84 notch supercharged 1uzfe stage 2 drift build

Started by Spoolinups13, 06:49:16 PM / 15-Dec-12

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iceageg

So much great built to purpose fabrication work.  Can't wait for the next update.  Did you get your supercharger oiling issue resolved as well?
Quote from: VG33ERGazelle? on 04:50:38 PM / 26-Aug-11
I was afraid all the five gallon buckets of pain stacked four high were going to fall over

my12

I could only dream of something like this. That is a great build! Can't wait to see the end work of this, will continue to follow this.

WIGGLS

Sorry to be a pain in the ass but what size wheels are they on the back, the white steel ones? im assuming 15x10 0 offset or something? and howd they fit without flares on haha
Me-"Bro, im pretty sure waterpumps run off water pressure"
Nathan-"Oh yeah im pretty sure thats it"

Spoolinups13

Quote from: iceageg on 06:13:45 AM / 12-Mar-15
So much great built to purpose fabrication work.  Can't wait for the next update.  Did you get your supercharger oiling issue resolved as well?
-I think at this point im going to take my chance with this setup, i know its not optimal and its not how it should be but im just going to hope luck is on my side for this year.

Quote from: my12 on 07:22:58 AM / 12-Mar-15
I could only dream of something like this. That is a great build! Can't wait to see the end work of this, will continue to follow this.
-Thanks for following along!

Quote from: WIGGLS on 08:02:26 AM / 12-Mar-15
Sorry to be a pain in the ass but what size wheels are they on the back, the white steel ones? im assuming 15x10 0 offset or something? and howd they fit without flares on haha
-No pain at all man this i why i go out of my way so that other people can learn as i have! Theyre 15x10 steel wagon wheels i believe theyre -37mm offset or 4.5 inch backspace..yes no typo Negative offset!Lol plan on big flares,body chopping and narrow tires to fit some like it..o and the power to back it up they weigh a ton haha

I will be updating soon i have alot more pics of some other stuff ive been doing too, i think everyone will scratch there heads a bit when they see my exhaust setup..its interesting and experimental to say the least, if you look behind the left door you may catch it in the pic above

iceageg

Quote from: Spoolinups13 on 11:50:28 AM / 12-Mar-15
-I think at this point im going to take my chance with this setup, i know its not optimal and its not how it should be but im just going to hope luck is on my side for this year.

Looking closer at your setup I would likely have my Vortech dealer status revoked if I did not tell you that the blower is upside down and should not be operated in that configuration.  I do know if you were to send it in to be rebuilt with pictures of it configured that way they would not honor any warranty it may have left.

Un-pleasantries out of the way . . . Odds are you will be fine for quite a while.  I have seen V-1s run completely starved for oil for extended periods of time.  Making audible grinding noises.  Don't try it at home or on an engine you care about folks.  We have a test bench in the corner of the shop dedicated to testing our blowers before installation.  You wouldn't believe the absurd torture we have put them through for testing.  Based on my experience yours will fail prematurely in this configuration but it should not be suddenly catastrophic.  You should notice some combination of symptoms like power loss, oil leaking out of the case, oil leaking out of the shaft seal, oil leaking into the airflow, premature belt wear, belt glazing and "noise" from the blower before it actually fails.

The way yours is mounted looks like it would be a decent project to get the blower tag side up.  It's certainly easier to leave it as it is for now.  If/when you are ready to flip it right side up I can send you CAD drawings of the bolt locations.  Here is a picture that will give you some indication of how much of the internals will be submerged with the drain at your 3 o'clock position (or any other position you may give a try).  Essentially, everything.  Both shafts, gears bearings and seals will be completely submerged even when at rest.  Even the business end of the oil delivery spray nozzle is submerged.


There is something you can do that may help quite a bit.  There is a different plug at your 4:30 position.  It plugs a smaller hole that is used for the spray nozzle for V-1's that turn the opposite direction.  You could pop out that plug, put a fitting in it and run it to a T fitting in the existing oil drain.  At rest this would drop the oil level far enough that the upper shaft and bearing would be completely above the level and more importantly, the oil nozzle as well.  I know for a fact that the normal oil drain is FAR from half full and we have used this double drain technique on one of our systems as well.  There is more than ample room in the oil drain hose to accommodate both should you go this route.

