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Author Topic: Solid steering rack bushing replacement  (Read 983 times)

Offline Modulus Two

Solid steering rack bushing replacement
« on: 01:46:04 PM / 20-Jul-17 »
This is my quick write up on replacing the steering rack bushings on my 1984 S12 Hatch.  This was a simple job and should be doable in about an hour or 2, depending on preparation and available tools.
It was originally a CA20E, swapped to a KA24DE-T with the S13 transmission. Currently there is no exhaust connected to the turbo dump. The only reason I mention the engine/trans swap, is there may be a difference in clearance for your hands to do work and shuffle the rack around a little when placing in the new bushings.

I just ordered a refurbished steering rack from rock auto since mine was leaking from all orifices. I installed the new rack but the S13 bushings I was using had way too much play. So incomes the solid delrin bushings.

I already had all my suspension pulled off (not necessary for this job) because I had my knuckles cut and LCAs extended.

Start by removing the 2 bolts on each rack strap. These were easiest to handle with a swivel and ratcheting 15mm wrench. (my bolts were replaced. unsure if this is OEM bolt head size)

Continue to remove the straps.
Remove the rubber/polly bushings. These may require cutting to get them out. If you have the tie rods removed from the knuckles, the rack should be able to move around a bit making it easier.

With the strap and bushings out, clean the rack, straps, and rack mount liberally with carb cleaner. Having grease, oil and dirt in these increase the chance of the rack sliding around later. We want to have a clean and tight fitment.

Now, to prepare the driver side mount.
Using silicone gasket/sealant, place a bead down the center of both sides of the driver side bushing (tear drop shape)

Immediately put the 2 pieces on the driver side of the rack.
Proceed to put the strap on the bushing and insert the bolts, alternating front and back bolt bit by bit, by hand until it can't go farther.  There should be close to  3/8" to 1/2"  gap at this point.

Continue to the passenger side. Steps will be similar. Apply a silicon bead to the center of the passenger side bushings. I inserted the bottom half of the bushing first. This piece is to sit parallel with the mounting strap.
The top half gave me difficulty since there was a hard line that runs right over the top of it.
I put the strap on the top bushing, slid the strap and bushing under the hard line, then slid it sideways into the mount position, lining up the top and bottom bushings.

Yes, I know the crossmember and the rest of the car are rusting.

Bolting operations go the same way. Bit by bit on the front then back, alternating, until you can't turn by hand any more.

Once at this point, go back to the driver's side (YES do the driver's side first!) and tighten the bolt all the way down. Again, alternating at about 2 turns on each bolt, until tight and secure. Do the same process to the passenger's side.

Be sure to keep the wheels off the ground and don't play with the steering for the next 24 hours, to allow the silicone to cure completely.
And there you have it! A solid steering rack.

I have since put on all the modded steering gear to go for mad angle.
1" extended S13 LCAs, cut S13 knuckles, '03 Maxima inner & outer tie rods ( too long, need cut ), and 7mm rack spacers.

I can't wait to get out and test it!

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