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Author Topic: Remote mount turbo V6 project  (Read 142528 times)

Offline vg30e_x2_200sx

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Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #40 on: 06:03:25 AM / 01-May-05 »
When I post pics here I use my yahoo geocities site. I post the pics there and then do a copy and paste the get them here. Works like a charm, just can\'t be huge pics.

Randy

San Jose, California U.S.A.

Offline Joel07

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Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #41 on: 06:27:28 AM / 01-May-05 »
Awesome!  Glad to hear it\'s running!  Looking forward to some more driving impressions, and then maybe some dragstrip times!!  ;)  So is the flex pipe leaking?  I\'m guessing not if you\'re getting any boost at all...


Quote
I still dont get how it works, wheres your intercooler? and return to throttle etc  is it just me that thinks this is weird? good job tho - its definatly interesting


Yeah, we actually had a fairly in-depth conversation (or argument? :mrgreen: ) about the setup before the big board crash.  In theory, there\'s no need for an intercooler, because the length of pipe leading from the turbo all the way back up to the front of the car and to the TB will act like one.

I too, have thought that these setups are weird, but there\'s a company (STS) that sells setups like this for late model cars and trucks (mostly large cubic inch V8\'s though).  That\'s where the idea came from IIRC...

Offline mc

Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #42 on: 09:22:15 AM / 01-May-05 »
The flexpipe seems fine....its a marine grade stainless steel type..I am only using regular hose clamps on the end\'s of the pipe[three in a row] and they seem to be holding what little boost it has made....the return pipe to the t/b never gets that warm so I really dont think a intercooler is necessary at this time.....The spooling sound is priceless.

Offline Crowbar60

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« Reply #43 on: 01:01:01 PM / 01-May-05 »
Is the wastegate adjustable?  Also, what kind of BOV are you using?

Offline mc

Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #44 on: 04:13:42 PM / 01-May-05 »
...its a stock internal T3 wastegate and no BOV yet....i am looking into a eclipse bov for now[cheap/reliable] and than a manual boost valve...took it out for a drive and was able to hit 5 lbs boost with this guage....it feels good.

Offline Blaze420

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« Reply #45 on: 12:21:58 AM / 03-May-05 »
I cant believe someone actually did it... hows the increase in performance? After everything said and done what was the total cost of the project.

Offline Crowbar60

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« Reply #46 on: 11:53:34 AM / 03-May-05 »
If you are lucky enough to get a ball bearing type turbo, you could save even more on a project like this.  A ball bearing turbo would not need the expensive electric pump that mc bought.  It could use a stand alone type system built around a diesal fuel pump and use a lighter lubricant like jet engines use.

Offline Joel07

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« Reply #47 on: 12:04:10 PM / 03-May-05 »
Yeah, but most ball bearing turbos would offset the cost of that pump quite a bit...  ;)

Offline Crowbar60

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« Reply #48 on: 12:36:46 PM / 03-May-05 »
Well, If you go to \'pick-em-apart\' type junkyards, you can get pretty lucky.  I have found everything from superchargers to CD collections to weapons to expensive electronic diagnostic eqpt (which I just walked out with and claimed it was my own tools).

Offline mc

Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #49 on: 03:54:14 PM / 03-May-05 »
It killed me to spend 180 bucks for that pump...damn car only cost 350!!!anyway, I\'m happy with the results....i spent today taking the turbo back off and installing a better inlet flange as well as repositioning the turbo so it sits up higher...removed the muffler\'s heat shield and you gain alot more room...it allowed me to tilt the turbo more so the oil outlet is facing further downward[better drainage]....it looks better back there now[not so obvious that a turbo is hanging off the ass]...i might follow Crowbar\'s suggestion and downsize the inlet pipe to 2\" from the 2.5\".....and i need to pick up a cheap bov.

Offline Cavi Mike

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« Reply #50 on: 04:11:38 PM / 03-May-05 »
I started a post like an hour ago, but it timed out and I lost everything I typed and I got REALLY ****ING PISSED, but I\'ll sum it up quick without quotes and I\'ll give you my quick advice;

Intercoolers are NOT necessary

MC, when, I emphasise when you run a hard pipe from the turbo, use 2 inch pipe. Less lag, less pressure loss.
http://www.myspace.com/cavimike

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All Cars Would Be Yellow If Not for the Matchy-Matchy Laws
Teacher: So, as you can see, this car in the picture reduces air resistance and can accelerate faster.
Student #1, chuckling: Yeah, and plus, it's yellow, so that makes it faster, too.
Teacher, laughing: Haha, yeah, very true.
Student #2: Wait, really?

