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Author Topic: my 1uz swap  (Read 23448 times)

Offline sam31183

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #20 on: 03:06:08 PM / 05-Apr-11 »
it looks boring to watch....but inside the car it is a totally different story. Togue driving almost feels boring sometimes in comparison.

I love the 1uz sooo much man. :)

Dave Coleman for President of Earth!!!!
Build Thread Hatch CA18DET Eventually a Track Whore
Build Thread Notch KA24DE Daily Driver

Quote from: Kustamogen
  haha me modding would be a disaster.....Id get all power hungry and  demand n00dz from everyone. Then make all the canadian s12er's come here  and massage my feet and make me jello pudding.

Actually....mod powers plz?!?!?!  0:)

Tedious?  This coming from a person who uses the word twice in a sentence?  I laughed repeatedly...


Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #21 on: 03:34:17 AM / 06-Apr-11 »
UPDATE: i finished running all the fuel lines/hoses today, fitted the walbro intank pump,
the air intake is all made up, i had to find a shorter clutch master cylinder as the factory one
fowled on the rocker cover so found one off a VY10 nissan sentra wagon and lathed 2.5mm
of the end of it just for extra clearance..photos to come

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #22 on: 05:35:25 AM / 08-Apr-11 »

Clutch master off the sentra..

The new drive shaft fitted

Bigger fuel lines made

Offline tommy

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #23 on: 08:17:25 AM / 08-Apr-11 »
Yeah, I'd like to know what's the tranny your using, W5x or R15x...?
Is it bolted on using a custom adapter plate on the auto-bellhousing and a hydraulic throwout bearing or a modified manual bellhousing?

All we can see is the rear of it and the tail housing really looks like an r154

Corolla TE31 1977 (traded)
Corolla KE20 1974 (Project)

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #24 on: 12:09:03 AM / 09-Apr-11 »
It's a w58 man.. With an adaptor plate, I still have to get a hydraulic release bearing tho.. I be doing that as soon as I take the car home again..

Offline tommy

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #25 on: 09:54:45 AM / 09-Apr-11 »
You're not worried about using a W tranny behind a 1uz... there is a reason why they only found their way behind N/A jz series (max torque the W was ever used stock was 220ft/lbs)...every other toyota engine producing more torque used either a V or an R, 1/2jzgte, 5vzfe, 1grfe, etc...  Ws are known to get itchy around 300 ft/lbs of torque (some say 250 others 350...)

Anyways, it's a very nice swap you've got going... ohh and the BFG rear axle "Big Fucking G" 8 inch from a toyota hilux is a very nice choice... I have yet to see someone blow this thing "unintentionally"
Corolla TE31 1977 (traded)
Corolla KE20 1974 (Project)

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #26 on: 06:29:59 PM / 09-Apr-11 »
Yea it was more because of the price and availability of the gear boxes the W boxes are alot more plentiful and ALOT cheaper.. and the hilux conversion is pretymuch standard procedure these days sorta like the ford nine inch back in the 80s-90s..

Offline David B

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #27 on: 06:42:50 PM / 09-Apr-11 »
This is awesome! But I have to tell you, that SRA's H190 differential is going to spill sprockets all over the pavement after just a few hard shifts, they're not known for being very strong. You seem to have enough fabrications skills to convert to a Chevy or Ford rear end, and you need to make a custom one piece driveshaft anyways. Keep this in mind.



i disagree to this statement. it depends on your clutch and driveshaft/tires. 280 ft pound tq rating on the diff apparently, wtf does that mean?! how do we know how much tq strain the diff actually sees! and for how long..

ive broken one diff due to a bad weld in 4 years almost. my diff is filled with chromalloy or w/e now
and when i broke it i was launching  with 225's, a comp stage 4 clutch, and sr20 on a 1/8th mile drag strip. and clearly the diff broke the welds

ive also had a twin disk exedy on a ka

and currently have done a drift event/alot of driving with a 1jz with stock clutch and 1 piece driveshaft. and ive been beating the fuck out of it/ clutch kicking


do take note of driveshaft clearance! for the floor pan. i had to cut some of my driveshaft tunnel out. though my trans does sit very high to clear for the r154.

the r154 trans doesnt fit so well in a s12 trans tunnel. a w58 should fine.


i technically have a h165, i have a diff and axles/disk brakes from a s110 200sx.

just dont put a heavy clutch on it.. thats my 2 cents.



