Club-S12 International S12OC United Kingdom ClubS12 France S12Silvia Australia Eastern Europe S12 of Sweden S12 Japan BBS
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: Replacing Brake system on an S12  (Read 7960 times)

Offline drift_addict

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 374
    • http://
Replacing Brake system on an S12
« on: 07:15:49 AM / 03-May-05 »
I am going to be replacing rear calipers, pads all around and a front left wheels bearing this weekend. If there is anyone that wants pictures or a write-up I can do one. If there is a demand I will take the time to do the pics and what not if not thats ok too, just thought I would get some input.

Facebook Share    

Offline drift_addict

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 374
    • http://
Replacing Brake system on an S12
« Reply #1 on: 03:41:10 PM / 08-May-05 »
Replacing Brake system on an S12
17mm socket wrench (a box end would be helpful as well)
14mm socket wrench (a box end would be helpful as well)
19mm socket wrench  
Adjustable channel wrench  
8mm box end wrench
Flat head screwdriver
RR Caliper Kit and set of pads
RL Caliper Kit and set of pads
FR Set of pads
FL Set of pads
Slider Pin lube
Wheel bearing grease
1L Brake fluid (DOT3)
A few zip ties
NOTE:This guide is assuming that you already have your car jacked on blocks and the wheels off. I did the front and the back brakes seperately as to avoid a high loss of fluid. The bleeding is a lot easier if there is less air in the lines and if the resivour for the fluid doesnt go dry so watch it to make sure it is above the minimum.
Back Brakes
Picture of caliper:
Once your wheel is off you will see that the rotor is lose, the only thing that is holding it in is the caliper. The caliper is bolted to the torque mount or torque bracket by the use of the threaded slider pin. You will notice the slider pins because they have little shock boots cover the pin as to block out the dust and what not to keep a smooth brake. Before you start the removal process you should unplug the brake line from the caliper and it will bleed a little. You can catch the fluid but it probably isnt safe to reuse it. I used a small nail to semi-plue the line and added a peice of cotton to the end to stop it from bleeding excessively. Use a ziptie to hold the brake in an upright position and attach it to your spring for later use. Now for removal:
1. Using a 14mm socket remove both of the threaded slider pins. This will free the caliper from the torque bracket. You will see that the e-brake bracket is holding the caliper in place.  
2. Gently pull on the e-brake line and unhook it from the caliper. Now if you look down on the caliper you will see a 17mm bolt holding the e-brake line bracket onto the caliper. Using the 17mm sockey remove that bolt. Now your e-brake line is left hanging.  
3. Using a 14mm remove the two threaded slider pins. this will free the caliper from the torque bracket as well expose the brake pads.
4. Using a flat head screwdriver remove the old brake pads from the torque bracket. By doing this you will also remove the two plates or clips holding the pads in place. Your new calipers will come with a hardware set which includes new ones so dont worry if you break them.
5. Using a 17mm socket remove the two bolts holding the torque bracket in place.
At this point your rotor will just come off. Always wipe the new rotors with a clean rag and some solvet to ensure a good clean surface. The toque brackets are reusuable as long as they are still in decent condition.  
     What you should find in your new caliper kit:
          Caliper unit, hardware kit including washers for brake lines, pad clips, new slider pins and mounting hardware.  
Before moving on to reassembly it is a good idea to lube the slider pins and put the boots back on as well, just to have them ready. You want an adequate amount of lube but not so much that the slider pin cant slide. Remember that grease doesnt compress well.  
Reassemly is pretty much the exact reverse of what you just did.  
1. Place new rotor on studs and put back as far as it will go.  
2. Using a 17mm socket replace the torque bracket ensuring the rotor is in the guide of the torque bracket.
3. Place the new pad clips in place, and press the pads in place as close to the rotor as you can. The pad with the clips is the one that goes on the back side.
4. Take the brake line and replace the copper washer on the end of it with a new one from the hardware kit. Using some pliars remove the little cap that is on the new caliper where the brake line goes in.  
5. Put the new caliper in place of the old one and put the new threaded slider pins in place. Make sure that you work them in really well as to get a good amount of grease throughout evenly. This is the tricky part...getting the boot back onto the torque bracket side, it is tedious but crucial. You dont want dust getting in there! Tighten the slider pins down with the 14mm socket.  
6. Put the e-brake bracket back in pace on the new caliper using the 17mm socket. Also put the e-brake line back in its place as well.  
« Last Edit: 12:37:44 AM / 10-Jan-09 by 200sxkitcar »

Offline Cadence

  • n00b
  • **
  • Posts: 5
Re: Replacing Brake system on an S12
« Reply #2 on: 09:05:53 PM / 10-Apr-11 »
what kind of pads for rear S12 ?