought that might be the issue, sorry for reviving a dead thread but i figured a sticky is better than new thread for a simple question, chats kind of dead recently too. i guess we will find out tomorrow, although i do have s13 coil overs on it so it may clear 

on a side note i do remember i drove the car on 15x5.5+50 for a week, which are 15.4mm outward from the 17s i can put on it. so fingers crossed.

[pakii-afa]

update : THEY FIT! exactly flush with the fender on the front, and the aprox 25mm norrower on the rear. inside wheel just fits on both front and rear, and i still have full lock on steering

[aS12namedLetty]

i have an 86' with the canuck lowering springs, 280 strut sleeves in front and 92 5.0 shocks in back.
rim size is 15X8.25 +15 all around
tire size 195/60/15
when i had the stock sleeves in front there was some rubbing on big bumps, but with the 280 sleeves no rubbing ever