RB20det

[iB6uB9]

i was wondering if anyone has heard/know/seen anyone who has done this conversion, i am in the finishing stages of the conversion and was curious how other peoples efforts have gone.

[henge]

as far as i know you\'d be the first (atleast in Club-S12) to have a RB series engine in a S12.. so far the swaps i\'ve heard of are KA24DE, CA18DET, SR20DET, CA20ET (custom engine by Alex), and finally, my favorite, VG30DETT

i\'d love to see some pics of the progress you\'ve made!

please keep us posted

[YellowPreludeR]

someday the beginning letters of my engine will be RB and the ending letters and numbers will be 26DETT.    :lick:  I too wanna see pictures.

[Nebuchernezzer]

Should fit pretty well, prolly have to run thermos instead of engine fan though.  What i\'d like to see is a 1JZGTE in a gazu, i considered using a spare stripped shell with a 1J as a drag car but we ended up putting a CA18DET in it.
Go the RB20, cheap power

[iB6uB9]

i have some pics but they are much too large have to resize them

i have also added JIC coilovers, r32gts brakes, powersteering, kept a/c, hybrid fmic etc etc

[RPSport-John]

what did you use for the mounts, we used the mckinney kit to fit the rb25 into the s12. have fun with the rb20, it\'s only a little nose heavy.

oh yeah, what did you do in the back with the jic\'s?

John
[url]www.rpsport.net[/a]

[iB6uB9]

nose heavy makes it better for drift, that is the purpose of it
havnt done anything with the rear suspension yet
what do u suggest, also need LSD urgently

[iB6uB9]

as for the mounts i am using a crossmemeber that we refabricated, no use of mckinney kits etc

[RPSport-John]

shoot me some pics, if at all possible. We\'ve worked with 3 different configureations mounting the engine, id like to get a look at what you did.  You did nothing to mount the JIC\'s in the rear?

Please send pics to

[a href=\'mailto:John@rpsport.net\']John@rpsport.net[/a]

Thanks
John

[iB6uB9]

what i meant is that i havnt done anything with the rears yet, still looking at my options, just have the JIC at the front, any suggestions for the rear.
where would the best place to find some type of LSD for my 85 IRS hatch
ps. what other mounting configurations have you used.

[Joel07]

Nismo sells LSD\'s, but I think if you haven\'t already, you might want to swap in the R200 diff...

[RPSport-John]

probably the 180sx lsd would be best, based on the weight of the vehicle plus the rb20 (300hp top) the higher gearing in the dif is gonna do alot for you. Plus the it is a very beefy lsd.  Use a z31 mounting plate on the 180sx dif to mount it, adn get the 180sx halfshafts, and s12 halfshafts fabbed together at a driveshaft shop.


John

[Mr XXX]

Hey Guys, I am looking at this conversion. There are a number of S13s in New Zealand running RB\'s and they run really well in our Drift series. As far as I know there is another RB s12 in NZ. I would be very very intrested in pics, and anything you can across as being really tuff to work out. iB6uB9, i see you are running power steering. Was your s12 fitted with power steering from factory, or have you custom mounted this set up? I would be keen to get info on this as well. Did either of you moddify the firewall? as far as I can tell it should fit without. someone told me that they heard of someone running A Toyota AW-11 radiator, as these are not very tall, and fit in the front of the radiator surrond....

Any pictures of mounts or anything at all will be very very helpful. Thanks please send to [a href=\'mailto:ainsworth@xtra.co.nz\']ainsworth@xtra.co.nz[/a]

RB\'s have got to be the most cheapest versitile engine ever. AS for the diff, My s12 had a solid axel type diff, so I am currently setting up a toyota Hilux LSD diff, and also converting it Disc brake. Should be good.

Allan

[rob101]

a front heavy car is good for drifting?....... i am sorry but that doesn\'t make sense wouldn\'t the car understeer more? instead of being more neutral? don\'t get me wrong i am not having a go at you or anything i was just wondering how that could help drifting?

[Mr XXX]

Well, I guess the theory is if there is more weight at the front, then there is less weight in the rear, making traction less. Alothough understeer will most likly be a factor, with a good suspention set up you should be able to work around it pretty easy. Its a bit like compering a S13 and S14. The 14 is a lot easier to loss traction than the s13. The s13 is prone to understeer from what I have read and seen.

Mr XXX

[Mr XXX]

Oh, also guys, some one told me that to do the s13 to RB swap, a cerifro cross member is used, which bolts straight in. So on the theory, doe sanyone know the diffrence between  S13 and S12 cross member geography?

[Jsvob03]

as far as i know you\'d be the first (atleast in Club-S12) to have a RB series engine in a S12.. so far the swaps i\'ve heard of are KA24DE, CA18DET, SR20DET, CA20ET (custom engine by Alex), and finally, my favorite, VG30DETT

I\'ll just make my own Engine....VQ33DERTTi .... should push a few HP..but...i dont see it as possible, cause it would prob cost upwards of $15k...at that rate..just get an RB series, and turn the Turbo WAYYYYYY up! lol..just a thought

[Mr.200]

to \"drift\" all 4 tires have to be sliding. Anything else is a power slide.

You basically want to understeer to keep the front end of the car pointing towards the exit of the turn through the entire movement.

Remember, the whole \"idea\" of drifting is to be able to slide a corner at a faster rate than you could apex the turn. If you come into a turn, slow down to take it, then just light up the tires under power on the exit - this is not a drift. To take a corner faster than the car can apex, you have to slide the front. With the front tires gripping, you\'re taking the wrong approach. Doing it this way, you have a pivot point. Applying power will make you rotate on that point - ie oversteer. This is where moderation comes into play. If you have severe understeer, the car will plow straight, which is bad. Moderate understeer, the car will half turn, then start to slip. You then use oversteer to keep the back end pushing you in the direction you want to go. When the understeer goes away, if you\'ve done everything right, the car will end up pointing towards the exit, and you power out. If you\'re trying to do it by just jerking the wheel to keep the front end where you want it, you\'ll invite counter rotation. Basically if you keep pushing the car in this state, you\'ll oversteer into a complete 360. You have to keep the momentum, or inertia in a constant arc. By going back and forth to correct, you\'re unloading and loading opposite tires on the back end.

When I say \"understeer first, then power\" I don\'t mean it\'s a 2 step process. You don\'t get the car to plow, then apply power. It\'s a smooth transition.

You angle the car properly coming in on the approach. As it starts to understeer and the front end loses its grip, you have to steer with the throttle.

It\'s hard to explain in words. Play with a Hot Wheels car, you might get an idea there.

[Joel07]

:burnout:

Alright, I think I get it now...  

Sometimes it just takes me a while to understand stuff...   :bomb:

[iB6uB9]

i aggree with mr.200, regardless of what may be popular belief i have driven s13\'s with their original engines and now with rb\'s and i find that the car is much better to drift with the extra weight up the front end