Good luck and keep up the good work.  Can wait to see this thing spoolin up sideways!
Quote from: VG33ERGazelle? on 04:50:38 PM / 26-Aug-11
I was afraid all the five gallon buckets of pain stacked four high were going to fall over

Spoolinups13

Well I hate to say that ive been too busy to update this page...but ive been wayyy too busy. At the least ive taken many pictures so check em out! The roll cage took me about a week working a couple hours on it at a time, im happy with the results needless to say. Ran into a little snag that set me back I had to build a hitch mount for my tubing bender since a main beam in the building was interfering with my bends on the main hoop! The exhaust is officially done as well, I ran it through the cab behind the driver seat so a shield and some exhaust wrap have been put to good use there, with 3 inch from the y pipe back and a dynomax 6 inch bullet race muffler its should get the point through that this thing has a 4 litre heater under the hood!







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IggyEGuana

Life is good when badass S12s are being built

Waylon Deno - Silhouette Autosports (check it out on facebook)
Drift Build Thread
Quote from: Arro
you sir are emblazoned with win.

mc

...love that location for a side exhaust exit.

Spoolinups13

So as usual pretty steady progress, been tying up all the little things like my battery relocation wires,intercooler pipes,fuel lines, and some custom led directionals while waiting for the supercharger rebuild kit to come in. After I finished the starter circuit I put some oil in it and cranked it over for a compression test which turned out well. I had two cylinder a little low but withing 25 psi of the others with the highest being 240 psi! not bad for a 24 year old engine with 200k on it.











So everything has been going pretty smooth but I am a little bummed out about what happened today. Basically dis assembling the supercharger was to re drill the housing for a new location of the drain fitting since my unit is being used up side down. I didn't have much trouble takng it apart in a night, I had to utilize the press and vice to get the shafts free but after getting them out I drilled it and tapped it for an npt fitting...no problems,no gear contact to the fitting or anything. I ordered a rebuild kit figured I would freshen it up with new bearings and seals before re assembling the unit..great so I order the kit 250 dollars later and two days it arrives! Today I spent most of the day putting it all back together, I noticed the high speed shaft seal was different when taking it out of the package. After a little research I find out its a mechanical seal which just seals on the backside washer of the impeller wheel instead of the shaft itself. So I get the seal in the housing, heat everything up goes together like butter everything looks mint! After installing the impeller wheel I realize the unit while no longer turn..f@%!$$@^kkkk. TURNS OUTT the mechanical seal was pressing up against the back of the impeller wheel too hard which in turn cracked the 60 dollar seal. Long story short I tried removing the seal without dis-assembling the housing (since that would possibly require new bearings AGAIN)and I gouged the housing up pretty bad and put a crack behind where the seal bottoms out.. Its not the end of the world but definitely a set back, the housing is still usable I will be buying the right seal cleaning up the aluminum the best I can but its not pretty..



My attempt to use a sharpened chisel to loosen the seal


Anddd the damage, its ugly but luckily the part where its cracked and pushed back towards the bearing isn't hitting the bearing itself. A little rtv around the new seal, slap the charger on and fire it up hoping within a week!

my12


iceageg

Sorry to hear about the complications man.  Those internals are not designed to be removed and replaced without some specialty equipment.  Just make sure you take your time and heat/cool/heat/cool the parts using something like a toaster oven and your freezer for full parts and a torch when you want just a localized area to expand.  Nice thing about the torch method is since the case is aluminum and the bearings are not the case will expand sooner.  So if you put the torch on the housing near a bearing it will often let go of its death grip on said bearing.  I am VERY interested to it all go back together and the result of the custom drain.  Are you going to utilize the secondary drain location also as we discussed before?
Quote from: VG33ERGazelle? on 04:50:38 PM / 26-Aug-11
I was afraid all the five gallon buckets of pain stacked four high were going to fall over

sideways_s12


Spoolinups13


sideways_s12


falkhen

#114
I only just found this thread, better late then never. I'm interested in taking out my IRS and converting to the Ford axle, I just didn't have a good picture of the mount points of the 4 link suspension. I also are in the works of building a V8  swap hence the need for a stronger axle...

cheers and good luck, thanks for the build thread.  :idea:



