About to begin my front suspension refurb

[cls12vg30]

My SE's been back on the road for almost six months now.  I've really only driven it to meets, but that's more than enough to know the handling is hosed, which isn't surprising.

Back in the day when I had my Canuck springs and MMR poly subframe bushings installed, the goofballs at the shop I used threw Gabriel struts on it, claiming the Konis I had given them wouldn't fit.  So yeah.

Anyway, I've been slowly building up parts for the front suspension/steering since the fall.  So far I've got:

1991 MR2 KYB Excel Strut cartridges
TRW Ball joints
TRW Tie Rod Ends
Moog Lower Control Arm Bushings
Experimental Engineering T/C Kit to replace tension rod forward bushings
Beck/Arnley Tie Rod / Steering Boots
Energy Suspension Poly Power Steering Rack bushings
Moog Polyurethane Stabilizer Bar Links
Moog Strut Bellows
Beck/Arnley Stablizer Bar Bushings


After the car sat for the better part of a decade I want to replace pretty much every bushing.  Did I forget any?  Any special tools I should look into (besides the spring compressors, obviously)?

Note that this is not a drift or race car, it's just a driver to enjoy and preserve.  I may try out some AutoX in the future, we'll see.

[SC S12]

I don't know if you started this, but Courtesy Nissan Still has the OEM bellows and bump stops for 280zx's and they are much better than the hard plastic bellows that most universal fit replacements are made of like moog. I think you need to cut about 1.5" off the stock bump stops to work well with lowering springs. I did not, and I slam into them pretty frequently ( but it at least prevents chassis slap).

New Shock Top Hats! The rubber bushings on the ones you have now are probably starting to tear. I Think they are about 25 bucks per side.

Instead of the EE TC kit, I would honestly recommend the TC kit from Techno Toy with new arms/ spherical bearings, and adjustability to help keep your caster in check ( and keep the wheel centered in the arch) when on the CM springs. I had a lot of scrub on the rear liner running the stock TC rods after lowering. They Now fit correctly after I had to send them feedback 3x on 3 sets. They also are now grey (my request that was originally denied) instead of Racer Red.

If you are still on the CM springs : get the Techo Toy RCA's. It will almost eliminate the bumpsteer that comes with the 3" drop or so that comes with CM springs.

If you are basically taking the entire front end apart : Id also just get new bearings and rotors, since you are probably going to take all that off anyway. Rotors on rock auto were only like 7 bucks each, and bearings+ seals totaled only around 12 bucks per side.

I had some weird issues with massive squeaking with poly rack bushes, and ended up replacing them with experimental engineering's Delrin ones. You will probably have to sand them a little, and then hammer them in, but they are not budging after that.

I also really like Moogs replacement stabilizer bar bushings that are made of a domed ( dolly parton esque) poly. They are cheap and come with all new hardware, and I feel like they last longer than the OE /skateboard truck bushing style. I only use the OE style on the back since you cant really get a kit with new hardware anymore (generic Pro-Thane ones from Autozone)