Low594's S12 Notch

[Low594]

The magnet gathers bits out of the water.  Im just running the water in it to help it flush and clean the old goo out. Looks clean, but she sat for at least 5 yrs. Then drain and refill with distilled water, its cleaner, and add the Water Wetter.  AntiFreeze isn't needed here at sea level, since it hits near freezing for an hour or 2 ever couple of years!
Post Merge: 01:50:17 PM / 15-Jun-11
Do you know of any cleaner product?

[Wolf Dilworth]

The anti-freeze also prevents corrosive decay, which you are actually accelerating with straight water.  IIRC Water Wetter does not have any corrosion inhibitors.

Putting Distilled water into a rusted gummed-up coolant system is just a waste of time, the instant it hits the system it becomes plain ol' tap water again.  Think about it...  Just use straight water if that is your method of choice.  Seriously though, just fill the system with 50/50 and run it for a week then drain and refill, your done. 

I have heard of some people using carpet cleaning solution with anti-foaming mix to help break loose some of the crud, but again the anti-freeze already has detergents built in, so...

Good luck.

[Low594]

Oh right! That makes sense! Typically when I have done work on a cooling system in the past i've cleaned or replaced the radiators and flushed the engine, so then i just run distilled water and WaterWetter or the premixed bottle of Redline SuperCool, but in this case I can't afford it at this time!

The PO changed the coolant before I picked it up, so its had roughly 3k miles on fresh coolant with anti freeze.  Thinking i'll drain it, change the thermostat, refill with distilled water and antifreeze (75/25) and Water Wetter.  Maybe I should run some SuperFlush through it?!

I'm kind of curious as to what the water pump looks like.  I've seen more than one that sat for years and the fins were eaten away!


Where on the gauge is normal?  I know alot of vehicles the needle is in the middle, but not all.  If that is the way these are then something else maybe up with it, like a missing thermostat, cause it can stay in the first section by the" C" all day long til the air temp hits somewhere like 85* or higher. But it did spend a few years in Mexico, so it may have been removed!

[Wolf Dilworth]

Where on the gauge is normal?  I know alot of vehicles the needle is in the middle, but not all.  If that is the way these are then something else maybe up with it, like a missing thermostat, cause it can stay in the first section by the" C" all day long til the air temp hits somewhere like 85* or higher. But it did spend a few years in Mexico, so it may have been removed!

I still do not understand your fascination with distilled water, but oh well...

As for my experience with the SE temp gauge:
When I was driving my 88 SE, completely stock under the hood (including clutch fan), the gauge would stay right in the middle.

Now with my 87 SE, mild intake port work, EE headers and a Maxima dual electric fan shroud with only one fan hooked up, I get a little right of the center now.  Daily temps are regularly 100 degrees or more for the last three weeks, and I have not had to worry about the temp at all.

I would not recommend running without a thermostat, that is old school redneck engineering at its worst.  The thermostat has a very definite function and I would get in there and check for one.  Since you are going to be halfway into a water pump job, might as well go all the way.  As you have expressed, the pump could be garbage. 

They are cheap insurance...  A pump going tits-up will leave you stranded bigger than shit.

[Low594]

I would not recommend running without a thermostat, that is old school redneck engineering at its worst.  The thermostat has a very definite function and I would get in there and check for one.  Since you are going to be halfway into a water pump job, might as well go all the way.  As you have expressed, the pump could be garbage. 

They are cheap insurance...  A pump going tits-up will leave you stranded bigger than shit.

Same as my thoughts!
Post Merge: 04:56:07 AM / 17-Jun-11

I still do not understand your fascination with distilled water, but oh well...

my fascination with it has been simply, its what I was taught and have had the best results with.  But your questioning it got me to do a bit of online research.  Every page I came across when looking up coolant sys&  distilled, repeatedly said using Distilled water over osmosis, DI or tap water. Many even said tap was very bad, adding minerals into the sys. Even the Navy uses only distilled water according to one site!  Here in the Bay Area, we have hard water, not to mention toxins from the computer & military industries over the years!