Spoolinups13

Whats up guys! much needed update..ive been super super busy since drift/race has started but I did manage to get the car done just in time. The first start went well she fired right up, I had some supercharger belt alignment issues and later a no boost issue which was just because my pulley was too big. Either way both were an easy fix..a shim behind the pulley and a reduction in size got me up to 5 psi. The air fuel ratios under boost are 11.5-12 and the transition into boost is smooth with the blow through mass air flow. First gear is useless, second gear spins till redline and third gear I can hit rev limiter in mid drift..the extra power is awesome! Ive brought the car to two drift events already and have been getting huge angle with the new front suspension setup, lock to lock is effortless with the new caster setting too. I only have one major thing to address and that's the supercharger belt. After constantly hitting rev limiter at high underhood temps the belt just shreds one rib off at a time. Im thinking it just needs to be tighter..also I killed my fuel pump with the FMU pushing it up to 100psi so ive recently installed a bosch 44 which is holding up well. Before bringing it out for the year I added a couple final touches to the car, I bought a Takata Drift 2 4 point harness and a Sparco 215 steering wheel which really changed the feel and steering input. Check out the pics from the last couple events and go to the video section were ill be posting a link to my bio as a drifter for Clubloose North!







my12

This is to awesome! Sick ride man! Congrats!!!

Modulus Two

glad to see that its up and kicking some ass!
Dat Exhaust!

iceageg

#118
I am VERY happy to hear that your bearing replacement was a success.  Did you go with just your single custom drain or did you run a T line up to a secondary drain higher on the case as a backup? Either way keep watching the seal around the input shaft  and the big O-ring for signs of leaking.  If it is building oil pressure in the blower case those will be your indicators.

there are a few ways you may be able to increase your belt life.  The first you already addressed is alignment.  Get it as strait as you can.  A long strait edge pressed against the face of the pulley is far more accurate than trying to line it up with your eyes.  As you noted making sure the belt is tightened properly makes a big difference too.  It is fairly easy to calculate using the strand deflection formula.  A little Bing-Fu and you will get the information you need.  They make fancy belt tension gauges but we just use a fish scale hooked to a graduated piece of bar stock.  Once you have the pounds/distance numbers calculated just hook the midpoint of the belt and tug (example: 1/8" of belt deflection requires a 10 pound pull).  If the distance/strength required is out of spec, adjust and try again (if you don't have a spring tensioner).  Keep in mind that belts actually stretch a lot, particularly in the first hour of use.  Far more than you think they would.  A belt that was properly tensioned at 12 pounds when you first put it on could easily be 8 pounds or less after your first run.  Spring tensioners will absorb this but if you are running a manually adjusted tensioner for the blower you will want to recheck the belt tension between runs if the belt is new.

There are a couple of other things you can try too.  You want to try to maximize the amount of wrap the belt has on each pulley to maximize the belt/pulley contact.  First identify which pulley (hopefully it is only one) that the slippage is occurring on.  Odds are it is the supercharger pulley but it could be something else.  The area around the pulley will start to build up a coating of belt dust and the pulley itself may start to show signs of rubber buildup in the groves.  Maximizing wrap around that pulley can make a huge difference.  Either moving an existing idler or having one at both ends of a long run can make all the difference.  If I remember right you are using the engine's stock tensioner and the kit you bought has an idler on the long run out to the supercharger pulley.  I mention this because it looks like a long run on the slack side of the supercharger pulley.  The longer the run the more the slack side will be able to "flap".  A spring tensioner on that slack side eliminates the belts ability to loosen itself momentarily, particularly during moments of on/off throttle modulation.

I have never tried two spring tensioners so you would be treading new ground if you add one while already using the factory one on the engine.  Companies like Gates make a staggering assortment of tensioners that can be purchased with various grooved, smooth and shouldered pulleys.  We have had both CarQuest and Advanced order them for us in the past.  Most of them are fairly cheap.  You could even just use one of their pulleys with the bearings pre-pressed as another stationary idler or manually adjustable tensioner.  If you decide to add a idler or tensioner keep this resource in mind.  It beats waiting for a machine shop to fabricate a new more expensive pulley that you still need to add bearings to.  It makes the option of running a separate belt a lot more realistic as well if you decide to go that route.

When you reduced the size of your pulley to increase boost you also likely reduced the length of belt you should be using.  If it is too long the spring tensioner may not be able to maintain the proper tension.  Make sure you have adjusted your belt length accordingly.  That may be the entire issue itself.

Hopefully something in that helps.  Keep up the awesome work and living the dream.  So much WIN!

<EDIT>
I found the earlier pulley picture that refreshed my memory.  Unless your supercharger pulley is tiny now you should have good wrap.  I'll leave all of my gibberish on the topic in the post for future reference though.
Quote from: VG33ERGazelle? on 04:50:38 PM / 26-Aug-11
I was afraid all the five gallon buckets of pain stacked four high were going to fall over