Ok, I don't have ALL the pics, but basic disassembly is removing the outer tie rod ends, the rack boots, and inner rod ends.
And I'm leaving it to the reader to figure out how to unscrew whatever that needs to be removed, I know inner rod ends and the gland nuts around the center tube can be a pain to remove. For the inner ends I used a large adjustable wrench and a modified wrench on the rack rod, and the gland nuts I used a combo of a large adjustable wrench and a pipe wrench.
After that, start by removing the lock nut cap.
Then remove the lock nut.
Remove the pinion preload spring cover (only remove the two bolts, DON'T TOUCH THE CENTER ONE).
And remove the shoe.
Remove the dust cap and snap ring on the pinion retainer.
The pinion should be able to be GENTLY tapped out (brass or bronze drift is your friend here). After you have the pinion out, remove the snap ring from the top and drive off the spool valve and bearing (#2 is spool valve), then replace the bearing and snap ring.
Now that's done, remove the non-pinion side gland nut and pop off the rack end, and you should be able to draw out the rack.
Remove the seals and inner tube from the rack (#1, #3, #4, #5).
Reassemble everything in the reverse that it was disassembled (EDIT: Don't forget to grease everything!), leaving the parts 1-5 out, and you should have everything back together like this:
Now, it's up to you to do what you want with the lines, you could remove it like I have and plug all the ports (welded or a plug of some kind), or leave them on, either way it won't hurt anything.
And it's not required, but I feel that it's not really a manual conversion with out it, weld the pinion torsion part together, it will solidly connect the steering column to the rack and won't have that "play" that power racks have (even though it isn't much, it still dampens things).