I'm not going to try to convince you to chance, but it gives me more reasoning not to change my ways.  Thank you for encouraging me to do the research to confirm my understanding and practices!
Post Merge: 10:16:08 AM / 17-Jun-11
I also checked out the Water Wetter and it does indeed has corrosion inhibitors!

[Wolf Dilworth]

That is all fine but it is just gilding a Lilly, seriously.  As long as you use anti-freeze there will be no problem, minerals stay suspended in the coolant.  No matter what you do there will be minerals (remember the engine is made from minerals) in your system.  Oxides are what you want to prevent and  my anti-freeze is always green when I change it after two years of hard service, Texas heat and all...   Never intended to change your mind and you can choose to believe what you want.  I don't buy into the hype over coolant additives, if you have a sound system then "vapor barriers" have no ill effect, except on your wallet.

As for the Navy, that is a half truth.  All the drinking water (potable) on board ships is distilled from sea water, shore facilities just use the crap from the tap.

Peace out.

[Low594]

Well, successfully removed and broke the 2nd Cpillar trim, so now they match! But I did repaint them and the sheetmetal underneath.  Im going to glue them back in place sometime this week.

[Low594]

Well, I had some time today before the sun went down. So I replaced a few more vacuum lines now that I have the right size, still need a little more hose!  I also drained the coolant sys and changed the thermostat, which was open slightly but crooked and seized. So in tomorrow mornings cold I should have a defroster and in the heat of the day it should do a bit better!

I also looked for the PCV and had no positive sighting! I think its in the front under the plenum but above the intake runners, is that right?!  Do I have to remove the plenum to get to it?  Are there any gaskets that will get damaged?

[Low594]

Well, its been a week so I thought I would throw an update out there!

-the PO had changed out the steering rack and it was doing well, till one day when it suddenly started making that aweful screech! Looked underneath and the pressure line had come loose! Then I found the reason, he bolted one clamp down and the other had the wrong bolts! And was loose!  So I got it strapped down and then got bolts from my picknpull day last weekend!

- tried to get it thru smog again, no joy! Seems the vacuum solenoid isn't allowing vacuum thru, now just to figure out why!  But the good news is the HC and CO readings have dropped to well below the limits!

- I made a custom dash mount for my Droid2 dock, using one of the switch blanks that a PO had drilled a hole in for a fog light switch

This weekend I plan to hit the other picknpull in the area in search misc pieces, Idle Air Adj, and truck or 260z shifter.  Also, I will be cleaning and greasing the brake sys and replacing the rear brake pads, so I will have a parking brake!  Maybe if I get bored I will paint the calipers and the wheels!

Thinking its time for some pics, i'll see if I can remember when its not dark out!

[Low594]

Yesterday, I changed out the trans&  diff fluid for Redline 75w90, nice improvement in shift quality and firmness!  I also painted the stock steel rims in the rear, now they are satin black with out the ugly hubcaps and trim rings.  I might put the trim rings back tho, but gotta paint the fronts.  Unfortunately, I had no luck getting the rear brake calipers working again!

[Arro]

I thought our transmissions used GL-4....?

[Low594]

Well, when I looked everything up, I picked 75w90 for the temp ranges that I see in this area.  I hadn't come across the info between gl4 & gl5. Doing more looking around online, seems that Nissan dealers and racers use both, but GL4 may have better shift qualities. Redline specs GL4 for our trans and GL5 for our diffs.  So looks like I will be changing it out again in the near future! Thanks!

[Wolf Dilworth]

GL4 had heavy metals and has been phased out GL5 is supposed to be GL4 compatible, some claim that GL5 will do harm to the Brass synchro rings.  The debate rages on-line.

[Low594]

That's what I was seeing as well!  Considering swapping the GL5 for GL4, sticking with the Redline.  Redlines website actually lists our cars and specifies the different trans options, surprised the hell out of me!  There they list using their GL4 in the 71B trans.

[tommy]

The only difference between the GL4 and GL5 was that the GL5 used anti-friction additive that will make the brass synchro slips and will lead to premature failure... use GL5 in your diff, but keep that shit out of your tranny, FS5W71C or B

The FSM for my 75-79 corolla clearly states to NOT use GL5 in the tranny for this reason... I don't know about the s12 one, but since they both use brass synchro, I don't think their is much of a debate to have on the subject...

