S12 rear bushing replacement

[deucekazoo]

Everything is now back together and the car feels great! Its very stiff and even when taking off I don't get that rear end drop.

So here is the pic of the diff bushing I made. It fit nicely and made a huge difference.




One thing I have to mention on the cradle bushings. On one of the post it said to cut down the top bushing because the lip is too wide. One thing I would recommend is to cut down both of them. I left 13mm on each bushing so it would evenly space the cradle. I also used the original metal spacer from the car. The one that comes with the kit is too long. So use the original metal sleeve and cut both bushings down and leave 13mm of material behind and you will be good. I also used the original metal washer. This is the one that has the rubber lip on it. I used a wire wheel to take the lip off. The bushing instructions mention to keep this washer.


Also from the kit you can use the 24mm sway bar bushings. The kit comes with 4 pair at different diameters.


I also used the sway bar end links but had to use the original bolt and spacer. The ones that come with the kit are too big diameter wise and the metal spacer is way off.


And here are my driveshaft bolt that I made. Cap screws M8x1.25 45mm long (12.9 hardness) gives you 17mm unthreaded shoulder. The flange thickness of the driveshaft and diff is 15mm. Used washers to make sure I have enough thread to hold. Cut down to size and used 10.9 hardness washers and nuts. 10.9 is equal to grade 8 hardness.

[snakezulu7]

Damn, that is clean. Could you link the post that said the brand and/or where you got them from? Also, the coils look pretty nice too!

[deucekazoo]

I am guessing you are asking about the driveshaft bolts?

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/1139592?searchmode=filterByInMyStore&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600039 Sockets"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600040 Socket Cap Screws"|~ ~|sattr01:^Metric$|~ ~|sattr06:^"Class 12.9"$|~ ~|sattr04:^"M8 - 1.25"$|~ ~|sattr05:^45mm$|~

I also found some on eBay that would work. I just did not want to wait for them to ship in so that is why I made my own.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-1969-78-Driveshaft-Propeller-Shaft-Bolt-Set-4-OEM-NEW-463-/322165166484?hash=item4b028a5194:g:IiAAAOxy3zNSlKZs&vxp=mtr

The older Zs have the M8 bolts. The new ones use M10.

I even found these, nice but just a little expensive.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-1200-Heavy-Duty-Propeller-Shaft-Bolts-For-NISSAN-240Z-510-240K-B110-Ute-/370573675105?hash=item5647e98a61:g:LtoAAOSwnDxUh9Mf&vxp=mtr

Thanks on the springs. Those are the stock ones. I just cleaned them up and Por-15 them. I like Por-15 because it is flexible and when it dries it liquefies to a nice finish.

[snakezulu7]

Very nice very nice.

[deucekazoo]

So redid the front struts and ball joints. It took me longer than it should have. I was sent the wrong ball joint in the same box and under the same part number as the other one. One fit perfectly and the other did not. It took me a while to figure out why it was not pressing into the C arm as easy as the other. Once it was mounted to the bracket that gets mounted to the strut, it would never bolt down. So ordered the correct ball joint and that one did not fit either. I guess the wrong one made the mounting hole in the C arm to big. I was lucky that Moog still sells a ball joint, C arm and bushing as one kit. I ordered two of them and replaced both sides. So new ball joints, steering rods and ends, new strut inserts and poly bushings. Everything was painted and should be good to go for another 100k miles.

Before:


After: