Ok so I modified the stock fuel rail by welding the inlet on and an outler and then welding up the misddle feed. I tested it, no leaks. Reinstalled and installed an fpr to regulate the fuel and on to the next issue. The alternator. It is wired up in the k24 as a ‘power on request’ system where it has one leas for power and one signal wire. It is grounded by the block. The s12 system has 2 wires and upon research, its is ‘power on demand’ that is, the power is always pumping. Where as the k24 only uses the ecu to control it. So my theory as a work around would be to attach the two wires from the old alt, and ground the alt to the battery. That would keep the alt ‘on’ while the engine is running and since its tied into the s12 charging system, it should run independently from the honda ecu. The ac will also be independant, like i had w the ka24de. It was on a switch. This leads me into yet another dilema. The idle air control. Since the k24 comes stock with dbw, the throlle plate regulates the idle air control, thus there is no valve. So my theoritcal work around to that, would be to add an iac valve, 2 wire simple design and have signal wires from the accessories that require idle up, like e fan, rear defog, etc and have it open when these devices are activated via relay. I have een logging all my ideas in a notebook which will pretty much be the user manual. I have bunches of self made wire schematics for all my accessories from guages to usb chargers, fog lights, power inverter radio ac etc... everything on this damn engine is backwards to that of the ka24de. The coolant flows upwards and exits out the head back to the upper rad hose. I added 9mm spacers from the same stainless brackets i used for the mounts, as spacers for the front crossmember. It was the perfect amount. It lowere the engine height by like an inch and a half. How that works? Idfk but it worked well. The hood closes nice. As i mentioned before i had to cut the skeleton out of it to make it fit. I just forgot to mention the spacers in the last post. The exhaust is just one pipe cuz the k24 i have has the headerfold which is an intergrated exhaust mani header that feeds into one 3’x1.5 oval outlet. The downpipe is the cat, i cut it off and welded a 2.5” round pipe w a flange. I made an elbow so it runs right off where the stock s12 engine mount would be on pass side thus leaving me w the need to cross over back to the stock side to meet w the old exhaust system(which will be 2.5 all the way thru) ill need to wrap the exhaust where it crosses over cuz it will prob be right under the shifter location of the transmissin right under the driveshaft. The starter wiring will be independent from the k24 ecu as well. It will be tied into the s12 system or maybe ill put a push button starter gizmo thingy. The linkage for the 350z trans needs to be shortened, and a im going to weld up a new bracket cuz the old one would put the shifter too close to the middle console. The rad fan is on its own circuit and temp sensor from older nissan(2 wire) also has a bypass switch i put in the cabin for the previous swap(ka24de) they bo activate a relay that feeds power to the fan. There is going to be a lot of systems deleted from the k24 ecu’s control. I wonder if the engine would try to go into limp mode, but w all the mechanical bypasses, would it make a dofference? I may just have to go w aftermarket ecu... but first i wanted to try to ‘hack the system’. I also have to bypass the immobilizer. The ecu pinout doesn’t identify the immobilizer circuit or any connections to it. I cant think of anything else right now so again apologies for typos but these words are so damn tiny on the phone.