84 S12 KA-T Drift Debauchery Extravaganza

iceageg · 03:22:56 PM / 11-Feb-15

Other than the obvious tools you will need lots of baggies to put parts/bolts/etc. in and mark them. Masking tape so you can label EVERYTHING you unplug. Expect to do/need some custom exhaust work. If I remember right a lot of folks here use hockey pucks for motor mounts. Since the KA will already be out I'd consider a rebuild kit to at least redo all of the seals and gaskets. Oh, and beer. Lots of beer. Not only can you drown your frustrations in it your friends will be more willing to come help if you have beer.

Modulus Two · 03:33:07 PM / 11-Feb-15

Sounds like I'm off to a good start on the beer part. I've got a friend who drifts an S13 that could probably help. I'm sure he'll be pissed that I'm taking his stock of "reserve engines" from the junk yards.

Hockey pucks, eh? I guess that'd work well as a rubber bushing.
Now to get a hold of the salvage yard to see if they have what I need.

Modulus Two · 10:27:26 PM / 12-Feb-15

I got around to doing a compression test tonight and I'm surprised to find that compression looks good.
I think all of them read around th 170-180 mark. The manual recommends 171 PSI
I'm a bit concerned about the spark plugs though.

4-1 left to right

1

2

3

4

Think these sparks could be an issue?

rednucleus · 12:43:07 AM / 13-Feb-15

lol are any of those the correct plug for that poor CA? Better take a good luck inside the dist cap to see condition of contacts and what rotor they decided to use!

Modulus Two · 09:56:14 AM / 13-Feb-15

Ya know, Red, I was thinking the same thing about the plugs. They're all DIFFERENT! Not one of them is the same F'n plug!
I'm debating how much work I'm going to actually put into getting this engine to run, because I plan on doing a KA swap as soon as I can get one sourced.

But fidgeting with this engine is making good mechanical troubleshooting practice.
Post Merge

I went to a salvage yard today. They had 2 240SXs in their inventory. Someone had already gotten to the engines and transmissions.
I found an engine for $400 that is about 110 miles away. I was hoping to find one closer for cheaper.

As a point of reference, how much should I be paying for everything?
I was hoping to do a swap for < $1000 USD.

rednucleus · 04:32:57 PM / 13-Feb-15

for your CA, just get a new set of the proper plugs - intake side only, don't really need to change the ones on the exhaust, and consider a new cap and rotor too. Maybe ex. mani gasket but you may run into a big pain playing with those bolts as they are commonly stripped. Rockauto has lots of choices usually some closeout specials too so should be able to get basics done for very little money and it may run fine after that.

Modulus Two · 05:59:43 PM / 15-Feb-15

It was warm enough to work in the garage today. A whole 24F degrees...

Anyway, I wasted more money at AutoZone today to pick up 2 sets of plugs. My OCD wouldn't allow me to have non-matching plugs again.

I got them all spaced exactly to .044, installed.

Changed oil and filter. I might have put a little more than 4 Qts in. I may have to drain a little because I got the car running for a little bit, but I saw this....

Oil spattered out of the exhaust. I'm unsure if it's because I over filled oil a little or if there's a bigger issue like bad rings or cracked block.

I think this time, I'm seriously done trying to make this engine work.
If anyone has a KA for sale at a reasonable price, PM me.

Basic · 07:22:46 PM / 15-Feb-15

I don't think with compression like you were having you have ring or cracked block issues - the compression test would have shown it. Maybe valve seals, but are you sure that's oil and not water mixed with unburnt fuel/nastiness? Usually a little overful won't do that.

Modulus Two · 07:35:32 PM / 15-Feb-15

I was thinking the same about having good compression. I wouldn't think that would be the issue.
Could be just water and soot blowing out.
So, if all that stuff is good, what might be other issues I should look into?

I was going to order the rotor and dist cap, but I don't want to waste money if the engine is getting swapped.
I didn't think it was going to take so much to get it going again. Maybe I was overly optimistic that this CA would run OK.

rednucleus · 11:58:49 PM / 15-Feb-15

how does it run with the new plugs vs the old ones?

Basic · 09:09:18 AM / 16-Feb-15

Having had a c20e for a while, i can say that a new cap and rotor made a big difference on mine back in the day.

Modulus Two · 10:32:24 AM / 16-Feb-15

@Rednucleus, with the new plugs in, it managed to run longer. I was actually able to throttle it up a little. Sounded like it was about to die at 2k RPM. I didn't try to rev any higher than that.

I'm teetering on the decision of getting a cap n rotor and cables. It's good a mechanical learning experience and I could have a 2nd car to drive while I'm working on getting the KA.

Also, even though I just put a new battery in it, the battery seems to drain stupid fast. Just trying to turn it over a few times, I'll see voltage drop from 12 to 10. After that, I have to hook it up to another car to jump it.
Could there be something else electrical going on, or do you think it's just the cold and lack of running?

rednucleus · 03:24:49 PM / 16-Feb-15

1. Check timing
2. Look at cap and rotor contacts (2 on rotor) - any corrosion replace them.
3. Sounds like you have something draining battery. Shouldn't be dead that quick.

Modulus Two · 05:04:15 PM / 16-Feb-15

On the battery drain issue, I have been detaching it and bringing it in the house when I'm done. Shouldn't be a cold sap.
Thanks for the advice again. I'll check it when it's a bit warmer.
It's currently about 15 F outside and not much warmer in the garage. It was like, 45 degrees yesterday. Man, I hate the mid-west weather.

IggyEGuana · 10:04:31 PM / 16-Feb-15

On the battery, don't worry. Just charge it if you can. Its been sitting on a shelf a long time and needs to be in a running car. Fire the car up and check voltage.

Modulus Two · 09:56:16 AM / 18-Feb-15

Also, by the time I finished writing this post, I got contacted by someone here in Indy who has a KA for me. I'm going to take a look here in an hour or so to check it out.
I might just have to say, fuck this CA. and start tearing it out tonight.

Post Merge

OK, Scrap everything up to this point in my thread. (unless you want to buy a CA20E or parts off of it)
I just bought that '96 KA24DE that I just mentioned this morning. $625, because they sold the oil pan off of it.
Total vehicle price this far: $1,425

Sorry for being daft about some of these things, but I'm pretty new to trying to be a mechanic. I'm a software developer by trade.

few questions that I couldn't find on the forum is: If I want to use my 5spd B trans, can I use the bell housing off of an AUTOMATIC 240SX to join it to the engine?
Will an Automatic ECU and wiring harness work with a manual?

I also need to research what suspension parts I can take off the 240. This was a complete car with body damage.
Any advice / recommendations will be well received.

Also, this place is pretty close to where I live...

I should go in sometime to see if they got anything good I can use.

pakii-afa · 01:54:12 PM / 18-Feb-15

you now own an s12, stop counting the money spent it will only hurt the mind lol.
its unfortunate that you had the oil comming out the exhaust, i did too. swapped in a ka i bought for 50 bucks and never had that problem lol

there is tons of info on this forum useful for ka swaps, i though itd be more complicated when i was done. just be patient.

Modulus Two · 02:30:05 PM / 18-Feb-15

Thanks for the confidence booster Pakii. About the money spent, I have no worries yet. I know it's going to keep costing me. I actually thought I was off to a good start.

Granted, I probably could have found an 80's Mustang ready to go at the $1500 price point. And more available parts and aftermarket... ;_;
BTW, my daily.

I'm still getting shit from friends for not sticking with american muscle.

Anyway the S12 is different. Not many people have the S12 from what I've seen and not many even know what it is.
I like the custom and unique factor. I get to make it mine.

Anyway, I'm still searching on the bellhousing and ECU issues. Advice pls.
Also, I don't know if the Salvage yard is willing to sell just the BellHousing. I think they're trying to get me to take the whole Trans.
If that's the case, I'll wait until I can find a good Manual for cheap.

Patience.

rednucleus · 03:48:20 PM / 18-Feb-15

Another CA bites the dust! Parts to consider saving that other members occasionally ask for are: starter, alternator, dizzy, intake mani, exhaust shield & mani if not cracked, flywheel if teeth in good shape. Good luck with your swap. BTW take a good look at your steering when the motor is out, it's a great time to change it if needed and new racks are readily available for about $100

Modulus Two · 10:47:01 AM / 21-Feb-15

What's that hanging on that crane?

KA!

I'm a bit pissed off at the salvage yard I got this from. They CHOPPED so much stuff in terms of cables and hoses. Guess I cant go back and ask for the wiring harness...

Now I need to find the correct bolts to hook the engine up to the engine mount to get the tear down started.