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Author Topic: Front Break Replacement - Duralast Calipers Are On...But Not The Rotors  (Read 3503 times)

Offline snakezulu7

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     Last weekend I went through the process of replacing the rear brakes and, although I underestimated the difficulty of dealing with that pesky emergency brake cable, I got it done in a very long, hot, sweaty fucking day. Praise gawad. After a half day at work I decided to take on the front brakes not really expecting to find that the nut holding the hub on was going to be so...weird. Question 1: What type of nut is that? Tis not in my FSM. Question 2: What tool or extension do I need to remove this so I can change the rotors? I haven't seen this information posted anywhere. Once I get the tool I need, I'll be able to replace my rotors and I can go through how that worked on this thread for those that are interested!

     Now that I'm done groveling, I'll get to the informational side of the thread: Part 1 - Duralast Caliper Replacement - What you need, What you need to do, Pro (laughter from the background) tips, Ass, Titties, Ass and Titties!

What you need-
  • Your new calipers
    The brackets for those calipers
    DOT 3 brake fluid
    New Pads
    10 mm open wrench
    Ratchet
    12 mm socket
    3/4 socket
    14 mm socket (in case your brackets aren't pre-installed)
    Hammer (in case your old calipers need encouragement to get the hell off the rotor)
    Aquarium tubing to go and water bottle
    Lighter to melt the hose to the bottle
    Wire hanger to hold the caliper x2

What to do-
1. Jack the car up under the frame, jack stands, leave the jack under for safety, don't leave anything under the wheels.
2. Take the wheels off and don't "oh fudge" the lugs...or dad's gonna kill Ralphie.
3. Because you're straight up replacing the whole calipers, don't bother separating the caliper from the housing. Using a 3/4 socket and some effort, break the bolts holding the caliper to the car.
4. Protip! With your wire hanger and big strong muscles, bend the support portion of the hanger into hooks to claw the caliper and hook it onto the coil so it's out of the way.
***ENSURE THE BLEEDER HOLE OF YOUR NEW CALIPER IS AT THE TOP***
5. If you're lucky and your calipers had the brackets installed skip to the part where we put the pads in. If no, pay attention. Bolt the new caliper to the car in the factory location with MINIMAL torque and grab your 14 mm socket to separate the piston housing from the bracket by removing the two outward facing bolts that mate them. Hang the piston housing the same way you did in step 4.
6. Unbolt the bracket from the car.
7. Using the factory caliper as a template, mimic the little metal bracket placement. If Duralast screwed you the way they screwed me by giving me those little metal brackets that were "close" to the right size, the next step will piss you off because you literally have to hold them on the whole time.
8. Insert the pads making sure the one with the metal thing goes in on the side where the bracket bolts to the car.
9. Now that you've done the most irritating part, GOOD JOB. If you're reusing the old rotors, spray them down with a solvent to remove any rust on the breaking surface if you like. Now, bolt the bracket back to the car making sure there's enough space between the pads but make sure you don't separate them too much. Torque the bolts down with your 3/4 socket.
10. Now, bolt the piston housing back to the bracket with your 14 mm socket. Torque the bolts and squeeze the brake with your hands to ensure the bolt went in correctly.
11. There is a green plug on the back of your newly installed caliper which you need to remove prior to your next step but DO NOT THROW THIS AWAY. After the next step you'll need to use this plug to go into the same hole on your old caliper. You may need to overfill the master cylinder with your brake fluid in case you might drop something.
12. With your 12 mm socket and quick hands, unbolt the brake line from your old caliper and be sure that you retain your washer as it WILL fall off.
13. Quickly align and bolt the line to your new caliper and plug the old caliper with the green plug mentioned above.
14. Make sure everything is torqued down and clear the wheel-well.
15. Repeat the above for the other side.
16. Grab your water bottle and either drill a hole in the cap or burn a hole in the side of the bottle the size of your aquarium hosing.
17. Protip! Run the hosing through your new hole and make sure there's plenty of slack in the bottom of the bottle and lightly melt the plastic of the bottle to the hose. Put enough brake fluid in the bottle to cover the end of the hose in the bottle. This will ensure that when you begin bleeding and pull your foot off the petal the hydraulic system doesn't suck air in through the hose.
By now, the caliper should be full of fluid so bleeding aught to be quick. Give your master cylinder another shot of brake fluid.
18. Connect the loose end of the hose to your bleeding hole. As I mentioned above, the bleeder should be at the top.
19. With your 10 mm wrench, crack the valve.
20. You may or may not get fluid immediately. If you do, pump it a bit anyway and close the valve. If you don't, pump the brakes a few times and check the hose/bottle for bubbles. Continue this and be sure to keep your master cylinder from running dry. If it dries up on you, you're gonna have a bad time. Continue this exercise until you don't see bubbles coming out.
21. Go to the other side and repeat step 20.
22. Remount the wheels, set the old girl down and torque the lugs with the car on the ground. Give your brakes a few pumps and your petal will firm up.
23. Once you're satisfied, check the master cylinder and brake fluid level. If it is acceptable, mark it with a paint stick of sharpie and cap it.