and for using a w series.. just remember, the 400$ or whatever you spending to get a 1 piece driveshaft, wont be useable if you realize the w58 is too weak for your liking. r154 would require a whole new shaft.

and the r154 just might not fit they way you have your motor possible if you have a w58 mounted. its a wide ass trans


just saw your modified 2 piece.. that should help with the diff strain




any reason why you upgraded fuel lines? i didnt know if i should or not. since 240's are fine with 1j's
« Last Edit: 06:51:21 PM / 09-Apr-11 by David B »


caged ca20e/ka24e/sr20det/ka24de/1jzgte SRA hatch. super sick

Quote from: Arro
Goddamn David you seriously are hard core man.
Quote from: tjs91tsi
Ohh, and unless you havn't figured it out yet, Stop driving with coolant leaks and Stop dropping nails in your fucking trannys!!!

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #28 on: 04:03:25 AM / 10-Apr-11 »
most of the 1uz manual conversions i have seen have the w# boxes but one day when i have the money i will twin turbo the car so will definitly have to put in an r154..the driveshaft is no problem (not to expensive to get made up) and was told by a driveshaft maker a two piece is usualy stronger and you have to go alot larger diameter with a one piece as there is more flex over a longer length and if i went bigger it wouly fowel on the hand brake cable where it comes through the floor..and the fuel lines : i made the delivery line bigger just because thats the size the 1uz has from factory..

Offline tommy

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #29 on: 11:42:40 AM / 10-Apr-11 »
2 pieces driveshafts should always be used anyways, if that is what the stock car where the transmission came from was using... transmissions are designed to bare a certain weight on the rear of the tail housing, the weight of the driveshaft (or half the weight since the diff is bearing the other half).  If the tranny was designed to not handle all the weight by using a carrier bearing on a 2 pieces driveshaft, then don't put more strain on it by removing it and letting it support all the weight of the driveshaft... ( the carrier bearing is also a lot closer to the tranny than it is to the diff, so it doesn't split the weight (from tranny to diff) 1/3, 1/3, 1/3, but more like 1/4, 1/4, 1/2, which considerably relieve the transmission from the weight of the driveshaft.  If you remove that carrier bearing, all this added weight on front, which wasn't supposed to be there when engineers designed the tranny, leads to a lot of problem in the long run, from total failure to the pesky rear transmission seals leakage. 
Corolla TE31 1977 (traded)
Corolla KE20 1974 (Project)

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #30 on: 01:47:49 PM / 10-Apr-11 »
Very good point..I never thought about it that way..

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #31 on: 04:41:59 AM / 14-Aug-11 »
finally back with some new photos, sorry its been so long
water system is finished, box and driveshaft is in, it bodys painted, just needs to be put back together
i have just started the wiring and that should be it before i can start it
suspension and brakes are next on the list
here are the latest photos










Offline RB25sx - SLPR

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #32 on: 05:12:12 AM / 14-Aug-11 »
2 pieces driveshafts should always be used anyways, if that is what the stock car where the transmission came from was using... transmissions are designed to bare a certain weight on the rear of the tail housing, the weight of the driveshaft (or half the weight since the diff is bearing the other half).  If the tranny was designed to not handle all the weight by using a carrier bearing on a 2 pieces driveshaft, then don't put more strain on it by removing it and letting it support all the weight of the driveshaft... ( the carrier bearing is also a lot closer to the tranny than it is to the diff, so it doesn't split the weight (from tranny to diff) 1/3, 1/3, 1/3, but more like 1/4, 1/4, 1/2, which considerably relieve the transmission from the weight of the driveshaft.  If you remove that carrier bearing, all this added weight on front, which wasn't supposed to be there when engineers designed the tranny, leads to a lot of problem in the long run, from total failure to the pesky rear transmission seals leakage. 


This doesn't really make a lot of sense. 2 piece driveshafts exist for the sole reason of cancelling out harmonics due to imperfections in the driveshaft either as a result of poor quality control, or damage sustained while driving the vehicle. In a performance car a 1 piece is ideal due to A) less rotational mass (typically) and B) fewer moving/grease parts..

I haven't a clue what you mean by 'weights'.

Also, this is a sick build.. Looks like you are going the clean/stock appearance route? I can dig it.

-dan

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #33 on: 05:22:36 AM / 14-Aug-11 »
yea man back to original body..just rims and lowering

Offline David B

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #34 on: 02:18:27 AM / 15-Aug-11 »
legit


caged ca20e/ka24e/sr20det/ka24de/1jzgte SRA hatch. super sick

Quote from: Arro
Goddamn David you seriously are hard core man.
Quote from: tjs91tsi
Ohh, and unless you havn't figured it out yet, Stop driving with coolant leaks and Stop dropping nails in your fucking trannys!!!

