Author Topic: Adjustable control arm conversions by RT (Read 18109 times)

G-E · « **Reply #20 on:** 12:29:11 AM / 12-Jun-14 »

I need undercar pics of the area to see how much room there is to offset the arms, the upper surface of the arm would be able level with the upper edge of that backing plate you see...

I need to know if the arm is going to hit the body at compression (or any other interference issues), and devise the easiest instructions to do the modification... that way I can help anyone interested offer a welding service to end users without fab ability

I am also speaking a pro in auto-x (z31) who knows his stuff, he eagerly wants to try it, and he's the ideal person to go about testing all the various geometry changes and settings for me

First step is I need lotsa underbelly pics of the s12 around the subframe area, please anyone/everyone get me pics!

G-E · « **Reply #21 on:** 07:26:37 PM / 17-Jun-14 »

Lotsa interest, zero effort...

I don't think you guys want this badly enough $:\$

D-sport S12 · « **Reply #22 on:** 10:24:22 PM / 17-Jun-14 »

I won't be home till Thursday to get pictures. I said that on Facebook as well lol, cause I'm stoked on this. Would be nice to have some more grip + even tire wear for drifting

G-E · « **Reply #23 on:** 12:49:57 AM / 18-Jun-14 »

I'm having more backing plates made, going to be sending the first prototypes to a z31 tester probably end of next week

If any of you feel adventurous enough, I can let someone else be a dedicated s12 tester? Not much discount, but exclusivity and handjobs from engineers could be yours...

Mr Amber Shades · « **Reply #24 on:** 07:40:00 PM / 18-Jun-14 »

handjobs from engineers you say?.... lol couldn't resist

I'm stoked about this. Current lack of rear adjustment kills me

D-sport S12 · « **Reply #25 on:** 08:25:13 PM / 18-Jun-14 »

Quote from: G-E on 12:49:57 AM / 18-Jun-14

I'm having more backing plates made, going to be sending the first prototypes to a z31 tester probably end of next week

If any of you feel adventurous enough, I can let someone else be a dedicated s12 tester? Not much discount, but exclusivity and handjobs from engineers could be yours...

In for this, I'll drift stress test it with enough power to actually test it a little.... Around 300rwhp

DjayS12 · « **Reply #26 on:** 11:06:08 PM / 18-Jun-14 »

Totally interested, as I said i'm on a ship until the 22nd. As soon I'm off the boat i'll take these pictures if nobody have yet.

Also interested in testing it, we got a new track locally and I lapped the car with only coilovers and urethane bushing. I know I wanna go lower and get rid of the bushing binding. This kit is the best solution for now from what I believe!

G-E · « **Reply #27 on:** 05:40:18 PM / 22-Jun-14 »

How much camber are you guys trying to undo? I have 2 plates with studs installed in the maximum positive positions, although with the sliding plates you can go more negative from there...

I need some alternative rodends to arrive before I hand out the second tester kit, but expect a week or so for that...

seishuku · « **Reply #28 on:** 07:18:15 PM / 22-Jun-14 »

This much?

Probably a good 8 degrees.

G-E · « **Reply #29 on:** 04:12:45 AM / 23-Jun-14 »

Haha that doesn't look like 8 but definitely high...

Using simple math, my trailing arm kit would allow 4.1 degrees of tilt, but since the arm isn't trailing exactly straight back, realistically it's more like 3.5-3.8 degrees of correction

Anything above that would require a more expensive solution

pakii-afa · « **Reply #30 on:** 12:45:05 PM / 23-Jun-14 »

yea im already running like -5 degrees on stock everything lowered 2 inches. looks just like seishuku's car almost.

one thing that would be done is instead of welding the plate on square, weld it on a more positive angle for more adjustment.

G-E · « **Reply #31 on:** 12:42:03 AM / 24-Jun-14 »

This is true, but the plate itself is just about the exact height as the arms where they get cut... it's like that so you can use the top edge of the arm as a vertical guide, then you only need to measure the horizontal position and the cut line offset from the ends

I wanted installation to be as simple as possible

The biggest challenge with welding the bracket at angles, either forward/rearward tilt, or rotation, is you likely need to make up a jig to keep both sides consistent, something I wanted to avoid the need for...

DjayS12 · « **Reply #32 on:** 01:18:24 AM / 24-Jun-14 »

Ok I'll take your pictures tomorrow. I gave it a quick look and I think we will have to cut out the middle portion of the plate because the frame rail goes between the two arm legs if you go somewhat low (or hit a bump). The inside leg seem to have plenty of room to jack the arm tho!

pakii-afa · « **Reply #33 on:** 01:24:46 AM / 24-Jun-14 »

i understand that, but what if one was to cut a side, and since the arm is not boxed, bend the arm into trapezoid fashion, tac weld. mark the other side for cutting. cut, bend other side to match trapezoid. then weld in full. i feel as if ive over looked something like potentially "fouling/warping/binding" the arm itself by doing this. but its just a theory.

maybe just cut, weld the arm into a boxed form. then weld the camber plate onto the desired angle?
i tend to make things over complicated.

G-E · « **Reply #34 on:** 03:20:20 AM / 24-Jun-14 »

Not sure what you're describing exactly, but adding extra material that close to the pivots will affect unsprung weight by about 1/4 of what you actually add, therefore an extra kg of steel won't really make much difference...

I'm going to leave the gusseting and boxing to the installer, like my subframe swap kit, I'm trying to provide the components you can't just make from scrap metal with a grinder

I did expect the cross bracing might have to be cut (possibly the same for the z31 guys), and I may still be able to redesign the plate to clear, but I need to know what/where/how first

On the plus side, you won't need to relocate the brake hard line, and if you're careful cutting, you could even keep the the bracket that comes off the arm...

pakii-afa · « **Reply #35 on:** 03:57:56 PM / 24-Jun-14 »

yea i tend to over complicate many things, sorry about that lol

G-E · « **Reply #36 on:** 11:54:45 PM / 03-Jul-14 »

Ok I just have to get 2 spacers trimmed up and I have another set ready for testing by one adventurous s12 owner...

Price will be $360 shipped, and I will help walk you through the install, answer the million questions, offer advice, send love letters etc.

The other criterion is that you actually install it asap, I need to know if there's any tweaking or s12-specific trickery; first to verify that no changes need to be made, and secondly so I can work on some proper documentation/diagrams
Post Merge

Sold to lucky contestant #2...

Prolowtone · « **Reply #37 on:** 05:15:11 AM / 05-Jul-14 »

how much would need to be cut off of the rear arms. Im actually a lil bit stoked

Just noticed page two is the testing phase. I have all my photos on my desktop and have been away for almost a year and disappointingly noticing i dont have any upskirts of my 12s despite having a lift in my garage hahahaha.

G-E · « **Reply #38 on:** 10:24:58 PM / 05-Jul-14 »

Cut line is 4.5" or so from the very end of the arms, measuring from the center of the bore would just complicate things... BUT if you want longer arms, you could cut less, and if you wanted a wider track, you could weld the plates offset more, which would then need extra length

pakii-afa · « **Reply #39 on:** 01:34:33 AM / 06-Jul-14 »

wouldnt having a wider track via offset arm require custom axles?