[Low594]

Here's the emails I traded with Redline!

Me:
To: info@redlineoil.com
Subject: gear oil help
I own a 1985 Nissan 200sx 2.0NA w the FS5W71B trans.
I recently changed the trans and diff fluid to the 75w90 GL5.  Then someone told me GL5 was bad for the trans, I looked at your application guide and it says to run GL4.  Online there are many opinions, but which do I believe?  I would rather change the fluid soon than the trans later.  I drive it as a commuter, but also as a hobby hotrod.

Redline:
James,
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in your 200SX transmission the MT-90 is recommended. The 75W90 well suited and recommended for the differential but contains a friction modifier so wouldnââ,¬â,,¢t be recommended for the transmission as it could be too slippery for the synchros. Some GL-5 gear oils can be corrosive to brass, bronze or copper components, though not the case with our gear oils.
How is the shiftability, does it shift alright? If so you could leave the 75W90 in the transmission.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil

Me:
Thank you for your help!
It does shift better, but that is comparing to the unknown brand/weight and age of the fluid. I just bought the car and it had sat for 8+ years!  Thinking just to be safe and change it out to the MT-90.
I read an online article about modern Nissan trans being designed for Ester based fluids and that your fluids work well in them, because your fluids are still Ester based when others have changed over the years.  Do you know if this is true for the older Nissans and what more can you tell me?
Thank you for your time and knowledge!
~>James

Redline:
James,
Glad to hear the transmission is shifting well.
There is a TSB out specifying an ester based engine oil in some specific late model Nissans, not transmissions.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil

** I have decided, since I am short on funds and this thing is demanding attention, I will keep the GL5 in it until I feel there is a problem.  Right after these emails, my clutch slave went out.  It's been changed along with the master, I couldn't find a source for the hose without the car being down for a day or 2, which I can't afford til next month!  The lil bit of gear selecting trouble that I had went away with either the oil change and/or the hydraulic issues being resolved!
Post Merge: 12:33:20 AM / 17-Jul-11
The last week or so has been busy!
-Hyd. clutch sys replacement, still need the hose. Anyone know where I can order one?
-Rear brake pads changed. Still no parking brake, tho!  I gotta look into this one, seems to be working, but still rolls on the slightest slope!  Wondering about the cable being stretched or the discs.  I should just order new discs. 
-S13 steering wheel installed!  CL find for $10!

Slightly smaller diameter, and thicker = way more comfortable!  Direct bolt in!
You can even see the short throw shifter and the Droid2 dash mount!
-Painted the stock steel rims, but needs longer lugs that the chrome isn't flaking off of!  Looking for a good deal on 15x7-7.5 deep dish style alloys.

-Painted the chrome trim around the drivers window and the passenger door handle.  If the puppy didn't chew up the blue tape I could have finished both sides!  Looks way better now tho!
-Picked up some cheap projector H6054 H4 housings with bulbs and daytime lights from Cl for $25 pair!  Now I just have to get rid of the rusted in trim ring bolts!

[Prolowtone]

Hey, pull your E-brake cable and then climb under the rear and try to move the pivot that the cable pulls on to engage the brake. if you can move it with the brake on then you will need new cables if its tight then replace the calipers. Its an easy thing to check

[Arro]

Here's the emails I traded with Redline!

** I have decided, since I am short on funds and this thing is demanding attention, I will keep the GL5 in it until I feel there is a problem. 

That is the most contradicting statement you could make. If you're short on funds, do you really want to screw up mechanicals? Put the proper fluid in and be safe, not sorry.

[Wolf Dilworth]

He is broke after buying useless distilled water... Will not listen to reason.    LOL

Just had to poke ya...  :o)

[tommy]

put 25$ of GL4 in there... your synchros cost more than that... and you'd be out of a transmission for a week if you attempt to change them...
Post Merge: 05:04:55 PM / 17-Jul-11
if you really are broke, put your "not so used" GL5 out of your tranny in your diff, and the rest in an empty quart for your next diff fluid change, but don't drive an other mile with it in the tranny... please