Offline Maxpow

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #35 on: 03:51:12 AM / 15-Aug-11 »
So awesome.
1987 Nissan 200sx SE ("The Squirrely Drifter") - Totaled and Gone forever
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Offline tommy

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #36 on: 02:50:59 PM / 15-Aug-11 »
This doesn't really make a lot of sense. 2 piece driveshafts exist for the sole reason of cancelling out harmonics due to imperfections in the driveshaft either as a result of poor quality control, or damage sustained while driving the vehicle. In a performance car a 1 piece is ideal due to A) less rotational mass (typically) and B) fewer moving/grease parts..

I haven't a clue what you mean by 'weights'.

Also, this is a sick build.. Looks like you are going the clean/stock appearance route? I can dig it.

-dan

You are right about harmonic dampning, but there is much on the subject...

Weight is the mass of the thing... and that mass has to be carried by something, with a 1 piece driveshaft, the whole weight of the the driveshaft rides on the tail housing and the diff... the carrier bearing (as its name implies) carries a big portion of the weight of the driveshaft, unloading the rear of the transmission housing, which is made out of cast alloy and is not very strong, and unloading the rear transmission bushing that supports the yoke of your driveshaft. 

Lets do maths here.... the weight of a U joint is probably around 2 or 3 lbs, so if I were to swap my 20lbs 2 piece driveshaft for a 1 piece, I would replace it with a 17lbs drive shaft... half that weight rides on the tail housing, so it's 8 1/2 lbs riding on it.... normally, with the stock 2 piece unit, you have the 20 lbs riding on 3 parts, so if the weight was to be carried equally, 6.33lbs would be put on the tranny tail housing.  But the truth is that the carrier bearing sits before the center U joint and the front driveshaft portion is about 1/3 to 1/4 the total lenght... lets say it's 1/3... then, 6.33 lbs are now riding on 2 area, the tranny and the carrier bearing, so the tranny is really carrying only half that weight, a little over 3 lbs... by changing that 2 piece driveshaft with a 1 piece, you are asking the tranny to carry almost 3 times the weight it was supposed to carry originally...

Sure I'm talking dead weight now, and a lighter driveshaft also means less rotational forces, but we are talking 15% less weight, but we are also talking in a increase of 170% on the load carried by the little cast aluminium tail housing... side forces are always applied, even if the thing is 100% balanced and true.  Those side loads mean that the 8 1/2lbs can become really high really fast, way faster than the 3 lbs, since those forces are multiplicative... imagine if that driveshaft is only 99% balanced, it could mean a lot of bad things a lot faster for the 1 piece driveshaft here... not worth the risk IMO.  If you want to shave 3lbs off the rotational mass of your drivetrain, shave it off your flywheel, it will benefit your downshifting and rev matching abilities and you won't run the risk of ruining your tail housing bushing or worst, exploding your whole tail housing like I've seen....

On an IRS s12, that is about it, but on a SRA s12, a 2 piece driveshaft will reduce rear axle unsprung weight compared to a 1 piece driveshaft

Sorry for the thread highjack here... keep it up, I really want to here that 1uz scream... better, I would love to here it scream through 8 ITBs.... yummy
Corolla TE31 1977 (traded)
Corolla KE20 1974 (Project)

Offline 1NZS12

Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #37 on: 04:06:42 AM / 03-Oct-11 »
some new photos..






Offline David B

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #38 on: 05:17:39 AM / 03-Oct-11 »
bam. looks awesome!


caged ca20e/ka24e/sr20det/ka24de/1jzgte SRA hatch. super sick

Quote from: Arro
Goddamn David you seriously are hard core man.
Quote from: tjs91tsi
Ohh, and unless you havn't figured it out yet, Stop driving with coolant leaks and Stop dropping nails in your fucking trannys!!!

Offline tommy

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Re: my 1uz swap
« Reply #39 on: 07:00:20 AM / 03-Oct-11 »
Wow, actually the engine bay looks less crowded with a UZ than with a VG... and that thing weight nothing compared.  :thumbsup:
And it's also funny that Nissan needed to change the hood design to accomodate for a 3L v6 SOHC, but a 4L v8 DOHC fits snuggly under the flat hood...
Corolla TE31 1977 (traded)
Corolla KE20 1974 (Project)