There it is! Unfortunately, I couldn't take pictures...rain was coming in and I kept getting shit in by eyes every time the wind would gust. Wamp wamp.

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1985 KA N/A 200SX

Offline JonB

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I don't know what nut out front that is. It just has this sheet metal thing on it to lock it like a crown nut. Pull the cotter, remove the sheetmetal lock thing, then use a big adjustable if you don't have a socket - that's what I do sometimes.

After you slide the hub/rotor off, remove the four bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Place the hub on the ground face up, and grab a hammer and pound the old rotor off. I'd think you could cover it from there.

Offline iceageg

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Thanks for the thorough right up!  After all the promises of ass and titties I don't see any though . . . sort of disappointed about that.
I was afraid all the five gallon buckets of pain stacked four high were going to fall over

Offline snakezulu7

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JonB: I had to read that a few times becaus I'm half awake. I'll give this a shot tomorrow depending on how soon I can get off work. Thanks, man!

iceageg: Unfortunately, we can't post porno shit on here. :\
1985 KA N/A 200SX

Offline rednucleus

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JonB: I had to read that a few times becaus I'm half awake. I'll give this a shot tomorrow depending on how soon I can get off work. Thanks, man!

iceageg: Unfortunately, we can't post porno shit on here. :\
Ass and titties are not porno, they are the artistic human body - get to work posting


Offline rednucleus

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LOL thanks for that, good way to end the day!

Offline snakezulu7

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FRONT ROTOR CHANGE TIME!

What you need-
New front rotors
Wire hanger (bend it into a double claw to hold the caliper up)
3/4 socket
14 mm socket
27 mm socket
Hammer (seriously, a hammer)
WD40
Pliers
Shop rag

What to do-
1. Jack up the car, remove the wheel, and don't "oh fudge" the lug nuts!
2. Knock or pry off the bearing cap and unbend the cotter pin. Try to get it as straight as possible.

3. Grab the back of the pin with your pliers and lightly tap the other side of it until it comes out. The metal crown thing will just come right off to reveal.......A NUT!!!

4. The nut shouldn't be on tight, but use your 27 mm socket and unscrew that mamajama until it comes off.

*******Remove the caliper entirely with you 3/4 socket and hang it from the coil with your handy wire hanger claw*******
5. The bearing should just come right off, but you may need to wiggle the rotor assembly.

6. Then the rotor just comes off!

7. Protip! Lay your wheel down flat with the outside of the wheel facing up and put the rotor assembly with the lugs facing down and lined up with the wheel holes. Stand on the backside of the rotor and the tire with both feet and don't forget to hit all 4 bolts with WD40.

8. Grab your 14 mm socket and a hammer because those bolts are not going to come out easy. Hit the end of that ratchet with your hammer for all 4 bolts.

9. Now for the hardest damn part...flip the assembly over and put it on the cardboard from the box your new rotors came in so you don't scar the hub. Use liberal amounts of WD40 on all contact surfaces between the 2 components and beat the fuck out of the rotor with your hammer until they separate.

10. Now you can put the new rotor in place of the old one!!!

11. Line up the bolt holes and hand tighten those 4 bolts you removed earlier.

12. Using the same approach that we took to get those bolts off by putting the assembly face down into the wheel, tighten them back.

13. Put the assembly back on and reinsert the bearing. Be sure to align the retention notches.


14. Push the whole thing back all the way and start the nut by hand.

15. With your 27 mm socket, tighten the nut but don't put a whole lot of torque on it.

16. Re-cover the nut with the crown and align the cotter pin.

17. Tap the pin through with your hammer and bend the legs around the crown with your pliers.


18. Tap the cap back on lightly with your hammer.

19. Reinstall the caliper


20. Wash, rinse, repeat.
21. Take a step back and admire your work!


Now enjoy some cold beverages! I un-fucked the post, so the images should appear.
« Last Edit: 10:59:41 AM / 12-Jul-16 by snakezulu7 »
1985 KA N/A 200SX

Offline sideways_s12

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Why didn't you go with after market rotors?

Offline S12_Lifer

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I was not able to see if you replaced the inner and outer bearings as well as the grease seal since you had the hub off.  Great pictures of your work!

Offline snakezulu7

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Sideways: You're probably going to post links to drilled/slotted rotors, but I couldn't find any for the life of me...I looked for weeks and couldn't find any, so I went with the vented rotors from Duralast because they performed so well in high stress moments on my '05 RAM all those years ago. Online, there were eco applications and there were daily applications. Wamp wamp.

Lifer: I did nooot.....do those things...
http://cdn2.crushable.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Zac-Efron-wearing-suit-on-Conan-awkward-face-GIF.gif
1985 KA N/A 200SX

Offline sideways_s12

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Ahh ok. Whatever works. I'm sure you could of gotten away with 240sx aftermarket rotors...

Offline snakezulu7

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I think these rotors will perform as I need them, but what year 240SX rotors should I look into if I need something a bit more extreme?
1985 KA N/A 200SX

Offline S12_Lifer

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The rotors you have on now should be fine, especially as a daily driver.  Here are some upgrades that Sideways was referring to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291666019940?item=291666019940&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true

Offline sideways_s12

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Thanks lifer!