--Physics class, St. Ann's School

Overheard by: Mike N
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Offline Crowbar60

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« Reply #51 on: 06:21:03 PM / 03-May-05 »
In the \'lost\' thread, I had a link to another project car (not STS but someone like mc) and its actually best to go with a smallish exhaust (2\"-2 1/8\") and a slightly larger output pipe (2.25-2.36\").  Over the distance from cat to turbo, it makes a difference in overall volume/velocity of the exhaust gases.  And the exhaust gases are running the turbo.  Decrease the exhaust pipe, get better response.  It is probably a good idea to go stainless for the exhaust pipe.

I never for a second doubted that this would work.  As long as you do not go ape-sized on the turbo, and keep the pipes small, you will get performance.  I bet even better mileage.  I would not back the timing back that much.  Somewhere between 15-20 degrees would be about right.

I have BOV and other turbo parts.

Offline vg30e_x2_200sx

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« Reply #52 on: 06:44:20 PM / 03-May-05 »
What is your total outlay for parts at this time?

Randy

San Jose, California U.S.A.

Offline mc

Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #53 on: 07:31:35 PM / 03-May-05 »
T3 turbo with oil lines/fittings/ tb inlet pipe 100.00.....Mocal pump 180.00.....stainless steel flexpipe 25 ft 50.00....3/16\" brake line 25 ft roll/fittings  25.00...12/14 guage wire 10.00...clamps/hangers/brackets 15.00....shielded wire 5.00....hi pressure 3/8\" return hose 5.00....more or less this is everything.....i have enough extra to do another car.

Offline mc

Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #54 on: 08:30:58 PM / 03-May-05 »
Quote
In the \'lost\' thread, I had a link to another project car (not STS but someone like mc) and its actually best to go with a smallish exhaust (2\\\"-2 1/8\\\") and a slightly larger output pipe (2.25-2.36\\\").  Over the distance from cat to turbo, it makes a difference in overall volume/velocity of the exhaust gases.  And the exhaust gases are running the turbo.  Decrease the exhaust pipe, get better response.  It is probably a good idea to go stainless for the exhaust pipe.

I never for a second doubted that this would work.  As long as you do not go ape-sized on the turbo, and keep the pipes small, you will get performance.  I bet even better mileage.  I would not back the timing back that much.  Somewhere between 15-20 degrees would be about right.

I have BOV and other turbo parts.
Crowbar, i set at 10* figuring thats what the 88-89 turbo cars used....i think they had similar higher compression than the earlier turbo cars but used a t25 instead of a t3....i\'ll bump it up to 20 and see how it responds....i\'m using a 86 300z n/a ecu/afm which is a little richer so it should help out more now. I have enough leftover 2\" pipe to replace the 2.5\" to try and see if it will get a better response.If you have a BOV mounted on a 2\" pipe, i am interested.

Offline Crowbar60

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« Reply #55 on: 11:19:50 AM / 04-May-05 »
I am beginning to wonder if a BOV is even needed.  Mainly because of the extremely large volume that is being pressurized.

Offline bartc_j

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Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #56 on: 11:26:57 AM / 04-May-05 »
Quote
I am beginning to wonder if a BOV is even needed.  Mainly because of the extremely large volume that is being pressurized.


the larger the volume the more a bov is needed if you want to reduce lag between shifts and damage to the turbo
Bart
 '86 1.8L Turbo

Offline Crowbar60

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« Reply #57 on: 04:25:23 PM / 04-May-05 »
The basic STS kit does not include a BOV

Offline mc

Remote mount turbo project
« Reply #58 on: 08:12:22 AM / 05-May-05 »
I was reading in the Chilton book on the 81/82 280zx turbo cars use a device called VCV[vacuum control valve] or deceleration control system.Seems this would be a easy way to add cheap bov benefits....it threads into the 280zx intake but I would install before the t/b....its similar in size to a pcv....any thoughts???..........i up\'d the initial timing to 15* and it feels great and smoothedout the idle to rock steady....pulls 25hg/vacuum at 850rpm.

Offline Cavi Mike

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« Reply #59 on: 09:25:39 AM / 05-May-05 »
Quote
the larger the volume the more a bov is needed if you want to reduce lag between shifts and damage to the turbo

That doesn\'t make sense. The more area to pressurize, the longer it takes to pressurize it, therefore the pressure build-up won\'t be as violent. And about lag, if the turbo is still building up pressure, it\'s gonna release all of it directly into the intake as soon as you hit the gas. Atmospheric blow off valves aren\'t good for performance in the first place, recirculatory bypass valves are.

About the STS, is it a draw-through system?
http://www.myspace.com/cavimike

------------------------
All Cars Would Be Yellow If Not for the Matchy-Matchy Laws
Teacher: So, as you can see, this car in the picture reduces air resistance and can accelerate faster.
Student #1, chuckling: Yeah, and plus, it's yellow, so that makes it faster, too.
Teacher, laughing: Haha, yeah, very true.
Student #2: Wait, really?

--Physics class, St. Ann's School

Overheard by: Mike N
------------------------